Ok, compare the instant salinity to the actual salinity. If they match, all is well.
I did the process to reset the average salinity reading and it came back with 1600 which then turned on the Low Salt indicator solid (not generating).
Ok, compare the instant salinity to the actual salinity. If they match, all is well.
You need to know the actual salinity to know if the instant salinity is accurate.
What are the first four characters of the cell serial number?
3 means 3 year warranty. E means cell. 10 means made in 2010.
At 9 years old, I suspect that the cell is probably bad.
The instant salinity divided by the actual salinity will tell you how well the cell is performing.
For example, if the actual salinity is 3,400 and the instant salinity is 2,600, the cell is performing at about 76%.
Below 75% and I would say that you need a new cell.
Just for context, my pool has not been maintained as a SWG pool for several years. I purchased the home this year and took over the maintenance myself.That doesn't seem correct. How are you testing?
The instant salinity is not going to be higher than actual unless you have the wrong cell.
Can you post all of the diagnostic readings?
Can you post all of the diagnostic readings?
You may have noticed from the earlier posts in the thread that my CYA is really high.Ok, get the actual salinity to about 3,200 ppm and then recheck the readings.
Take the hose that you using to drain the water and fill a 5 gallon bucket while you time it. That you can convert to gallons per minute.