Intermatic P1353ME - no power on circuit 3

Dec 10, 2017
37
Parker/CO
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool Core-35
Hi friends,
I bought a Circupool Core35 SWG. It's getting no power on circuit 3. I've attached a photo and a drawn wiring diagram. I used a multimeter on each circuit. #1 and #2 read 240V when the circuit is turned off. When circuits 1 or 2 are on, the voltage reads zero, which hopefully is an expected behavior. Circuit 3 always reads zero. The P1353ME is in Mode 2.

The first hurdle is to actually get power to the Core35.
The second hurdle--maybe not a hurdle at all--is that my Raypak heater shows a Hi Limit Fault when the pump shuts off. Is this ok? It was wired this way and seems to have been fine for almost 4 years. Perhaps there is a better way to wire the Raypak.

Thanks, all of you experts, hobbyists, and helpful contributors!
--Jason
 

Attachments

  • intermatic PE1353ME wiring.jpeg
    intermatic PE1353ME wiring.jpeg
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  • pool wiring intermatic P1353ME.pdf
    161.7 KB · Views: 26
Hi Bama, I was hoping you'd answer. You seem very prolific on this site! I tested the voltage using a multimeter. First test between terminals 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, then 5 & 6, then 7 & 8. All read 240V except for 7 & 8, which read zero. When I test between terminals 1 & 8 I also get 240V. My jumper wires connect terminals 2, 3, 5, and 7.
 
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Jason.

I can't understand how you can have 240 when you test between 1 and 8... :scratch: This assumes your diagram is correct..

To get 240 you would need to measure between L1 (Black) and L2 (white)... Pin 1 is L1 and L2 does not appear to go to your SWCG at all?????

If you are trying to run your SWCG off of 240... You need to have L1 going through circuit 3 and then to the SWCG's power center... And L2 going directly to your SWCG's power center..

Did you just leave that off the diagram???

Also.. If you get 240 when you test between 1 and 8, then 7 to 8 must also read 240 as pin 1 is jumpered to pin 7..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jim,
Thanks for your insight.
If you are trying to run your SWCG off of 240... You need to have L1 going through circuit 3 and then to the SWCG's power center... And L2 going directly to your SWCG's power center..
I have pin 2 jumped to pin 7 for the SWCG. You're right--my diagram is wrong.
How should I get L1 (pin 1) to circuit 3?

I attached an updated diagram.
 

Attachments

  • pool wiring intermatic P1353ME.pdf
    3.2 MB · Views: 16
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Jason,

What voltage do you want the SWCG's power supply to get??? If 240 volts, then the SWCG's power center must get both L1 and L2...

Tell me how you have it wired now...

Does your 2-speed pump work?? If so, your diagram can't be correct. You have the common to the pump as L1 and you are using the same L1 as the input to the low and high speed..

Just so that we are both on the same page and that I am not just confused... I am assuming that your 2-speed pump operates off of 240 volts.. Is that correct?? I am also assuming that you want your SWCG to also operate off of 240 volts... Is that correct??

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jason


img075-1.jpg


In my mind, this is how it should be.. Make sure you double check to make sure your system is wired correctly... I have no way to tell for sure how yours is wired.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim,
Yes, my 2-speed pump works at both speeds and yes, it runs on 240V. The pump's hot wire is on pin 1. The common is on pin 4, The red wire is on pin 6.
I think I want the SWCG to run on 240V...more efficient, right?.
 
Jim,
My wiring matches what you've drawn, thanks for the effort. The only addition is you're bringing L1 from pin 1 to pin 8, right? Is your notation at the lower-right of the image showing the voltage stepped down from 220 to 120? The Circupool Core 35 Control Module uses a switch-mode power supply designed to automatically accept either 120VAC or 220VAC, so can I just wire L1 from pin 1 to pin 8? Is it better to run the SWG @ 220V?

According to the manual, "When used with variable-speed or other electronically controlled pumps, you may wish to wire the Control Module directly to your power source. This will allow the pump to determine when the Cell is energized or dormant by activation of the Flow Switch."

So maybe I shouldn't be wiring it to circuit 3. I should wire it directly to L1 and L2 (pin 1 and pin 2) using wire nuts?

I also have that concern with the Raypak going into Hi Limit Fault due to the pump being off or at the lower speed. Maybe I should be wiring the Raypak differently?

Jason
 
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The only addition is you're bringing L1 from pin 1 to pin 8, right?

Jason,

I did NOT jumper pin 1 to pin 8. If you do this you will blow up the timer as soon as you turn on Circuit 3!!!!!!

What I did was to add a line that I suspect it already there.. I was just trying to show that for your diagram to work, that there has to be a wire from pin 1 to one input of the SWCG's power center.. The other input to the power center comes in from pin 8 when the relay closes...

Before you turn your timer on, please tell me what wires you have connected to your power center.. You should have L1 going into one side of the 240 input and L2 going into the other side of the input..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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I bought a Circupool Core35 SWG. It's getting no power on circuit 3. I've attached a photo and a drawn wiring diagram. I used a multimeter on each circuit. #1 and #2 read 240V when the circuit is turned off. When circuits 1 or 2 are on, the voltage reads zero, which hopefully is an expected behavior.
While not the normal way to test voltage it works if you remember to interpret the readings backwards.
The proper way to test it is to test between L1 and #2, #4, #6, & #8 terminals when the circuit is energized.
However, I have a wiring diagram that I'd like you to think about using. I can rework it to match your current incoming voltage connection if you don't want to change the current wiring.

Circuit 3 always reads zero. The P1353ME is in Mode 2.
That's because circuit 3 isn't wired correctly. :)

The first hurdle is to actually get power to the Core35.
See attached diagram.

The second hurdle--maybe not a hurdle at all--is that my Raypak heater shows a Hi Limit Fault when the pump shuts off. Is this ok? It was wired this way and seems to have been fine for almost 4 years. Perhaps there is a better way to wire the Raypak.
It's definitely a hurdle See attached diagram. The heater going into high limit is an issue that needs to be corrected. You need to hook the firemans switch as shown below so that the heater shuts down before the pump stops.

Thanks, all of you experts, hobbyists, and helpful contributors!
--Jason

I don't show the grounds but as you show, they go to everything.
Also, you can leave the heater power hooked up like you show it even though I don't have it on the drawing below.

P1353ME Mode 2 Wiring - Firemans Sw.jpg
 
Jason,

I did NOT jumper pin 1 to pin 8. If you do this you will blow up the timer as soon as you turn on Circuit 3!!!!!!

What I did was to add a line that I suspect it already there.. I was just trying to show that for your diagram to work, that there has to be a wire from pin 1 to one input of the SWCG's power center.. The other input to the power center comes in from pin 8 when the relay closes...

Before you turn your timer on, please tell me what wires you have connected to your power center.. You should have L1 going into one side of the 240 input and L2 going into the other side of the input..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Jim,
thanks again. The Core35 has a power cord coming out of it typically used to plug into a GFCI. My intention was always to wire it into the Intermatic. Good thing, because the unit shipped with wire leads as opposed to a standard wall plug. I have the black wire connected to pin 7 and the white-red wire connected to pin 8. Should I just add a new piece of wire connecting pin 1 and pin 8? Pin 1 already has three wires connected to it.

@Bama Rambler suggests in his beautiful diagram to connect the SWCG L1 to pin 8 and L2 to pin 2. But that assumes that all jumpers come from pin 1 instead of pin 2.
 
Guys,
The manual says,
The Circupool Core 35 Control Module uses a switch-mode power supply designed to automatically accept either 120VAC or 220VAC.

I see no ability to set it myself.

I thought I wired it correctly. But the P1353ME went into protection mode. The breaker didn’t trip. I think the P1353ME stays in protection mode for 24 hours. I’ll verify my wiring and try again tomorrow.

Jason
 
Wow, I'm stumped. I wired it correctly. I'm going to try to wire a plug to the Core35 and try plugging it into a GFCI to see if it functions as expected. I wonder if circuit 3 is meant for 240V. Maybe it's only for low power devices? Any other advice? --Jason
 
Circuit 3 is designed for the same rating as the other two circuits. The only 'protection' mode I see in the 1353 manual is the freeze protection circuit.
I read some of the manual for the Core 35 and it says that it auto senses the voltage.
 
Thanks @Bama Rambler and @Jimrahbe . I have no display on my P1353ME and the relays don't function.
1. 240V Voltage reads properly on pins 1,2,3,& 5.
2. I removed the jumper connecting 5 & 7.
3. I verified the Core35 works as expected when plugged into a GFCI outlet.
4. I verified the fuse on the back of the P1353ME is not blown.

Do you think the P1353ME clock mechanism is dead? Any other testing or solutions I should try before purchasing a replacement?

Do I have to 'fess up to my wife on spending $250 to replace the unit yet?

Jason
 
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