Drained Due to CH Pushing 1000ppm..

While we remove the scale from the surface I want to get ready to fill the pool back up as soon as practicable as it is getting warm in these parts and It's going to be time to swim soon! I'll check again but last I checked my fill water was around 230ppm CH, FC less than 1, neutral pH and of course no CyA. I'll need to test for TA (and CH again) but haven't tested the fill water as I'm out of reagent for TA right now. I assume it is probably low but really need to know..

That said, I'm thinking I should balance TA First Then pH followed by liquid chlorine to bring up the FC to 6ppm and powdered CyA to 80ppm. Then add salt to get the SWG running pretty much in the first day or two. I assume there'll be some calcite granules left in the pool and the fill water is only slightly on the low side so I will balance that last not wanting to end up adding calcium only to have to do a partial drain and refill right away to get that under control.
 

Get some TA reagent.
Start out with 60 CYA...then raise from there.
Let salt circulate for 24 hours before turning on the SWG.
Do you have your "top up" or autofill on a water softener? That would keep your CH down. (You can't fill a pool with water softener, but replacement/top up water on softener works great to keep your CH Down).
 
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Get some TA reagent.
Start out with 60 CYA...then raise from there.
Let salt circulate for 24 hours before turning on the SWG.
Do you have your "top up" or autofill on a water softener? That would keep your CH down. (You can't fill a pool with water softener, but replacement/top up water on softener works great to keep your CH Down).
I'll follow those instructions. All the reagents I need are on their way right now so that's covered!

My AutoFill is piped to the water softener. A couple of things.. At first my pool plumber did not follow my instructions and connected it to the "raw" water pipe going into the water softener. I corrected this relatively quickly but CH was already in the 450 range. Then there was that time that the softener was not working correctly. After that the CH rose again but even after I fixed the water softener CH continued to rise.

I probably should have done this last year to when the CH was still below 800 but I didn't. Trust me, I was always pushing for a CSI below -0.3 but the acid demand was crazy intense.

I know that SWG's can cause pH rise but I'm perplexed as to the source of the CH rise. I still do need to do a test on the scaling crystals. Maybe their Sodium Carbonate??
 
Okay, so I'll not address TA just yet but start with sanitation (Chlorine and CyA). After that I'll lower pH and keep TA at zero for a bit. This should help remove any remaining crystals from the surface and bring the CH up from the fill water value.
 
The reason is I don't want to add baking soda first as I was initially thinking I'd do. I want to see where the CH lands after filling the pool and see how smooth it actually is on the surface. I'm not talking about keeping it this way. I'm talking about the order of adjustments in the first day or two max. I'll bring it up after stabilizing CH and checking for roughness. I may want to run it low at first but not for long at all. This will give me a low CSI to start which I'll slowly bring up above -0.6 then try to keep it in the -0.6 to -0.3 range.

I want to do this in baby steps to avoid going too far one way or the other but this isn't a long term level for sure.
 

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Have you tested your pool fill water for TA? I doubt it will be zero.
There are no reasons, and you don't want to run your TA at zero. For any period of time. 50 is the minimum. Low pH really damages equipment.
Running your CSI on the low side (-.6) will slowly reduce any remaining.
 
Have you tested your pool fill water for TA? I doubt it will be zero.
There are no reasons, and you don't want to run your TA at zero. For any period of time. 50 is the minimum. Low pH really damages equipment.
Running your CSI on the low side (-.6) will slowly reduce any remaining.
I'll test it as soon as the reagent arrives!
I'll go slow with adding the baking soda but I suppose I can lower it with MA if needed.
 
Your fill water is likely mostly, or all, Colorado River water. The TA of that water is 130 ppm. The CH is 250 ppm.
 
Fill Water:

==========================================
Coventry
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 11000 gallons
Chemistry: SWG
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 0.0 (6 minutes ago)
CC: 0.0 (6 minutes ago)
pH: 8.2 (6 minutes ago)
TA: 120 (6 minutes ago)
CH: 225 (6 minutes ago)
CYA: 0 (6 minutes ago)
SALT: 0 (6 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 60° (6 minutes ago)
CSI: 0.58 (6 minutes ago)
==========================================

I did not test for CyA.

pH and TA is remarkably high.

I'm going to bring a sample to the jobber pool store nearby to test for metals.
 
I was out of Taylor reagent for CH but got this from one of the operators before I retired from the water district in December 2024.

It reads grains per gallon and multiplying by 17.1 yields ppm which came out to 205ppm. I rounded up to 225ppm.IMG_6790.jpeg
 
Best for you and your CSI issue is to lower your TA and manage pH to avoid the scale again. Also ensure that your autofill softener is working...

With high TA fill water, this may help.

 
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There probably was a residual chlorine of 0.5ppm or less in the distribution system but the sample was allowed to sit for an hour or so. The reading was 0.0ppm.
 
Best for you and your CSI issue is to lower your TA and manage pH to avoid the scale again. Also ensure that your autofill softener is working...

With high TA fill water, this may help.

Yup. MA to pH of 7.2.

Aerate.

(Rinse and) repeat.

I found a while ago that the aeration wasn't really necessary because a daily run of the SWG over the waterfall and spa spill would push pH up naturally but for startup I'll do it.
 
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