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Hey TFP friends, especially @setsailsoon and @JamesW --- Ironically, the heater finally had some issues in the middle of the night. I had to shut her down-- banging noises, switching on and off constantly. So today I opened up the headers. Tons of loose scale! I cleaned it out beautifully...

Chris, I have never used non-recommended chemicals! I'll have to get a test kit that measures calcium hardness. Jason

Thanks, @JamesW When I added drips of hydrochloric acid on the flakes, the white coating slightly bubbled away, leaving the flakes even more blue and brown color. The blues and browns in these crusty pieces still concerns me. The articles above (thanks) state the substance is white. Would it...

@JamesW the flakes barely react with drops of hydrochloric acid. They do not dissolve. I opened up the salt cell housing, removed the salt cell and I found some of the flakes in the housing, see photo. Assuming the flakes are from the Raypak's tube bundle is that a sign of imminent...

thanks again, James. I looked in the cell when I cleaned it three weeks ago. In the clear housing that the cell sits in I do see some evidence of that sediment. Not much though. I can remove the cell tomorrow and examine it more carefully. The sediment is not attracted to a magnet. The...

James, The salt cell is clean now. When minerals build up it looks nothing like the type of sediment I'm getting now. The sediment has blues and greens in it whereas the mineral buildup on the salt cell is only white. The problem of the sediment did begin longer than three weeks ago. I have...

James, The heater manifold is the high strength polymer material offered on the Raypak 206A. The heat exchange is made of copper. The salt cell is relatively clean. I did a full cleaning on it about three weeks ago. I'll double check on the particles and a magnet. Jason

Chris, sure, I feel like I always am. I replaced the impeller yesterday. I replaced all the seals, including the upgraded US Seal for the impeller shaft a few weeks ago. I replaced the spider gasket in my Hayward sand filter about six weeks ago. I replaced the pump motor a year ago with a...

Hi TFP friends and experts, Just recently I'm seeing this strange sediment in front of my returns. This is in an indoor SWG pool which runs year round and has ideal chemistry. I backwash regularly and the pressure is good as well. Any idea what it might be? Jason

I’m replacing my shaft seal again, this time with the nice US Seal PS-3868. Though now that I have the impeller removed, maybe the culprit is a worn impeller shaft. Here are some pictures. The black ABS pedestal nearest the shaft seems worn. Especially compared to pictures of a new one! Replace it?

Hi TFP friends, My fantastic 1-year old VGreen motor has been ransacked by salt water. It's connected to a Hayward SuperPump II. I think I discovered it early enough, thankfully. The motor still runs as expected. I have the full GOKIT3-SALT set of gaskets ready to install. My question to the...

@Bama Rambler the timer is at least five years old. It was installed when I bought the house. If it is dead, I'm thinking of getting a new timer (maybe not Intermatic), adding a GFCI outlet, and maybe some remote control functionality. This is for an indoor pool. The pump closet is protected...

Thanks @Bama Rambler and @Jimrahbe . I have no display on my P1353ME and the relays don't function. 1. 240V Voltage reads properly on pins 1,2,3,& 5. 2. I removed the jumper connecting 5 & 7. 3. I verified the Core35 works as expected when plugged into a GFCI outlet. 4. I verified the fuse on...

Wow, I'm stumped. I wired it correctly. I'm going to try to wire a plug to the Core35 and try plugging it into a GFCI to see if it functions as expected. I wonder if circuit 3 is meant for 240V. Maybe it's only for low power devices? Any other advice? --Jason

Guys, The manual says, The Circupool Core 35 Control Module uses a switch-mode power supply designed to automatically accept either 120VAC or 220VAC. I see no ability to set it myself. I thought I wired it correctly. But the P1353ME went into protection mode. The breaker didn’t trip. I think...

thanks @Bama Rambler and @Jimrahbe . Does it matter which wire of the SWCG's cord I connect to L1 and L2 to pin 8?

Jim, thanks again. The Core35 has a power cord coming out of it typically used to plug into a GFCI. My intention was always to wire it into the Intermatic. Good thing, because the unit shipped with wire leads as opposed to a standard wall plug. I have the black wire connected to pin 7 and the...

Jim, My wiring matches what you've drawn, thanks for the effort. The only addition is you're bringing L1 from pin 1 to pin 8, right? Is your notation at the lower-right of the image showing the voltage stepped down from 220 to 120? The Circupool Core 35 Control Module uses a switch-mode power...

Jim, Yes, my 2-speed pump works at both speeds and yes, it runs on 240V. The pump's hot wire is on pin 1. The common is on pin 4, The red wire is on pin 6. I think I want the SWCG to run on 240V...more efficient, right?.

Jim, Thanks for your insight. I have pin 2 jumped to pin 7 for the SWCG. You're right--my diagram is wrong. How should I get L1 (pin 1) to circuit 3? I attached an updated diagram.

Hi Bama, I was hoping you'd answer. You seem very prolific on this site! I tested the voltage using a multimeter. First test between terminals 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, then 5 & 6, then 7 & 8. All read 240V except for 7 & 8, which read zero. When I test between terminals 1 & 8 I also get 240V. My...

Hi friends, I bought a Circupool Core35 SWG. It's getting no power on circuit 3. I've attached a photo and a drawn wiring diagram. I used a multimeter on each circuit. #1 and #2 read 240V when the circuit is turned off. When circuits 1 or 2 are on, the voltage reads zero, which hopefully is an...