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For those who have an Ollie's They have it for $4.99 /gal. It is 10% though, they used to carry 12.5%. I had a coupon for 15% off so it was $4.25 out the door. Compared to CountryMax who has an ad out there right now for $29.99 for a case of 4. Jeez

Ollie's has a 15% off store wide until July 4th. Great time to pick up some 12.5% if you need it. ~$2.50/gallon.

Congrats! You did a great job keeping at it. Wait til your Dad sees it. Be sure to tell him how much it cost you to clean it up.

Have you checked Ollie's? There is one not far from you. $2.99/gal for 12.5%. Even better with a coupon.

Nope, it's 1 inch pucks in there, they last forever. BTW, I took one of the bac pac's when it was empty, cut in half, then filled it with 1" tabs from the store and sealed it up with electrical tape. Works great for the few times I need to use it and it's much cheaper. You could take those...

I think it's a great idea! I'd also use the OTO test to confirm it wasn't going to high, that's all.

I agree, it will not show a true number. There is always risk, adding based on previous day's numbers could also be bad if not as much chlorine starts getting consumed. Here's a thread with a pic of the OTO test with orange color. And away we go!!! Started conversion tonight. Lots of PIPs...

The pool did not get that way after only a few days, it's going to take more than a few days to clear it up. You are really doing great!!! If I lived near you I'd give you the 0871 I just ordered and just get another one. One thing you could try is next time you run a FC test, run the block...

Use 6% in Pool Math and set the target to 18 to see if you can get it higher. Looks like it keeps getting consumed because of the organic matter in the pool. You're doing great. It's not going to hold at shock level until it is finished killing everything. Oooh. I see you picked up new...

FYI, I would not remove the frog, just remove the bac-pac and mineral pac for now. I still have mine installed, and I use it for vacations. I drilled out the mineral pac and removed all the minerals and then just use a bac pac. As long as you are aware of the effects of the chemicals, it works...

Thanks so much for the info. I appreciate it.

It's looking better. Nice job keeping at it!! I can attest to the Chlorine at Ollie's if you can make it there. It's always strong for me.

Everyone's doing a great job with their advice, so nothing new to add except: Great job so far and keep at it.

This is a good post. Another thing is with high CC's you could be fighting ammonia, which will consume your chlorine rapidly.

That's perfectly normal. You are going to continue to lose chlorine as it consumes the junk in your pool. The more often you can check and re-add, the better. (allowing for 1/2-1 hour to mix.) It's using it up fast which is why I recommended you go a little higher to keep it up there longer...

Add enough to get it to 16 (or slightly above) before bed and then attack it again when you get up.

Add some more. Nice job keeping up with it.

Shock for you is 16 correct? So at 13.2 you needed to add some. You want to keep it at 16 as much as possible. What I am saying is that it wouldn't hurt to set the target to 18 and add the chlorine so it stays at or above 16 for a longer period. 18 is not very much more above 16 and will not...

Keep going. It won't hurt to overshoot your shock number by a couple. Keeping it at/slightly above shock level will help clear it faster.

Exactly. Don't backwash just for the sake of it, your filter will actually work better with some debris. once the pressure increases 20% over normal pressure, you can backwash. pH test is unreliable when FC > 10 so only test FC/CC until you are clear.

Nothing to say other than it looks like you got this, keep at it. Can't wait to see this one get clear.

Nice job! To answer your question, just chlorine/bleach in liquid form for chlorine. Then maybe some borax or soda ash for pH, baking soda for TA and acid to lower pH, but these are only as needed. Not sure where you were getting your bleach, but I see there is an Ollie's near you and they...

Yup. Go ahead and add it. BTW, the High CC level might mean you have ammonia in your pool (it can be converted from CYA) You may need more chlorine than we originally thought as will consume your chlorine very fast. Add and let's test in an hour and see what we have. You are running your...

Ok, great. Let's see your next test results, then you'll know how much chlorine you'll need to add.

Yes, if you can get 4 gallons of that for $6.99 that is a crazy good deal. That's strong enough.

Haha. I always go in Greece. They call it Chlorine Shock, their pool display is right in front as you walk in. They had 2 pallets, but it had dwindled to about 15 cases on Monday. Here's a pic from their ad. http://f.wishabi.net/page_items/25903988/1431582110/extra_large.jpg

:goodpost: If you can get stronger strength (10%, 12.5% even better) you will need less jugs. There's no telling yet exactly how much, the more muck you can get out by hand, the less you will need. Nice job on the Pool Math, 409oz was exactly what I calculated using the numbers you provided...

Awesome! I'm from Rochester too! Where did you get that heater? How much do you suspect it costs you to run it. I'm interested.

Your pH of 7.4 is fine. Based on your pool size, 107 oz of stabilizer should get you to CYA = 40, now that it's being added, just assume it is 40 and don't retest for that. It won't show up for about a week. Now for your chlorine,you need to SLAM. Check Chlorine / CYA Chart for CYA of 40...

No, I mean don't dump the whole bottle. Looks like you are OK. Also, when adding acid, it's better to add less than you think you need (like half) and then retest. It's always easy to add more, but you can't take it out. Sometimes we don't have the volume correct on the pool or might make...