Pentair/Compool CVA-24T actuator valve problems

[JoyfulNoise]

I have four CVA-24T actuators on my pool so I decided to buy 8 switches for future use. With shipping from Digikey it came out to less than $4/switch. I saw that same set on Amazon but wasn't going to spend $7/switch. Since you only have one actuator to fix, the new switches should last you several years so $7 per switch isn't too bad.

Good luck with the repair and post back the results of you don't mind.

 

[bbrock]

Tx so much for your help and support Matt! Yes, I'll post back after the repair.

 

[bbrock]

Matt, again, you seriously rock. Tx for your help. Got this done and in about 5+ min. Easy, breezy! ~$15 is much better than the ~$130 for a new CVA-24T. Don't want to jinx anything, but is working like a charm. I tried to take step by step pictures so it can serve as a reference for others. This time, I left the unit on the diverter and just simply removed the top portion. Additionally, I only switched off the toggle switch to OFF but did not use my needle nose pliers to unplug the cord plug-in on the internal circuit board on the lower left area.

Flipped to middle position - OFF.
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Tools on hand
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Remove screw cap holding down handle
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Cap off. Now remove 4 screws securing top.
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Remove top
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

These are the 2 switches that will be replaced
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

The replacement parts
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Gently remove the 2 electrical lead wires feeding the switch, and note their position. Remove the little screw securing the switch, make note of the switches orientation, remove the switch, and replace it with a new switch, and fasten it down with the little screw that was removed. Then, reconnect the lead wires. Replace the opposing switch as noted.
Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Untitled by B Brockman, on Flickr

Then, replace cover ensuring that the lead wires are tucked in vs. under the cover. Replace the top cover. Fasten down with the 4 screws. Replace handle and fasten down with screw cap. Flip the toggle switch to the correct position for your solar system. And, viola, system operational.

by B Brockman, on Flickr

by B Brockman, on Flickr

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Glad it worked out for. 99% of the time those switches are the problem.

 

[Eric_yang]

I have four CVA-24T actuators on my pool so I decided to buy 8 switches for future use. With shipping from Digikey it came out to less than $4/switch. I saw that same set on Amazon but wasn't going to spend $7/switch. Since you only have one actuator to fix, the new switches should last you several years so $7 per switch isn't too bad.

Good luck with the repair and post back the results of you don't mind.

Do you know the part number of the limiting switches on Digikey? Need to buy a couple of them. Thanks in advance.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

do you know the part number of the limiting switches on digikey? Need to buy a couple of them. Thanks in advance.

sw141-nd

 

[Eric_yang]

sw141-nd

Thanks. BTW, I crossed/shorted the two wires of the limiters and thus limiters should be bypassed. And the motor still does not rotate even though 12V and 24V were presented. I can hear some noise from the motor when it is activated, but nothing rotates. That sounds the curator completely broke, right?

 

[Martin2003]

Thank you all, gave this a try when mine just went out and worked like charm! Much appreciated.

 

[generessler]

I have JVA 2444's, which look similar to what you have. Their circuit looks like this:
View attachment 170834
I'm focusing on you saying that direction is the problem. There's no "reverse relay." The only thing that affects direction of rotation is whether 24VAC is connected between blk and red or blk and wht input wires. The micro switches don't affect direction. They only stop rotation. The only other thing in the direction-determining part of the circuit is the manual/reverse switch. If you are not touching that, then the only explanation I can see for what you reported is that 24VAC is arriving at the valve _on the wrong wire_. This means a sticky relay or other problem in the control box.

It's not a bad idea to replace the limit switches anyway. It sounds like they may also be intermittent.

If you have even a cheap Harbor Freight style meter, you should be able to check what's coming from the control box to verify whether the above is right.