Help with SLAM

[KristaM78]

Check out mmm OCLT! Wil slam again a few more times today and check in AM. To finish. Then, on to other pool questions!

 

[PoolStored]

Yeah, speed stir pretty much does that!!!

 

[PoolStored]

Imma put this here, from your logs:

 

[Mdragger88]

 

[KristaM78]

Quick question. I am not at slam level this evening but I did pass OCLT last night and I think that I am done. I was hoping that I could just use my final test tonight and use that to guage OCLT tomorrow morning. Do I really need to bring to slam tonight wait 30 minutes retest just to start oh CLT for tomorrow?

 

[PoolStored]

Your pool is clear, you passed OCLT, your CC <.5. YOU PASSED. Perfectly within your rights to move on.

Having said that, many of go 1 more day at SLAM levels for "insurance."

I don't think you need to do another OCLT. Buuuuuuut, if you want to, no harm. Yeah, raise to SLAM level, 1/2 hour, test, go to bed, test before sunrise!

I think you just want an excuse to use the Smart Stir!

 

[KristaM78]

Your pool is clear, you passed OCLT, your CC <.5. YOU PASSED. Perfectly within your rights to move on.

Having said that, many of go 1 more day at SLAM levels for "insurance."

I don't think you need to do another OCLT. Buuuuuuut, if you want to, no harm. Yeah, raise to SLAM level, 1/2 hour, test, go to bed, test before sunrise!

I think you just want an excuse to use the Smart Stir!

Ha. No. I really just want to go to bed. I did raise to slam levels several times today I just don’t want to do it again before bed because I don’t wanna have to wait another 30 minutes to test so if I’m in the clear to leave it that’s what I want to do! BUT I will use that speedster in the morning to see if I lost any chlorine overnight. That thing is incredible people are crazy for not buying that !

 

[PoolStored]

if I’m in the clear to leave it that’s what I want to do!

You go do that! You did a great job, and stuck to it. I'm super proud.

Let's keep your levels where they need to be (happy to help with advice there) and avoid this again.

Let's also gear shift to "enjoy the pool!"

Hey...you deserve your spot in the hall of fame. Post up!

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[KristaM78]

Would you look at my latest log for me? Puzzled by something. Maybe because I didn’t bother moving to Slam last night. Hoping that is the case.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning. Are you referring to your comments about failing an OCLT? If so, that is indeed a concern. Your thread is quite long now so I haven't been on here for a while. But unless you simply made a testing error, failing an OCLT means you have too much organics. Something is eating that chlorine and it will only get worse during the day when the sun comes out. I think it's time to resume the proper FC (SLAM) level and inspect any of those pesky areas where organic material could hide. Probably already noted in this long thread, but here are some quick tips:
- Take light out of niche and place on decking with power off (does not apply to small LEDs)
- Remove any hollow ladder/steps
- Check under main drain covers
- If you use a cover, keep it off and inspect it as well underneath
- Check all pool toys, cleaners, etc for algae contamination
- Check your water circulation. Some pools have "dead spots" where the water becomes more stagnant and requires more brushing than the rest of the pool.
- Inspect your skimmer inside and out. Pay attention to the front and back of the weir door. Algae can grow in there.

I hope some of that helps.

 

[KristaM78]

Yes. Done those things and no one and nothing has been in pool. I actually passed OCLT night before. Odd I wouldnt pass the next day.

 

[PoolStored]

First, on the salt. Every gallon of Bleach will add 2.2 lbs of salt. For your pool, every gallon of 12.5% bleach will raise salt by 18. Every 5 gallons, will raise it 100. 10 Gallons, 200. Smart stir is excellent for salt test.

Back to the SLAM. I don't know if you added or not. I know this has been a long process. Being tired after dealing with everything else in the day, last thing you want to do is fight with a pool. I think, take a deep breath, and let's take our time tonight. Test and log everything accurately. Make your addition, wait 30 minutes with pump on, then test. When you do your testing, hold the bottle vertical, drop the drops sloooowly. Let each drop form and let it drop of its own accord (very slight pressure on the bottle). This will make the drops consistent. It has, for me, been a bit hard to discern what is really going on overnight, because you log your test, addition, but not the after test (you don't need to do it for every addition, but the OCLT is critical).

 

[KristaM78]

First, on the salt. Every gallon of Bleach will add 2.2 lbs of salt. For your pool, every gallon of 12.5% bleach will raise salt by 18. Every 5 gallons, will raise it 100. 10 Gallons, 200. Smart stir is excellent for salt test.

Back to the SLAM. I don't know if you added or not. I know this has been a long process. Being tired after dealing with everything else in the day, last thing you want to do is fight with a pool. I think, take a deep breath, and let's take our time tonight. Test and log everything accurately. Make your addition, wait 30 minutes with pump on, then test. When you do your testing, hold the bottle vertical, drop the drops sloooowly. Let each drop form and let it drop of its own accord (very slight pressure on the bottle). This will make the drops consistent. It has, for me, been a bit hard to discern what is really going on overnight, because you log your test, addition, but not the after test (you don't need to do it for every addition, but the OCLT is critical).

I’ll give you that. The previous several nights leading up to when I was going to really try the OCLT I didn’t bother staying up for my final test because I knew I was losing chlorine fast and I just felt confident that final edition wasn’t getting miraculously kill it all. I just wanted to get to SLAM knowing I would continue SLAM the next day. As for drops, I’m very careful, straight up and down, slight pressure, etc. but, will repeat today!

I still don’t think my salt would be that high. Will retest. The last thing I want to do is drain and add water.

 

[KristaM78]

While we are here waiting and as a follow up on one of my previous posts… You guys are so amazing and helpful! I have course of red 8732 posts while I have the longest thread in history going. But, I want to make sure I understand something going forward. My builder had me using a non-foaming algicide as well as a metal out every week or two. Small doses I think 2 to 4 ounces each. Based on everything I’ve read in your forums I believe my understanding is that it was proper chlorination you do not think that either one of those is necessary. Am I understanding that correctly. As I mentioned I will be gone quite a bit this summer with a friend taking care of my pool so I will be leaving him instructions. Also, no non chlorine shock. Chlorine only to Slam as needed when CC over .5?

 

[Texas Splash]

Definitely no need for algaecide. It will actually use-up more of your chlorine. Now you know about the SLAM Process and the FC/CYA Levels to keep the water algae-free. If the algaecide is non-copper, then save it for winter closing is you wish. If are on a well or known to have a high iron content in the city water, then a metal out/sequestrant product might be worth using.

 

[KristaM78]

Using what @mdragger said, test your pool a couple times before you go. We can call it 24 hour CLT. Leave the pool alone, with the cover on. Test at the beginning of 24 hours and the end of the 24 hours. Do it a couple times when you are not going to use the pool. This will give you a decent idea of the daily FC loss. We can set it off of that.

Can you arm your neighbor with the FAS-DPD and have them adjust your SWCG weekly?

This is in your sig. Chlormaker CL02 swg. Can you point me online, I couldn't find this, just a spa module.

Hey. To clarify on this. By leave the pool alone, do you mean covered, pump on obviously, but SWG OFF?

 

[PoolStored]

Nope. We are pretending you are away and seeing how much FC your pool uses and if SWCG is setup to maintain FC. Cover on, pump setup the way you want, SWCG running.

 

[KristaM78]

There has been talk about removing my lights. I don’t had ladder etc so nothing to really remove in the pool. Light do not even have a screw from what I can tell. However, I did notice something today. If you zoom in on the Intellibrite lite, you can see than there are several opening in the lens. Almost like you could place a screwdriver in and pop it out. Are you familiar with this light? Pentair Glo Brite.

 

[Mdragger88]

Those are nicheless i think & shouldn’t have algea so u r good! To be sure lets ask the expert - I believe @mknauss has these. If they need to be removed he can tell u how.

 

[PoolStored]

I asked @mknauss to come and comment.

I don't know or understand these lights, but they are removable. Don't know if it is possible for algae to be in/behind these.

From the manual:
1. Switch off electrical switch or circuit breaker at the source,
2. Remove Junction Box or Transformer cover. Disconnect the light wires and attach a fish tape to the existing light power cord. This will assist in pulling the replacement light power cord through the conduit back to the junction box.
3. Remove the GloBrite color light assembly from the pool or spa water: Using the provided installation tool (P/N 620057), rotate the light assembly counter-clockwise about a 1/8th turn to release the light from the niche as shown on page 11).
4. Slowly pull the light and attached power cord (with attached fish tape) out of the niche. Pull the light’s power cord and fish tape out of the niche and place the light on the deck.
5. Attach the new light power cord to the fish tape and carefully feed the fish tape and cable to the junction box.
6. Install the light into the niche: Place the light installation tool over the front of the light. Turn the tool and light clockwise while pushing inward, until you feel the stop point. This indicates the light is properly seated, locked and the electrical conduit, is completely sealed (see page 11). Note: If the light does not turn smoothly, pull the light slightly out and be sure that it’s seated properly and the niche is free of debris, then install the light as described in step 5.
7. Connect the two (2) conductors to the corresponding circuit wires in the Junction Box (black wire to power, white wire to common) and secure the Junction Box cover in place.
8. Final check for proper GloBrite Color light operation: Switch on the main switch or circuit breaker to the 12 VAC transformer and the switch that operates the light itself. The light should illuminate when 12 VAC power is applied. If not recheck the installation steps.

Page 12

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/manuals/lighting/globrite/globrite-color-changing-led-light-manual-english-spanish-french.pdf

Tool mentioned in instructions comes with the o-ring:

O-Ring Replacement Kit Pentair GloBrite OEM 620057

O-Ring Replacement Kit Pentair GloBrite OEM 620057

www.poolspaoutpost.com