Brand New Pool Cloudy— Help I’m Desperate!
- Thread starter Royaloaker
- Start date
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Everything is fine.
My point is that swimming and sun consumes FC. You started the day at 6.5, and just now tested 3.6. 3.6 is below minimums and is asking for algae. You need to keep your FC in range for your CYA (the chart), and here. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
You can either raise your FC before swim, say 2ppm above the top of the range, or you can test during the swim and add chlorine to stay in range during the swim.
What you did just now is fine. You tested and dosed 19oz to get to 6, saw my message and dosed to get to 8 FC. That is great.
You will find the same with the cell. Some % and runtime will maintain your FC. When you swim and have sun, you need to turn the cell up.
^^^This make sense? @Royaloaker
My point is that swimming and sun consumes FC. You started the day at 6.5, and just now tested 3.6. 3.6 is below minimums and is asking for algae. You need to keep your FC in range for your CYA (the chart), and here. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
You can either raise your FC before swim, say 2ppm above the top of the range, or you can test during the swim and add chlorine to stay in range during the swim.
What you did just now is fine. You tested and dosed 19oz to get to 6, saw my message and dosed to get to 8 FC. That is great.
You will find the same with the cell. Some % and runtime will maintain your FC. When you swim and have sun, you need to turn the cell up.
^^^This make sense? @Royaloaker
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
On the CYA.
It can show up in the test in 12 hours. Sometimes takes 24-48. Anytime you raise CYA, and are going to add more, wait 48 hours to do another test to confirm results, before adding more.
^^^This make sense?
It can show up in the test in 12 hours. Sometimes takes 24-48. Anytime you raise CYA, and are going to add more, wait 48 hours to do another test to confirm results, before adding more.
^^^This make sense?
Yes, but I don’t understand what to do now. I’m waiting til Thurs to check CYA again? Also, am I adding salt based on both hot tub size and pool size? To get to 3200 for the pool only, it says I need four 40 lb bags + another 31 lbs. should I just add 5 bags?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Tuesday is fine.
Do you mix the pool and the spa water? If so, dose for the total. Split it into the same sizes. If your pool is 7500 and your spa is 2500gal, then 3/4 goes in the pool 1/4 goes into the spa.
If the waters don't mix, then you need to add appropriate salt to each.
That would be ok... Remind me the range for your cell?
They’re separate. Range is 2700-3400 (3200 ideal). I just realized I only have 5 bags of the good stuff (builder left 2 bags of “Pro’s Pick Quick Dissolve Plus” that I don’t want to use. So i was planning on doing 4 (40 lb) bags + another 30 lbs in pool and then 10 lbs in the spa?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
it’ll be close. It said 191 lbs for pool, and I’ll add 190. Said 12 lbs for spa and I’ll add 10. Can get more tomorrow.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yes, automated. I can set schedules. Was originally told to run spa 1-2 hours/day and pool the rest. It’s one or the other.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Can I turn on the chlorinator now? I’ve heard 12 hours ok but maybe I should wait 24?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
What is your salt test result?
Sure, go ahead and turn it on. Are you going to run the pump 24x7 on low speed, say 50% speed?
If you have it setup for 24 hours, try running your spa for 2 hours, SWG on 10% (this should add 3.1FC to the spa, and pool for 22 hours and cell output at 15%, this should add 3.2FC to the pool.
Test your FC now, turn on the schedule above, and see where you end up tonight.
"Effects of Adding" in pool math will allow you to replicate these numbers.
Sure, go ahead and turn it on. Are you going to run the pump 24x7 on low speed, say 50% speed?
If you have it setup for 24 hours, try running your spa for 2 hours, SWG on 10% (this should add 3.1FC to the spa, and pool for 22 hours and cell output at 15%, this should add 3.2FC to the pool.
Test your FC now, turn on the schedule above, and see where you end up tonight.
"Effects of Adding" in pool math will allow you to replicate these numbers.
I’m at work but I can turn in from remotely. If you think it’s best to test salt & chlorine before I turn on, I’ll just wait.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,162
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Tomato, Tomaaahto. Likely won't matter.
I'd wait for two reasons. One, good to have a baseline on both (salt/FC) and confirm salt before firing up. Also good to be home when you fire it up to confirm it turns on an is working the way you expect. Might be something else messed up by the builder. Like to confirm it is working and valves are programmed correctly too.
Spencer2024
Gold Supporter
- Jun 4, 2024
- 52
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Look at that water!!!!!!Lil Wybie (our WYBOT) doing a good job for us!!
Spencer2024
Gold Supporter
- Jun 4, 2024
- 52
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I hope beverages were enjoyed in significant quantities yesterday!Last week at this time, I was wondering how the heck y'all did it.
Hi! In my humble opinion, I think there are two many variables being thrown at you. It is enough to send anyone in a tail spin! Keep in mind, when it comes to pools - most fixes are not immediate. Whether it is because of algie, or some other issue, it may take days or even weeks to resolve. Here is my advice:
1. You have a good test kit...so that is step one. However, I only see one test over the past week or so that was somewhat comprehensive. Everything else is only focused on FC (for the most part). Granted FC is important, but not the only variable. keep in mind, a fix on one may increase/decrease other things like PH and ALK - which can all result in cloudy pools.
2. Take a complete daily test reading and report: FC, CC, PH, ALK, CH and CYA. Salt - you can probably get away with testing once a week or even less frequently unless you are having a ton of rain and overflow - no reason for salt to be dropping much at this point.
3. I would continue to take daily readings of ALL items for at least a month so that you can familiarize yourself with "normal" readings. Each persons pool is slightly different. My pool may tend to read a little high on PH versus someone (even my next door neighbors) pool. Therefore, it is important to get the gauge of your pool.
4. After the full reading is taken. Start by reviewing FC / CC. If your FC is around 9 for SWG, but you have a CC of 1 (or more) - you have algie that is eating the chlorine. Ideally, you should not have more than .5 CC. If your CC is 1 or greater, you need to follow the SLAM process. Also - FC at this time of year will deplete really fast. For example - I live in Texas. Pretty consistent 100 degree days. I have an SWG. My FC will typically drop about 3 per day. Oh - actually that is something to check. Make sure that your SWG is rated for approximately 2X the size of your pool. For example - 7500 pool, you want an SWG that can handle about twice that volume.
5. Once your FC and CC are in line with recommended levels. I would then focus on PH. While you can rely on PoolMath as a general guide, I would also look at the Taylor test kit on how much acid to add if needed. Until you have a feel for your pool - I would recommend adding about half the amount of acid that is being recommended. Come back in an hour - retest - and then add the remaining half if needed.
6. After your FC/CC/PH are in line. Now it is time to focus on Alk. Decrease or increase as needed.
7. Finally - your CYA. This is fairly easy to change. Just get stabilizer in the pool section of walmart. It is much easier to add CYA than to take out - so using the acid example - I always add 1/2 the recommended amount and then add more as needed.
If you follow these steps - I think you will see by the time you hit step 4 or 5 - your pool should be pretty clear. I have only been taking care of my pool for this season, but I can honestly say it is FAR better than the pool service did. Also - don't go to the pool store for advice from the "experts" -typically they will tell you your phosphates are high and try to sell you a bunch of BS chemicals!
1. You have a good test kit...so that is step one. However, I only see one test over the past week or so that was somewhat comprehensive. Everything else is only focused on FC (for the most part). Granted FC is important, but not the only variable. keep in mind, a fix on one may increase/decrease other things like PH and ALK - which can all result in cloudy pools.
2. Take a complete daily test reading and report: FC, CC, PH, ALK, CH and CYA. Salt - you can probably get away with testing once a week or even less frequently unless you are having a ton of rain and overflow - no reason for salt to be dropping much at this point.
3. I would continue to take daily readings of ALL items for at least a month so that you can familiarize yourself with "normal" readings. Each persons pool is slightly different. My pool may tend to read a little high on PH versus someone (even my next door neighbors) pool. Therefore, it is important to get the gauge of your pool.
4. After the full reading is taken. Start by reviewing FC / CC. If your FC is around 9 for SWG, but you have a CC of 1 (or more) - you have algie that is eating the chlorine. Ideally, you should not have more than .5 CC. If your CC is 1 or greater, you need to follow the SLAM process. Also - FC at this time of year will deplete really fast. For example - I live in Texas. Pretty consistent 100 degree days. I have an SWG. My FC will typically drop about 3 per day. Oh - actually that is something to check. Make sure that your SWG is rated for approximately 2X the size of your pool. For example - 7500 pool, you want an SWG that can handle about twice that volume.
5. Once your FC and CC are in line with recommended levels. I would then focus on PH. While you can rely on PoolMath as a general guide, I would also look at the Taylor test kit on how much acid to add if needed. Until you have a feel for your pool - I would recommend adding about half the amount of acid that is being recommended. Come back in an hour - retest - and then add the remaining half if needed.
6. After your FC/CC/PH are in line. Now it is time to focus on Alk. Decrease or increase as needed.
7. Finally - your CYA. This is fairly easy to change. Just get stabilizer in the pool section of walmart. It is much easier to add CYA than to take out - so using the acid example - I always add 1/2 the recommended amount and then add more as needed.
If you follow these steps - I think you will see by the time you hit step 4 or 5 - your pool should be pretty clear. I have only been taking care of my pool for this season, but I can honestly say it is FAR better than the pool service did. Also - don't go to the pool store for advice from the "experts" -typically they will tell you your phosphates are high and try to sell you a bunch of BS chemicals!