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We got the pool resurfaced about a year ago, when they blew off the nasty fibre-tech surface, there was no re-bar showing. I figure it has to be something from Irma. I spent a week getting all of the wind blown junk off the bottom of the pool.

Since controlling my own chemistry, this has to be the best year I've had with my pool in 8.5 years of homeownership. I've noticed two brown stains on the bottom of the pool, they clearly look like iron stains (about the size of a quarter each). They are on the transition between the shallow...

I say, use 'em if you got 'em. I have a half full bucket of trichlor tablets (around 20lbs) left over from before adding my SWG. I throw a few in a floater after backwashing and refilling to bring my Cl and CYA up. The most important part is to stay on top of your chemistry.

Thanks Richard, I'm targeting an FC of 4.0, but with all of the clear sunny days we've been having here I should have raised my SWCG%, was 40 now 50%. I am in a Wednesday and Sunday testing routine since my PebbleSheen finish was completed in November. Due to drama at work, I missed my...

OK, so I had a pH of 7.8+. So I added MA yesterday, and may have had a bit of a heavy hand, and my pH went down to almost 7.0. Should I raise the pH chemically, or just allow it to creep up. Right now I am adding 1 cup of MA twice a week. Any thoughts on TA, maybe I should use this chance...

Woke up, tested after circulation system running an hour. FC 9.5 CC 0.0 No overnight chlorine loss. The pool looks great in the morning, but by mid afternoon has a green tinge to it. Like I said not sure if its an optical illusion with light reflecting around.

My big question, is an OCLT test valid if I don't run the pump all night, but run it again for an hour in the morning before I take the second reading.

In the morning it looks blue, but full sun of the day has a green tinge to it. Not sure if is a reflection off the house into the Blue Granite Pebblesheen causing an appearance of green. My fill water is municipal water.

OK, so we had a ton of rain. The pool has had a tinge of green to it the last few days, crystal clear though. I am coming off of a SLAM and I have 8.5 FC, 0.0 CC the last few days, and a 7.6 pH. Planning on doing an OCLT tonight, since the pool is clear. Should I leave the pump running or...

It was re-finished back in November, but it looks just AS GOOD as it did after the first chlorination post-resurface. My FC is 17 right now, I'm hoping to swim in it on Sunday afternoon, not sure what the FC will be then. It is pretty sunny in Florida this time of year.

Crystal clear, this is the first time I've done it without powdered shock. Much better result, Thanks! Bleach, bleach, bleach, brush, brush, brush (repeat)

Fertilizer blends around me always contain Iron to green up the lawn. I would do my best to get it out if it was my pool.

Yes, added more bleach to get the FC up, and brushed entire pool. Circulation system still running. Off to get more bleach.

Ok, I tested this morning FC: 18.5 CC: 0 pH: 7.8 (I adjusted before to 7.2, should I adjust this during the SLAM?) Thanks!

And the kids have been going in there everyday since the water temp got over 78. An 8 year old and 4 year old, not to mention the 40 year old kid with a beverage on the deck. The bather load may have tipped the scale, I'm keeping an Excel spreadsheet of SWCG % and run time as well as my...

My neighbor just had a huge oak tree trimmed, and one removed. My pump strainer and skimmer basket were full of the little pollen pods. I wonder if that's why?

pH lowered, adding bleach in an hour. I'm trying to figure out how algae got started when I've kept a FC of 4.0 and a CYA of 65-70 with a SWCG.

I've read about SLAMing a few times, not sure what my endpoint would be if I don't have any combined chlorine?

I noticed my pool was a little cloudy today, I brushed the surface and saw green come up behind the brush. :-( So I pulled out my Taylor K-2006 and here is what I got FC 4.0 CC 0.0 pH 7.6 TA 115 CH 210 CYA 70 NaCl 3200 Temp 82F The pool wasn't "green" but a little off color. Any ideas...

I'm running 4 right now, mostly for my Zodiac to get the leaves. I have two sets of intermatic trippers and go from 4-6am and 4-6pm. This allows a more constant FC level from my SWCG, as well as 2 hours once I get home from work to add chemicals. Working like a charm.

I concur, when I first salted my pool I had 800ppm before adding a single ounce of salt. I figure it is a natural reaction between Sodium Bicarbonate, and Hydrochloric acid over time adjusting pH, as well as the sweaty people who use it. I had no idea the NaCl was there until I tested for it...

I concur with the consensus that your gelcoat is worn. I have a gunite pool that was re-surfaced with fiberglass a decade ago, well before we bought the house. The surface looked smooth when full of water, but there was white residue always on the surface. The surface looked smooth when...

I see in your sig that you have a SWCG. You may consider raising your CYA levels to the values here: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart I know that with my Hayward Aqua-Rite, if I had a CYA of 25 my salt cell would be working overtime, and probably burn out quicker. I know the aqua-rite...

Also, I've noticed that my pool has gotten quite cloudy. I'm not sure if that is all of the salt I added going into solution, and once it gets into solution it'll clear up.

Hey Y'all! I am finally adjusting my chemistry to become a salt water pool again. I added 3 lbs of CYA and noticed that my pH had dropped considerably. It dropped from 7.6 to 7.2, I am wondering if I should raise the pH chemically or just let it rise naturally. My surface is still curing...

If you hadn't added CYA, do you think the CYA test "isn't working" because it is in fact 0 or near 0?

I learn something new every day, Taylor sells a pink DPD drop test in the K-1005, and a standalone FAS-DPD test in the K-1515. I would re-read the instructions on the K-1515 test, and try it again. What kind of finish is it (i.e. plaster, exposed aggregate pebble or granite, vinyl...)?

I'm in Seminole, 5 miles north of St. Petersburg and I am dropping about .5ppm per day starting at a 7ppm FC level and 25ppm CYA. From what I understand, Higher FC levels should drop quicker, but your CYA level is triple what mine is.

Out of curiosity, how do you measure a FC of 44.5? Do you 89 drops of FAS-DPD reagent to a 10mL sample?

My new pebblesheen surface is drinking acid, I am on my 6th jug in two weeks. Looks beautiful though, got home last night pH 7.8, add acid. Kindof a routine, get it to 7.2 and a day or two later 7.8.