Aa

[Chaz1991]

Here are the pictures in the picture it looks Bluer Than what it is it's actually like a milk White that's why I took the one of the skimmer you might be able to see how milk it is in that thank you again

 

[Mdragger88]

Chaz,

to keep my chlorine at the level between 3:00 and 6:00 I keep 16 tabs of trichloro s traz four tabs in four different floaters

Each tab adds 1.3ppm cya to your water - this steadily increases your cya making your necessary fc level increase - 16 tabs adds 21ppm cya! remove the tab floaters asap.

You need to know your actual cya & be able to test fc & cc separately over 10ppm to adequately do the
SLAM Process without risking your liner or equipment & to ensure you not only kill the visible algae but also prove it is gone safely.
Your taylor k2005 should be able to test cya - you just need the reagent & possibly the little squirty bottle if you have lost yours

R-0013 CYA Reagent (8oz)

tftestkits.net

The test strips have too broad of a range & may lead you to over/under dose wasting chlorine as too little is less effective & too much risks damaging your pool. FC/CYA Levels
The k2005 only accurately measures up to 10ppm fc so you’re flying blind right now.
You need the fas/dpd test as it measures fc & cc separately up to 50ppm accurately

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net

As mentioned- no floc.

Just the slam process with liquid chlorine.
For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

 

[kellyfair]

Yes hello once the slam calms down from being all milky looking and I can see the bottom hopefully in Clear Water I will send you a picture of the stains. Thank you again. I'm going to send you a picture of the slam that I did. Can you take a cya reading while you're doing a slam? I figure I need to let this sit at least a couple of days to get clear last time I slammed it took 2 days for it to clear.

You haven’t done a SLAM. To SLAM you test your chlorine, add enough liquid chlorine to bring it to a certain level. Then a couple of hours later, you test again, and add more chlorine to get back to that level. Then do the same thing a couple of hours later. You keep doing this for as many days as it takes to get clear water. There won’t be any settling needed because there won’t be anything left in the water.

You can’t do any of the process until you have the right test kit - do you have one, or are you getting a pool store to test your water? You need to test your water yourself, with your own kit.

 

[Chaz1991]

Chaz,

Each tab adds 1.3ppm cya to your water - this steadily increases your cya making your necessary fc level increase - 16 tabs adds 21ppm cya! remove the tab floaters asap.
View attachment 521042
You need to know your actual cya & be able to test fc & cc separately over 10ppm to adequately do the
SLAM Process without risking your liner or equipment & to ensure you not only kill the visible algae but also prove it is gone safely.
Your taylor k2005 should be able to test cya - you just need the reagent & possibly the little squirty bottle if you have lost yours

R-0013 CYA Reagent (8oz)

tftestkits.net

The test strips have too broad of a range & may lead you to over/under dose wasting chlorine as too little is less effective & too much risks damaging your pool. FC/CYA Levels
The k2005 only accurately measures up to 10ppm fc so you’re flying blind right now.
You need the fas/dpd test as it measures fc & cc separately up to 50ppm accurately

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net

As mentioned- no floc.

Just the slam process with liquid chlorine.
For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

Okay now I've read this but I am where I am if you see the other post. I did order the test kit. I guess at this point all I can do is wait for it to clear up so I can see it but the pictures I sent do not do justice they make it look like it's blue it's not it's milk. My liner is 18 years old and has no design on it it is a very light blue almost white in color. That is one of the reasons the stains show up so bad I think but they shouldn't be there at all. I really do appreciate your help.

 

[Chaz1991]

Okay now I've read this but I am where I am if you see the other post. I did order the test kit. I guess at this point all I can do is wait for it to clear up so I can see it but the pictures I sent do not do justice they make it look like it's blue it's not it's milk. My liner is 18 years old and has no design on it it is a very light blue almost white in color. That is one of the reasons the stains show up so bad I think but they shouldn't be there at all. I really do appreciate your help.

Looking at the chart that you sent for the cya versus slam level my cya with the Taylor test kit that I have with seeing that little black dot at the bottom I did it three times and I kept coming up with between 60 70 which the chart calls for 28 on my FC which of course with the Taylor kit that I have only goes up to 20 but it is so much darker I'm thinking it's above 20 closer to 30. But why is the darn thing so milky?. Again all I'm going to do is wait for 3 Days to see if it clears up

 

[kellyfair]

Okay now I've read this but I am where I am if you see the other post. I did order the test kit. I guess at this point all I can do is wait for it to clear up so I can see it but the pictures I sent do not do justice they make it look like it's blue it's not it's milk. My liner is 18 years old and has no design on it it is a very light blue almost white in color. That is one of the reasons the stains show up so bad I think but they shouldn't be there at all. I really do appreciate your help.

Don‘t worry about stains now. Once your water is truly clear - no cloudy water, no algae, and you have a handle on keeping it that way, then we can talk about any staining that might be present.

Get the test kit and get some liquid chlorine. Let us know when your kit arrives.

 

[kellyfair]

Looking at the chart that you sent for the cya versus slam level my cya with the Taylor test kit that I have with seeing that little black dot at the bottom I did it three times and I kept coming up with between 60 70 which the chart calls for 28 on my FC which of course with the Taylor kit that I have only goes up to 20 but it is so much darker I'm thinking it's above 20 closer to 30. But why is the darn thing so milky?. Again all I'm going to do is wait for 3 Days to see if it clears up

The milky water is likely algae, especially since you have green in your deep end. And you can’t accurately measure chlorine until you receive the part of the test kit that you are missing.

Have you looked at PoolMath yet? Rather than add a lot of chlorine when you have no idea how much you already have, let it fall until you aren’t at the very top of the color block on the container, then add just enough to stay near the top. That way you have some chlorine in the water, but you aren’t overdoing it.

Don’t add a bunch of other stuff. Just chlorine, until you can accurately test it.

 

[Chaz1991]

The milky water is likely algae, especially since you have green in your deep end. And you can’t accurately measure chlorine until you receive the part of the test kit that you are missing.

Have you looked at PoolMath yet? Rather than add a lot of chlorine when you have no idea how much you already have, let it fall until you aren’t at the very top of the color block on the container, then add just enough to stay near the top. That way you have some chlorine in the water, but you aren’t overdoing it.

Don’t add a bunch of other stuff. Just chlorine, until you can accurately test it.

Yes I'm looking forward to getting that test kit add on to the Taylor test kit I'm using now. I was keeping it between the three and six mark of the free chlorine. That's why I don't understand how I got algae again keeping the chlorine up there. But after the past couple days on here I think the amount of cya I had was canceling out the use of the chlorine. Correct? I think once my FC starts to go down I hope to see why a will go down as well.? At this point I am just going to wait until the free chlorine goes down to about 5 ppm hopefully by then the water will be clear if not I don't know what to do . I will keep you informed. Again thank you for all your help.

 

[kellyfair]

Exactly, your CYA is high and so it takes a lot more chlorine to be effective. The only way to reduce CYA is to drain water, but don’t panic. Once you can properly test, then we can advise you on the steps you need to take.

Your water won’t be clear until we eliminate the algae, but we’re going to do that, so don’t worry!

While you are waiting, go take a look through the thread I’ve linked below. This is how clear your pool will be if you hang in with us and follow the principles we encourage.

How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[Chaz1991]

Exactly, your CYA is high and so it takes a lot more chlorine to be effective. The only way to reduce CYA is to drain water, but don’t panic. Once you can properly test, then we can advise you on the steps you need to take.

Your water won’t be clear until we eliminate the algae, but we’re going to do that, so don’t worry!

While you are waiting, go take a look through the thread I’ve linked below. This is how clear your pool will be if you hang in with us and follow the principles we encourage.

How Clear is TFP Clear?

Thank you I will look at that thread. To drain my pool and fill it is not really feasible. I am on a well. And I've never drained a pool before so I don't really know how to do it. But as you said I'll wait till the pool cloudiness is gone / the algae is dead. Then we can go from there. Correct?

 

[Chaz1991]

I've looked at that thread about how clear is clear . I've had my pool that clear many times just this year has been a real pain in the neck. My pool is 18 years old 26,000 gallon 21x42 above ground with a 8 ft deep end and no drain at the deep end. Keeping circulation has been a challenge I've added a sump pump that I run when people are not there. Looking forward to that clear again. Thank you

 

[Mdragger88]

When your fas/dpd kit arrives you can accurately keep the fc at slam level as often as possible until you pass all 3 end of slam criteria
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

That’s the whole point Shock Level And Maintain = SLAM
You don’t want the fc to fall until you have passed all those criteria. Letting it fall to 5ppm won’t accomplish anything. Keep with slam.

Until then you can attempt to reach slam level but don’t attempt to go over.
Glad to know that you’re able to actually test cya.

 

[Chaz1991]

When your fas/dpd kit arrives you can accurately keep the fc at slam level as often as possible until you pass all 3 end of slam criteria
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

That’s the whole point Shock Level And Maintain = SLAM
You don’t want the fc to fall until you have passed all those criteria. Letting it fall to 5ppm won’t accomplish anything. Keep with slam.

Until then you can attempt to reach slam level but don’t attempt to go over.
Glad to know that you’re able to actually test cya.

The cya reading that I'm getting may not be very accurate. With the Taylor test kit I have you use the pool water and then add the region till the black dot goes away the pool water is so cloudy won't that affect my reading? Is there a better kit to test my cya with? And if I need to add more chlorine should I continue to use the granular chlorine that I use to slam or should I use liquid chlorine. If I need to use liquid chlorine what kind should I buy I've never used liquid chlorine before? Thank you so much

 

[kellyfair]

Liquid chlorine is best right now. And don’t worry, you can work with high CYA, you’ll just require more chlorine.

Why aren’t you getting adequate circulation from your pump?

 

[Mdragger88]

The cya reading that I'm getting may not be very accurate. With the Taylor test kit I have you use the pool water and then add the region till the black dot goes away the pool water is so cloudy won't that affect my reading? Is there a better kit to test my cya with? And if I need to add more chlorine should I continue to use the granular chlorine that I use to slam or should I use liquid chlorine. If I need to use liquid chlorine what kind should I buy I've never used liquid chlorine before? Thank you so much

That is the most accurate cya test. Your cloudy water will not affect the test results. Be sure to do the test in bright light, outdoors on a sunny day is best.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.google.com

Use liquid chlorine- cal hypo adds calcium which can cause scaling if you have too much & can make cloudiness worse.
Dedicated pool liquid chlorine is best - they sell it at Walmart, Home Depot, lowes, ace, menards etc. It will usually say 10% or 12% sodium hypochlorite on the ingredients label .

 

[Chaz1991]

Liquid chlorine is best right now. And don’t worry, you can work with high CYA, you’ll just require more chlorine.

Why aren’t you getting adequate circulation from your pump?

The circulation might be all right now I only have the one jet in that big of a pool I have a facing a little down and straight across from where it comes out I've also added a sub pump to create more of a whirlpool. But that deep end is always pretty much a dead spot. Any ideas?

 

[Mdragger88]

The circulation might be all right now I only have the one jet in that big of a pool I have a facing a little down and straight across from where it comes out I've also added a sub pump to create more of a whirlpool. But that deep end is always pretty much a dead spot. Any ideas?

You may want to consider adding another return closer to the deep end.
Maybe when it’s time for a new liner or when you drain down some for winter. Or if you replace the pool be sure to add one.
Until then be sure to brush/vac regularly & keep fc adequate as compared to your cya
FC/CYA Levels when you return to maintenance after the SLAM Process is completed.
During slam you should brush & or vac daily.