New Pool and New SWG--Need Some Guidance/Test Kit

boxer156

Active member
Jul 20, 2022
27
PA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
DIY Inground Pool and figured to finally venture to SWG. Here is my Pool info:

*20x40 with 6' Deep End
*Aqua-Rite T-Cell 15
*If my math is correct, Pool will be 24k Gallons

I already ordered by Salt (12 bags)--just need guidance on how to shock the pool (getting hauled spring water), and what test kit to get. I understood by reading these forums to not trust that initial reading on my SWG for the salt reading--so figured I would measure initially with a test kit instead. Any help is appreciated!!!
 
Fill out your signature and profile details when you have a minute. It makes it much easier to receive proper help.

DIY Inground Pool
Plaster? Vinyl?

I already ordered by Salt
What salt did you order? Some brands/products are better than others.

guidance on how to shock the pool
Maintain FC at or above the FC target for your CYA. Barring an unusual event, you'll never have to SLAM your pool.



getting hauled spring water
What's the volume of the truck tank? Does the truck have a meter? It's better to measure than calculate volume.

what test kit to get
What do you have now? The K-1766 will be the best way to measure salt level.

 
Fill out your signature and profile details when you have a minute. It makes it much easier to receive proper help.


Plaster? Vinyl?


What salt did you order? Some brands/products are better than others.


Maintain FC at or above the FC target for your CYA. Barring an unusual event, you'll never have to SLAM your pool.




What's the volume of the truck tank? Does the truck have a meter? It's better to measure than calculate volume.


What do you have now? The K-1766 will be the best way to measure salt level.

1. Vinyl Liner
2. Clorox (which I just unfortunately read on here today is not the best)
3. 2000GAL truck...yes metered
4. No test kit yet (Pool isn't built yet). I'll order the K-1766
 
Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This will assist us in helping you without needing to ask for that info each time.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

See my signature and others for inspiration.

See Test Kits Compared
A TFPro Salt <OR> TF100 (or K2006C) <AND> K1766 <AND> Quick Stir
TFPro Salt includes the salt test and the smart stir
TF100 does not include the salt test or smart stir
K2006C is an alternate for the TF100 - but the TF100 (and TFPro) is a better value for the residential pool owner
 
Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This will assist us in helping you without needing to ask for that info each time.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

See my signature and others for inspiration.

See Test Kits Compared
A TFPro Salt <OR> TF100 (or K2006C) <AND> K1766 <AND> Quick Stir
TFPro Salt includes the salt test and the smart stir
TF100 does not include the salt test or smart stir
K2006C is an alternate for the TF100 - but the TF100 (and TFPro) is a better value for the residential pool owner
Just fixed my Profile/Signature, so its on there now.
 
Profile looks good.
Signature is the area under your post and is still blank. Look under my post where my pool info is. Use the link I posted to access the signature block.
 
Don't worry about the Chlorox salt - I've used it for years with no issues.

Use PoolMath to determine how much stabilizer (100% cyanuric acid, or CYA) to add to achieve 60 ppm in your water. Use the sock method described in Pool School to start it dissolving. It will take a couple of days to register on a test, so just trust that it's in there.

Test pH and use either muriatic acid to lower or borax to raise as needed into the range 7.2 to 7.8.

Use liquid chlorine to achieve 6 ppm of free chlorine (FC) in your pool. Don't rely on the SWG to get started -- they are designed to maintain chlorine but not to raise from zero.

Test FC daily for a few weeks and adjust SWG output and runtime to maintain 6 ppm. *Never* allow it to drop below 4 ppm. It's safe to swim with FC up to 24 ppm with CYA at 60, so err on the high side. Use liquid chlorine for a quick boost if you drop too low. Once your FC level remains steady, you can back off on the testing to a couple of times per week.

Test pH weekly and adjust as required.

Enjoy your Trouble Free Pool!
 
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Don't worry about the Chlorox salt - I've used it for years with no issues.

Use PoolMath to determine how much stabilizer (100% cyanuric acid, or CYA) to add to achieve 60 ppm in your water. Use the sock method described in Pool School to start it dissolving. It will take a couple of days to register on a test, so just trust that it's in there.

Test pH and use either muriatic acid to lower or borax to raise as needed into the range 7.2 to 7.8.

Use liquid chlorine to achieve 6 ppm of free chlorine (FC) in your pool. Don't rely on the SWG to get started -- they are designed to maintain chlorine but not to raise from zero.

Test FC daily for a few weeks and adjust SWG output and runtime to maintain 6 ppm. *Never* allow it to drop below 4 ppm. It's safe to swim with FC up to 24 ppm with CYA at 60, so err on the high side. Use liquid chlorine for a quick boost if you drop too low. Once your FC level remains steady, you can back off on the testing to a couple of times per week.

Test pH weekly and adjust as required.

Enjoy your Trouble Free Pool!
This is exactly what I was looking for!!! Thank you!!!
 
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