Not enough chlorine generated.

Aaronbr

Bronze Supporter
Jun 9, 2021
76
Santee, CA
Pool Size
22000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Everything seems normal but my SWG isn't producing enough chlorine. My SWG has been running since the beginning of May. I've been having to bump up the output percentage to maintain proper levels and I assumed it was because the SWG was in need of a cleaning. Yesterday when I got home from work my pool FC was at 3.0 and CC was 0. I took the SWG off and was set to clean it, but when I looked inside at the blades they were spotless so I just put everything back together. I set the IC40 to 100% output and let it run overnight. I checked it today at lunch to find my FC was 3.5. not near as high as it should be for running over night and all morning. I checked my salt levels using a Taylor test kit and it tells me my salt level is 3400. All lights on the SWG indicate it is on and running normally with an output of 100%. I'm not sure what to try so that I get the chlorine output I need.
 
I'll look into that OCLT test. That's a new one to me. I usually keep my pool FC in the 5-6 range because my CYA is 80. I do have an autocover that is closed all night. It is only open when I want to swim. I'll try that OCLT tonight.
 
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Is your cover closed all the time? Are you using the Intellichem to control the SWCG?
 
Cover closed all the time unless someone wants to swim. My pump runs 24/7 with the SWG on. The intellichem does not control the SWG, it only maintains my Ph level. I manually test and adjust the chlorine and SWG daily. Keeping my FC at 6 all the time makes me think it isn't algae, but i'm concerned I will have algae not that my FC is dropping.
 
5-6 ppm FC is at the very low end of the recommended range for CYA of 80. It's possible that this has allowed algae to take hold which is resulting now in your increased FC usage. The OCLT will reveal this.

It could also be that your SWG is nearing its end of life. How old is it? The IC-40 has an estimated lifecycle display feature, but my 6 y/o IC-40 still indicated it had plenty of hours left when it stopped working earlier this year.
 
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Quick update before doing the OCLT later. Although this is a bit long.

My pool is brand new. Filled with water on April 1 and the pump started on April 3. The SWG was started about a month after that as I couldn't put salt in the pool until pebble cured. So, the SWG isn't even 3 months old yet.

I was thinking I'd try 6 -7 FC from here on out, but the chart on this site says target of 6 FC is good up to CYA of 90 with a minimum of 4 which is how I came up with my 5-6 FC range.
CYA (Stabilizer)Minimum FCTarget FC
60*34
7035
8046
9046
100*57


I was waiting for a call back from Pentair when I started this thread. They did return my call and I got a few ideas from the person I talked to but they are for sure not on the TFP plan. I mentioned I keep my FC around 6 and he exclaimed "that's way too high, it should be about half that!". So I told him I keep my CYA around 80 in which he insisted that was also too high and I should have that around 50. I just agreed and said I'd fix it so I could move on to the real issue I was calling about. I told him that I thought maybe the cell needed cleaning but when I took it out of the system it looked brand new and that I read I shouldn't clean it unless I see scale. He told me that was wrong and that even if I don't see scale I should clean it at least twice a year. He said there is a probe inside that reads the salt level and if it gets dirty it can throw the chlorine production off. I told him I don't use automation and asked if it were still true. If even when my salt cell is telling me it is 100% output if it would actually put out less chlorine. He said yes it would effect the chlorine output. Well, my SWG has less than 3 months use but I figured I'd clean it anyway. So I mixed my 4:1 ratio and poured it in the SWG. No bubbles but I let it soak about 10 minutes. We will see if anything changes with that but I'm doubtful from the testing I did that I will talk about later. I added pics of the inside of my SWG prior to cleaning at the end of this post. The gunk you can see on the flange is lube for the gasket. On a side note, I tested my water and my salt level is at 3400 but my intelechlor is saying it is 3950 with no way for me to calibrate it. I think what Pentair told me wasn't true.

Pentair rep also mentioned getting my water tested for phosphates so I will do that tonight when I go for dinner. He also mentioned to crack open the union just after the SWG and get a water sample to test for chlorine. The water sample just after the SWG should be higher in chlorine than the pool water. I am not sure why, but I ran the test several times both on the pool and just after the SWG at 100% output, and I got different readings each time. I was sure to get new water samples for each reading and rinsed my containers and test vials at least twice between each use. I use the Taylor drop test to measure chlorine. My results were:

Before cleaning SWG:
Pool FC - 3.0 and 3.0
SWG FC - 3.5 and 1.0

After cleaning the SWG:
Pool FC - 2.0 and 3.0
SWG FC - 3.0 and 3.5

I then added liquid chlorine at around 1500 (3pm) to bring my my FC. My reading was 5.0. I still have my pump running with my SWG at 100% output. I'll take another reading before I go to sleep and I'll make sure the SWG is turned off with the pump still running so I can test the FC again when I wake up.

pool 9.jpgpool 10.jpg
 

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Well, you've reached a decision point - are you going to follow the TFP method or the Pentair rep? Because the advice he is giving you is incompatible with TFP and trying to mix the two is only asking for trouble.

The choice is yours and we wish you the best of luck whichever you choose. If you choose TFP, we will assist you every step of the way. Many of us here have loads of experience with Pentair SWGs (I've had one going on 6 years now), so we are not just throwing ideas at the wall to see what sticks. Our method is backed by science and has been tried and proven by 350k pool owners. But it is different than what most pool suppliers and stores recommend.

Regardless of which way you choose, forget about testing for phosphates. Phosphates are nutrients for algae, but a properly maintained pool will have no algae, so the presence of phosphates is irrelevant. Phosphate removers are simply a bandaid to mask the true underlying problem of live algae, which is always the result of insufficient chlorination.
 
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Cover closed all the time unless someone wants to swim. My pump runs 24/7 with the SWG on. The intellichem does not control the SWG, it only maintains my Ph level. I manually test and adjust the chlorine and SWG daily. Keeping my FC at 6 all the time makes me think it isn't algae, but i'm concerned I will have algae not that my FC is dropping.
When you say you adjust chlorine and SWG daily - do you mean you adjust the SWCG output daily?

If so - that may be part of the issue. SWCG aren’t made to be micro-managed daily. Set it, and let it rip. It’s 100% ok to above target; just never go below minimum or above SLAM levels.
 
All my lights are solid green.

I am using a TF-100 kit for my chemistry. I'm not really sure why my readings seemed to bounce around. My last test of FC of 5 was inline with what the pool store told me. They ready a 4.65. I take the pool store with a grain of salt though. They read my phosphates at 63 which were good. He was saying something interesting I haven't read anywhere yet. He measured my TA at 96 but said because my CYA was in the 80's (he got a CYA of 86) that the TA wasn't a true number and that any CYA over 60 gives a false TA reading. He put my TA and CYA into some algorithm and it said my true TA is 68. So I don't know which number to trust going forward.

I already made my decision before I even called Pentair. I'm sticking with the TFP method. That's why I just nodded and moved on past what he was saying about chlorine and CYA levels, because I plan to stick with what I have. I may let my CYA go to 70 instead of 80 though.

I wasn't very clear about my chlorine and SWG manipulation statement. I test chlorine daily. If I see it drifting to 5.0 I'll bump up my SWG output a few percent, then when I see it get to 6.5 I'll lower it a few. I just try to stay around the 5 - 6 range. I didn't realize I could go even higher, so that's good news to me. maybe I'll shoot for 6 - 9 and see how that goes.
 
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He measured my TA at 96 but said because my CYA was in the 80's (he got a CYA of 86) that the TA wasn't a true number and that any CYA over 60 gives a false TA reading. He put my TA and CYA into some algorithm and it said my true TA is 68. So I don't know which number to trust going forward.
Pool stores tout Adjusted TA. Essentially, they remove the alkalinity attributed to the CYA. Poolmath manages that for you in the calculations that matter. We use Total Alkalinity.
Pool stores like to do that to get you to buy high priced baking soda to raise your TA, which then you have to use acid to lower the pH.
 
Pool stores tout Adjusted TA. Essentially, they remove the alkalinity attributed to the CYA. Poolmath manages that for you in the calculations that matter. We use Total Alkalinity.
Pool stores like to do that to get you to buy high priced baking soda to raise your TA, which then you have to use acid to lower the pH.
Thanks for clearing that up. On a side note, I see you live in Laughlin. My grandmother and an Uncle live there. Technically Fort Mohave and Bullhead City.
 
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OK, ready for the night test. Checked the same sample of water twice. I got a reading of 5.5 FC both times. It seems it should be higher if everything was fine with the pool/equipment. That was about 5 hours running at 100% output with the cover closed and it only raised .5

I'll check the FC again tomorrow before I go to work. I have the SWG off and the pump on. Changed my programing to ensure the SWG won't turn on in the middle of the night.

Thank you for all the input today! I am very appreciative of all the help.
 
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My intellichlor reports a reading much higher than actual. I have 3400 salt but the IC reads 3950. I know not to trust it. I also don't use automation to control my chlorine level so I figure it isn't that big of a deal.

I am going to buy several gallons of chlorine today. When I went to bed my FC was 5.5 and I checked it now when I woke up and it's 2.5. Something I can't see is going on that I need to fix. Hopefully that is my issue.
 
My intellichlor reports a reading much higher than actual. I have 3400 salt but the IC reads 3950. I know not to trust it. I also don't use automation to control my chlorine level so I figure it isn't that big of a deal.

I am going to buy several gallons of chlorine today. When I went to bed my FC was 5.5 and I checked it now when I woke up and it's 2.5. Something I can't see is going on that I need to fix. Hopefully that is my issue.
Sad to say , failing Overnight Chlorine Loss Test = SLAM Process time
Get more than several gallons of liquid chlorine…
For a successful SLAM Process you need to continue until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Replenish fc to slam level at least multiple times per day (the more often the better, just no more than once per hour)
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where it may hide (light niches, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

SLAM ON 🤩
 
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