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You’ll want a timer for the SWG. The flow switch is a safety device and should not be relied on for daily operation.

A newly filled sandfilter (new sand or reused sand) should always be completely backwashed and throughly rinsed before setting the system to filter. Re: your posts. Simply click on your user name at the upper right of the page.

Agreed. Set the multi-port to recirculate if you can, this will bypass the filter housing, but keep the water circulating.

It will be interesting to see if there is a noticeable difference if you switch media. I would guess at night with the pool light on should show a difference. Do they say it’s necessary to use their chemicals to maintain that 10 micron filtering capability? BTW- A properly maintained sand...

I’m curious why you have chosen this product? I’m also curious why you peruse it after the company who makes it doesn’t even know they make it, or even return your calls? Thank goodness you are just inquiring, and not dealing with ingestion or another emergency situation.

The sand in a filter of a properly maintained pool should last the life of the filter. Sand has been here for millions of years, a decade in a filter is nothing compared to the abuse of crashing waves for millions of years. Your post is contradicting... if the glass is supposed to catch fine...

The blue is a primer, and is required in the US. The PVC glue is clear. Where is Victoria Park located? You should add that to your location.

Pat is correct, they are little 'stoppers' that you put into the wall fittings to stop the flow of water when you clean or replace your filter cartridge. Dom

So sorry to see you getting taken advantage of. Fire that pool company immediately. Are they even testing the water before they add anything? Your first step is your own proper test kit as Jim has mentioned. I guarantee that you’ll save more than the cost of the test kit in the first few...

Your owners manual should list the part number for that part. Search the Intex website, they carry thousands of replacement parts.

I’m not sure about the gravel, but I’m curious..... If the manufacturer is not recommending it, why are you pursuing this? What’s the motivation?

A proper filter and pump.

No problem there, the liner is plenty taught.

Second best thing I did for our Ultra Frame was add a thru-wall skimmer (link in signature), and change to all standard 1-1/2” Hayward wall fittings. I also have a 1-1/2HP power flow matrix pump, and use the original suction port (with Hayward fittings) as a dedicated vacuum port. I use a leaf...

The filter should only be about 1/2-2/3 full. Are you planning to deep clean the filter? https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/73192-Deep-Cleaning-a-Sand-Filter

I have just about the same filter, so I’m sure it’s the same MPV as yours. As others have already stated, you have the filter hooked up backwards.

Again, proper pool filter sand should not do this at all. Usually this is the result of using clarifiers and flocculants. Something is binding the sand together, and it’s not sodium hypochlorite, muriatic acid, CYA, or baking soda.

What was this ‘stabilizer/conditioner’? Was it pure CYA? What form of chlorine are you using? Have you been using any Clorox bleach with ‘Cloro-max technology’? Proper pool filter sand should never get hard like that from just sodium hypochlorite, muriatic acid, and CYA. Are you certain the...

What have you added to the pool besides chlorine or muriatic acid? Any use of flocculants, clarifiers, or other pool ‘potions’?

I still doubt they grew there, there is zero sunlight inside that filter, just about everything green needs sunlight to grow.

As far as I’m aware, proper levels of chlorine over the proper amount of time will destroy anything organic. Can you please elaborate on exactly what ‘cooties’ you are referring to?

Are you certain they are growing there? In a properly sanitized pool, nothing organic should be able to grow. Any trees overhead?

Backwash until the water is running fully clear, than rinse for 60 seconds. I believe that with my previous 14” Intex sandfilter I would backwash for 2-1/2 minutes, then rinse for at least 60 seconds.

When I had my Intex Sandfilter system I found that I needed to rinse for at least 60 seconds otherwise I would always find a bit of filter sand and debris returning to the pool after a backwash.

As long as it was specifically 'Pool Filter Sand', you should be fine. Have you noticed any sand being blown into the pool from the return jets? Here is the thread from a few years ago describing the issues found with a specific lot of Quickcrete Pool Filter Sand...

What is the upper limit of the CYA test?

No worries, if you are willing to learn, we are willing to teach. I’m not too familiar with the Color Q, does it require regular calibration? When you re-test, be sure to get a CYA level. As mentioned, do you have algae. Does ‘fine dirt’ collect on the floor, the kind that poofs away when...

Welcome to the forum. Those test results are a bit confusing/misleading. TC cannot be lower than FC, as TC is the sum of FC + CC (FC+CC=TC). CC would never be a negative value. Both chlorine & bromine are listed, is this a chlorine pool or a bromine pool? What is your CYA level? Your...

Is there a pressure gauge on the filter? The general recommendation is to clean the filters when the pressure rises 20-25% over the freshly cleaned pressure, eg if the pressure right after installing freshly cleaned carts is 20psi, you should clean when the pressure reaches 24-25psi.

How big is your SWG? Most SWG’s will take hours to create 3-4ppm of FC, that is hardly ‘super chlorinated’. Also, if you have your SWG cell set to run within the running time of your pump, the cell will shut off before the pump, so the pump will have time to ‘flush out’ the cell. But back on...