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You certain the pump female fitting isn’t cracked? If it leaks more when tightening that’s a sure sign.

Simply make a U to then add in the swg and flow switch.

I’d definitely cut out all that copper.

Just how old is this pool? Copper connections to a skimmer screams old imo.

Did you wait for the water to stop dropping and then surmise by the height that it might be a connection at the bottom of the skimmer?

It’s all mainly labour as you’ve noted.

My point is it’s unnecessary. Sand filters do not require DE or anything else to do their job. If one wants finer filtration then convert to a cartridge filter.

I’d also add that DE is a carcinagetic.

Arts and crafts might have caused a poorly glued elbow at the bottom of that pipe.

Replace and lube a new oring in that union.

Just remember that when air leaks are ruled out, it can only be two more things, suction side or pressure side has a restriction of some sort. Are you certain you don’t have a compromised pipe on the suction side?

Add to the above, if water is too high on the face of skimmer this will reduce surface skimming.

I would be highly suspicious of your skimmer.

That bits just going to end up in your pump basket is my opinion, but just to be sure it won’t get into the pump impeller, you could take a similarly sized bit and see if it will go through the holes in the pump basket.

Go with the 1.5” elbows

Normally one would want the pool plumbed in this manner, pump to solar, solar to heat pump, then the salt cell. The Chlorine the cell produces can do damage to your panels.

I’d say it’s plugged because unless you’re using an equalizer plate the main drain won’t pull anything.

If you have extra money laying around why not, if you don’t you can take it apart, suction out the sand and inspect the laterals. I’d be shocked if they are really damaged.

Unions or valves break from being over tightened, ppl over tighten them perhaps due to misalignment from first install, requiring additional force to stop leaks. Lots of lube on o rings can solve a lot of leak issues.

Two thoughts come to mind, physically moving that skimmer down a foot or you could simply plumb a flexible piece of pvc out the mouth of the skimmer, of course it’s glued into a mpt fitting that screws into the port at the bottom of the skimmer.

Garden hose on the spigot at the pump pressure side, that’s why it’s there. Or a hose, fully loaded with water, plug end, drag it to a spot lower that the pools water, let it siphon off, best thing is you place the end in the pool at the level you want the water with no fear of it going too low.

Firstly, do not open main drain and skimmer when trying to prime, close the main drain, fill the pump basket to over flowing, let a lot run down that line, basket lid back on then turn pump on, you will see the water in the basket be quickly sucked out, depending on how far away your skimmer is...

Your pool is inundated with pollen in the spring. I stand by me opinion that’s not sand but is dead algae.

I say that’s not sand but dead algae, your pump will push it right through the sand. Vacuum to waste and I’m betting it’s going to look a lot better.

Water height affects that visible pull of a skimmer. Half way up the mouth is optimal.

I’ve plumbed thousands of pumps using sched 40 white pvc unions or fittings with zero leaks. 3-5 wraps of pink Teflon tape, tightened then glued with the appropriate glue for rigid or flex pvc. I suspect OP has a hairline crack somewhere.

You’ve got it covered.

AG return fittings have two rubber gaskets and a cork one, the rubber ones go are fitted so they snug up against the liner and the outside wall. The cork one goes on last on the outside wall. The cork is so it can be tightened to form a good seal with the rubber ones squeezing the liner and...

No vacuum relief valve should leak under load, it’s defective.

If you’ve got money buying a hole in your pocket, yes. Most pools can use a cartridge replacement ever 15 years or so if they are ruined. i have pumps on pools that are still running at 25+ yrs.