Excellent, thank you.

I have read that wiki page multiple times and each time I feel like I retain something new.
 
Passed the drain, pressure, and final plumbing inspections so that is a relief. Pressure it still holding in all of the lines so I'll leave them as they are until I finish backfill. I have a Dingo being dropped off today and this weekend I plan on backfilling the trenches with 3/4" clean stone up to 7" below where pavers will sit to give me room for the paver base material. I also plan on finishing the plumbing for my equipment pad, and then hopefully the electrician can come out next week to get that wired up.
 
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Look what came in the mail today!
 
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It really helps when you know 'a guy' and they can let you borrow a Dingo for as long as you need. This is making backfilling the pool walls legitimately fun. I went through 12 tons of stone today, and I have another 15 coming Tuesday. Side note: source your stone from a quarry and not through a landscaper supplier. With the quantities we are ordering it is much cheaper.

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Also I got my equipment pad plumbed. Hopefully the electrician can come out this week to get that wrapped up.
 


The last 15 tons of gravel were delivered yesterday. Going to take the coming weekend to finish the backfill, with special attention to getting under the steps. I'm also currently getting quotes for someone else to pour the concrete collar for the coping, as the idea of trying to pour 1.5 yards of concrete into what effectively turns into a 6" wide opening around the lip of the pool sounds less than fun.

The good news is we got a really good (read: reasonable) quote for someone to excavate and put down the gravel for the paver pool deck.

Companies A, B, and C wanted $30k to do the entire 1k sqft of pavers.

Company D wants $4k to excavate and then put down the compacted gravel to grade. I'll be on the hook for providing the ~$8k in materials and then eventually laying the pavers over sand. Company D is also the company that we used to excavate for the pool so I have a good relationship with them now and am comfortable with the work they do.
 
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I got the backfilling complete yesterday, just in time to get dumped on with rain last night. This is what we woke up to. If you look in the bottom right it looks like water is filling the trenches and seeping into the pool at the panel joints around the step. I am thinking that once the liner and water is in, it should seal those spots, and then once the pavers are in there will be less water making it's way into the trench. Is this anything to worry about or carry on as normal?

edit: I just checked our local weather station and it looks like we got over 2" of rain over 2 hours.
 
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and seeping into the pool at the panel joints around the step.
It's leaking at the wall one next to it too.

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But that's OK and the liner will keep the pool water where it's supposed to be. (y)

Big storm water that gets into the trench risks floating the liner though. So diverting it from the top is your mission, which was already your mission when you get there. Carry on.
 
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Dleonard... 2 inches of rain in 2 hours would have my well point pump running for a while - like probably on and off for a day. I would have a good amount of water under the pool, even with about 8 feet of concrete around the entire pool, sloped away from it. So - I don't think what you are seeing is unexpected - and the key is managing as much of the water as you can before it gets under the liner/pool. The other worry with water under the liner is that is can wash out parts of the floor, which looks ugly. It's not too late to put some type of well point next to the pool to move water away from it - in my case, it moves the water from under the pool to a lower spot in the yard about 15 feet away. (Which isn't far enough, I intend to extend the outlet all the way to to curb as a future project.) You are fortunate to see this now, so you can see what a big rain does and plan ahead for it in your remaining design and construction. I attached a picture of my pool and the purple arrow shows where the well point is located relative to the pool - it extends down about 8 feet adjacent to the deep end with crushed stone under it. The second picture shows inside with the water-activated pump and plumbing. (it's on a GFCI circuit breaker now, wasn't when I took possession of the house - wow.)
 

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@ajw22 off the top of your head, do you know if NEC has anything to say about non-metallic versus metallic liquid tight conduit for pump and SWG wiring?

I'm getting ready to place my order for the electrical supplies. Does this look reasonable? I'm running 240v to the timer and then pump and SWG.
- 50' of 1/2" liquid tight conduit (still unsure of if non-metallic is ok or if I need metallic)
- (6) 1/2" seal tight connectors
- (2) 50' lengths of 12 gauge stranded copper THHN in black
- (1) 50' length of 12 gauge stranded copper THHN in green

I already have the Siemens 20A 2 pole GFCI breaker on hand.
 
do you know if NEC has anything to say about non-metallic versus metallic liquid tight conduit for pump and SWG wiring?
Both times (now and 10 years ago) my pump outlet and SWG controller got flex conduit.


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Feed from house is solid PVC to the left, then pool light is also solid. Then the 2 flex pipes to the pad.

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@ajw22 off the top of your head, do you know if NEC has anything to say about non-metallic versus metallic liquid tight conduit for pump and SWG wiring?

I'm getting ready to place my order for the electrical supplies. Does this look reasonable? I'm running 240v to the timer and then pump and SWG.
- 50' of 1/2" liquid tight conduit (still unsure of if non-metallic is ok or if I need metallic)
- (6) 1/2" seal tight connectors
- (2) 50' lengths of 12 gauge stranded copper THHN in black
- (1) 50' length of 12 gauge stranded copper THHN in green

I already have the Siemens 20A 2 pole GFCI breaker on hand.

Will it be buried or above ground?

If all above ground then use grey non-metallic PVC electrical conduit. Use the proper glue which is different then what you use on the Schedule 40 PVC.

Use THHN/THWN wire.

You need nipples and nuts and stuff to glue onto the ends of the ENT.
 
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Much appreciated, I've got my electrical supplies order places.

@jimmythegreek for the paver coping I've read your advice in other threads to use laticrete 254 as the thinset to bond pavers to bond beam. I think at one point I read you recommend Type S mortar as the grout. Do you still recommend that? How would you feel about using a sanded grout? I was looking at something like this to get a color I like.

 

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