Welllllllllllllll I am a girl and I love BLING! See how some of that pretty blue, glass tile will look next to it with a sample of the plaster. Of course I am sure it will be an up charge so........
Kim
Kim
Signed the contract this morning, New build Orange County, CA
- Thread starter Titan7
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Depends on the look you are going for, but it is kind of plain. I do like the blend of colors, but you might want to jazz it up just a it, imho.
Agree, heading to NPT showroom tomorrow morning to get some sample of mixed blue tile, will post pictures.
Very nice, but that's gonna get expensive! I was thinking 6" blue/tan/goldish. NPT has some nice tile. Glass is awesome but $$ for our basic pool, lol.
Here are some samples all lined up and then the photos from the catalog, there is a wide color variation. Two of them are smooth the others rough and textured. Harder to clean? There are huge variation in the tile, the GMS-BLue has a lot more gold in it. note the photo on the Tropics Blue plaster sample. The tiles are:
Aztec
Cobalt # AZ606
Tuscany
Pietra Azul #HBLU
Gemstone
Blue # GMS-Blue
The Rustic- Blue (the really dark blue)
Rustic on the right, tuscany azul on left.
Gemstone Blue right, tuscany azul blue on left. Note the gold in the gemstone vs the single sample I have.
Aztec
Cobalt # AZ606
Tuscany
Pietra Azul #HBLU
Gemstone
Blue # GMS-Blue
The Rustic- Blue (the really dark blue)
Rustic on the right, tuscany azul on left.
Gemstone Blue right, tuscany azul blue on left. Note the gold in the gemstone vs the single sample I have.
I used the gemstone blue on my new bird. It is nice. We are happy
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Rustic is out for me.............too much contrast in the colors.
Gemstone is my fav!
The others are okay.
When they give you the boxes of tile go through them and lay them out. That way YOU can blend them like you want. There was one build where they put all of the lighter colored ones together and darker colored ones together
No mixing and matching. It looked awful. She made them take it out and redo it.
Kim
Gemstone is my fav!
The others are okay.
When they give you the boxes of tile go through them and lay them out. That way YOU can blend them like you want. There was one build where they put all of the lighter colored ones together and darker colored ones together
No mixing and matching. It looked awful. She made them take it out and redo it.Kim
Kim, gemstone does not have enough variation to worry about a layout. I did this and you cannot really tell much difference in the tiles. For other tiles this would be important.
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Was the tile for your pool pretty much the same patterns and color blends as the samples posted above in the showroom and catalog? I think we are going with the Gemstone Blue just wondering it I need to go down to the distribution center to make sure what shows up is not 180 degrees different.
Also need to start thinking about decking. We are going with a broom finished grey concrete, could not pull off pavers on the highly expansive soil here in So.CA. Well I could have done it but it's not the best option after further discussion with the PB, Decking Sub, and City inspector, the plus side is concrete saves me about $15,000. We are going to have the deck poured 4" thick over 3" of roadbase gravel, Rebar will be set at 18" on center, and they are going to use that "fiber"? in the 3000PSI mix. Rebar will be 12"OC around the pool shell.
So I know concrete cracks, I would like it to crack in the expansion joints, Anybody have suggestions over Saw cutting the joints vs tooling the joint. From what I understand saw cutting is done the following day and they will cut a 1/8" wide 1" deep joint that is better than the 1/4" deep joint we generally see with the troweled joints. Never had concrete installed so this is all "greek" to me.
Then there is the question, 4ftx4ft vs 5ftx5ft squares on diagonal? or just larger traditional slabs with expansion joints?
Pricing:
Broom finished non-saw cut 1" of road base 6.25 per SF.
Broom finished non-saw cut 3" of road base 7.25 per SF.
Broom finished saw cut squares, 3" of road base 8.25 per SF.
Thoughts, suggestions?
This is what the 4FT squares look like, was thinking it would be doable to replace a square if I got a bad crack vs the entire section? Remember I live in Earthquate Central.
So I know concrete cracks, I would like it to crack in the expansion joints, Anybody have suggestions over Saw cutting the joints vs tooling the joint. From what I understand saw cutting is done the following day and they will cut a 1/8" wide 1" deep joint that is better than the 1/4" deep joint we generally see with the troweled joints. Never had concrete installed so this is all "greek" to me.
Then there is the question, 4ftx4ft vs 5ftx5ft squares on diagonal? or just larger traditional slabs with expansion joints?
Pricing:
Broom finished non-saw cut 1" of road base 6.25 per SF.
Broom finished non-saw cut 3" of road base 7.25 per SF.
Broom finished saw cut squares, 3" of road base 8.25 per SF.
Thoughts, suggestions?
This is what the 4FT squares look like, was thinking it would be doable to replace a square if I got a bad crack vs the entire section? Remember I live in Earthquate Central.
It was exactly as displayed. I will post a photo late this afternoon when I get home from work.
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I never recommend saw cutting the concrete. By the time the cuts are made, the concrete has already cracked. The tooled joints are put in while the concrete is wet and serve as a void for the shrinkage cracks.
I am a big fan of irregular and curved joints. This will help to soften up the appearance and more importantly allows you to place joints exactly where you know the concrete will crack which nearly eliminates random cracking elsewhere.
I really would advise against that much rebar especially if you are also using fiber. Rebar does nothing to prevent cracks and in my experience, the voids it creates increases the potential for more cracking. The 12x12 grid around the perimeter is required but beyond that none is needed. If you want to go with that much rebar, the slab needs to be 6" thick.
For a quality job, specify a 4" slump maximum, no additional water applied and a dry base. Expect a lot of resistance from the contractor on this.
I've poured several driveways 4" thick at 3000 psi without a single piece of rebar and have 0 cracks with very heavy traffic
I am a big fan of irregular and curved joints. This will help to soften up the appearance and more importantly allows you to place joints exactly where you know the concrete will crack which nearly eliminates random cracking elsewhere.
I really would advise against that much rebar especially if you are also using fiber. Rebar does nothing to prevent cracks and in my experience, the voids it creates increases the potential for more cracking. The 12x12 grid around the perimeter is required but beyond that none is needed. If you want to go with that much rebar, the slab needs to be 6" thick.
For a quality job, specify a 4" slump maximum, no additional water applied and a dry base. Expect a lot of resistance from the contractor on this.
I've poured several driveways 4" thick at 3000 psi without a single piece of rebar and have 0 cracks with very heavy traffic
You have saved me SO much time and effort it's unbelievable, thank you.
Okay, so tooled joints. Will need to get more detail on the 4" Slump? They can push the rebar to 24" OC in the field. I feel sorry for people who do not use this fourm as a resource.
What are your intentions with all of the rebar? Fiber completely replaces it. Slabs for houses and garage floors don't even use 24" o.c. rebar and they support several thousands of pounds. Your pool deck would be lucky to see 100 psi. Rebar adds to concrete's biggest weakness-tensile forces, it does absolutely nothing to increase compressive strength.
The slump is the measure of water content in the mix. The more water, the higher the slump. The more water, the more shrinkage and ultimately more cracks. The water/cement ratio should never exceed 0.5/1, with 0.25 be all that's required for hydration, the rest of the water is to allow the mix to flow through the pump and aid in finishing. Every additional gallon beyond 0.5 per yard decreases the cured strength by 100 PSI. The water in the soil adds to this which is why i recommend a dry base. You may pay for 3000 psi but end up with much less.
I know you are concerned with your expansive soil but it is no different than what I deal with (mostly clay with DG) and in my opinion, pavers are ideal because they allow movement with the soil as opposed to concrete that does not and quickly shows it's weaknesses.
Sawed joints are best left to commercial jobs that have concrete mixes heavily regulated, machine screeds and early entry saws that allow the concrete to be cut as soon as 1-2 hours after finishing, none of which will be used on your job.
Irregular joints are placed where they are needed and where cracks can be anticipated rather then making them into a pattern or uniformity. I can post pictures if you'd like.
The slump is the measure of water content in the mix. The more water, the higher the slump. The more water, the more shrinkage and ultimately more cracks. The water/cement ratio should never exceed 0.5/1, with 0.25 be all that's required for hydration, the rest of the water is to allow the mix to flow through the pump and aid in finishing. Every additional gallon beyond 0.5 per yard decreases the cured strength by 100 PSI. The water in the soil adds to this which is why i recommend a dry base. You may pay for 3000 psi but end up with much less.
I know you are concerned with your expansive soil but it is no different than what I deal with (mostly clay with DG) and in my opinion, pavers are ideal because they allow movement with the soil as opposed to concrete that does not and quickly shows it's weaknesses.
Sawed joints are best left to commercial jobs that have concrete mixes heavily regulated, machine screeds and early entry saws that allow the concrete to be cut as soon as 1-2 hours after finishing, none of which will be used on your job.
Irregular joints are placed where they are needed and where cracks can be anticipated rather then making them into a pattern or uniformity. I can post pictures if you'd like.
WWF, welded wired fabric -- is what you need -- and what Brian and your PB are talking about. We had sheets, 4'x8'. And you will need to bond your pool reinforcing with the deck and ground the whole enchilada. PB bonded every sheet with the #8 copper wire from the pool. And def go with tooled joints.
Brian's points about slump are vaguely familiar from college, particularly when it is very hot. Without a doubt, its better to pour concrete when it is cool!!!
Despite your best preparations and your contractor's skill, be prepared for cracks; concrete cracks. On an adjoining patio we layed 10 years ago (also used WWF), we have a shrinkage crack right beside an expansion point -- like within an inch of the control joint for a 2x2 foot piece. Cracked before the contractors even left our property. It was 100-degrees plus that day. We let them go, understanding that conditions were so formidable, and the crack so obscure. You have very exacting standards, so think about what your allowances are before the pour.
Brian's points about slump are vaguely familiar from college, particularly when it is very hot. Without a doubt, its better to pour concrete when it is cool!!!
Despite your best preparations and your contractor's skill, be prepared for cracks; concrete cracks. On an adjoining patio we layed 10 years ago (also used WWF), we have a shrinkage crack right beside an expansion point -- like within an inch of the control joint for a 2x2 foot piece. Cracked before the contractors even left our property. It was 100-degrees plus that day. We let them go, understanding that conditions were so formidable, and the crack so obscure. You have very exacting standards, so think about what your allowances are before the pour.