Search results

Well I'm a little late in saying welcome, but welcome to TFP. Please add your pool/equipment info to your signature. - - > Create Your Signature - Further Reading What SoDel said (y) I jumped in without thoroughly reading that first post. If that CYA reading is reliable the first thing you need...

Same with me. Wasn't paying attention to salt as having a SWCG is new to me and over the winter needed to add water, salt didn't change. Now with all the rain I just noticed salt dripped to 2500 when it should be up around 3200. There are times the pool is more work than fun.

The waterfall will over time raise pH. How much and how fast depends on how much water is going over and how far it's falling as that will effect the aeration of the water. Adding muratic acid will lower the pH to a more desirable range. Maybe shoot for around 7.6?

You might want to add you pools info into your signature. It makes it easier for people to find that info and it posts automatically. See - - >Create Your Signature - Further Reading Have you tried the dilution test yet ? Results ? 1/2 cup pool water and 1/2 cup tap water for the CYA.

Using an old sock, add most of the CYA (stabilizer) your pool calls for and weight down the sock in front of a return. You can kneed the sock like bread to make it dissolve a little quicker if you like. Always easier to add a little more CYA than drain water to lower the CYA level. That's why...

Before I got comfortable doing my own testing with my then new to me TF100 I'd go to the pool store to double check. What I always found amazing was when without any additions or rain one day my stabilizer was fine and the next day I was told it was too low, by a lot. One day apart, nothing done...

I may not have been clear. When you said your chart doesn't go over 10, we are going to assume you are using test strips. Test strips are cheap but the aren't that accurate. You need a good test kit with chemicals to be able to test higher levels of FC when doing a SLAM (shock) and also to be...

Welcome to TFP. It sounds like you need to get a test kit so you know where you're at. An important measurement to have is the CYA along with the FC. I recommend a TFT test kit - - > TFTestkits.net It would also be helpful if you added your pool info to your signature. Then there is some...

I'd drain another 1/3, refill and then test to see where you're at. Like Richard said, either way you'll need to SLAM it and being in Texas you'd likely want to have a higher CYA level. If the water was nasty green then a drain and fill might be a better fit but it sounds like your water isn't...

Looks like from the instructions you're good to add it to the skimmer and just go at least 48 hours before a backwash. HTH® Pre-measured Water Soluble Pods, Stabilizer | HTH® Pools .

:goodpost: What he said. Just use what you need to maintain the CYA, keep the bucket tightly sealed and when the CYA drops too far start using them again. If water in your area is expensive you should consider a solar cover if you don't have one yet. Cuts down on evaporation. .

Looks like the drop test is closest to 7.5 to me. This is why we don't trust test strips that much. .

Let Google be your friend. There is stuff on youtube and some guides on calibration that might answer your questions on that tester. PH-009(l)A - Google Search

And now is the time to put them to good use.

I know you said no heavy swim load, any chance more time in the spa than usual ?

If you added stabilizer on Friday it usually takes a week for it to fully dissolve and show up in the water so retesting it in two days is kind of a waste of the chemical. Hopefully when you say the CYA was 30 on Sunday that's your target and you haven't retested yet. Usually you just add the...

I'd start by adding enough muriatic acid to bring you 18K pool from 8.0 to 7.2 pH It likely won't bring it all the way down but it's someplace to start. Might need to do it twice or ... until you get a reading on the testers scale that matches something. .

As stated by Triptyx, muriatic acid is the way to go. You can use the "Pool Math" calculator to figure out how much to add to get to your target - - > PoolMath For your FC you want a minimum of three and it's much better if you maintain it between 5-7 Chlorine/CYA chart - - > Pool School -...

:wave: Welcome to TFP Ezbagr It's hard not to like a system that's cheap, easy and gets your water sparkling clean :lovetfp:

:wave: Welcome to TFP SunnyFL Sounds like you're on the way to better managing your pool. Can you post a photo or two of the black spots ?? .

I would keep the pH down in the low 7s where is should be rather than let it get up into the 8s, eye irritation, possible damage to equipment ... You said "they" weren't comfortable with the 11% bleach, was that supposed to be acid ?? As above, if you want to dilute it, your choice. Just make...

Sound like brushing is all you can do to try and circulate the water some. Instead of just adding a gallon a day why aren't you testing the water with your kit (K2006) and adding the appropriate amount of bleach ?? Can't do anything about the dirt till the pumps working again but netting out...

I've posted links to http://poncatechsquad.com/Dan/Chlorine/ in the past as it was a great tool for comparing different strengths and jug sizes of bleach as it reduced everything to cost per oz, same strength. Today it came up as a "Bad Request (Invalid Hostname)" Is there another I can use or...

Does your return waterfall into the pool or spray ?? I know on my inground if I aim the returns up so they're agitating the surface my pH will rise a lot more in a few days than when I have them down. Love the photo. My girl is to old to do the stairs getting in or out :(

Yup, the smaller kit would be just fine. Bromine and chlorine are tested with the same chemical and read on the same color chart it's just that the result numbers are different.

As mentioned above a lot of things will cause it. How often to you need to correct it and from what pH to what goal pH are you correcting ??

You don't have the pools equipment outlined in your signature so I'm not sure if this applies but it might also be due to how much you may have needed to backflush the filter if it's sand. Each time you backflush you are kicking out some CYA.

:wave: Welcome to TFP poohhbearr

Did it hold the FC overnight ?? If it rains enough that you need to dump some water it will mess with your readings. If you can try to maintain your SLAM through the day and do the loss test tonight (no rain) then you'll know for sure if you're good or not. As for the pool service, I'd call...

Thanks for the review. It's good to know since that price isn't much different than what you'd pay for regular CYA at Walmart (4 lb @ 12.77). Was disappointed to see Walmart in my area dripped HTH and went with Clorox chemicals. I don't know it for a fact but I'm guessing Clorox is just branding...