Dirk has a cartridge filter. You cannot back wash them. You have to take the cartridge out and hose it down.
Kim
Kim
Getting ready for SWG
- Thread starter Dirk
- Start date
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,290
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
The swg might be a bit of a warning sign but I'm not aware if it's reliable in that sense. For me I seem to notice tiny bits of scale at the water line, around the skimmer throat. My CSI is usually around 0.4 or 0.5 when I see that. I saw a tiny bit of scale on my swg when the water got up to 0.54. Not much evidence or enough for me to know anything more than TFPC recommendations so I just stick with the recommendations in PoolMath. You'll see -0.6 to +0.6 in the text, but when you hover over the result you'll see text that warns you when you're outside -0.3 to +0.3, and at least for me, that seems very safe.
And yep, the recommended levels take CSI into account, along with sanitation and swimmer comfort. So you can generally ignore CSI and just stay within the recommended ranges, or use it for fine-tuning as you see fit.
And yep, the recommended levels take CSI into account, along with sanitation and swimmer comfort. So you can generally ignore CSI and just stay within the recommended ranges, or use it for fine-tuning as you see fit.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
SWG Journal
About 6:15 PM and I tested:
FC: 6
pH: 7.9
Temp: 76
Lost a little more FC today! But still above target. pH is still on the rise. It's a bit disconcerting to not have to worry about FC plummeting everyday. But I'm obviously getting used to it, because I actually skipped a day of testing and dosing. Luxury! Very cool. So for tomorrow, no change in settings:
RPM: 1500
GPM: 21
SWG Hours: 8
Output: 50%
I'll continue to check the FC each day for a while, in the evening (after the sun is off the pool).
Didn't really get to the bottom of the CH Saga. It might be my imagination, but I think I'm hearing from two slightly different camps. One that leans more heavily on keeping everything within recommended ranges, and the other camp that seems to rely more on CSI. My original goal, was to keep both in line (all levels within range and a great CSI), without either compromising the other, which was why I was trying to get to the bottom of whether I should raise my CH into range. I think I'll let it slowly creep up until it hits 350, technically within range, and then see if my pH stabilizes at a level that'll make my CSI happy. Something like that. My numbers are pretty good though, so this is more of a mental exercise than anything else. I think my pool is sitting pretty (if a bit cold!!)...
About 6:15 PM and I tested:
FC: 6
pH: 7.9
Temp: 76
Lost a little more FC today! But still above target. pH is still on the rise. It's a bit disconcerting to not have to worry about FC plummeting everyday. But I'm obviously getting used to it, because I actually skipped a day of testing and dosing. Luxury! Very cool. So for tomorrow, no change in settings:
RPM: 1500
GPM: 21
SWG Hours: 8
Output: 50%
I'll continue to check the FC each day for a while, in the evening (after the sun is off the pool).
Didn't really get to the bottom of the CH Saga. It might be my imagination, but I think I'm hearing from two slightly different camps. One that leans more heavily on keeping everything within recommended ranges, and the other camp that seems to rely more on CSI. My original goal, was to keep both in line (all levels within range and a great CSI), without either compromising the other, which was why I was trying to get to the bottom of whether I should raise my CH into range. I think I'll let it slowly creep up until it hits 350, technically within range, and then see if my pH stabilizes at a level that'll make my CSI happy. Something like that. My numbers are pretty good though, so this is more of a mental exercise than anything else. I think my pool is sitting pretty (if a bit cold!!)...
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
SWG Journal
OK, enough about CH (but I'll still accept late votes: raise CH330 to CH350? Or leave alone?). Back to the SWG.
One thing that was challenging me was being able to find a SWG schedule (output and hours) that would co-exist with my solar schedule. The SWG schedule is a mostly consistent (x hours a day). Solar schedule, on the other hand, can sometimes be dependent on whether I think I'm going to swim at all (sometimes I won't heat the pool for a day), or if family is coming over (who want it warmer), or if I'll be swimming late evening, depending on how warm out it is. So sometimes allowing solar only during SWG hours is fine. Other times I don't want any solar heating to occur, to save energy. And then sometimes I want to extend solar hours beyond SWG hours. But that would mean I'd mess up my FC because the SWG would be running longer than it needs to.
Then I solved it!!
My miserly EasyTouch PSL4 has a lot of limitations. Scheduling being the worst. For some reason my PB gave me the lite ET, but he also made it the SPA version, though I don't have a SPA. I didn't like that, because the SPA controls and functions mess with my ScreenLogic interface and pretty much just get in the way.
Then during the winter, I found a great use for the SPA automation. I set SPA to come on during freeze mode (an obscure function of the ET), and that works great. It lights up a big ol' green LED on my Indoor Control Panel whenever in freeze mode. And it plots on ScreenLogics' History graphs when exactly freeze mode occurred. So now I like having the ET with SPA!
Well, that led me to my solution for the solar/SWG issue. For swim season, when freeze mode is no longer needed, I've reassigned the SPA functions from freeze to solar, but I set the SWG setting for SPA to zero!
Now my SWG runs during Pool mode (filtering mode) 8am-4pm. And my solar is scheduled to run during Pool mode as well. If it's a normal swim day, I do nothing. If I won't be swimming that day, I can turn off solar heating manually, on the fly, and it'll reset and come back on the next day. But if I want to extend my solar heating beyond my SWG hours, I just hit the SPA button on my Indoor Control Panel, or on my iPhone (like if I'm out of the house), and I'll get solar heat until the sun goes down, but it won't mess with my FC production that day, because the SWG is set to zero for SPA mode. Yay!
Because I don't actually have a SPA, no actuators operate, so the water all flows through the pool, whether in Pool mode or SPA mode. The ET doesn't make the distinction!
All mostly meaningless to everyone here, but it is a testament to automation, and ScreenLogic. Two things I would not want to do without. Many here building pools struggle with the necessity of automation vs it's cost. And others swear they can run a pool fine without it. But I think there is a disconnect between what these people think automation is about, vs what it can actually do for you if you push it, and utilize all its capabilities. It's also a tip for those considering an ET. I'm not sure what models come with and without SPA, but if you have the choice, get SPA, because even if you don't have a SPA, you can use that component of an ET for all kinds of other things. And the ET allows you to rename "SPA" to something else, so it makes sense within my ScreenLogic interface what "SPA" mode is actually doing. I don't know if any of these concepts translate to Hayward or Jandy systems. Maybe somebody can make use of this idea for their own special needs.
This is all made very easy by the computer interface of ScreenLogic. A great add-on to automation. So "yes" to automation. "Yes" to ScreenLogic. And for me, it's still a big "Yes" for the little engine that could, my Indoor Control Panel!
BTW, it's not lost on me that the notion that anyone would discover any of my life-altering-advice in post #184 of a thread is pretty silly!
My only questions for anyone who might have braved it this far... because my SWG and circulation is handled sufficiently during my Pool (filter) cycle, when I turn on the "Solar No SWG" mode described above, I only need the pump to ramp up when there is demand for solar. If the pool is already warm enough, or the sun is going down, I don't really need the pump to be running at all. I have the RPM for this "Solar No SWG" mode currently set at 500RPM, to save on energy when there is no demand for solar.
So the questions: since I don't need the pump to accomplish anything, but it still must be running, is there any setting for RPM that is too low? Is that 500RPM setting hurting anything? Can I set it to zero? So that it would be basically off until the solar demand needs its 2200RPM?
OK, enough about CH (but I'll still accept late votes: raise CH330 to CH350? Or leave alone?). Back to the SWG.
One thing that was challenging me was being able to find a SWG schedule (output and hours) that would co-exist with my solar schedule. The SWG schedule is a mostly consistent (x hours a day). Solar schedule, on the other hand, can sometimes be dependent on whether I think I'm going to swim at all (sometimes I won't heat the pool for a day), or if family is coming over (who want it warmer), or if I'll be swimming late evening, depending on how warm out it is. So sometimes allowing solar only during SWG hours is fine. Other times I don't want any solar heating to occur, to save energy. And then sometimes I want to extend solar hours beyond SWG hours. But that would mean I'd mess up my FC because the SWG would be running longer than it needs to.
Then I solved it!!
My miserly EasyTouch PSL4 has a lot of limitations. Scheduling being the worst. For some reason my PB gave me the lite ET, but he also made it the SPA version, though I don't have a SPA. I didn't like that, because the SPA controls and functions mess with my ScreenLogic interface and pretty much just get in the way.
Then during the winter, I found a great use for the SPA automation. I set SPA to come on during freeze mode (an obscure function of the ET), and that works great. It lights up a big ol' green LED on my Indoor Control Panel whenever in freeze mode. And it plots on ScreenLogics' History graphs when exactly freeze mode occurred. So now I like having the ET with SPA!
Well, that led me to my solution for the solar/SWG issue. For swim season, when freeze mode is no longer needed, I've reassigned the SPA functions from freeze to solar, but I set the SWG setting for SPA to zero!
Now my SWG runs during Pool mode (filtering mode) 8am-4pm. And my solar is scheduled to run during Pool mode as well. If it's a normal swim day, I do nothing. If I won't be swimming that day, I can turn off solar heating manually, on the fly, and it'll reset and come back on the next day. But if I want to extend my solar heating beyond my SWG hours, I just hit the SPA button on my Indoor Control Panel, or on my iPhone (like if I'm out of the house), and I'll get solar heat until the sun goes down, but it won't mess with my FC production that day, because the SWG is set to zero for SPA mode. Yay!
Because I don't actually have a SPA, no actuators operate, so the water all flows through the pool, whether in Pool mode or SPA mode. The ET doesn't make the distinction!
All mostly meaningless to everyone here, but it is a testament to automation, and ScreenLogic. Two things I would not want to do without. Many here building pools struggle with the necessity of automation vs it's cost. And others swear they can run a pool fine without it. But I think there is a disconnect between what these people think automation is about, vs what it can actually do for you if you push it, and utilize all its capabilities. It's also a tip for those considering an ET. I'm not sure what models come with and without SPA, but if you have the choice, get SPA, because even if you don't have a SPA, you can use that component of an ET for all kinds of other things. And the ET allows you to rename "SPA" to something else, so it makes sense within my ScreenLogic interface what "SPA" mode is actually doing. I don't know if any of these concepts translate to Hayward or Jandy systems. Maybe somebody can make use of this idea for their own special needs.
This is all made very easy by the computer interface of ScreenLogic. A great add-on to automation. So "yes" to automation. "Yes" to ScreenLogic. And for me, it's still a big "Yes" for the little engine that could, my Indoor Control Panel!
BTW, it's not lost on me that the notion that anyone would discover any of my life-altering-advice in post #184 of a thread is pretty silly!
My only questions for anyone who might have braved it this far... because my SWG and circulation is handled sufficiently during my Pool (filter) cycle, when I turn on the "Solar No SWG" mode described above, I only need the pump to ramp up when there is demand for solar. If the pool is already warm enough, or the sun is going down, I don't really need the pump to be running at all. I have the RPM for this "Solar No SWG" mode currently set at 500RPM, to save on energy when there is no demand for solar.
So the questions: since I don't need the pump to accomplish anything, but it still must be running, is there any setting for RPM that is too low? Is that 500RPM setting hurting anything? Can I set it to zero? So that it would be basically off until the solar demand needs its 2200RPM?
Dirk, that all makes so much sense. Good thinking outside the box (or word). Hard to overcome when it says SPA it can do something other than SPA like your SOLAR! Well done!
Pump-I really don't see how it could hurt the pump to run is at a setting it has in it..........they would not have that setting if it would cause harm is my thinking. As for setting it to zero when it does not need to run, I say go for it and see what happens. Be there when it is happening and let your ears and eyes see what is happening and how "happy" the pump is so you can make a decision. THEN come back here and let us know your findings!
Kim
Pump-I really don't see how it could hurt the pump to run is at a setting it has in it..........they would not have that setting if it would cause harm is my thinking. As for setting it to zero when it does not need to run, I say go for it and see what happens. Be there when it is happening and let your ears and eyes see what is happening and how "happy" the pump is so you can make a decision. THEN come back here and let us know your findings!
Kim
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Right-o. (And thanks for making it this far!!
)I keep pushin' my little ET. It demonstrates Pentair's weird design decisions (which I still say is completely revenue based, to drive upgrades). For example, it was a nice discovery to find I could rename "SPA" for my own purposes. That's a great design feature. Versus the utter disappoint when I discovered my $600 automation computer can only handle four programmable schedules!
I did just what you suggest for the 500RPM setting, but was cautious about going lower. Your logic is sound, Pentair shouldn't allow an RPM that would be harmful to its own pumps, but ya never know (based on their inconsistencies when it comes to interfaces and capabilities, like I mention above). Just making sure someone doesn't shout "Noooo! Don't do that because [fill in the blank] and I ruined my [fill in the blank] that way!!"
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
SWG Journal
Shoot, my first SWG glitch. I don't think this is related to what I was fooling with for the "Solar No SWG" experiment (see above). This looks more like what I was experiencing last season when my SWG never got working consistently.
I got a salt reading of 2500 just now, so no SWG today. I cycled the system to force another SWG salt test. It tests just once, right, when it first powers up? So turning it off and on would get another salt reading I think. No joy, still 2550.
Last year this was all over the place. The pool guys couldn't give me a read on the pool's salt (using their digital readers, their results were all over the place). And the SWG was reporting all kinds of numbers, from day to day.
If you consider the SWG's salt testing margin of error, along with my K-1766's margin of error, I suppose I could actually have low salt. But I don't want to be dumping salt into my pool to later learn this was a faulty SWG all along. And it's been working for almost a week! Err. And I don't really want to call Pentair because they'll just send the same pool guys out here that couldn't get it working last year. I suppose that's what I'll have to do, though, and then try to get them to replace the SWG without adding more salt. A long shot.
Last salt test was 3000. Manual states 3000 - 4500 ppm range, 3400 ideal. ScreenLogic indicates the same operational params. I'll test the salt again a bit later today, but there's been no rain or splash out to affect its level.
What's so frustrating, that given very similar water temps (it's actually warmer today), my SWG can report 2950 on day one, then 3150 a few days later, then 2550 a few days after that!
I suppose I'm going to have to bump salt to 3400 to rule out the K-1766's margin of error. Bummer, I liked the idea of starting out low, to prolong the inevitable water exchange.
I suppose I'm just talking to myself, too! Just in case...
Thoughts, before I add salt?
Has anyone else's IC40 internal salt level readings differed by as much 600ppm within the same week?
Shoot, my first SWG glitch. I don't think this is related to what I was fooling with for the "Solar No SWG" experiment (see above). This looks more like what I was experiencing last season when my SWG never got working consistently.
I got a salt reading of 2500 just now, so no SWG today. I cycled the system to force another SWG salt test. It tests just once, right, when it first powers up? So turning it off and on would get another salt reading I think. No joy, still 2550.
Last year this was all over the place. The pool guys couldn't give me a read on the pool's salt (using their digital readers, their results were all over the place). And the SWG was reporting all kinds of numbers, from day to day.
If you consider the SWG's salt testing margin of error, along with my K-1766's margin of error, I suppose I could actually have low salt. But I don't want to be dumping salt into my pool to later learn this was a faulty SWG all along. And it's been working for almost a week! Err. And I don't really want to call Pentair because they'll just send the same pool guys out here that couldn't get it working last year. I suppose that's what I'll have to do, though, and then try to get them to replace the SWG without adding more salt. A long shot.
Last salt test was 3000. Manual states 3000 - 4500 ppm range, 3400 ideal. ScreenLogic indicates the same operational params. I'll test the salt again a bit later today, but there's been no rain or splash out to affect its level.
What's so frustrating, that given very similar water temps (it's actually warmer today), my SWG can report 2950 on day one, then 3150 a few days later, then 2550 a few days after that!
I suppose I'm going to have to bump salt to 3400 to rule out the K-1766's margin of error. Bummer, I liked the idea of starting out low, to prolong the inevitable water exchange.
I suppose I'm just talking to myself, too!
Just in case...Thoughts, before I add salt?
Has anyone else's IC40 internal salt level readings differed by as much 600ppm within the same week?
cfherrman
TFP Guide
I think you can do a 44 mil test with the k1766 for a 80ppm a drop test.
Start recording water temps when you test salt level with your cell
Start recording water temps when you test salt level with your cell
Dirk, I think you need to ask that question over at the SWG part of TFP. This does need to be looked at and explored. It really does not make sense!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks, cf.
Yes, I was going to double the test later today to get a bit more accuracy.
And I've been recording temps. But those temps have been within a few degrees, and well above the 52° threshold. I might expect a 600ppm difference between winter and summer, but this was two days, of similar weather!
Kim, good idea. I'll check in over there after I get my salt number later. Erg, I thought I had this dialed in, and now I basically have to start over again...
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I just got a new swg, it's a pureline, supposedly a generic hayward. I am having similar issues with it to the point of getting a low salt warning. I am still playing with it but I think it is due to rpm being too low. I have never had a low flow issue. Just an idea, ramp your rpm up to 2000 or so and see what it does. In the meantime they are shipping me a new system so I can see what it does.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That's a very easy thing to try, I will, thanks! I'm on the low side of the recommended flow, so that's definitely worth a shot.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
SWG Journal
About 8:00 PM and I tested:
FC: 5.5
pH: 7.7
Salt: 3200
Temp: 75
Lost a little more FC today! But still above target. I lost some FC because my SWG was off half the day. See above. So for tomorrow, I'm going to goose the RPMs to see if that affects the SWG's salt testing reliability:
RPM: 1750
GPM: TBD
SWG Hours: 8
Output: 50%
I'll continue to check the FC each day for a while, in the evening (after the sun is off the pool).
It's unfortunate, if understandable, that the salt test in the SWG can't be overridden. I know there's enough salt for SWG operation: I've tested it, and the SWG was generating chlorine as expected for several days at the current salt level. It's frustrating to lose a day of SWG operation just because it only tests salt once a day, and badly a lot of the time at that.
I tested salt three times just now:
- Doubled the sample to 20ml and put in two drops of R-0630 then needed 32 drops of R-0718 reagent to "catch my salmon."
- 10ml sample, one drop, 17 drops of reagent
- 20ml sample, one drop of R-0630, then 32 drops of R-0718
Pretty sure I'm at 3200ppm, give or take this test's margin of error. Not sure still whether to use one or two drops of R-0630 for a 20ml sample.
Even with a margin or error of 400ppm, that might mean 2800ppm, which is 200ppm above my SWGs cut off level.
My salt might be pushing the bottom limit, and the flow is actually lower than the SWGs flow range (21GPM when 25GPM min is recommend), so it's not quite fair yet to say the SWG is defective. I think I need to bump the flow to 25GPM and the salt to 3400ppm to give this thing a fighting chance, and accept the fact that it's not going to give me any leeway on its spec's.
About 8:00 PM and I tested:
FC: 5.5
pH: 7.7
Salt: 3200
Temp: 75
Lost a little more FC today! But still above target. I lost some FC because my SWG was off half the day. See above. So for tomorrow, I'm going to goose the RPMs to see if that affects the SWG's salt testing reliability:
RPM: 1750
GPM: TBD
SWG Hours: 8
Output: 50%
I'll continue to check the FC each day for a while, in the evening (after the sun is off the pool).
It's unfortunate, if understandable, that the salt test in the SWG can't be overridden. I know there's enough salt for SWG operation: I've tested it, and the SWG was generating chlorine as expected for several days at the current salt level. It's frustrating to lose a day of SWG operation just because it only tests salt once a day, and badly a lot of the time at that.
I tested salt three times just now:
- Doubled the sample to 20ml and put in two drops of R-0630 then needed 32 drops of R-0718 reagent to "catch my salmon."
- 10ml sample, one drop, 17 drops of reagent
- 20ml sample, one drop of R-0630, then 32 drops of R-0718
Pretty sure I'm at 3200ppm, give or take this test's margin of error. Not sure still whether to use one or two drops of R-0630 for a 20ml sample.
Even with a margin or error of 400ppm, that might mean 2800ppm, which is 200ppm above my SWGs cut off level.
My salt might be pushing the bottom limit, and the flow is actually lower than the SWGs flow range (21GPM when 25GPM min is recommend), so it's not quite fair yet to say the SWG is defective. I think I need to bump the flow to 25GPM and the salt to 3400ppm to give this thing a fighting chance, and accept the fact that it's not going to give me any leeway on its spec's.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Fail! OK:
It's not flow. I'm getting 32GPM this morning at 1750RPM. That's 7GPM over the minimum required.
It's not temperature, water is currently 67°. That's 15° over the minimum required.
The SWG is reporting 2500ppm salt, which is 700ppm lower than the K-1766 test result of 3200ppm. Which is 600ppm over the minimum required.
And it's not anything to do with solar bubbles, as the solar system hasn't come on yet.
I think I have a bad SWG, and before I add salt I'm going to see if I can get a new one out of Pentair... Errr!
It's not flow. I'm getting 32GPM this morning at 1750RPM. That's 7GPM over the minimum required.
It's not temperature, water is currently 67°. That's 15° over the minimum required.
The SWG is reporting 2500ppm salt, which is 700ppm lower than the K-1766 test result of 3200ppm. Which is 600ppm over the minimum required.
And it's not anything to do with solar bubbles, as the solar system hasn't come on yet.
I think I have a bad SWG, and before I add salt I'm going to see if I can get a new one out of Pentair... Errr!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Absolutely. And now I'll be better prepared for the Pentair phone call!
I just read in another thread that the IC40 flow sensor is related to (connected to?) the temp sensor, and that whole part is a common failure point for their SWGs (that fact is all over this forum). A bad temp sensor would mess with the salt test. So that is the next culprit in line.
But that's for Pentair to sort out. I'm not replacing that part while under warranty...
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,927
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK, I've been slacking on the SWG updates because it has only been working intermittently, about every other day, so recording how it affects FC would be pointless. I finally called Pentair, whose tech support people have historically given me really great service, and got one of the rudest people on the phone I've had to deal with in a while. So bad, I asked for a supervisor, but was denied that. Very disappointing.
Anyway, despite her attitude she did set up the warranty repair (after trying to convince me for a while that the unit was fine). She connected me with a semi-local guy who I haven't worked with before today. And he is awesome. He's out in my yard now. He's all... I don't mess with flow switches, you're getting a brand new unit. Yay! So while that won't reset my warranty period, I do get a do over on the whole thing, so a year of partial wear and tear is now being erased.
Hopefully this one will work better. The repair guy couldn't really guarantee that. He said Pentair has done some work to improve its known shortcoming, the flow switch, but he's not convinced it's made a significant difference in their reliability. He thinks their new SWG line (iChlor?) shows promise in terms of reliability, but he hasn't worked on them enough to say for sure. Time will tell. He did say that while the iChlor is physically smaller, Pentair includes (or sells?) an extension that allows the iChlor to retrofit right into the space of the IC series without replumbing anything. So maybe in five years I'll check one out.
Adventures with SWG resumes tomorrow!
PS. Oh, to be fair... I gripe about a lot of things Pentair. But warranty repair/replacement service is not one of them...
PPS. I talked to this repair guy at length. He was pretty adamant that Pentair is hands down the best SWG on the market in terms of reliability. He didn't have good things to say about Jandy, and even less about Hayward. He thought that was pretty much true across the entire product line. Very pro-Pentair. That's his "pro" opinion, for what it's worth. Thought I'd pass it along. True or not, it was nice to hear, seein's how I have a yard full of the stuff!
Anyway, despite her attitude she did set up the warranty repair (after trying to convince me for a while that the unit was fine). She connected me with a semi-local guy who I haven't worked with before today. And he is awesome. He's out in my yard now. He's all... I don't mess with flow switches, you're getting a brand new unit. Yay! So while that won't reset my warranty period, I do get a do over on the whole thing, so a year of partial wear and tear is now being erased.
Hopefully this one will work better. The repair guy couldn't really guarantee that. He said Pentair has done some work to improve its known shortcoming, the flow switch, but he's not convinced it's made a significant difference in their reliability. He thinks their new SWG line (iChlor?) shows promise in terms of reliability, but he hasn't worked on them enough to say for sure. Time will tell. He did say that while the iChlor is physically smaller, Pentair includes (or sells?) an extension that allows the iChlor to retrofit right into the space of the IC series without replumbing anything. So maybe in five years I'll check one out.
Adventures with SWG resumes tomorrow!
PS. Oh, to be fair... I gripe about a lot of things Pentair. But warranty repair/replacement service is not one of them...
PPS. I talked to this repair guy at length. He was pretty adamant that Pentair is hands down the best SWG on the market in terms of reliability. He didn't have good things to say about Jandy, and even less about Hayward. He thought that was pretty much true across the entire product line. Very pro-Pentair. That's his "pro" opinion, for what it's worth. Thought I'd pass it along. True or not, it was nice to hear, seein's how I have a yard full of the stuff!