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Your FC is way too low. The bare minimum for CYA of 50 is 4 ppm. You need to that pool and then maintain FC above 4 ppm at all times.

That's an Intex aboveground pool. You can drain it completely with no problem.

Then add 20 ppm of CYA with some granulated stabilizer and give it 48 hours to dissolve, then retest.

This is true until the system is paid for. But once it is, it becomes money in your pocket. My system is warrantied for 85% production at 25 years. It will be paid for long before that.

One gallon of 12.5% bleach in a 6k gallon pool should have raised your FC by 21 ppm. That's way high. It's unlikely your pool used that much chlorine overnight unless it is an absolute swamp. How does your water look? So I have to wonder about your testing. You state that you have a DPD test...

Are you testing CYA with the Taylor kit or the test strips? Personally, I would throw the test strips away. Yes they are easy, but they are also frequently wrong. You might as well just pick numbers at random.

Don't worry about the Chlorox salt - I've used it for years with no issues. Use to determine how much stabilizer (100% cyanuric acid, or CYA) to add to achieve 60 ppm in your water. Use the sock method described in Pool School to start it dissolving. It will take a couple of days to register...

I turn my waterfall and fountain on periodically just to flush out any stagnant water in the plumbing that may be harboring algae.

Keep in mind energy costs are likely to increase.

Sorry, I forgot about cal hypo. You're correct, that does not raise CYA.

You realize powdered shock is raising your CYA level, right? You're not out of range yet, so that's okay as long as you recognize it and the increased FC level it will require. Since you will likely need to perform a SLAM soon, be wary of raising CYA any more. It'll only require more chlorine...

www.reef2reef.com for saltwater aquarium keeping. It's very similar to this site. www.cloudynights.com for amateur astronomy. I have hobbies.

How do the pros do it? Badly.

As the pools fills it will push out on the legs. Even once it's full, you can still lift up on them and slide them a bit to adjust if needed. They don't bear a lot of weight -- that's mostly borne by the liner on the ground.

pH levels are not correct with FC > 10, so let the FC drop first before worrying about the pH.

3-4 years isn't too old as these things go, but mine acted like that (ie. worked sporadically) when it failed earlier this year. Luckily for you, a replacement cell is available for just $500 if you need one. https://www.inyopools.com/Products/44401352084710.htm

Now that's how to build a pool!

Before we go overboard with recommendations and adding stuff to the pool, we need a reliable set of test results. All I've seen so far are those from the pool tech, and we have no idea how he arrived at those numbers. I've seen those guys use test strips before. So the very first thing to do is...

What is your current CYA? 2 ppm FC is very low. Any time you drop below the minimum for your CYA, you run the risk of algae. 1 gallon of LC in your pool will boost your FC by almost 4 ppm. So I'm guessing that each time you add you are achieving 6 ppm, then over the next 3 days it drops to 2...

It sounds like you crossed up the chemicals for the CC test. After you've finished the FC test, add *only 5 drops* of R-0003 to the water. If it stays clear, your CC is zero. If it turns pink, add and count the drops of R-0871 it takes to turn clear again.

Wow! I'd have to replace that liner. 😉

From : "Combined chlorine is an intermediate breakdown product created in the process of sanitizing the pool. CC causes the “chlorine” smell many people associate with chlorine pools. If CC is above 0.5ppm, you should SLAM your pool. CC indicates that there is something in the water that the FC...

Have they added the words "Splashless" or "Easy Pour" to the label? Splashless bleach has an additive that causes it to foam up like that. It goes away in a couple of days and isn't harmful AFAIK. But it does leave a slimy ring around the pool.

How low has it been dropping before you add more, especially on the days you're only testing twice? Every time the FC drops below SLAM level, it extends the length of the SLAM. Keeping FC at SLAM level as often as possible is key to making the SLAM work.

Well, you've reached a decision point - are you going to follow the TFP method or the Pentair rep? Because the advice he is giving you is incompatible with TFP and trying to mix the two is only asking for trouble. The choice is yours and we wish you the best of luck whichever you choose. If you...

How frequently are you testing and adding chlorine?

That's an amazing transformation in just 5 days. Did you end up using the clarifier or not?

Any chance your pool is bigger than you think it is? And do you have the proper size entered into POOLMATH?

Probably not the answer you were looking for, but this ^^^. Pucks and powders just aren't part of the TFP method for normal daily chlorine addition. This explains why:

You need to also consider a plumbing failure that would allow your pump to run dry. It happens.