Aqualink Setup Assist

[flipfloplife2]

Hello, new to the forum. I have a pool going in right now. I have the following already installed (all Jandy branded):

- Jandy VSFloPro — VSFHP130DVS — 1.3 HP pump
- TruClear 11k — salt chlorinator kit
- CS Series cartridge filter — CS200
- 3x 12w LED Nichless light, model JLU4C12W100
- blower (the guy forgot it, that should happen today)

The pool is quite small compared to a lot of you --- 5000 gallons give or take. It never freezes where I am. There are also permitting issues where I am, so the pad you see will potentially not be the final install location (certainly not final pad size). I am comfortable with wiring and plumbing but at a pretty busy time in life. I have a Home Assistant instance running and can usually bend that to my will (usually).

The install is ongoing (my yard is a disaster). The guy doing the equipment install is friendly enough, there is a bit of a language barrier (my spanish gets me taco's and a beer and that's it). He did label the lines for me which I appreciate. I have not pressed to test yet if they would sell me equipment on the side. The overall pool installer doesn't seem to care much about specific equipment and initial probing about automation lead to a simple, "welllllll, you can make all kinds of fancy automation and I think it's another $5k, those guys can work that out but it isn't that hard and you don't need to do that." I respect his opinion, but i'm also a big fan of automation.

Issue 1: I will be putting in a heater/chiller on this installation -- looks like Jandy sells a VersaTemp heat pump type unit -- I have 220 to the yard, this doesn't seem hard. Trying to figure out how to buy that heat pump for a self install later has proved a bit of a challenge. Does Jandy have a policy against them selling me this gear for a self install? Is there a secret code to get around that?

Issue 2: I am considering an "auto acid dumper via tank and peristaltic pump" situation. I haven't found Jandy's turnkey solution to that yet but I feel like something like that probably already exists. There are a fair number of folks who have home-brewed this up, I'm not sure I'm that smart or have that kind of time. Is this worth it to either home-brew something here or just use Jandy's solution --- or is this just, "It's not that hard man, do the testing, add what needs added, don't overthink it"?

Issue 3: I am considering a Jandy RS Aqualink setup but couldn't be more confused on what exactly it takes to GET that set up. All my equipment says "Aqualink Compatible" on the various boxes and manuals but I'm having a devil of a time finding specific installation instructions. I did go through the Aqualink Wiki here and while helpful, I still don't have a grasp of exactly what equipment is needed to get that all going. I sort of get the feeling that Jandy doesn't want me to know, that they want a "qualified installer" to do that. Which I might do -- but I would like to know specific equipment requirements, performance expectations and cost. (and I am interested in self install if I can just get all the kit and have a solid enough grasp of what exactly needs done). Jandy seems to want it's own PowerCenter (which seems an overpriced breaker box, with another side for low voltage and relays) -- then I am pretty confused about the most recent version of a control panel (one touch, buttons, tablet) --- and there is a wifi antenna for another $350 (e-bay). I am pretty confused with all that. Can't seem to source the valve actuators -- seems like Jandy only sells the relays and not much specific info on that either. Getting a handle on all that's involved here would help me make a solid decision on if I can get the parts (or parts that will work fine) and do the install myself --- or, if it's worth it to let the pool equipment company do it --- or if it's best to leave it for now and home-brew ALL of this up later (if at all).

Issue 4: Pretty far rocks at this point -- I know that the Home Assistant community has an AqualinkD integration to get the pool integrated w/ the rest of the house. Has anyone used this? The Pentair guys seem to have pretty smooth sailing but it seems that Jandy has potentially wandered far enough from the 485 standards to make this difficult? This is pretty far rocks, but if there are things I could do now to ensure a complete functionality later then I would likely do them.

This forum seems fantastic -- I have already learned an incredible amount -- there are some remarkably deep rabbit holes to fall down -- and you guys have some FANTASTIC pools. So thanks for that already!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Do you have a spa? I see one of your return lines labeled SPA but no spa suction line.

Jandy is the most DIY hostile of the major pool equipment manufacturers. They have banned all of their equipment from being sold on the Internet and you get no warranty as a retail buyer.

You mention valve actuators but your builder did not use diverter valves that actuators go on top of.

We discourage the use of ball valves that you have as they stick and break in a few years and are not repairable.

Actuators are readily available from Jandy and other manufacturers. They are not going to be the problem getting to where you want to go.

 

[flipfloplife2]

Allen -- there is no spa, but there is a blower that connects to 4 jets on one side of the pool - like a bench of massagey bubbles? I think it got labelled that way because the functionality is that of a spa (?). Single pool -- 18'x10' with a small "tanning ledge" to make it an L shape. The one labelled fountain plumbs to a fountainy light situation in the sunning ledge area. Again -- communication isn't easy here -- I'd like a pool, this guy builds nice pools and our options are VERY limited here --- i'm going to take what they do and smile and be happy ... and theeeen just do what i want once they leave. here's a pic from yesterday --- the stone/tile is almost done now.



re: Jandy being DIY hostile --- sure seems that way trying to get technical documentation on the internet, old links have been taken down, etc. But from your statement it sounds like i should be able to PURCHASE what i need -- but no warranty -- and I'll have to drive there in the truck --- fair enough, at least that is a path forward.

Agreed on the long term of ball valves --- it's what they did and I'm trying to not fornicate their process. I'm going to have to do some homework and learn about these diverter valves. I had already anticipated doing some re-plumbing ----- just trying to avoid buying twice where i can. are they a "standard" thing or do i have to get specific ones "jandy" branded? (tabs opening to do the homework...)

 

[ajw22]

You will end up rebuilding most of your pool equipment pad and some of your electrical to put in Aqualink controls, a Heat Pump, and other stuff.

Your concrete equipment pad is too small to add a HP, acid tank, and other stuff. You have a rinky dink too small filter that all FL builders seem to use. You need to replace some or all of your ball valves with diverter valves. Some of your electrical will need to be redone to get your light controls and blower wired into the Aqualink.

You can get just about all the Jandy equipment you want from...

Jandy AquaLink Power Centers

Jandy Controls

You can configure an Aqualink RS system without the breaker subpanel if you have a separate breaker subpanel although it is cleaner to have an integrated load center. This Selection Guide attached to this post takes you through the menu of Aqualink components you can choose from - https://cdn.fluidrausa.com/-/media/...tion.pdf?rev=aeabf69890ea492d9e7b87d688e35e48

You want the Aqualink RS with IQ30 web-connect and a Power Center without the breaker subpanel. No one gets the control pads anymore unless you really want one in which case get the One Touch.

If you want links to any specific equipment just ask here.

 

[ajw22]

are they a "standard" thing or do i have to get specific ones "jandy" branded? (tabs opening to do the homework...)

Valves - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

BTW, there is no reason you need to get a Jandy heat pump. Look at the heat pumps that Aquacal or Built Right have.

Pool Heat Pumps | AquaCal | Source Pumps

AquaCal products for your pool and spa, including heaters, water chillers, source heat pumps and commercial pool heaters.

www.aquacal.com

Better Than the Competition – Built Right Pool Heaters

builtrightpoolheaters.com

AquaCal Heat Pumps - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[flipfloplife2]

Allen, fantastic info --- i owe you several beers.

I completely realize that I'll be re-doing the pool equipment pad - i should have lead with that. I'm not scared of that --- the whole yard comes up over a foot next week -- so that rinky dink thing they have setup isn't going to cut it (too small, ridiculously not hurricane proof, etc) --- i think they do that to get through the inspection(?). There is repeated inference to "before" and "after" inspection. I already have a sub-panel to the backyard and have a real electrician (easy to communicate with) who is going to wire the pool (and boat lift) next week --- so as long as i have a plan for him he'll do whatever I ask. I think I'll just have him put a "pool panel" for the high voltage portion, then plan on putting in my own "low voltage" panel nex to it / near it and re-do the pad and equipment myself.

Nuts on the filter -- what size should it be? Is it a "fix it soonest" or a "see how it goes" situation on that?

Did NOT realize I could use a different brand heater and still have it work in the Jandy Ecosystem of automation. Do you have a recommend here? My brother (down the street) says he does run his chiller in the summer, and heater in the winter (and before you make fun, yes - i wear a wetsuit from sept to april in the 66-71 deg ocean!).

So the list for me to be in the magical Aqualink with control via webpage/phone:
- System Board: I'd need an RS-PS8 to control "pump, heater, & 7 aux" (for pump, heater, lights and 6 total valves?) -- i may be mis-reading this --- and i don't know what JVA's are in the far right column.
- Interface: I would need the iQ30-A.
- Power Center: I would need the PureLink Power Center for Automation and Saltwater Chlorination 6613AP (with 2 extra relays --- 6 valves total if i'm counting correctly).
- Lastly the TruClear 11k (already on site).
- In addition to that Jandy stuff I'd need 6x actuators for use with the diverter valves (in homework on those, new area for me, thanks for the link).

Does that smell about right?

The acid dispenser (far rocks, i get it, but if i don't plan it in i could be upset w/ myself) has a Jandy solution called TruDose. This seems to not mention an acid tank. It also mentions that it "*Works with Jandy Aquapure Salt Chlorinator only". I have the TruClear 11k. Could be that's outdated data on their spec sheet. This could also be a place that (like the heater) I could go outside the Jandy ecosystem? There are some homebrew solutions here that seem to work well ----- buuuuut those projects where you're the test dummy can sometimes end up ... well, putting in a lot more than you thought you would.

 

[ajw22]

The only things that commit you to Jandy at this time are the pump and the SWG. You can sell those and get most of your money back. And you would want to change out your Jandy lights before they are installed.

I think long term you will be happier with a Pentair IntelliCenter, Intelliflo3 pump, IntelliChlor or iChor SWG, and UltraTemp Heat pump.

The IntelliCenter is modular for upgrades, gets over the air firmware updates from Pentair, Pentair is actively updating their equipment, has a color touch screen display on the outdoor panel, can be programmed and fully controlled from the outdoor panel, and has better support.

The Aqualink has no outdoor display panel, cannot be programmed from the outdoor panel, firmware up[dates require board replacement, and you cannot fully control everything from the outdoor panel.

I already have a sub-panel to the backyard and have a real electrician (easy to communicate with) who is going to wire the pool (and boat lift) next week --- so as long as i have a plan for him he'll do whatever I ask. I think I'll just have him put a "pool panel" for the high voltage portion, then plan on putting in my own "low voltage" panel nex to it / near it and re-do the pad and equipment myself.

I would decide if you want to go the Aqualink or the IntelliCenter direction and hand your electrician the panel with the Load Center breakers in it. Your electrician runs a 60A - 100A circuit to the Aqualink/IntelliCenter and then wires all the pool equipment into that box. It gives you a much cleaner installation and you don't then need to update the electrical much.

The HP does not need to be powered from the Aqualink/IntelliCenter panel and your electrician should provision for a separate 50A/60A HP circuit from your backyard subpanel.

Also you can put in an IntelliCenter for the electrical wiring now and run it with your Jandy pump and SWG. You just will control the pump and SWG through their own control panels until you swap in compatible Pentair equipment. That is what you would do anyway with your current setup.

Nuts on the filter -- what size should it be? Is it a "fix it soonest" or a "see how it goes" situation on that?

You can see how it goes. You want a 400+sq ft cartridge filter. About twice the size of what you have. There is no too large filter and the larger the filter the less often you need to crack it open and clean the cartridges.

Did NOT realize I could use a different brand heater and still have it work in the Jandy Ecosystem of automation. Do you have a recommend here? My brother (down the street) says he does run his chiller in the summer, and heater in the winter (and before you make fun, yes - i wear a wetsuit from sept to april in the 66-71 deg ocean!).

What equipment and automation does your brother have?

Depending on your electrical cost using a HP as a chiller can be expensive.

Some Aquacal HP models have their SMART Controller that include controllers with RS485 communication protocol like the Pentair IntelliCenter®, Pentair EasyTouch®, Pentair IntelliTouch®, Jandy AquaLink®, etc.

SMART Controllers

All the automation companies have had challenges making heater/chillers automatically switch modes and work well. Some will heat well under automation and you have to change to a manual mode for the chiller. Some companies are still working on trying to get things to work smoother with HP heater/chillers and automation.

- System Board: I'd need an RS-PS8 to control "pump, heater, & 7 aux" (for pump, heater, lights and 6 total valves?) -- i may be mis-reading this --- and i don't know what JVA's are in the far right column.

We need to talk about why you think you need six actuators. A standard Aqualink system can only support 4 actuators. JVAs are the Jandy Actuators.

You don't need a PS8. You have a pool only and need a P8.

- Interface: I would need the iQ30-A.

Yes.

- Power Center: I would need the PureLink Power Center for Automation and Saltwater Chlorination 6613AP (with 2 extra relays --- 6 valves total if i'm counting correctly).

I think you already got a Power Center for your TruClear SWG. So you can wire that into the 6613 AquaLink Power Center for Automation Control Systems

- Lastly the TruClear 11k (already on site).

Yup.

- In addition to that Jandy stuff I'd need 6x actuators for use with the diverter valves (in homework on those, new area for me, thanks for the link).

You need to explain what you want each actuator to do.

The acid dispenser (far rocks, i get it, but if i don't plan it in i could be upset w/ myself) has a Jandy solution called TruDose. This seems to not mention an acid tank. It also mentions that it "*Works with Jandy Aquapure Salt Chlorinator only". I have the TruClear 11k. Could be that's outdated data on their spec sheet. This could also be a place that (like the heater) I could go outside the Jandy ecosystem? There are some homebrew solutions here that seem to work well ----- buuuuut those projects where you're the test dummy can sometimes end up ... well, putting in a lot more than you thought you would.

You should have got the AquPure if you really wanted the TruDose system.

We don't recommend automated probe driven chemical controllers role this. They are more trouble then they are worth.

Eqarly on you asked or is this just, "It's not that hard man, do the testing, add what needs added, don't overthink it"? Yes, it is not that hard. Live with the system for a year manually dosing acid and see how you feel. pH does not need to be held to a tight value. Anywhere in the 7's is equally good.

If you then want something automated people are pretty happy with a Stenner pump system that dispenses a fixed amount of acid on a timer.

Lots to think about. And more to read...

Equipment Pad Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pentair UltraTemp Heat Pump - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[flipfloplife2]

Allen, thanks again for a ton of info --- lot to digest. It was not clear to me at all that branding would be such a significant lock in to options, especially with automation. Your thoughts on acid dispensing are well taken -- i think that will just be a punt for me at least for now.

the system board is the first 30k view thing i still don't have sorted -- perhaps i am misunderstanding how the relays and actuators work in this context --- my understanding is that one would need a single relay paired w/ a single actuator per valve in the system ------ so 6 valves corresponds to 6 actuators and 6 relays ----- clearly I'm missing something on this point. This system doesn't seem terribly complex ---- i mean there's a variable speed pump, a swg, a blower, a filter and let's even count the heater/chiller plus 6 valves that occasionally need to be configured in different ways. i suppose that you really don't need to automate ALL of that (the configuration for backwash for example) --- it would be a solid argument to say that the only valve that really "needs" an everyday actuator is the fountain valve.

the other large scale thing i don't really get is what i "get" out of a power center. i mean ... it just looks like a sub box to me? Or an enclosure for low voltage wiring. seems like the system board is the brains here? what am i not getting to pushes us into having to specifically get a Jandy Power Center?

I suppose i could grab all the parts on e-bay and that would be me RS level Jandy Aqualink automation. Looks like around $1k if i take my time in acquisition.

Pentair seems a WHOLE lot more friendly to the DIY guy (which i usually am). frustrating to not understand the ramifications of letting the PB do my selection here...

Thanks so much for taking the time w/ me here on this.

 

[ajw22]

perhaps i am misunderstanding how the relays and actuators work in this context

Relays and actuators work independently.

Relays control 120V or 240V devices.

Actuators have separate sockets that they plug into to turn valves.

But...

--- my understanding is that one would need a single relay paired w/ a single actuator per valve in the system ------ so 6 valves corresponds to 6 actuators and 6 relays ----- clearly I'm missing something on this point.

Here is a key difference with Jandy Aqualink versus Pentair IntelliCenter.

With the Aqualink to control an actuator you need to associate it with a physical AUX button. That removes an AUX button for use with a relay. So while you buy an 8 AUX and relay system if you wanted 6 actuators you would only be able to control 2 relays. And the standard 8 relay Aqualink system only has 4 actuator sockets.

Pentair IntelliCenter allows you to create virtual circuits and buttons since it is all on touch screens with no physical buttons. And while the standard IntelliCenter card has 4 actuator sockets you can easily add a card for additional actuator sockets. There is much more flexibility in setting up relays, 120V and 240V devices, and actuators with an IntelliCenter.

This system doesn't seem terribly complex ---- i mean there's a variable speed pump, a swg, a blower, a filter and let's even count the heater/chiller plus 6 valves that occasionally need to be configured in different ways.

Your system is not complex until you get to the possibility of 6 actuators and how you want to control them. Then you may find the Aqualink very rigid as to what it will let you do.

i suppose that you really don't need to automate ALL of that (the configuration for backwash for example) --- it would be a solid argument to say that the only valve that really "needs" an everyday actuator is the fountain valve.

There is no reason to have backwash on an actuator. And you don't backwash a cartridge filter. So I am not sure what you think the valve is for.

the other large scale thing i don't really get is what i "get" out of a power center. i mean ... it just looks like a sub box to me? Or an enclosure for low voltage wiring. seems like the system board is the brains here? what am i not getting to pushes us into having to specifically get a Jandy Power Center?

The terse answer is it simplifies the wiring. Otherwise you can have a rats nest of conduits and wires from subpanels to relays and various low voltage wires from devices to boards.

While it may not be necessary now in a few years when you or someone needs to diagnose a problem in your system if all the wiring is done in a standard way in the Load Center it will be easier to understand then one off wiring created by your electrician.

We see a lot of automation panels here and see ones that are easy to follow because they followed standard wiring practices and ones that were electrician specials that all we can tell the person is get an electrician in to trace the way things are wired.

I suppose i could grab all the parts on e-bay and that would be me RS level Jandy Aqualink automation. Looks like around $1k if i take my time in acquisition.

I do not recommend buying this stuff on ebay. We see lots of folks who come here asking why things don't work and it ends up they got defective stuff on ebay. Also there is counterfeit non-oem stuff being sold as genuine on ebay.

Pentair seems a WHOLE lot more friendly to the DIY guy (which i usually am). frustrating to not understand the ramifications of letting the PB do my selection here...

Many folks have regretted letting their builder sell them Jandy equipment. You still have time to undo it.

 

[generessler]

Fwiw I inherited an Aqualink RS system with my house. Things I've learned:

I can verify the non-DIY friendliness of Jandy. Many parts seem incredibly overpriced. The on-line manuals are pretty complete, but there are some gaps. And they're all you have to work with.

Otoh it has mostly worked fine. The only serious problem I've had was the pro installer failing to make connections tight. Arcing burned up the pump relay circuit. New relay, new wiring (DIY), and back in business.

The app is 2000's tech. A kludgy hack job. (I'm a software engineer.) But once you're used to the quirks and 8 clicks needed where 2 should do, all good.

A pretty significant issue is that to control a SWCG with the app, it must be Jandy: AquaPure or your TruClear. These have a reputation for short life, low production rates, and replacement cells are at least as expensive as other brands. My AquaPure seems fine for my pool, though.

There are reports that Aqualink can't use all the features of recent Pentair VSF pumps. Check compatibility if you move away from Jandy. Jandy pumps don't seem to have a great reputation either btw. I have a 2-year-old Pentair Intelliflo VS (no F) that works great.

Good luck with it.

 

[HermanTX]

I suppose i could grab all the parts on e-bay and that would be me RS level Jandy Aqualink automation. Looks like around $1k if i take my time in acquisition

Do not purchase your Jandy products from eBay. Too many used or bad products.
Use one of the 2 companies noted in post #4.

I purchased from PolyTec my AquaPure SWCG (as I had a AquaLink automation system already installed). They are authorized reseller, call them to order (avoids the “online” purchase) and I used a “professional handyman” to assist me to install- therefore I registered for the full warranty on Jandy website.
While the AquaLink has it quirks, it is a workable automation system. I have used mine for over 15 yrs. I did upgrade to the newest PCB several years ago with the iQ30 antenna for internet access. Jandy has recently upgraded the PCB again so ensure you get the most recent version - rev. W and more recently Y. (It is noted on the chip of the PCB and on the box)

You have a fairly simple setup. You only have 1 body of water so the all you need is “P” not “PS” (which is Pool & Spa) PCB. You only need JVAs (Jandy Valve Actuator) on a couple of valves such as fountain and cleaner, for example. Not every valve needs an actuator . Also, I would remove all the ball valves and replace with Jandy diverter valves.

You may want to consider tying your skimmer and main drain together with a 3-way valve (can be manual as you do not need to change that often) and then put another 3-way valve between those and the cleaner suction. You can then put an actuator on top of that valve to automate switching between pool suction (MD and skimmer) and cleaner. See very crude drawing.

Also agree to increase the size of your cartridge filter. It shows now there is a tee’d line before the inlet of the filter that is marked “backwash” - that is really a drain line. That can be helpful.

 

[flipfloplife2]

Excellent point, in reality I have no idea what the backwash is for on this system. And now that you mention it -- seems to me that the only valves that would need to be on actuators are the fountain and the spa.

Given the idea I really don't need to control all 6 valves -- that means we just need to control:
- pump
- heater (as long as i get a jandy or 485 capable heater it will show and be controllable in the jandy app / alexa?)
- 2 x valves (with actuators, they will take up two "button" spots)
- chlorinator (unclear to me if that ever integrates fully w/ the separate control unit like i already have -- this could be the difference in the 6613 and the 6613AP?)
- lights (there are 3 of them -- do they each take up a relay or is this a separate plugin?)

i THINK this actually just leads us to a RS-P4 ? in fact we would have 2 more buttons we could use?

with the parts nailed down i can do a comparison between the cost of the rest of a jandy system versus a Pentair solution --- the apply a cost of annoyance for the jandy non-diy-friendliness.

 

[ajw22]

You need relays for the pump, blower, and lights.

Do you want the 3 lights on one control (relay) or on separate controls (relays)?

I would at least get a P6 if not a P8 so you have sone room for future needs.

Your Truclear chlorinator communicates with the Aqualink through a 2 wire RS-485 link you run between your existing SWG box and the Aqualink. See Jandy TruClear SWG - Further Reading

 

[HermanTX]

- chlorinator (unclear to me if that ever integrates fully w/ the separate control unit like i already have -- this could be the difference in the 6613 and the 6613AP?)

The 6613 is the cabinet with 4 HP relays and can hold up to 8. It does not have capability for circuit breakers so you need to have CB in another panel box. The 6613AP appears to include the transformer for the AquaPure SWCG. Since you already have the TruClear SWCG, did it come with its own control box? It is unclear how you have some equipment and not others if the PB was supplying it.

 

[ajw22]

Since you already have the TruClear SWCG, did it come with its own control box? It is unclear how you have some equipment and not others if the PB was supplying it.

Jandy Truclear system should come with this power pack that can have a RS-485 wire to the Aqualink.

Jandy TruClear SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[flipfloplife2]

I do have a control box for the TruClear 11k. I didn't understand that it would interface w/ a RS-485 link --- i thought i might need to get the 6613AP to get full integration. it is clear now -- sorry to add confusion.

I'm just trying to get all the specifics of what finishing off a jandy system off would be ---- versus going Pentair from "here" on out. have read enough "jandy horror posts" about not being able to get parts, no warranty for self install etc. so there is going to be a cost comparison, and a hassle comparison. i actually prefer doing the work myself (it may not be perfect, but it will be right). so i think i have nailed down what a jandy complete system would look like for me.

i have also priced out the pentair system as recommended (except lights, trying to sort that out).

my last option would be what Allen proposes as a hybrid system -- can i control jandy lights, pump and chlorinator from an intellicenter? at least enough to get things moving -- then as stuff breaks (or i lose my patience towards what should be baseline automation in 2023) i can replace things piece by piece w/ pentair. in other words --- can't have chlorinator or heat pump running w/o the pump going ----- will this be a function i could work into the intellicenter? or am i basically on timers and manual controls until i replace both the pump and the chlorinator w/ pentair intellicenter compatible gear? and lights -- they seem trivial - but they make kids and wives smile ---- especially when they can use their phones or alexa to make them do stuff. So how much COULD i get out of a hybrid setup? this would be potentially the least expensive for now and let me head towards an all pentair system.

are "all", "most", "some" third party heat pump heater/chillers rs-485 capable? A lot of them don't seem to mention it in their specs --- or is this "Hey man, just go with the darn UltraTemp if you're so concerned about complete automation"? My pool is just so darn small that it seems like I really don't need something huge here, feels like putting a 400hp outboard on a 17' boat...

you guys have been so great about answering (my dumb) questions as i try and sort all of this. i'm coming from such a place of ignorance that i can DO the research and not fully understand what i'm reading ---- then i get a nugget from you guys and i'm enlightened and go back and RE-READ the specs and install instructions on a couple different items with a bit more knowledge ... i do feel like i'm getting there.

 

[ajw22]

my last option would be what Allen proposes as a hybrid system -- can i control jandy lights, pump and chlorinator from an intellicenter? at least enough to get things moving -- then as stuff breaks (or i lose my patience towards what should be baseline automation in 2023) i can replace things piece by piece w/ pentair. in other words --- can't have chlorinator or heat pump running w/o the pump going ----- will this be a function i could work into the intellicenter?

If you install the IntelliCenter you let your Jandy pump and Truclear run independently programmed from the Pump control panel. The Truclear will talk to the pump via RS-485 and only run when the pump is on. Read Jandy TruClear SWG - Further Reading

or am i basically on timers and manual controls until i replace both the pump and the chlorinator w/ pentair intellicenter compatible gear?

Nope, you have a control system to set times and speeds to run the pump and SWG on the Pump control panel.

If you wanted separate remote app control of the Jandy pump you could get the Jandy iQPump01. It only costs $150 - $200.

iQPUMP01: Mobile Pump Controller | Jandy

Looking for the iQPUMP01? Find this Mobile Pump Controller for the Perfect Pool Experience. Buy Now w/ a Pool Pro Near You!

www.jandy.com

and lights -- they seem trivial - but they make kids and wives smile ---- especially when they can use their phones or alexa to make them do stuff.

For light controls on the IntelliCenter you need Pentair compatible lights. Jandy does have lights that are compatible with Pentair controls.

To understand what you light options are I suggest you review the JLU4C12W100 manual attached to this post. You will see it comes in different series which are compatible with different automation systems. The P-Series can work with both the Aqualink and IntelliCenter.

That is what you should get.

Inground Pool Light: Jandy HydroCool Light | Jandy

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are "all", "most", "some" third party heat pump heater/chillers rs-485 capable? A lot of them don't seem to mention it in their specs --- or is this "Hey man, just go with the darn UltraTemp if you're so concerned about complete automation"?

Different HP models have various RS-485 interfaces to automation and some have none. It varies model to model even within a manufacturer.

If you go IntelliCenter then get the Ultratemp. I think it will work the smoothest.

The Aquacal seems to have the best 3rd party automation interface if you don't do the Ultratemp.

The Jandy pump you have with the Truclear system will work alongside the IntelliCenter and the JLU4C12W100 P-Series lights. Or you can plug in the Aqualink to the same equipment.