Planning New Pool

Does it make sense to install Rainbow chlorinator along with a SWG given the fact there are periods when the temperature falls and the SWG can't be used. My thinking is this will eliminate the need to physically put chlorine into the pool as needed and the process will be automated. Less maintenance is where the rubber meets the road! TIA.
 
Adding a rainbow chlorinator doesn't make sense to me. If you ever wanted to use tabs, just get a floating tab/puck holder. An inline tab chlorinator will eventually be prone to leaks.

When the pool water is too cold for the SWG to produce chlorine, most users will add liquid chlorine and not tabs. Tabs will raise the CYA and should only be used for vacations when no one is available to add liquid chorine (when SWG is not in use).
 
I’m in Austin, the pool water is too cold for maybe 1-1.5 months. I bought a 4 pack of liquid chlorine. I poured 1 gallon in. 3 weeks later, I finally needed to add more. Added 1 more gallon. My water is almost certainly going to warm up enough before I use all 4 gallons.

So, I agree with the others. No need at all for the tab feeder. Liquid chlorine, or throw in a puck floater.
 
Duff,

The more "Crud" you have in the way, the faster you will need to run your pump. With just a SWCG you do not need a check valve after the heater, with a tab-feeder you must add the check valve.

The effort to maintain a pool once the SWCG turns off is almost zero. I too would not recommend a tab-feeder. Maybe leave a place to add one if you later decide it is necessary.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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With just a SWCG you do not need a check valve after the heater, with a tab-feeder you must add the check valve.
Jim,

Much appreciated. I've read that a Chk Vlv is not needed if a SWG is installed? What about if there's a heater by-pass. Here's a schematic I pulled this schematic from one of the great "further reading" articles. I will definitely have a by-pass installed.

1644329585989.png

Thanks as always.
 
Duff,

My theory is that you should only install stuff for a reason. There is just no reason to install a check valve just to prevent the backflow from a SWCG, as there is nothing to flow back into the heater.

If you want an automated heater bypass, then you will need a check valve. If you want a manual heater bypass then you can use two manual Jandy valves or a set up with a check valve like in your drawing.

I don't have spa, so I don't have a heater. If I did have a spa, I'd most likely have an automated bypass so that when in the pool mode, no water would flow through the heater. I say this because without a heater I can run my pump at about 1200 RPM and have plenty of margin to turn on my salt cell. If I had a heater, I'd have to run around 1700 to 1800 RPM to get the cell to turn on.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I don't have spa, so I don't have a heater. If I did have a spa, I'd most likely have an automated bypass so that when in the pool mode, no water would flow through the heater. I say this because without a heater I can run my pump at about 1200 RPM and have plenty of margin to turn on my salt cell. If I had a heater, I'd have to run around 1700 to 1800 RPM to get the cell to turn on.
Oddly enough, if you split the flow through both the heater and bypass loop, you can still run the pump extremely low speed. I have to run 1600rpm if going through the heater, to satisfy the SWCG flow switch. When I installed the bypass, I was bypassing the heater completely and was running 1100rpm to satisfy the flow switch. On a recommendation from @mas985 (and per the Pentair bypass instructions, which I wasn't going to follow well, because they are Pentair and have caused me enough grief), it was recommended to always have some water flowing through the heater. I was surprised that I did not have to raise my pump speed from 1100rpm, to satisfy the flow switch, when I made the change to split the flow.

--Jeff
 
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Oh no way will the heater work at 1100rpm. I have my heater set up for 3000rpm. I meant my SWCG will work with my pump set @ 1100rpm with the system bypassing the heater (split flow between the heater and bypass)

--Jeff
 
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Duff,

Heaters need a certain water flow before they can work. Heaters don't have flow switch like a SWCG, but they have a pressure switch that serves the same purpose. Generally, you have to have more flow (pressure) than what you get at 1100 RPM to get the heater to work. Each pool is a little different, but most heaters won't turn on until the RPM gets up around 1500 or higher.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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It seems there are three major players:
  • Jandy (Sheer Descent)
  • Pentair (Magicfalls)
  • CMP (Natural Wonders)
We're planning on 3 - 36" for our build and am curious about pros/cons/feedback. Additionally they will be placed on a 12" high wall x 12" thick. Each waterfall will be individually plumbed and valved at the equipment pad.

Beyond general pros/cons/feedback:
Can a back port connection be used given the raised wall is 12" thick?
Assume rock traps should be installed?
Assume installing a filter/strainer is a wise decision?
Pros/Cons regarding a 1" lip or 6" lip (does the 6" lip actually extend 6" beyond the face of the wall?)
In addition to the 3 - 3' waterfalls, 2 Colorvision bubblers (individually plumbed and valved, as well) will be controlled by a single Pentair IntelliFlow 3HP VS water feature pump. All lines are 2" and average 30 lf in length. Based on my research, I believe the pump will be sufficient to push these water features effectively. Please advise.

TIA!
 
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