Pentair/Compool CVA-24T actuator valve problems

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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
848
Livermore, CA
Pool Size
19000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello TFPers,
I noticed that my Compool CVA-24T actuator valve is not responding appropriately. I've had my solar off for awhile now since it has been so warm lately, but I activated it yesterday and noticed it not functioning properly. It seems to be getting stuck. I have the toggle switched down to ON2 (which is the proper position for my system), but even when I attempt to override with the toggle switch by moving it to OFF or ON1, it is not responding. I don't think it is a problem with my solar controller Pentair Compool Lx220 b/c when I activated it on by using switching it from OFF to AUTO and increasing the temperature dial on the Lx220 and the valve responded by turning on. However, it got stuck halfway, then opened later on its on.

I am not sure if it has something to do though with the "Pool Cleaner Delay Expired" feature b/c I notice when that light is green/on, sometimes the valve doesn't respond appropriately. But, I don't think this is it b/c even when this light is off/not green, it is still not responding appropriately. So, could it be a bad valve or the entire CVA-24T actuator? Can I manually override this thing so I can turn off the solar b/c my pool is getting too warm. I can't run my Hayward MaxFlo 1.5hp VSP at a lower RPM while the solar is on b/c then I won't get any flow to my pool.

I greatly appreciate any help. Thanks.

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Seems like it's probably the internal limit switches. I had a dead valve a few months ago (would not respond) and I determined it was the limit switches. You can purchase them on Digikey for a few bucks a piece. It's a fairly easy fix.

Could also be the internal cams that activate the the limit switches.

Open it up and take a look inside, they're not terribly complicated to figure out.
 
I had a valve actuator that was not responding lately. I had not actuated it in a while. I took the top off and did not see any issues, put it back together and it works. I believe that due to the hot temperatures the shaft of the valve was 'stuck' against the body of the actuator. So my lesson learned is to actuate the valves every so often.

Take care.
 
Tx Matt. I don't know what digikeys are, so I'd have to google that.

Found this video: Pool Valve Actuator Manual Mode Manual Override part 1 of 2 - YouTube

Did not work to manually override it b/c of course the pentair would be the one that I can't unscrew the "turn key" on the top and push down to manually override it. I noticed when I went back out to it, that it the solar was now in the off position. So, I turned the CVA-24T toggle switch opposite to ON1 and then turned it back to ON2. It's stuck at about 25 degrees. Not sure what that tells me except something is not working in the system. Not sure if this test confirms it is these digikeys or cams. Whatever snooping I am doing now though, I don't have parts on hand to fix it though.
 
I unscrewed the motor top part, and placed the handle on. Now, at least I can turn it manually to OFF/ON.

Now I need to research these digikeys. It seems that it won't go back to the OFF position when I play with the toggle switch on the side of the motor. Does that sound like that is related to thse digikeys Matt, or cams?
 
I found this schematic Matt. Any of these parts from the diagram look familiar? Which are the ones you're referring to that may be the problem?
Compool CVA-24 Valve Actuator Replacement Part Schematic

Also, besides turning off the breaker, can I just unplug part 25 from 24? I was lightly pulling yesterday but I don't want to yank too hard to cause a problem. If I did this though wouldn't there then part 25 would be loose and live. So, that is probably dangerous, right?
 
Thanks Matt.

So from what I describe, it sounds like it could be that part? Looking at the diagram is a lot easier than when I open it up. I don't want to waste money, but if not operating normally, isn't a sign that the whole thing would have to be replaced? I'm sure I'm going to have my hands full with a lot of parts when take it apart. Maybe much easier for you Matt
 
A new valve actuator costs about $120 on Amazon. You'd simply swap out what you have with a new actuator and plug the wire into your automation panel. Easy enough if you wish to do that. Then you could buy the switches and rebuild what you have as a spare.

These actuators are actually fairly easy to rebuild in the field. The internal electronics are pretty rock solid. The weak link are the limit switches as they only can be contacted so many times before failure. The way they are mounted and connected to the wiring (no soldering needed, simple friction-fit connectors) indicates the manufacturer knew this and decided to make them field replaceable units (FRUs). Otherwise the pool owner has to drop $120 every time they fail. I replace an actuator every couple of years, so they are definitely "consumable" parts.
 

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Tx Matt for the help. Is one type of actuator, better than another? Or, more so, brand? Because I have a Pentair Compool Lx220 controller, should I stick with the Compool actuator? Yeah the only automation I have is simply to activate my solar. Very low maintenance/easy system. Of course, when the solar is on, or it potentially could be if I have the mode in AUTO, it means I have to run my pool pump at a much higher RPM.

We moved in here in 1/2014. This bad boy has been going strong ever since. When I removed it from the 3 way diverter, I saw the bottom was stamped with a 5/2002 sticker. Not sure when it was installed, but if it was manufactured in 2002, that's a pretty good life span. Maybe I've gotten longer years out of mine versus other people because again it's such a simple automation.

Not sure if it's related, but prior to this failure, I'd hear a small amount of water coming down intermittently through the solar. That would lead me to believe either the three-way diverter valve is bad, or perhaps that was related to the actuator. Not sure. This was also evidenced because I would see a small amount of bubbles coming up through one of the return jets. Weird though, because it was only one specific return jet. Could that be the diverter valve then? I was manually turning it yesterday and it seemed to turn. I never thought anything of it is because it's such a small amount of bubbles and I didn't think it really mattered.
 
Compool was bought out by Pentair a decade or more ago, so nowadays you can just use a Pentair CVA-24T actuator. All the manufacturers use the same electrical specs for these actuators - 24VAC drive motor. But, since you have a Compool controller, you can either go with a Compool actuator or Pentair.

As for the bubbles, no idea. I don't have solar so I'd defer to the solar experts advice. You could always put up another post and have them chime in.
 
Use a multimeter to check the voltage to the actuator. If there is no power to the actuator, check the 24V power source. If you do see power to the actuator, the motor or the switches in your actuator may have failed and will have to be replaced. I would also try this, swap the port inside your controller with another one of your valves. Sometimes easier than getting the meter out to check. Also if you are worried about buying a few parts and not sure if that is the part you need, you could swap parts from a working one to confirm.

I have run into my fair share of bad motors/gears in the actuators as well.
 
Tx Matt and Paul.

I'll have to go borrow a voltmeter/multimeter. Wouldn't there have to be voltage to the actuator b/c it works when I flip the toggle switch on the side in one direction, but doesn't operate in the other direction? I like the idea of getting a new one then swapping out parts to check which one/ones have failed to confirm.

The 1st thing I am having a problem with is turning off power to the actuator. How do I isolate that and turn it off? I don't want to shut off power to my entire system/pump if I don't have to.

I opened up the circuit board b/c I thought it would be easier/wiser to disconnect from that side, but I opened up a heap of "I don't know what I'm looking at." If I open up the actuator and attempt to disconnect from the power cord/source, that seems dangerous b/c that cord is live.

Compool Lx220 by B Brockman, on Flickr

Inside of Pentair Compool Lx220 by B Brockman, on Flickr

Circuit board for Compool Lx220 by B Brockman, on Flickr
 
Here are all the photos I have been meaning to post of about this current situation.

Compool CVA-24T actuator valveq by B Brockman, on Flickr

Compool CVA-24T actuator valve by B Brockman, on Flickr

Compool CVA-24T by B Brockman, on Flickr

Compool CVA-24T by B Brockman, on Flickr

Compool CVA-24T by B Brockman, on Flickr

Currently, it is like this below. I have removed the actuator and it is off the diverter. It is still attached w/ the cords though.
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

- - - Updated - - -

In those photos when the actuator was attached and turned approx 45 degrees or so, that was when it was stuck. I want to inspect/explore the inside of the actuator, I just don't want to get shocked.
 
It's 24VAC, it's not dangerous and is considered "low voltage" for the purposes of human safety.

The wire for the actuator is the one that goes to the V1 mini connector on the board. It's a 3-wire connector - black, red & white.
 
Got this far. Now what am I looking at. I flip the toggle switch, and it occasionally works in the down position ON2, and occasionally works in the up position ON1, but not consistently. Now after snooping around on the inside, I can't get it to work at all.

Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr


With it intermittently working, I wonder if that is a motor issue?
 
Ok. After opening it up, I figured I would change the position of the switches (part #4) to the left and right of the black diverter position changer (not sure what that part is called). I 1st disconnected the power by unplugging the power from the circuit plug-in and threading that out from the port on the left. Then changed the positions of the switches. I plugged back in the power, tried it multiple times and it worked. I put it all back together and remounted it on my diverter. Played with it for a couple of hours intermittently, then tried it one more time, and it did not work. So, I am now believing that it is the motor. But, if I go that far to replace the motor, I should replace the switches. Yes, it is seems relatively easy to replace all those parts b/c they are plug & play. However, if I start replacing the motor, 2 switches, then what else will fail? Probably cheaper doing piece meal, but is it the smartest idea?
 
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It sounds like the motor is fine. I really think all you need to do is change the limit switches; they fail, that's just how they are. As I said, you can buy a bag of 8 switches for around $20 on Digikey and then just replace them as-needed. Even if you got only another year out of the switches after replacing them, $4 in one year is a lot better than $120....
 

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