High CYA / Can see algae along edges

kas106

Member
Jun 15, 2024
8
Dallas, TX
Pool Size
15188
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We lost our pool guy & I decided to try this on my own, but things are not off to a good start.

The water is overall clear, but slightly cloudy, and I've been battling algae creeping in along the edges of the ledges & steps.

I have a test kit & just used it for the 1st time, so bear in mind my numbers mayyyy not be 100% accurate. BUT they're not too far off from the pool store test I'd been relying on prior to today, so maybe that's a good sign? Haha

PH: over 8.2
Chlorine: basically none (palest of pale pink)
FC: 2.5
CC: 1
TC: 3.5
CH: 300ppm
TA: 100-110
CYA: over 90 - if eyeballing the tube counts, 110?

From what I've read, I feel sure y'all are gonna say to drain some water & I've accepted this will be a painful water bill.

Should I add more liquid chlorine, too? Do nothing until the CYA is within the ideal range?

😭
 
No problem...you will need to drain some water, but let's get a better idea of how much. Do the 50% diluted test...
  • If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
    • Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
    • Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
    • Shake briefly to mix.
    • Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
    • Continue the test normally, but multiply the final result by two.
You'll need to complete the SLAM Process. The FC level you need to maintain depends on the CYA level at the time you start the process (FC/CYA Levels).

How do you plan to chlorinate the pool. SWG pools can maintain higher CYA levels?

How are you testing your water? Hopefully you have the larger sized FAS/DPD reagents found in the kits from TFtestkits.net.

Have you priced out the water refill? In my area, I can refill my pool for about $60 in water costs. Water is sold by the a unit which is 748 gallons. For your pool that's about 20 units. Check your water rates for a better estimate.
 
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Sorry, I added all the pool details to my signature before posting, but must have done something wrong since it didn't show up, so here goes:

• 15K gal, plaster, Pentair IntelliFlo VS/SVRS pump, Pentair 520 sqft cartridge filter, Pentair MasterTemp 400k BTU heater, Polaris P28 Pressure Cleaner, TF Pro test kit

I've been using 10% liquid chlorine, and yes, I bought the extra FAS/DPD along with the Pro test kit. 😀

Thanks so much for sharing the water cost for your pool! This gives me hope it won't be $500 to lower the CYA! Lol

I'm off to do the diluted test & will report back. Thanks!
 
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Sorry, I added all the pool details to my signature before posting, but it didn't show up, so here goes:

15K gal, plaster, Pentair IntelliFlo VS/SVRS pump, Pentair 520 sqft cartridge filter, Pentair MasterTemp 400k BTU heater, Polaris P28 Pressure Cleaner, TF Pro test kit


I've been using 10% liquid chlorine
No problem...you will need to drain some water, but let's get a better idea of how much. Do the 50% diluted test...
  • If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
    • Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
    • Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
    • Shake briefly to mix.
    • Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
    • Continue the test normally, but multiply the final result by two.
You'll need to complete the SLAM Process. The FC level you need to maintain depends on the CYA level at the time you start the process (FC/CYA Levels).

How do you plan to chlorinate the pool. SWG pools can maintain higher CYA levels?

How are you testing your water? Hopefully you have the larger sized FAS/DPD reagents found in the kits from TFtestkits.net.

Have you priced out the water refill? In my area, I can refill my pool for about $60 in water costs. Water is sold by the a unit which is 748 gallons. For your pool that's about 20 units. Check your water rates for a better estimate.
Feeling dumb asking this, but I filled to 15ml with pool water, then added tap water to the 30ml line, shook it to mix, then poured out half so it's back down to the 15ml line. Do I now pour it in the tube - as in, I don't need to add any of the R-0013 before reading it?
 
I knew I was missing something obvious! Thank you.

Okay, now it's at roughly 60 - *edit - just realized I forgot to multiply, so it's 120.
 
Last edited:
Okay, now it's at roughly 60.
So doubled gives you a CYA of 120 ppm...correct?

Others may have different recommendations, but I would drain/exchange about 60% which should get your CYA to about 50 ppm (no CYA in tap water). According to the chart below, your SLAM FC level would be 20 ppm:

1718487506850.png

50 ppm is also a good CYA level for a liquid chlorine pool in your area.

Read the article and begin to plan a refill/exchange. I see rain coming to your area which would be a good time to drain. You want to ensure the plaster remains moist during the process.


Let us know what you think...
 
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Yes, 120 ppm. Yeesh.

I read what you linked, thank you.

I'm pretty ignorant on the mechanics of the pool equipment, so please pardon my terminology - there have been a few instances of really heavy rain to the point we had to drain water. The extent of my knowledge is that it drains into the sewer? I think? Do you think that would be an appropriate way to drain?

As for the filling, the pool has a hose underground so we turn the water on at the spigot and the water flows out into a skimmer basket area. I've been envisioning draining as mentioned above, while at the same time filling like this.

Am I oversimplifying this?
 

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The extent of my knowledge is that it drains into the sewer? I think? Do you think that would be an appropriate way to drain?
As for the filling, the pool has a hose underground so we turn the water on at the spigot and the water flows out into a skimmer basket area. I've been envisioning draining as mentioned above, while at the same time filling like this.
Are you envisioning a "no drain water exchange?" If so, understand that this is a less efficient way of exchanging water, but a much safer way since you're not exposing plaster. The key is that the rate of the water going in needs to match the rate of water going out. @mknauss has a much better understanding of this method.

The other option is to use a submersible pump to drain 60%, then refill with fresh water. You do not want to use your pool pump to drain water below skimmer level as you run the risk running the pump dry and burning up the pump.
 
Are you envisioning a "no drain water exchange?" If so, understand that this is a less efficient way of exchanging water, but a much safer way since you're not exposing plaster. The key is that the rate of the water going in needs to match the rate of water going out. @mknauss has a much better understanding of this method.

The other option is to use a submersible pump to drain 60%, then refill with fresh water. You do not want to use your pool pump to drain water below skimmer level as you run the risk running the pump dry and burning up the pump.
Unless there's a way to decrease the water flow when draining that I don't know about, I'm positive it flows wayyyy faster than the fill hose, plus it would be the pool pump doing all the work, so it doesn't sound like a no drain exchange will be an option.

If I drain & then fill, would it be sufficient to use the garden hose to spray the plaster to keep it wet as it drains?
 
Is your pool fill line connected to a water softener. Your CH level is quite low is low for a pool in your climate. If so, don't use softened water to refill the pool. When you have time, test the CH and TA of your fill water.
 
Yes. Maybe set up a sprinkler. Rain would be great.
Ahhh, now I better understand your earlier comment about the rain. Yes, that would be very helpful!

Last night I read a bunch of different articles about draining/refilling, and I was ready to call the water department tomorrow morning to check restrictions on where the water can go, etc., but my husband wanted to take a water sample to the pool store & get their advice.

So we did that today, and the employee said the water looks "pretty good," & directed us to use chlorine granules. I then reminded him there's algae & it comes back week after week, & pointed out the high CYA, and told him I want to drain some & refill and start fresh, so to speak.

Then he said to drain a little, use algaecide, then use the granules. So now my husband wants to know why we can't just do that, & wants to call the store manager tomorrow to get his opinion.

For now I've added chlorine & won't bother with adjusting anything else until I know which direction this will go. Thankfully the cost of the granules freaked out my husband, & hopefully the manager will agree with me tomorrow.
 
Is your pool fill line connected to a water softener. Your CH level is quite low is low for a pool in your climate. If so, don't use softened water to refill the pool. When you have time, test the CH and TA of your fill water.
No, there isn't a softener. My hair wishes there were! Haha

I can check the CH & TA of the fill water tomorrow. I thought the CH # from yesterday was good, though - is it too low?
 
You did a great job of confronting the employee with some hard facts. Your CYA is too high and they want to sell you more junk. I think you know the correct course of action to follow. You took a big step forward when you bought the Cadillac of test kits.

What do you think the manager will tell you? Stand firm and don't allow them to sell you more products that will do nothing but empty your purse.

We are here to help when you're ready to move forward.
 
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