First year having to open the pool saltwater NJ

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You are in good shape. I like my FC higher than the target number since swimmers can use it up quick. I like a healthy cushion and don't think there is a problem with it being higher unless someone tells me here that is a bad idea. Mine is like 10 but that's me.
 
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Wolfepack88 said:
You are in good shape. I like my FC higher than the target number since swimmers can use it up quick. I like a healthy cushion and don't think there is a problem with it being higher unless someone tells me here that is a bad idea. Mine is like 10 but that's me.
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Nope there's more of us #teamrunhot @Newdude @PoolStored
 
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Wolfepack88 said:
seriously is there any downside to running a higher FC?
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Yes. FC burns off as a % so more is lost at, say 11, than 3. It really becomes noticeable in the 20s, but isn't all that much in the ranges we are using. Not for the insurance it provides at least.

We have short seasons by me and almost everyone I know gets taken out of service for a couple of weeks at least once, if not twice. Cheaping out on chlorine can cost them half our season.
 
Newdude said:
Yes. FC burns off as a % so more is lost at, say 11, than 3. It really becomes noticeable in the 20s, but isn't all that much in the ranges we are using. Not for the insurance it provides at least.

We have short seasons by me and almost everyone I know gets taken out of service for a couple of weeks at least once, if not twice. Cheaping out on chlorine can cost them half our season.
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Because they need to SLAM, is that what you mean by being taken out?
 
Wolfepack88 said:
Because they need to SLAM, is that what you mean by being taken out?
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Yeah. Because they have swamps from using too little chlorine. Maybe I 'waste' an extra ppm due to daily burn off by running hot, but then I don't lose any precious time in our short season up here. And it's probably a wash when you factor the SLAM supplies needed to correct not having enough FC.
 
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Wolfepack88 said:
You are in good shape. I like my FC higher than the target number since swimmers can use it up quick. I like a healthy cushion and don't think there is a problem with it being higher unless someone tells me here that is a bad idea. Mine is like 10 but that's me.
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Wolfepack88 said:
seriously is there any downside to running a higher FC?
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@Newdude answered your questions. Running at the top end of the recommended range allows me to worry less about FC, have a reserve when the grandkids show up unannounced, and avoid the SLAM. I did one of those and expect to never do one again. If it costs me a bit in SWCG cell life, so be it. #TeamRunHot
 
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I’m gonna try to get it to 9-10 . Should I leave my cya at 60 ? I’m in NJ if it matters at all

Now I need to work on ph and such I think it’s an 8 right now
 
6spdg37s said:
Should I leave my cya at 60 ? I’m in NJ if it matters at all
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60 is probably fine for the northeast, but even 2 neighbors pools can be proverbial night and day with shade differences. I moved a mile down the road and my old pool was heavily shaded while the new one is blazing sun all day. They are 2 totally different beasts. Road test it and see how it does. If the FC holds to the 2-4 ppm of daily UV loss, then it's good for you.

If you find the daily demand jumps in July (etc), raise it to 70.
 

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6spdg37s said:
I mean my pool is in the sun all day long
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Me too but I have an autocover that is on when we are not swimming. My CYA was 60 all of last year but this year I believe its 70 (Dang test is always tricky for my eyes). I came back from my vacation and my level was almost at slam level, oops but it was still swimmable and it slowing came down but always was 10-12ppm with a cya of 60. I don't ever want to SLAM so I don't mind it there and my cell is only at 15% at max.
 
Wolfepack88 said:
Me too but I have an autocover that is on when we are not swimming. My CYA was 60 all of last year but this year I believe its 70 (Dang test is always tricky for my eyes). I came back from my vacation and my level was almost at slam level, oops but it was still swimmable and it slowing came down but always was 10-12ppm with a cya of 60. I don't ever want to SLAM so I don't mind it there and my cell is only at 15% at max.
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Wolfe,

What % are you running your Jandy SWG to keep your Chlorine at 10ppm? I see you have a Variable speed pump. I'm still old school with a single speed pump, and I have to run my SWG @ 80% to maintain 6-7ppm running 11 hours/day. I know that my SWG will not last 5-7 years at that output. My first cell lasted me 1 1/2 seasons(8 months total) until my center pin failed. It was covered under warranty.
 
SecoSteve said:
Wolfe,

What % are you running your Jandy SWG to keep your Chlorine at 10ppm? I see you have a Variable speed pump. I'm still old school with a single speed pump, and I have to run my SWG @ 80% to maintain 6-7ppm running 11 hours/day. I know that my SWG will not last 5-7 years at that output. My first cell lasted me 1 1/2 seasons(8 months total) until my center pin failed. It was covered under warranty.
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For now its 10% then I move it up to 15% but you must understand I have an autocover so when we are not swimming its covered. So I build chlorine when I leave it at 15%. I just looked at my log from Sept 14 of last year and my FC was 15.5 and that was using 15%. So I'm trying to find a spot between 9-15% that keeps me stable but not building so high.

Pump.jpg
 
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Wolfepack88 said:
For now its 10% then I move it up to 15% but you must understand I have an autocover so when we are not swimming its covered. So I build chlorine when I leave it at 15%. I just looked at my log from Sept 14 of last year and my FC was 15.5 and that was using 15%. So I'm trying to find a spot between 9-15% that keeps me stable but not building so high.

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Wow. I've got to get a variable speed motor. I would love to run 10-15% SWG. It was my bad that I didn't find TFP until after signing with my PB. I wanted to make the change to variable speed after the single speed was set on my pad, but the PB wanted $1100 AND a fee for both the plumber and electrician. Needless to say, it didn't get ordered.

Is that 3600ppm salt the actual reading from the drop test or is that what the iAqualink reads? That seems on the high end. You must really taste the salt. I run at 3000-3200ppm and I can taste the salt.
 
SecoSteve said:
Wow. I've got to get a variable speed motor. I would love to run 10-15% SWG. It was my bad that I didn't find TFP until after signing with my PB. I wanted to make the change to variable speed after the single speed was set on my pad, but the PB wanted $1100 AND a fee for both the plumber and electrician. Needless to say, it didn't get ordered.

Is that 3600ppm salt the actual reading from the drop test or is that what the iAqualink reads? That seems on the high end. You must really taste the salt. I run at 3000-3200ppm and I can taste the salt.
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That is the what the sensor sees but the drop test is right on that. I followed pool math on that and didn't leave some room for error so I overshot on salt this year. I was right in your range last year. I will tell my kids I'm trying to preserve them, LOL.
 
Wolfepack88 said:
That is the what the sensor sees but the drop test is right on that. I followed pool math on that and didn't leave some room for error so I overshot on salt this year. I was right in your range last year. I will tell my kids I'm trying to preserve them, LOL.
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:LOL: I'll drop by and dip my Margarita Glasses in your pool to salt the rims!
 
ok so I had a pretty nasty leak from around the skimmer but I was able to repair it (see my other thread)

now the leak is stopped all together or minimized to almost non existent.

getting my chemistry back in check

salt is at 3000
CYA - 30
FC 4.5
CC-0

going to add 3 quarts of 12.5% bleach
2 gallons of liquid stabilizer
100 lbs of salt

should bring me up to CYA - 70 FC-9 Salt 3600
 

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