Thanks for your response. Do you have any suggestions if those numbers are correct? I’ve only used chlorine tabs, shock, and some muriatic acid on the pool and drained it half way and refilled a month ago. Pool likes great now so hopefully I can keep it that way.Welcome to TFP.
No, those recommendations don't address the primary issue with your pool, which is that CYA is too high and free chlorine is way, way too low. That combination will allow algae to grow and may inadequately sanitize the water. The recommendations also don't address the other big issue, which is that the copper in your water (probably from unnecessary algaecides) may stain your pool's surface.
(This assumes that the test results are accurate. Pool-store testing often isn't.)
You may want to read some of the Pool Care Basics, and also create your signature and introduce yourself.
Thanks for your input!You should stop using solid forms of chlorine. Use only liquid chlorine. Order a TFP recommended test kit (Test Kits Compared) and post up results. The kits at tftestkits.net provide the best value for the backyard pool owner.
Until your kit arrives, add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine each day. PoolMath will help you make those calculations
What if they're not correct? What if we send you the wrong way because we trusted testing that's proven again and again to be unreliable?Do you have any suggestions if those numbers are correct?
Thanks for the info, I have not used the Fresh and Clear.Just to further clarify, chlorine is a gas so it needs to be attached to something so you can get it into the pool. Other byproducts are left behind as the chlorine is used. Liquid chlorine adds only salt and water. Solid forms contain either CYA (stabilizer) or calcium, making these forms of chlorine unsustainable in the long run. Take a look at Leslie's test results.
The professionals recognized your CYA and CH are too high and are now recommending Fresh and Clear, which is a non-chorine oxidizer. It's acidic which will lower TA and pH, and adds sulfates which can lead to corrosion pool surfaces and components.
Was just curious if you agreed with any of their recommendations if the results were correct after I did my own testing.What if they're not correct? What if we send you the wrong way because we trusted testing that's proven again and again to be unreliable?
That's not something we're willing to do, and something you shouldn't want us to do. We know what testing we can rely to be accurate and allow us to guide you in a direction we know is correct.
I'll just say that if those numbers are correct then the pool stores have gotten your water in pretty bad shape (especially if this is after a big water exchange) so why would you trust them for anything going forward?
No.Was just curious if you agreed with any of their recommendations if the results were correct after I did my own testing.
Thanks for your input!No.
A TA of 50 is fine, but if you wanted to raise to our recommendation of 60-80, I would raise your TA with baking soda, not their expensive product.
I would never use the fresh and clear product. You need to lower your CYA, and follow the SLAM process to eliminate CCs.
You can ignore phosphates and adding any product to reduce them. If you maintain your FC for your CYA, phosphates are never an issue.
I recommend you get a good test kit as recommended, lower your CYA if YOUR test kit shows high CYA, and follow the SLAM process to clear your pool.
Absolutely not.Was just curious if you agreed with any of their recommendations if the results were correct after I did my own testing.