Planning New Pool

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Hayward spec their T-15 cell at 362 days at 100% or 8,688 hours at 100%

There are things you can do with poor water chemistry or unnecessary acid cleaning that can lead to premature cell failure.

To properly evaluate cell life you must know cell size, pool volume, and pool chlorine demand.

In NJ my pool averages 2-3 ppm of chlorine demand. In TX your pool may need 4-5 ppm of chlorine in full sun. You will use up a cell in half the time I will.

My pool is open 6 months of the year. I get 6-7 years on a cell.
 
mknauss said:
A typical swcg will last 5-7 years if sized properly. Mine is 8 years old.
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Note that Marty has a 40,000 gallon cell for a 6,000 gallon pool. Over 6X oversized.

I used to have a 40,000 gallon cell for a 35,000 gallon pool and now a 60,000 cell.

Just asking how long your cell lasts is not comparing apples to apples.
 
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D,

I have two rent house pools plus the one at my house, so 3 saltwater pools.

In 2021 I had to replace 2 of the three salt cells (Pentair IC40's)

One cell was almost 10 years old, the other one was almost 7 years old.

The average lifespan for a salt cell is between 5 and 7 years.. Some slightly less and some a little more.

A lot has to do with the size of the cell.. Think of a cell like the gas tank on your car.. The larger the tank the further you can go before you run out of gas. How you run the cell also has a lot to do with how long it will last. Just like the gas milage in your car, the better you drive the more MPG you will get and the farther you can go.

I'd just as soon fill my pools in, as not have them be saltwater pools. :mrgreen:

Cell prices have recently gone up, but so have chlorine prices.. Basically, you are buying 5 years of chlorine upfront, so the costs are about the same.

Just to be open.. the downside of a salt system is that they do not work when the water temps gets below about 52 degrees. So about 3 months in the DFW area. During this time, I use Liquid Chlorine, but pools do not use much chlorine during the winter.

Note that all my pools are 14 to 17K gallons, and they all have 40K cells.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
I suggest that you use 2-way valves on each skimmer line and replace their 3-way valves with simple "T" fittings. The only 3-way valve will the Intake valve which is the one in front of the pump. Using 2-way valves on each skimmer line gives you much better control than trying to balance your 3-way valve set up. Much easier to repair or modify later if you ever need to.

I would do the same thing on the Spa Common Return line. Only the Return valve would be a 3-way valve.
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Jim,

Am I on the right track?

Valving Snag.jpg
 

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I've taken a stab at redrawing my equipment pad plumbing scheme. Please advise with any recommendations and/or comments. TIA! Edit: Check valve qty = 4 ea. Equipment Pad SWG or Chlorinator Snag.jpg
 
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D,

In your current set up the "Spa Return" would go to the Jets.. This pipe is only used when in the Spa mode.

The "Spa Common Return" is what is called a make-up line.. When in the Pool Mode, it allows some water to go to the Spa so that it overflows into the pool. The manual valve lets you set how much overflow you get. The Check valve prevents the Spa water from draining back into the pool when the pump is off.

Some people have a separate pump just for the spa jets. The normal Spa mode just sends hot water to the spa and then when you want some real action, you turn on the jet pump.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Design update. Based on my concern regarding a robotic cleaner getting tangled around the in-pool table I had integrated into my design, I've rethought the approach and developed a new design. Please advise of your thoughts.

Old:
1642793646882.png

New:
1642793522029.png
 
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Pumps. I am trying to determine the best/most efficient pumps for my pool build and would appreciate any feedback. Here is what I am thinking after researching and (of course) referring to TFP's "Pentair IntelliFlo Pumps - Further Reading".
  1. Filter (3" main drain + 3" spa drain piping) - 3 HP Pentair IntelliFloXF VSF 022056 (flow control + strongest most efficient + accommodates 3" piping)
  2. Infinity Edge (3" basin drain piping) - 3 HP Intelliflo VSF 11056 (will have a separate filter for the basin, therefore felt flow control would be beneficial)
  3. Water Feature (3 - 24" Sheers and 2 Bubblers) - 3 HP VSF 11028
TIA!
 
I'm not a fan of the 3 way valve after the heater there's always a chance of dead heading the pump and the danger of bursting the heater core. A 2 way is safest and worse case senerio the water goes to the wrong place but pressure on the heater can't be good.
 
wireform said:
I'm not a fan of the 3 way valve after the heater there's always a chance of dead heading the pump and the danger of bursting the heater core. A 2 way is safest and worse case senerio the water goes to the wrong place but pressure on the heater can't be good.
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Do you not agree with Jandy's schematic?
1643136418838.png

Would you suggest this instead?

1643135783258.png
 

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