IC40 Green status light shutting off after about 3-5 minutes

ZEvans12

Member
Apr 29, 2021
5
Bradenton, FL
Hi All,

I recently moved to Florida into a house that has a saltwater pool. This is my first pool ever, so I'm still learning the ropes. Everything went smoothly for the first 2 weeks, but the kids complained that the pool was too cold, so we had a pool heater put in. About a week or so after that I noticed that the pool was turning green on the bottom. The guy at the local shop just chalked it up to us using it all the time and sent me home with a few gallons of chlorine to clear it up.

Fast forward a week, same issue. Go back into the pool store and they tell me my Intellichlor IC40 isn't producing any chlorine. Have someone come out and he tells me that the status light isn't working so I have to buy a new one. I start trying to mess with things on my own based on reading this forum and the cell looks like it shows it has zero life life when I hold more for 3 seconds. However I notice that when I switch my Sanitizer output from 2% to 4% or 6%, the cell status light turns green and stays on for a minute. I chalk it up to the cell just being old.

Fast forward to today. I bought a new IC40 off eBay and installed it myself. Hook everything up, it turns on and runs and all the lights turn green. I go out about 30 minutes later and the cell status light is off again. I talk with one of me neighbors and he tells me to look at the date on the back of my old IC40 to see how old it is, and it's from 2019. So now I'm thinking that my old cell wasn't the problem.

Any idea why my cell status light keeps going off? This cell does the same thing of it I change it from 2%-6% then the cell status light turns on for a few minutes and then shuts off, exactly like my old one. If I do the 100% output, the cell lights stays on and works all the time.
 

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The ICXX series runs on a 300 second cycle. So if you have the cell set to 40% generation, the Cell will generate for 120 seconds and be off for 180 seconds. The Cell light will be OFF when not generating. At 100%, the cell light will stay on all the time.

I suspect your algae is due to too low of FC and/or too high of CYA. See Recommended Levels

 
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So are you saying if I keep watching the cell light it should come back on again after 180 seconds off?
If the cell is set for 40% generation. Do you have the manual for the SWCG?
 

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Z,

Like about 70% of all "reported" cell failures, the cell is fine and it is just a lack of understanding how a salt system really works. :scratch:

Your pool guys have no clue what they are doing, when it comes to troubleshooting a salt system.. I suggest that you dump them and let us help you get your pool up and running.

If you set your output percentage to 50%, the cell light will be on for about 2.5 minutes and off for about 2.5 minutes.

If the cell light is on, then the cell is generating chlorine. But.. once you have algae, the cell cannot make chlorine faster than the algae can grow.. So you need to kill all the algae first. We can show you how to do that..

Tell us what size your pool is in gallons, and how long you normally run the pump each day.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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My pool is about 10,000 gallons. I have the pump set to run from 10 AM - 7:30 PM currently.

I've mostly gotten the algae taken care of, but the last two times I've taken my water in to get tested they said my chlorine level is at 0, which is why I thought it was my cell.

Thanks for all the help and yes mknauss, I do have the manual. I got to the part about the status light indicators and what they mean, but not much beyond that.
 
If you want to really follow TFPC, you need your own proper test kit. No pool store testing is accurate or reliable enough to manage your pool water chemistry. See Test Kits Compared
 
Up to you on switching it out. You have a two year warranty on the new one and the old one no warranty. So I would use the new one first. Keep the other one as a backup. Stored in a dry place it should be fine.
 
I've mostly gotten the algae taken care of, but the last two times I've taken my water in to get tested they said my chlorine level is at 0,

Z,

You can't "mostly" get rid of algae.. Kind of like saying you are just a little pregnant... :mrgreen:

You either have algae or your don't. Just because you have temporarily gotten rid of the green does not mean you have killed all the algae.

We have a test, called the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT, which will tell you if you still have algae or not... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

You should take a read through our Pool School and see what we are all about.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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The ICXX series runs on a 300 second cycle. So if you have the cell set to 40% generation, the Cell will generate for 120 seconds and be off for 180 seconds. The Cell light will be OFF when not generating. At 100%, the cell light will stay on all the time.

I suspect your algae is due to too low of FC and/or too high of CYA. See Recommended Levels

This is GOOD to know! I observed a similar issue and got concerned.
After reading this information I cranked my IC-60 to 100% and the cell light popped right on. Back to 20% now as we're still pretty chilly.
My IC-60 is only 9 months old.
 
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