An Inexplicable Loss of Water after EXTENSIVE pressure testing/liner scanning/everything!!! Please HELP!

26k Gallon Inground Pool, Latham Vinyl Liner (Newly Replaced in 2020), Hayward VS Pump, Hayward Heater, Hayward Sand Filter (Zeo Sand), Location is Suburbs of Chicago.

Ok, here goes nothing. I've lived in my house for 11 years. Initially had pool service, then learned all the chemistry and care techniques (from these forums) and have maintained, opened, closed, managed every part of my pool for the last 7 years. Brand new liner put in in spring of 2020. Everything working great and no problems at all for 3.5 years.

In Sept 2023, just before closing time, I noticed the pool was dropping a good amount of water. 1-2 inches every 3-4 days. I thought perhaps as the nights were getting cooler and the pool temp was warmer, it could be evaporation as usual, nothing to panic about. We left on a 7 day trip and returned home to find the pool water had dropped below the skimmer intakes (Yikes!).

I began a dozen or so bucket tests over the course of 2 weeks. Consistently found the water in the pool dropping 1-2 inches every 24-48 hours, while the bucket remained exactly where it was. This was not evaporation.

I hired a pool leak detection company. They used a number of tools. A digital float to confirm the water level was dropping, the hydrophones to scan all over the pool for leaks in the liner, we dye tested every fixture (pool lights, return lines, spa lines, spa intakes, skimmer baskets, every fiberglass spa/walk-in stair seam where the liner meets the fiberglass) no leaks detected. It was getting late into October now and I had to close the pool, so we decided to just do our typical winterizing (blow out all lines, plug returns, gizmo skimmers, air lock the main drain, etc). The water level stopped dropping and remained full all winter through to spring of 2024 (which confirmed there is no liner leak of any kind).

Open the pool here in may as usual. Water starts to drop again. Call another pool leak specialist company to do a full pressure testing of returns, skimmers, main drain, everything. We had to get the pool warmed up for them to do this because a diver with an air line had to go down to the main drains to plug and test everything. Confirmed that every single return, skimmer, main drain, spa intake, etc. held 15 psi without moving even a little. No cracks or leaks in any of the plumbing anywhere.

I am completely out of options now and the water loss continues. I have to refill by hose a few inches every 4-5 days to maintain. I will share some photos of our pool below.

The one and only thing that remains a mystery is the spa seating area near the deep end of the pool. The spa jets are not removable. You can twist them to the right to turn them off, or to the left to open them, but you cannot remove and plug and them individually. The plumbing after the chlorine feed diverges to the 3 main returns (individually pressure tested), and one line going to the spa. I have valves plumbed in to control if the 3 mains are on or off, or if the spa line is on or off, or both on/off. When winterizing I can either blow out the spa line and air lock. Or I can blow them out and fill that line with anti freeze. I have turned off this spa line so no pressurized water is flowing to the spa and still experience the water loss. Also, if the water was leaking back into these spa jets it should've leaked down to the lowest spa jet during the winter. It did not. So despite turning this off or air locking it again, it does not appear to be the problem.

If anyone has any thoughts or ideas for anything I should try or look closer at, it would be greatly appreciated. $1,000's have been spent trying to figure this out and were still at square one. Thank you.
 

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Is your sand filter waste line plumbing going directly to your sewer?

Someone had a leak like yours. It turned out the spider gasket in the sand filters multiport valve was leaking slowly out the waste line. So it leaked every time the pump was on. it was hard plumbed to the sewer so they never knew until it was discovered later.

Mine for example is not plumbed. It's just connected to a coiled up hose that would definitely leak and show the problem.

The leak definitely sounds like it's happening when the pump is running daily.
 
I appreciate your reply! The sand filter is not plumbed to a sewer line. Like yours, I have a backwash/waste hose that goes around the side of my house to my driveway when I need to backwash. I removed it for several days upon opening the pool this year and there was no leakage from the multiport valve while the pump is operating in filter mode. I had also replaced the multiport just 2 years ago so its fresh.

This water loss is such a mystery. We have no wet spots in the surrounding lawn. No warping/bubbling of the liner. No sagging or cracking concrete. The pump is always primed and operating as it should (no air bubbles/loss of pressure). After all the pressure tests came back negative, there just doesn't seem to be anything left to check. Even the pool leak specialists were like, we've got no other explanations, but they still acknowledge there's too much water being lost day to day for it to be normal evaporation.
 
Well you certainly gave us a lot of information to ponder, kudos for your being thorough. Just thinking about your puzzle, even though I have no experience with liners or winterizing since I've always been in SW FL with a few different pools. I've tried my own version of dye tests and never trusted the outcomes, but perhaps we can trust you and the folks you hired.

Do you know for sure that it leaks with pump on, off, or both? Data from the winter implies only when pump is on? Unless the water level was different I guess.

Other thoughts: Is there any other equipment like a roof / solar heater that might leak without notice?

Then I'm thinking more about the reliability of the dye tests and about the skimmer: I have a second 2" pipe coming off the bottom of the skimmer enclosure for overflow... Mine leads out and back up and through a grate out in the yard and I'd never notice if water was coming through there., or out of a lower portion of that pipe for sure I'd never notice. When set up correctly it allows overflow water to re-level the pool so that skimmer stays unflooded. Would the dye or pressure tests have found a leak in that pipe? Or for that matter in the skimmer enclosure itself, cracks in that?

Agreed for sure you have a leak. I don't lose nearly that much due to evap even on the hottest and driest days and weeks in SW FL.
Still pondering, wishing you luck!
 
I tried to get as much detail up front because I've been reading these threads for years and see how the experts here describe things :)

To answer your first question, we went over every fixture and seam with the syringe dye test, so very close up and detailed. This was while the pool was open and the pump was off. We didn't encounter anything that showed a current of water leaving the pool on liner seams or returns/intakes/lights, etc.

I have not yet left the pool in an open state (not winterized/plugged) with the pump off for a substantial period of time. I will have to do this, but have avoided it because I don't want to begin battling an algae bloom as well. We just got open and fully running in early May so I'll have to try this and tape the water line to see if it moves when the pump is off. The winter does imply that when the pump is off, and all returns/intakes are sealed, that there is no water loss.

None of the equipment is leaking, our setup is rather simple (Photos below) and all in direct site.

Our skimmer baskets are also a single line (Photos below). Looks like the skimmer basket could have had a second line, but its always been sealed with the cap shown. We dye tested those as well with the syringe and saw no movement. When we took off the winter cover this year, the water level was above the opening to the skimmers, in fact the gizmos were submerged. So if the skimmer housing was cracked or leaking I would think it would've at least dropped to wherever the crack might've been. Not the case.

I really appreciate the reply and ideas. These are all very helpful things in narrowing down what we've looked at and what we need to try next. In addition to letting the pool sit open with the pump off to see if there is movement, my next move will be to plug one return at a time and observe. Then plug one skimmer at a time and observe. Despite the all clear on the pressure tests I'll have to attempt to isolate each one to see if something strange is happening around the fixture.
 

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I think it's important to isolate whether it is leaking with the pump on or off.

You can leave the equipmemt off, add liquid chlorine and manually mix it in to keep the pool properly chlorinated.
Additionally, use a sump pump (inside a weighted 5 gallon bucket) at one end of the pool and attach a hose running to the opposite end for circulation.

And while not ideal, if it still leaks with the equipment off, allow the pool to drain down until it stops leaking. The leak will then be somewhere at the new water line.
 
That's a really good suggestion for keeping the pool in circulation with the equipment off. Hadn't thought of that. I will have to give this a try, perhaps later in the season, so we don't lose the small window of use for our pool in the midwest.

With the water holding all winter, shouldn't that eliminate the potential for a structural leak (liner leak)? And if that means its a plumbing problem (either skimmers or returns), how could they pressure test cleanly while still being a potential source of a leak? If its not a cracked pipe is there something else it could be in relation to the returns/skimmers?
 
I think it's important to isolate whether it is leaking with the pump on or off.

You can leave the equipmemt off, add liquid chlorine and manually mix it in to keep the pool properly chlorinated.
Additionally, use a sump pump (inside a weighted 5 gallon bucket) at one end of the pool and attach a hose running to the opposite end for circulation.

And while not ideal, if it still leaks with the equipment off, allow the pool to drain down until it stops leaking. The leak will then be somewhere at the new water line.


I wrote a separate post accidentally, I meant to reply directly to you....

That's a really good suggestion for keeping the pool in circulation with the equipment off. Hadn't thought of that. I will have to give this a try, perhaps later in the season, so we don't lose the small window of use for our pool in the midwest.

With the water holding all winter, shouldn't that eliminate the potential for a structural leak (liner leak)? And if that means its a plumbing problem (either skimmers or returns), how could they pressure test cleanly while still being a potential source of a leak? If its not a cracked pipe is there something else it could be in relation to the returns/skimmers?
 
I feel for you - just finished a bout with 3 or 4 separate leaks with an inherited pool. You mention the jets in the spa that you can rotate to turn on and off the water flow? Do they have an aeration line in them? I had some 15 year old jets that had a bad o ring that allowed water while under pressure to go up the air line. I never thought you could really loose a measurable amount - but with many hours of the pump running turns out any leak adds up. It’s worse when you close them off as that increases the pressure in the line and pushes more water past the faulty o ring.
 
Could be the actual fitting drilled through the fiberglass. Bad seal or silicone. Had one earlier this year. Plumbing was good just had to drain down a bit and silicone around where the fitting was.
 

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Could be the actual fitting drilled through the fiberglass. Bad seal or silicone. Had one earlier this year. Plumbing was good just had to drain down a bit and silicone around where the fitting was.
Any chance you could post a picture of the jet? If they twist, normally if you turn past the counterclockwise open and it will unscrew out of a housing.

Post a pic and let the more experienced people chime in. Does it have bubbles when it’s on?
 
Could be the actual fitting drilled through the fiberglass. Bad seal or silicone. Had one earlier this year. Plumbing was good just had to drain down a bit and silicone around where the fitting was.
Is there a point of failure inside the return fixture that could be the source? Because when everything was closed with drain plugs there was no water loss. This is what I can't get my head around.
 
I feel for you - just finished a bout with 3 or 4 separate leaks with an inherited pool. You mention the jets in the spa that you can rotate to turn on and off the water flow? Do they have an aeration line in them? I had some 15 year old jets that had a bad o ring that allowed water while under pressure to go up the air line. I never thought you could really loose a measurable amount - but with many hours of the pump running turns out any leak adds up. It’s worse when you close them off as that increases the pressure in the line and pushes more water past the faulty o ring.
Originally when bought the house, the pool spa area was controlled by a separate pump that was activated by an air pressure switch. I eliminate the 2nd pump and replumbed the pool to run on 1 VS pump about 7 years ago, long before the liner was replaced, and long before this leak issue started last year. I don't think there is an aeration line in them, the spa nozzles spin creating some amount of aeration, but I do not know if there is an actual aeration line. At the moment, I have the spa return line completely turned off, no pressurized water from the pump is running to the spa at all.
 
Any chance you could post a picture of the jet? If they twist, normally if you turn past the counterclockwise open and it will unscrew out of a housing.

Post a pic and let the more experienced people chime in. Does it have bubbles when it’s on?
Below is a photo of the spa area. I have attempted to get them off in the past but they do not budge. Its just counter clockwise to open (allow water to flow through, when the spa line is open) and clockwise to close. When I say close, I mean if the pump is on and the spa line is open, the water will still come through at reduced rate, but there is no aeration. The aeration is caused by the spinning piece in the spa jet nozzle head. I will follow up with a close up picture of the spa jet returns tonite.
 

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Here's a diagram explaining the pool returns in photo. The 3 main returns were cut and pressure tested individually. The spa return could not be pressure tested because we cannot plug the spa jets (and they can't be removed). I have turned off the spa line (as you can see in the photo), so no pressurized water is flowing to the spa currently. This was the state it was in over the winter, and we experience no water loss.
 

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I may have missed it earlier but when you closed the pool for the winter and it remained "full", what water level are you calling full? Actually full? Below the skimmers? Below returns?
 
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I may have missed it earlier but when you closed the pool for the winter and it remained "full", what water level are you calling full? Actually full? Below the skimmers? Below returns?
Yes, completely full. The gizmo's in the skimmer basket were actually submerged under water. The water level was above the top opening of the skimmer intakes (actual photo below of the water level upon taking the cover off this year). I do not lower the water below the skimmers when winterizing because we have a high water table with a flood plain behind us. Before I replaced the liner in 2020, we had issues with the original liner pulling away from the walls, bubbling, and creating creases. Thats all been resolved with redirected down spouts from the house and maintaining a higher water level when winterizing. And it still added 3-4 inches of water over the winter.
 

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Understood. If I'm tracking, the pool doesn't leak when the pump is off and skimmer/returns are plugged. As stated earlier, at least you know your next test cases:

1) Pump OFF (skimmer/returns NOT plugged)
2) Pump OFF (skimmer/returns plugged) to see if you can duplicate the winter results
 

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