Why is my pool so cloudy? All chemistry levels in check

SW Pool Owner

Well-known member
Jun 24, 2022
97
Long Island, New York
Hi what exactly has been turning my pool cloudy? I don't understand because my CYA is 67 and my FC is at 8 the whole time. I've had decent amount of chlorine + SWG and yet still I can't see the bottom of my pool today because of how cloudy it is.

I'm trying to understand how did this happen, do I NEED to shock every few weeks or so?
 
What's really needed is a proper test kit to make certain the numbers are correct. Which one are you using? The cya of 67 sounds like a test result from a pool store. Unfortunately it's not a reliable result. You'll be much better off doing your own testing with a Taylor k2006c or TF 100 kit.
 
SW,

I have three saltwater pools, that are in total, have been TFP pools for over 25 years. In all that time I have never, not once, added any kind of pool store "Shock". If you have a SWCG there is just no reason to routinely add shock.

Unless you have just added some kind of pool store "magic", cloudy water almost always means algae.

Not sure why, but at this point you need to SLAM your pool.

Tell me what size SWCG you have, what your current output % is, and how long you run the pump each day.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
No, but maintaining the proper FC-to-CYA levels per the FC/CYA Levels is key. Have you done an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test yet? How about posting a pic or two of the water?
My chlorine day to day is about the same level, I will report an OCLT and report back with the SWG off.

What's really needed is a proper test kit to make certain the numbers are correct. Which one are you using? The cya of 67 sounds like a test result from a pool store. Unfortunately it's not a reliable result. You'll be much better off doing your own testing with a Taylor k2006c or TF 100 kit.
Taylor 2006C, my reading is at 50 - 60, store's reading is 67.

SW,

I have three saltwater pools, that are in total, have been TFP pools for over 25 years. In all that time I have never, not once, added any kind of pool store "Shock". If you have a SWCG there is just no reason to routinely add shock.

Unless you have just added some kind of pool store "magic", cloudy water almost always means algae.

Not sure why, but at this point you need to SLAM your pool.

Tell me what size SWCG you have, what your current output % is, and how long you run the pump each day.

Thanks,

Jim R.

My SWCG cell is Amazon.com: Autopilot PPC3 RC-42 Clear Replacement Salt Cell : Electronics

Current output is ~80% (it came with the house and haven't upgraded it yet to 2x size)

I ran the pump about 9 hours a day prior but now I'm running it 24 the last 3 days and my FC is at 19. Not shock level, but that's after 4 gallons of liquid shock and my local pool store just ran out of shock.
 
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SW,

When you were running 9 hours at 80% your cell was only making about 1.35 ppm of FC per day. Maybe in your location that is enough, but I really doubt it.

Most pools use 2 to 4 ppm of FC per day.

I suspect your CYA is more likely in the 50's

Let's see what the OCLT shows.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
For more liquid chlorine, try WalMart, Home Depot, Lowes, Ocean State Job Lot, etc. Check the julian date printed on the side to ensure its fresh.
 

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You realize powdered shock is raising your CYA level, right? You're not out of range yet, so that's okay as long as you recognize it and the increased FC level it will require.

Since you will likely need to perform a SLAM soon, be wary of raising CYA any more. It'll only require more chlorine to perform the SLAM.
 
There are two popular types of powdered chlorine, commonly called tri-chlor and calcium hypochlorite.

tri-chlor can be powdered but more commonly found as pucks. they both contain 2/3 chlorine and 1/3 CYA

The other common powder is Calcium Hypochlorite (VERY rarely tabs). The percentage varies but they can add a LOT of Calcium to your pool
 
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Hi unless the packaging is lying to me (which it might), my understanding is the powdered shock is raising calcium hardness but is designed to not raise CYA. I have been adding this powder for a few weeks now and my CYA Is 50 - 70, so I am hoping that is correct.
Sounds like u have been barely holding back algae with the slightly elevated fc levels. Cal hypo is ok occasionally if your ch can take it but it’s best not to use it for the SLAM Process & stick with liquid chlorine because doing so will raise ch quickly also large amounts can cause clouding as well (we don’t want that!)
Lets see what the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test says but I suspect it will be slam time. Don’t forget to leave the swg for the duration of the oclt & be sure the pump is running for 30 minutes before each test (u can leave it on the whole time if u want)
Post all your results from your own test kit
Last fc & cc of the night 🌙 (after dark)
Fc & cc in the am ☀️ (@ sunrise)
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya
See u in the AM ☕️ !
 
Hi unless the packaging is lying to me (which it might), my understanding is the powdered shock is raising calcium hardness but is designed to not raise CYA. I have been adding this powder for a few weeks now and my CYA Is 50 - 70, so I am hoping that is correct.
Sorry, I forgot about cal hypo. You're correct, that does not raise CYA.
 
What time did you do the morning test. A 5 ppm drop is a lot, even if it was full sun.

I have trouble doing the morning OCLT too. I usually end up not being able to sleep the night I’m doing it so I test around 5 in the morning just so I can go to sleep.
 
Thats quite a drop - even with a couple hours of sun ☀️ Involved.
I would just go ahead & SLAM Process using liquid chlorine. Slam level for a cya of 70 is 28ppm. FC/CYA Levels
If u are trying to get ch up for your heater you can get calcium chloride & add that separately after slam for less coin than the cal hypo.
Ch of 200 or so is all u need so discontinue the cal hypo when u get to that if u plan on using it.

For a successful SLAM Process you need to continue to Maintain SLAM fc level for your cya until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-
You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where it may hide (light niches, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
 
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