Switching from Frog to SWCG

[proavia]

I'm thinking that, if I go CORE, I could probably get this done a bit quicker by skipping the utility panel upgrade. I suspect I have enough blank space on that hunk of mahogany to mount a T-104 or an RJ controller, but not timer and controller. Controller would stick up past the top of the panel a good bit, but mounting brackets appear to be further down on the box, so I could probably get it on there. Back side of my mounting panel has even less space, due to post, and fence obscures access.

Core takes up more space down on the pad, but if I'm getting rid of the Frog and some surrounding plumbing, that may be less an issue. Long way of saying, for my situation, CORE may have some advantages over RJ. Anyone here have a CORE, who can chime in on it?

Put one on the board and the other on the post or back side of the board.
The CORE is not as adjustable as the RJ series.

 

[P00LNerd]

The Core has 25% increments on the output. RJ has increments of 5%.

Wonder why they did that? 25% seems awful coarse, no?

 

[P00LNerd]

Okay guys... RJ-45+ it is! Once the hardware is here, I'll figure out the best way to get it mounted. If only conduit entry point is on bottom of RJ-45+ controller, then it won't even fit on my panel in the spot I had envisioned, meaning the controller might just go on the pole for now. I can always change it and improve (e.g. roof) in the off-season.

 

[P00LNerd]

Oh, and I'll check my salinity later today. Too much happening at my desk right now to get outside. I babysit computers for a living.

 

[proavia]

Okay guys... RJ-45+ it is! Once the hardware is here, I'll figure out the best way to get it mounted. If only conduit entry point is on bottom of RJ-45+ controller, then it won't even fit on my panel in the spot I had envisioned, meaning the controller might just go on the pole for now. I can always change it and improve (e.g. roof) in the off-season.

Without altering the controller, there is no conduit.
There is an attached power cord. You will also need to connect the cell cable and flow switch cable on the bottom of the controller. The controller comes with a mounting bracket.

 

[SJPoe]

. I just install expanding screw type rubber corks in all the open unions, which seem to do the job of keeping rodents and water out of the system.

I bought the bypass 'kit' for my RJ-60 - lets me keep circulation going even when I don't have the SWG in place. Makes it a little more flexible so I can clean / vaccuum even if I don't have the SWG operating - the cell is taken out and put inside for the winter, so no issues with the freeze, plus the continuous plumbing means I don't have to do anything special for winterizing etc.

Crazy price for two unions and a bit of pipe, but I traded time-to-make vs ease-to-buy

CircuPool® Bypass Cell for RJ-PLUS and UL-Series Salt System

www.circupool.com

 

[P00LNerd]

Without altering the controller, there is no conduit.
There is an attached power cord. You will also need to connect the cell cable and flow switch cable on the bottom of the controller. The controller comes with a mounting bracket.

Cool. I'll just string it up with cord glands for this year, and then figure out if I want to put it in conduit or liquid-tight over the winter. I have all of my other wiring below ground in conduit or liquid tight, makes for a nice clean install with no tripping issues.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/attachments/img_3411_small-jpg.591470/

 

[P00LNerd]

I bought the bypass 'kit' for my RJ-60 - lets me keep circulation going even when I don't have the SWG in place. Makes it a little more flexible so I can clean / vaccuum even if I don't have the SWG operating - the cell is taken out and put inside for the winter, so no issues with the freeze, plus the continuous plumbing means I don't have to do anything special for winterizing etc.

Crazy price for two unions and a bit of pipe, but I traded time-to-make vs ease-to-buy

CircuPool® Bypass Cell for RJ-PLUS and UL-Series Salt System

www.circupool.com

Also, I'm assuming finding unions that are compatible with theirs is probably not trivial. So many manufacturers use uncommon threading on their unions.

 

[sande005]

Also, I'm assuming finding unions that are compatible with theirs is probably not trivial. So many manufacturers use uncommon threading on their unions.

Correct. I hit several plumbing places, including real plumbing supply houses, and pool stores. Nothing that would fit.....

 

[proavia]

The RJ45+ and "convenience kit" (cleaning stand and cell blank) is less than $1230 now.

 

[P00LNerd]

The RJ45+ and "convenience kit" (cleaning stand and cell blank) is less than $1230 now.

Didn't see a "convenience kit", but it brings up the more general question: what should I add to the cart with the RJ-45+, before checkout? Bypass tube? cleaning stand? Vertical kit?

The vertical kit appears to just be a few elbows, easy to build to my preferred size, if I really even need to go vertical.

I see they sell flow meters, and I've actually always kinda wondered what my flow rates are...

edit: found convenience kit!

 

[P00LNerd]

Oh, and I'll check my salinity later today. Too much happening at my desk right now to get outside. I babysit computers for a living.

Doh... my K2006 kit has instructions in the lid for salt test, but lacks the actual reagents to go with it. Oops.

 

[sande005]

The convenience kit is $4 more than just the dummy tube. It will be a few years (if ever) before you even think about using the cleaning stand ($23 by itself). So as long as you remember where you put it....
The phosphate test stips? If you follow TFP, you'll never use, except for curiosity. So good that they are essentially free.
You shouldn't need anything else, unless you need spare unions because you mess them up while installing. So don't do that.

Probably good you are leaning toward a "temporary" wiring setup. After it is all done and running, you can then think about the additional routing of the flow switch cord, and the cord from the generator to the control box, since you want to keep it in tubing/conduit if possible.
Trench for conduit over the winter? If only my ground ever allowed for that.....

 

[proavia]

Didn't see a "convenience kit", but it brings up the more general question: what should I add to the cart with the RJ-45+, before checkout? Bypass tube? cleaning stand? Vertical kit?

The vertical kit appears to just be a few elbows, easy to build to my preferred size, if I really even need to go vertical.

I see they sell flow meters, and I've actually always kinda wondered what my flow rates are...

edit: found convenience kit!

Convenience Kit - Value Pack-Kit1-Pack

www.discountsaltpool.com

Yeah - not necessarily "needed" - but if the cell cracks, I don't need to do any major plumbing when it's 115° outside to get the pump up and running. And the cleaning stand could come in handy as well. The phosphate strips aren't needed at all.

There are better flow meters out there - but not needed. You are going to have to run the pump fast enough to satisfy the SWG flow switch or the heater anyway.

 

[P00LNerd]

Thanks, guys! Placing order now.

As to digging "over winter", I meant October! That's when I'll have the pool shut down. Our ground doesn't usually freeze until December. In the spring, it's thawed again 2 months before would even consider opening, so plenty of time for that kind of fun.

Our climate is cold compared to many of the places where pools are most popular, but this ain't exactly Fairbanks, either.

 

[sande005]

Thanks, guys! Placing order now.

As to digging "over winter", I meant October! That's when I'll have the pool shut down. Our ground doesn't usually freeze until December. In the spring, it's thawed again 2 months before would even consider opening, so plenty of time for that kind of fun.

Our climate is cold compared to many of the places where pools are most popular, but this ain't exactly Fairbanks, either.

Sounds like we have roughly the same seasons, mine's just harsher in the winter. But I've basked in the continuing 70-75 degree days this spring, while my daughter in Philly baked in the 95+ days. But then, mine hasn't warmed up to pool weather at all yet, which is very, very unusual. In the spring, I uncover the pool about the time the ice comes off the nearby lakes - about mid-April. But it doesn't get running until early-ish May.

 

[P00LNerd]

Sounds like we have roughly the same seasons, mine's just harsher in the winter. But I've basked in the continuing 70-75 degree days this spring, while my daughter in Philly baked in the 95+ days. But then, mine hasn't warmed up to pool weather at all yet, which is very, very unusual. In the spring, I uncover the pool about the time the ice comes off the nearby lakes - about mid-April. But it doesn't get running until early-ish May.

Yeah, I'm sure your winter is harsher. This spring here has been nice and cool, really only a few days even warn enough to use the pool, until the last two weeks.

The last two weeks of June finally got hot, but I was out of town those two weeks, and missed it all. Now I'm back in PA, it's cool again!

RJ-45+, accessories kit, Taylor salt reagents, and T-104 timer... all ordered this afternoon. All should be here in the next ten days.

 

[proavia]

RJ-45+, accessories kit, Taylor salt reagents, and T-104 timer... all ordered this afternoon. All should be here in the next ten days.

GREAT!!

 

[P00LNerd]

So, I guess it's time to talk water chemistry, as what I'm running right now is already loaded up with silver, copper, and all the other Frog "minerals".

Keeping in mind that Frog recommends lower FC/CYA ratio, thanks to all the other stuff in the water, here's where I'm at today:

FC = 2.5 - 3.0 throughout the day
CC = 0, unless I leave cover on
pH = 7.85
TA = 145
CH = 110
CYA = 60
SI = 0.25

Water is clear and beautiful, always has been, no issues there. There is a slight stain forming on any white plastic above the water line, such as stairs and inside of skimmer.

The pool company has been telling me to keep FC at 3.5% to 5.5% of CYA, based on "Frog mineral water", and that has always worked. Never a green day. And whatever the Crud in the water is, it's there to stay for now, I'm not doing a mid-season water change.

So, what's the regimen to be on the SWG? With the silver and copper in the water, I'm not sure I need to make any big immediate leap in FC/CYA ratio.

I'm also guessing that, until I can do a water change, I'd best keep up the current regimen with weekly scale and stain remover, to prevent even more staining, until the silver and copper can be somehow removed or depleted.

 

[proavia]

Disregard the silver and copper in the water for chemical balancing purposes.
Use the FC/CYA Levels chart and keep FC near the top of the target range for your CYA lefel.
Use PoolMath to determine dosage.

Your pool is still a non-SWG pool. For CYA 50, minimum FC is 4 and target is 6-8.
Minimum is like a cliff - stay far away so you don't fall off. Dose for high side of target.

For "SI", are you using LSI or CSI? List the full acronym, not just "SI".
Suggest you use CSI, as it's in PoolMath and keeps us all on the same page.

Continue to use the sequestering agent for now.
The silver and copper will remain in the pool until removed via draining.
Water exchange can happen another time, if it's needed.