16' x 30' Flat Kidney Owner Build
- Thread starter dleonard1122
- Start date
Just have to caulk the expansion joint tomorrow and then I am clear for final inspection and closing the pool for winter (to include initial install of the safety cover.)
I'm a bit bummed at the moment though. I got caught in a passing 5 minute rain while I was installing my polymeric sand. Now some of it is stuck to the top faces of the pavers, so I'm sure it's a bit messed up. I should have checked the radar right before I started, but I'm just dead dead tired from working on this for literally 8 straight days. It's bittersweet that it's over but not perfect, but I am just too tired to feel much more than relief that it's in the past. We'll see what the pavers look like when they dry. Maybe It'll look awful and I'll pressure wash the whole thing and re-sand. Or maybe it'll be hardly noticeable and I won't care. Either way, I need a drink and to just enjoy not having to cut and lay any more pavers.
- Jan 28, 2021
- 165
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Looks absolutely fantastic - incredible amount of effort and planning.
It takes a few rounds of being wet to get the perfect consistency to harden. Until it reaches that level being too wet or not wet enough, it's spongy/gummy and cleans easy. In blanketing the area well, they all but glued my skimmer lits shut and it came off with my fingers.
Can I get a sanity check on my closing procedures (never closed a pool before, and want to make sure I've understood all of the relevant info in Pool School and the various threads I've read here.)
I understand every pool is different, and as such I think this process will work for my setup. I'm hoping to get blow thru valves and use an air compressor to blow out the lines.
- Lower water 2" below skimmer
- Remove SWG from pad plumbing
- Insert blow thru valve on return side of SWG opening
- blow out each return, capping with expandable rubber plug (or ideally bungee plugs)
- close all return valves
- insert blow thru valve on suction side of pump basket
- close main drain valve, open skimmer valves as necessary to blow out.
- blow out skimmers, insert gizmos and closing valve when finished
- open main drain valve and air lock main drain
- suck any remaining water out of pump, drain filter and remove cartridge
- install safety cover
How does that sound from a 'mechanical' perspective of closing? (I still have questions on the chemistry side)
I understand every pool is different, and as such I think this process will work for my setup. I'm hoping to get blow thru valves and use an air compressor to blow out the lines.
- Lower water 2" below skimmer
- Remove SWG from pad plumbing
- Insert blow thru valve on return side of SWG opening
- blow out each return, capping with expandable rubber plug (or ideally bungee plugs)
- close all return valves
- insert blow thru valve on suction side of pump basket
- close main drain valve, open skimmer valves as necessary to blow out.
- blow out skimmers, insert gizmos and closing valve when finished
- open main drain valve and air lock main drain
- suck any remaining water out of pump, drain filter and remove cartridge
- install safety cover
How does that sound from a 'mechanical' perspective of closing? (I still have questions on the chemistry side)
Chemistry questions:
Do I really need to SLAM prior to closing? With the CYA levels we run with SWG it feels impractical. I didn't see any literature related to this in pool school so wanted to ask.
Is the algaecide necessary if I'm closing this late and the water is already freezing cold?
Do I really need to SLAM prior to closing? With the CYA levels we run with SWG it feels impractical. I didn't see any literature related to this in pool school so wanted to ask.
Is the algaecide necessary if I'm closing this late and the water is already freezing cold?
Everything is great except the installing blow through valves at the equipment pad part. If the returns/skimmers are above the water line, you just blow them empty then plug them (with gizzmo or threaded cap) If either is below the water line then you need blow through plugs on the pool side.
Passing an OCLT before closing is sound insurance as well. I know, I know. I run HOT and know I'm gonna pass too. But OCLTS are free, so.
Well, you'll want some of that 28 FC to last all winter, so yeah. Even at .25 FC a day when cold and covered, that's only a little over 3 months.
Passing an OCLT before closing is sound insurance as well. I know, I know. I run HOT and know I'm gonna pass too. But OCLTS are free, so.
I am on Team Full SLAM no algecide.
This is mainly as a way of adapting my compressor to the plumbing. I was hoping to find the expandable rubber plugs with the valve that can be made to connect an air compressor to.
My returns will be below the water line, and yeah if I can find the bungee plugs in time I'll use them.
Hmm, looks like I can reach SLAM level of my current ~60 CYA with 3 gallons of 6% bleach. Not as bad as I thought it'd be.
It looks like my local pool supply house has the duck bill blow through plugs in stock, so I'll probably give them a go on the returns this year and see how they work out. And they're trying to get me a couple of #11 blow-through rubber stoppers for the equipment pad side so I can hook up my compressor.
Side note, I've been pushing off blowing out my irrigation system as well, so I feel like this is a good time to buy one product that can do both. I know the cyclones are lauded here for their ability to blow out pools, but unfortunately don't work well for long runs of irrigation pipe. I've only got 3 irrigation zones I need to do, so I'm just going to pick up a compressor that I think will be able to handle both tasks well enough for me.
So far this is what I'm considering:
www.harborfreight.com
I've got the smaller 2 gallon version of this and really like it for how quiet and portable it is. This 10 gallon version has 5.4 SCFM at 40psi, and obviously a lot more capacity which should be sufficient for me to effectively blow out both my pool lines and my irrigation system (although it will admittedly be a slower process than if I had purpose-built equipment for both)
Side note, I've been pushing off blowing out my irrigation system as well, so I feel like this is a good time to buy one product that can do both. I know the cyclones are lauded here for their ability to blow out pools, but unfortunately don't work well for long runs of irrigation pipe. I've only got 3 irrigation zones I need to do, so I'm just going to pick up a compressor that I think will be able to handle both tasks well enough for me.
So far this is what I'm considering:
10 Gallon 175 PSI Ultra Quiet Horizontal Shop/Auto Air Compressor
Amazing deals on this 10Gal 175Psi Horizontal Compressor at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
I've got the smaller 2 gallon version of this and really like it for how quiet and portable it is. This 10 gallon version has 5.4 SCFM at 40psi, and obviously a lot more capacity which should be sufficient for me to effectively blow out both my pool lines and my irrigation system (although it will admittedly be a slower process than if I had purpose-built equipment for both)
I didn't like them. The rubber duck bill was chintzy and the ice pulled the yellow cap off leaving the flimsy rubber exposed.
Gotcha !!
I have a Craftsman 10 gal compressor and it can't handle my sprinkler lines. When I looked it up on various landscaping sites, the reccomendation was that 11 SCFM was preferred for sprinkler lines. The wheelbarrow style ones can do it with 9 SCFM, but they start at $1k.
I'll give it a try for this season and see how it goes. If I hate it I'll get something next year to be better prepared.
Yeah, I'm sure it's underpowered but I've only got 3 small zones to do so I know I can make it work with enough time.
I just caught up on this thread and it is at the end 
You did a GREAT job!!! LOVE everything about it!
You did a GREAT job!!! LOVE everything about it!I'm still glad you could make it! Thanks so much.I just caught up on this thread and it is at the end
Y'all I think we are actually done! I want to formally say a huge THANK YOU to TFP. This site and all of the folks on it have been instrumental in us getting to this point. I know I'm well overdue, but in a couple weeks when my credit card cools off a bit I will absolutely be donating to try and give a little bit back to all of you who have helped me so much.
Winterizing went pretty smoothly. I got a 26 gallon air compressor and that seemed to do well blowing out the lines as best as I can tell. We have fairly mild winters here in south Jersey, and my plumbing is deep so I am not too worried either way. The equipment pad is absolutely dry which was the most important thing to me.I used the NPT drain fitting on the pump instead of blow through plugs with Schrader valves because I figured that would allow for more volume. I also used regular plugs on the returns instead of duckbill ones ones because like @Newdude said once I saw the duckbill plugs I wasn't convinced they were a great design.
The safety cover is from Tara Pools (same as my liner) and was ordered through Royal Swimming Pools. No lie, this might have been my favorite step in the pool build process, and not even because of the obvious reason that it signified the end. Safety covers are just a cool design and the install process really isn't bad as long as you have the right equipment. I borrowed an SDS-Plus rotary hammer drill and used a $45 1" x 10" Bosch masonry drill bit to drill all 36 holes for the paver pipe anchors. By the last hole the bit was definitely worn down, but probably could have done at least a few more. I didn't decide to test the safety cover, but I'm ecstatic with how it came out. I only broke 1 paver, and it's relatively inconspicuous so I'm not even going to bother replacing it for now.
So, I think that really does mark the end of this build thread for me. At least for the foreseeable future I plan to cut back significantly on the amount of time I'm spending on it. Sometime this winter or in the spring I'll get a topsoil delivery and update y'all how that goes.
Thanks again for all of the advice and I truly appreciate the time anyone has taken to follow this thread. If anyone has any questions I'd be happy to do my best to answer them, it's the least I could do to give back.
Looks like you did a purrfect job with that cover. It looks tight as a drum! NICE!
Yeah let that card cool off a bit! We will be here when you are are ready!
Now do something for me. Start reading some on the boards. Do some looking around and see what sticks your fancy. It is the building? Is it the helping new people learn how to care for their pool...............wait I just thought of something. You SHOULD be reading up on how to care for a pool in the Just Getting Started. You will be able to see some problems others have had so that if/when you have a problem like theirs you will know what to do! That is how I started and look at me now!
Kim
Yeah let that card cool off a bit! We will be here when you are are ready!
Now do something for me. Start reading some on the boards. Do some looking around and see what sticks your fancy. It is the building? Is it the helping new people learn how to care for their pool...............wait I just thought of something. You SHOULD be reading up on how to care for a pool in the Just Getting Started. You will be able to see some problems others have had so that if/when you have a problem like theirs you will know what to do! That is how I started and look at me now!
Kim
Happy New Year TFP!
It's a relatively nice January day in South Jersey today so I decided to go out and pop a few springs off of the cover and check on the pool. To my surprise, it's filled up to the top, pretty much exactly to the water line we would have kept it at during the summer.
I put a manual transfer pump in to start pumping it back out. I haven't checked on it since I closed it in *checks notes* mid November. Should I be checking on it more often? Do I really need to continue to lower the water back down below the skimmer openings? I'm sure this is all location dependent but just curious what everyone's thoughts are.
It's a relatively nice January day in South Jersey today so I decided to go out and pop a few springs off of the cover and check on the pool. To my surprise, it's filled up to the top, pretty much exactly to the water line we would have kept it at during the summer.
I put a manual transfer pump in to start pumping it back out. I haven't checked on it since I closed it in *checks notes* mid November. Should I be checking on it more often? Do I really need to continue to lower the water back down below the skimmer openings? I'm sure this is all location dependent but just curious what everyone's thoughts are.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,601
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
All depends in the type of winter we get.
This year is turning out to be warm and wet and best to drain the pool back down in case it gets cold and snowy in February.
Yes, keep water out of the skimmers. The weather can change in February which is usually our coldest month.
So with a permeable cover, you can expect to get about 3 ft of free water each off season in the Northeast. It varies of course year to year, and you got a late start this year, but that's how much you'll need to drain as it adds up. It's up to you if you'd rather do it 3 times at a foot, or 6 times at 6 inches.
The key is keep your eyes on the long range forecast and lower it before any deep freezes. Once it's solid it has to be left alone until it completely melts. The melting ice can be razor sharp and slash the liner if disturbed. So once it's frozen you won't be able to drain for a while. Start low and have that buffer room in case it lasts a month+
The key is keep your eyes on the long range forecast and lower it before any deep freezes. Once it's solid it has to be left alone until it completely melts. The melting ice can be razor sharp and slash the liner if disturbed. So once it's frozen you won't be able to drain for a while. Start low and have that buffer room in case it lasts a month+