First Water Test - Now Taylor 2006C

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A tiny bit of solder would probably work. You just need a blob that touches both points.

Maybe use a tiny bit of copper wire touching both points and a little bit of solder.
 
Second what JamesW said. Short wire to jumper the two and then see what happens.

The amp/voltage readings should be different for the T15. I just checked mine and it's at 25.2v, 5.99a.

Here's what the board manual says:

2. Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 30-35V)
3. Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps)

From the inyo pools site, the amperage ranges for the different cells:
  • T-15 Amp Range: 3.1 – 8.0 amps
  • T- 9 Amp Range: 2.3 – 6.7 amps
  • T-5 Amp Range: 1.9 – 5.7 amps
  • T-3 Amp Range: 1.3 – 4.5 amps
In that thread the OP was having the same issue you're having - board was reading a salt level different from the water tests.

www.inyopools.com

Aqua rite salt reading

My aqua rite generator is showing a reading of 2000ppm while pool store reading is 3500. I have cleaned the cell 2x. The cell was replaced 1 year ago and the large circuit board was replaced at the same time. The display board was not replaced. The “low salt” light is on and there is no chlorine...
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

If you end up having to buy a new board, the newer versions have a firmware setting for the cell type - no jumper on the board. It's one of the options when you press the diagnostics button in the later versions of firmware.
 
TwentyYears said:
Second what JamesW said. Short wire to jumper the two and then see what happens.

The amp/voltage readings should be different for the T15. I just checked mine and it's at 25.2v, 5.99a.

Here's what the board manual says:

2. Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 30-35V)
3. Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps)

From the inyo pools site, the amperage ranges for the different cells:
  • T-15 Amp Range: 3.1 – 8.0 amps
  • T- 9 Amp Range: 2.3 – 6.7 amps
  • T-5 Amp Range: 1.9 – 5.7 amps
  • T-3 Amp Range: 1.3 – 4.5 amps
In that thread the OP was having the same issue you're having - board was reading a salt level different from the water tests.

www.inyopools.com

Aqua rite salt reading

My aqua rite generator is showing a reading of 2000ppm while pool store reading is 3500. I have cleaned the cell 2x. The cell was replaced 1 year ago and the large circuit board was replaced at the same time. The display board was not replaced. The “low salt” light is on and there is no chlorine...
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

If you end up having to buy a new board, the newer versions have a firmware setting for the cell type - no jumper on the board. It's one of the options when you press the diagnostics button in the later versions of firmware.
Click to expand...

Does the model number or the photo of the main board reveal when it was manufactured?
With a TCELL-15 from 2010 but a board that is only configured for TCELL-5 I'm wondering if this was a DIY SWG project.
(There is also the Oxidizer that has a huge hole rusted through it that isn't hooked up that i'm not messing with at all.)
But it's hard to imagine that with a 30k gallon pool that anyone would recommend TCELL-5 (20k gallons) for this pool.
And Pool math is telling me that the TCELL-15 running 100% for 5 pump hours would only raise my FC by 1.1

Anyway, I'll work on getting that jumper closed and report back. We could still have a bad cell, but if that is the case I'll still be into this a lot less than starting from scratch.
(Have replaced the flow sensor and display board already.)
 
MattyJ said:
Blue Haven Pools was the installer of this pool and the timeframe matches.
Any clue why a T-5 would have been chosen for a pool of this size? Were the larger cells not available at that time?
Click to expand...

Lack of clue?

My SWG original installation was marketed as a "Mineral Springs" product. It took me a couple of years to discover it was a re-branded Hayward Aqua-Rite and I was paying an awful lot of money for 40lb bags of salt with a nice logo. Once I figured that out I came to realize that the folks I was paying to maintain my pool had only a little more knowledge than I did on how the pool actually functioned.

We've had our pool for 11 years now and I wish I had found this site 10 years ago. It would have saved a many hours of browsing the internet figuring out how the different components and chemicals work to get to a functional swimming pool.

I'm also a new user to TFP but note that the folks and advice here can shortcut years of trial and error and get you right to the heart of your pool issues.

All that's just to say there's a lot of bad information out there and a lot of it comes from the pool industry itself.
 
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TwentyYears said:
Once I figured that out I came to realize that the folks I was paying to maintain my pool had only a little more knowledge than I did on how the pool actually functioned.
Click to expand...

I totally agree.. I've absorbed a lot of information in a short period of time and it has all been gold. I'm too established in my own career to think about a pool service (even as a side hustle), but maybe I'll pass this knowledge along to my young sons when they are old enough and they can take over the local market. :)
 
You can probably easy-mode the jumper with the copper paint you get at the auto-parts store for rear windshield defroster repair.

Otherwise you just need a hot iron and some Flux. Get both pads wet with solder, add a bit of solder, and move the iron between the two and lift up. Solder flows to the heat so by moving your iron midway between the two points before lifting you should be able to create a bridge.

Put something like a sheet of damp cardboard under the area you're working on so if a ball of solder falls it doesn't go behind another component and short it out.
 
I just performed possibly the worst solder job in the history of man... but here are my new diagnostic numbers!

2900
80
26.0
6.08
100P
-2900
AL-0
r1.40

Actual Salinity tested yesterday was 3000
Cell voltage looks to be slightly high right?

Is my next step to test to see if we are actually producing FC?

PoolMath says for 5 hours at 100% I would raise my FC by ~ 1.1
If I test tomorrow morning before I start my pump run for 5 hours and then again afterward would that work?
Should I do it overnight instead?

Excited that we got this far... have my fingers crossed that we can put it in use!!!
 
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Those numbers look good. It's working correctly and generating chlorine.

Divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to get how well the cell is performing. 2,900 ÷ 3,000 = 97%.

Good job. :goodjob:
 
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Great news. Looks like you just saved yourself ~$200 for a new board.

Chlorine production is going to vary based on the amount of salt (PPM), the efficiency of the cell, and other variables (chlorine loss to UV, CYA level, etc).

I wouldn't worry about the voltage - you've got it cranked up to 100%.

The best way to understand your chlorine production is to get the chemical mix right, then just test over time, you'll get a feel for where to set the percentage knob to keep things stable.

Your salt level shouldn't fluctuate much. You only lose salt by draining off water. Evaporation removes water and marginally increases the salt PPM but will drop back when you add water. If your water level is where it should be, with a 30K gal pool you could add another bag to get it up around 3200 or just leave it where it is. Most SWG want between 2700 and 3400 ppm so you're good at 3000.

I drain about 5000 gal off my 25K gal. pool when I winterize each year and end up adding ~7 bags of salt in the spring when I open/fill it. Like most pool chemicals, it's best to sneak up to it - if the tables say to add 280 lbs (7 bags) of salt, add 5 bags at first and see what the test says.
 
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Tested this morning at 07:00 am

FC 3.6
CC 0.0
pH 7.8
SALT 3000

Ran the Pump / SWG for 5 hours with SWG at 100%

PoolMath says I should have added 1.2 ppm FC but I don't know how accurate my pool volume calculation is.
I only added 480 lbs of salt to get from 200 ppm to 3000 ppm and pool math said I should have needed 715 lbs to get that concentration

Testing at 12:27 pm (turned the SWG off at 12:00)

FC 4.2
CC 0.0

So it looks like we are in business!
I'll keep it at 5 hours 100% SWG and keep monitoring my FC to see where we go.
 
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TwentyYears said:
Great news. Looks like you just saved yourself ~$200 for a new board.
Click to expand...

Not only that, but I didn't have to replace the TCELL-15.
I speculate that the original system was installed in 2006 with a TCELL-5 (as the board was configured that way) and when it reached end of life, the owner "up-sized" to the TCELL-15 which then didn't work with the board. I'm guessing they abandoned using the SWG at that point. The house changed hands and the second owner only used pucks. We even had a "pool inspection" by a local pool business and they said the SWG doesn't work and would likely cost $600 - $1000 to get it running. They recommended abandoning it.

I just might have a 96% efficiency cell that was manufactured in 2010 because it was never really used. :)

TFP to the rescue!!!
 
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I'm continuing on the SWG journey here, trying to find my way with how long to run the SWG.
I doubt I'll ever run the pump MORE than the SWG and so I have the SWG set at 100%.

If you look at my logs I ran my Pump/SWG a total of 10 hours yesterday because my FC wasn't keeping up.
Running it 8 hours today to see how that goes.

For those of you in sunny / hot climates, are you having similar experience?
I'm still watching closely because my Cell is old, but apparently mostly unused as the Instant Salinity / Actual Salinity showed 96% efficiency.
I have no warning lights and Volts / Amps look to be in the expected ranges.
 
In your area I would set your SWCG to create 4 ppm FC daily and see if the FC rises. Then cut back from there.
 

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