Had new pool put in and PH is 8.2, FC is 12.0, CC is 0.5, TA is 50 and CYA is 95. I just added 2.5 cups of baking soda. I also think I turned off chlorinator on OmniLogic. I am using TFTestkit and signed up for premium on pool math app. Does math app give guidance on what to add or can anyone help? I have 11,200 gallon fiberglass pool.
New Pool Already Off
- Thread starter Charlotte Will
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,259
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
The APP does give recommendations, but sometimes it's good to check here for additional notes. For example, the APP may tell you to lower the pH, increase the TA, or adjust something else, but we may tell you to exchange water first to lower the CYA. We also look for all of your pool and equipment info to make such decisions. Currently your signature is blank. See mine as an example.
Do you happen to know how the CYA got so high?
The APP does give recommendations, but sometimes it's good to check here for additional notes. For example, the APP may tell you to lower the pH, increase the TA, or adjust something else, but we may tell you to exchange water first to lower the CYA. We also look for all of your pool and equipment info to make such decisions. Currently your signature is blank. See mine as an example.Do you happen to know how the CYA got so high?
It’s been right at that since install a month ago. TA has gone from 30 to 50, FC from .5 to 12, and PH from 7.2 to 8.2. I have added 2 to 2 1/2 cups of baking soda three times.Welcome to TFP!
Do you happen to know how the CYA got so high?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,259
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
When the TA gets low but the pH is high, you end-up with a bit of a yo-yo game. You need to increase the TA, but that could allow the pH to rise faster. Since you have a SWG, often times the pH floats up a bit as well. Not sure if you have any other forms of aeration in the pool such as bubblers, spa spillover, waterfall, etc, but you need to keep the TA at 50 or above. No lower than 50. Once you do that, add only enough acid to lower the pH to 7.8. Too much acid at one time will lower the TA as well.
As for the CYA, it's high because someone along the way added too much stabilizer/conditioner, or continued to use some stabilized products. Regardless, a higher CYA means two things. You can either exchange some water to lower the CYA to about 70-80, or just leave it alone and ensure you maintain a slightly higher FC level for a pool with a CYA in the 90-100 range as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.
As for the CYA, it's high because someone along the way added too much stabilizer/conditioner, or continued to use some stabilized products. Regardless, a higher CYA means two things. You can either exchange some water to lower the CYA to about 70-80, or just leave it alone and ensure you maintain a slightly higher FC level for a pool with a CYA in the 90-100 range as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.
Thank you! I will turn on the waterfall and leave it on to help increase total alkalinity. I forgot about that.
Orion7319
Well-known member
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,288
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That won’t raise the TA, it will raise the PH.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,259
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes. Only run it when you need to circulate water through a spa or when you're actually in the pool and want to enjoy it.
And the pool builder did add 4 pounds of stabilizer a month ago. I think that’s all that’s been added. It has an auto feeder for muriatic acid.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,259
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Pool builders are sometimes the worst offenders of bad chemistry. All you can do now it is manage things from this point forward. At least now you know, and the CYA won't go up unless you add stabilizer on purpose. In the summer, your CYA may drop about 5-10 ppm per month depending on the intensity of the sun in your area and the amount of swimming/splashout.
Orion7319
Well-known member
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,288
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Or just add muriatic Acid. My TA wants to stay at 60 and my PH likes to stay between 7.6-7.8 my particular pool has reached an equilibrium with PH/TA. I have a vinyl pool however so I don’t have to worry about certain chemical parameters that folks with fiberglass or concrete pools have to worry about. I would follow Texas Splash’s recommendations. I know FG owners have to worry about their gel coats.
Orion7319
Well-known member
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,288
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
We have been getting a ton of rain around here lately. It dropped my CYA by 10ppm in a week a few weeks back.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The waterfall will over time raise pH. How much and how fast depends on how much water is going over and how far it's falling as that will effect the aeration of the water. Adding muratic acid will lower the pH to a more desirable range. Maybe shoot for around 7.6?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Same with me. Wasn't paying attention to salt as having a SWCG is new to me and over the winter needed to add water, salt didn't change. Now with all the rain I just noticed salt dripped to 2500 when it should be up around 3200. There are times the pool is more work than fun.
Orion7319
Well-known member
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,288
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yeah! I’m always dropping a 40lb bag of salt in the pool it seems. At least salt is cheap! Last year I was smarter about it then I am this year. I started last season with 8 bags of salt stored in my shed. This year I keep running to home depot for more each time.
Um, turn that back on. If you want to manage FC lower than your present 12, reduce the OmniLogic chlorinator % in increments rather than big swings or changes. For a rough approximation, if you want to reduce FC by 10%, reduce the chlorinator % by 10% of the % number it presently is (yes, it’s a very rough approximation with all the dynamics of FC in a pool which translates to reduce FC a little at a time by reducing chlorinator % a little at a time). Test frequently (I’d suggest every day) and get ‘er dialed in. It can be really easy to over or under compensate at first with a SWG (don’t ask how I know) and it seems that smaller proportionate changes make things easier to manage and dial in than drastic (turning it off seems drastic).
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Well I'm a little late in saying welcome, but welcome to TFP. Please add your pool/equipment info to your signature. - - > Create Your Signature - Further Reading
What SoDel said
I jumped in without thoroughly reading that first post. If that CYA reading is reliable the first thing you need to do is drain off about 1/5 of your water to lower that CYA level. No one wants to hear that but it's the only way. Recommended fiberglass levels - - > What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
I didn't catch that you think you may have turned off the chlorinator. You need to check and see if indeed you did as that will be a problem. Do you have any idea what percentage it was set at? Chlorinator percentage and pump run time will determine how much chlorine is produced and introduced into your pool. You can do one or the other to raise or lower the FC level. You need to remember that changing either will affect the FC production.
You need to make sure the chlorinator is on. If you have no idea where it was before and you do see it's "off" or at "0%" presently I'd suggest setting it to 50% and check in two or three days. Getting it set properly will be something of trial and error. Once you get it dialed in you might want to keep a record of % and run time for each month. I'm in Florida and I've found I need to change my % from summer to winter and then back again.
What SoDel said
I jumped in without thoroughly reading that first post. If that CYA reading is reliable the first thing you need to do is drain off about 1/5 of your water to lower that CYA level. No one wants to hear that but it's the only way. Recommended fiberglass levels - - > What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
I didn't catch that you think you may have turned off the chlorinator. You need to check and see if indeed you did as that will be a problem. Do you have any idea what percentage it was set at? Chlorinator percentage and pump run time will determine how much chlorine is produced and introduced into your pool. You can do one or the other to raise or lower the FC level. You need to remember that changing either will affect the FC production.
You need to make sure the chlorinator is on. If you have no idea where it was before and you do see it's "off" or at "0%" presently I'd suggest setting it to 50% and check in two or three days. Getting it set properly will be something of trial and error. Once you get it dialed in you might want to keep a record of % and run time for each month. I'm in Florida and I've found I need to change my % from summer to winter and then back again.
I’ve had zero chlorine for four days. Pool is brand new with swg and autochem dispenser for MA. Pool builder came out yesterday and turned MA on, somehow it never got turned on and recommended I super chlorinate (which I think I did), but still no chlorine. At the time, the pump seemed like it was on very high. It’s confusing to tell because pool school only showed how to use the OmniLogic phone app, which the PB agreed doesn’t work or seem connected. I am trying to reach Hayward help desk about that. Does the pump being on high indicate it was trying to super chlorinate? Is it safe just to go to liquid chlorine and how much should I add for first treatment - hopefully soon! Also, is it safe to swim now since I can still easily see the bottom?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,259
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes & yes. Be sure to elevated your FC to the appropriate level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. If your salt cell is not on or operating, then use the Liquid Chlorine tab on that chart and increase your FC to the target range to avoid algae. If you have more questions about your equipment, feel free to post back.