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Interesting. I sent them an email, not sure if I can do just a bulb swap, or if the whole housing+wire needs to be run. I don't want a housing seal issue to ruin any replacement bulb.

I see some OmniLogig software updates say this. i've never updated the soft/firmware of my controller though...

My hayward light just went. Again. First light lasted from 2014-2017, and then the free replacement 2017-2021. This one easily has under 100 hours on it of actual run time. Iit turns on to full white for a bit, then switches to the color. After a minute it drops out, with only a faint glow...

Hey, mine just keeled over this very night. SP3400VSP with Drive Error - stall issue. It tries to prime, and chugs once or twice and then flashes errors. I can move the impeller by hand (well, with a pencil) and it was holding suction. Fired an email off to Hayward, and the local authorized...

Well the point of using liquid chlorine was to not need to drain the pool due to high CYA, but if the salt piles up then I guess it doesn’t matter either way. What was your reading?

Well, not salt but sodium, right? Years ago I did a side by side strip test of the pre and post softened water and the strips showed a much higher "salt" level. Or else it's from years of using liquid chlorine...

I meant opaque. I’ll need obliques to lift them out of the water. Yes I’m not sure I am committed or capable of taking them on and off every night and every morning. More likely when there’s a three or four day stretch coming up where nobody’s going to be swimming I will throw them on.

I've committed to building some pvc frame 4.5x4.5' cover squares we can toss on the pool when not in use. Evaporation is accelerating total pool water replacement due to either fill water with high calcium, or fill water post-softener that increases salt. The solar covers available to trim...

Or would it be better to just cut some blue bubble wrap style cover to our pool. How hard are those to pull out and tuck away for parties/swimming?

hm, here we go. why does everything need a design?! Spring solar mat Also, too small. right idea though.

After 5 years of leaving the water exposed 365 days a year, our salt level (softened fill) is unmanagable and a refill is needed. I'd like to reduce evaporation to cut back on the amount of fill water needed. I am not looking for a safety cover, or even a "solar" cover. Just evaporation...

So far...just one person. Maybe this is not the issue I thought it was?

Yeah i thought about that option. I suppose you would have to try it in a small spot first to see how deep the bleaching is

Admittedly with a pebble Tec surface like we have, it can be harder to detect mottling or that pocked look. We had some streaking generally, but it was minor and it was there from the first month of the pool. This is a pool-wide removal of the color from the blue plaster that holds all the...

5 years after our pool was installed, all the color has faded from the plaster. It was noticeable even after three years. OnBalance has posted about this, with examples. The builder of course doesn't see the problem, or blames high TDS and TA of 45. So I am trying to get other examples, either...

Yeah well either the calcium would be high or the salt will be high or the CYA will be high. Honestly there probably isn’t a way around refreshing the water every year or two. And yeah I’m sure they don’t have any study or anything that shows how total dissolved solids would remove the color...

Ive kept our pool in tfp happy zones for 5 years. Cya around 60, ph 7.7, ta is 45 ish. Salt is 5000 due to liquid chlorine and water softener? Anyway, our travertine is crumbling beneath our feet, but not immediately around the pool line. It’s spread all over the deck in random places. And we...

oh man what do I have. posting to see my sig

Manually scrubbing stairs and light niches can help expose some of that stubborn algae

A shock is a one time chlorine bomb on the pool, which is not effective at actually killing all of the algae. And if you/he dont maintain the minimum FC level shown in the cya/fc chart, you will get in an endless "its cloudy/shock it" cycle. I think it's a dubious solution

I can vouch, I had mobile RO run on my pool, and it took 4 days I think to get the CH down to 200. With the amount of waste water...I would have been better off just draing 3/4 of the pool. HOWEVER, my fill line is on a softerner. If you drain and refill with just tap water, doesn't really...

The hayward niche is attached to the gunite, i am not sure how that would work but i will look into it. Pretty sure my dad's single bulb light from 1981 is still working...

Our pool was built in 2014, and the Universal Color Logic LED just went dead. Three summers, less that 1000 hours illumination. The warranty is one year. Needless to say, I am not wanting to give Hayward my money for another poorly designed light. I already have a $400 remote that can't...

I'm not sure it's entirely the salt; some of the travertine not near the pool is exhibiting the same thing. I'll get a pic soon. The travertine was "filled"/smooth, and I think it's the filling that is falling out. The CH is back up to 450 after a few weeks. But my test chemicals got left...

If you stare at the ground for 5 seconds, then glance at the tube, can you see it? When you get to that point, round up to the nearest 5 for a little headroom.

It can be helpful for spas, maybe because it is new you can resell it. Mine is just hanging on the wall, disconnected.

why are you letting the FC drift down if the pool is cloudy? Clear water is one of the three criteria you must pass before stopping the slam. Make sure to re-read the SLAM article.

Ya every post here was talking about a truck. I get home to a HAND truck.