- May 3, 2007
- 18,073
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The dc side is the ones with the red and black wires connected. Ac has the orange wires.
Board Repair
- Thread starter william13
- Start date
so if I test 2 oranges and they have ac current then can we assume rectifier issue?
- May 3, 2007
- 18,073
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes. They connect to the transformer yellow wires via K1. So K1 must be engaged as with the black/red wires.
right now I am only measuring 7V with the 2 orange wires. This is weired because it should be 24 v.
- May 3, 2007
- 18,073
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Did you make sure K1 is switched on?
You are measuring ac right?
Take the orange wires off the board and then measure the voltage on the board connectors.
You are measuring ac right?
Take the orange wires off the board and then measure the voltage on the board connectors.
I did not make sure k1 was on for the orange to orange test. also The leads for the orange wires are so firmly attached to the board I was concerned I would damage the connectors so I measured the ends of the wires and I suppose there could be a break but I did not see one. do I need to go to default menu again to test orange wires? Also will the display be operational to reset K1 if I remove orange to test? Yes definately AC
- May 3, 2007
- 18,073
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes, you need to restart the swg cycle before measuring ac on the orange wires.
The display uses different power path than the cell. The orange and black/red are only for the cell.
The display uses different power path than the cell. The orange and black/red are only for the cell.
Well I did get those wires off and tested voltage directly from the board pre and post reset. There is an issue with a voltage drop here should be 24 ac but only 7-8 V.
tell me exactly what pictures you would need please.
To summarize
1. the transformer does put out 24 V Yellow to Yellow wire measurement
2. Red Black : No voltage even when SWG reset
3. Orange Orange expected to put out 24 AC but puts out a meager 7V
4. Hayward trouble shooting video only addresses issues where it puts out 0 Volts and then says "replace the board"
5. I believe I have a failed component on the board but not sure where or what
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,165
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
There are two bridge rectifiers mounted in the upper right of the case, not on the board, that convert 24V AC to 24V DC.
They look like this...
This thread discussed replacing the rectifiers...
www.troublefreepool.com
They look like this...
This thread discussed replacing the rectifiers...
fuse keeps blowing on Hayward swim pure salt water panel.
Hello, May salt water panel recently went dead, no lights, no power, no digital display etc. I replaced the black circular resister as previously in the past believing this was the issue and fix as previously. After swapping out the resister, I reinstalled the circuit board with all the wires...
www.troublefreepool.com
Check the thermistor.
MF72-050D9
Inrush Current Limiter 50 Ohms ±20% 1 A 0.433" (11.00mm).
R @ 25°C. 50 Ohms
Current - Steady State Max 1 A
R @ Current 1.252 Ohms
Diameter 0.433" (11.00mm)
Lead Spacing 0.295" (7.50mm)
MF72-050D9
Inrush Current Limiter 50 Ohms ±20% 1 A 0.433" (11.00mm).
R @ 25°C. 50 Ohms
Current - Steady State Max 1 A
R @ Current 1.252 Ohms
Diameter 0.433" (11.00mm)
Lead Spacing 0.295" (7.50mm)
Right! I believe I investigated these through the back door. As I understand it, the orange wires supply 24 AC to the rectifiers and the Red and black bring back 24 dc to the board. Unfortunately my orange wires only supply 7-8V ac to the rectifiers. The fuse was tested but if it was bad I believe there would be 0 volts.There are two bridge rectifiers mounted in the upper right of the case, not on the board, that convert 24V AC to 24V DC.
They look like this...
This thread discussed replacing the rectifiers...
fuse keeps blowing on Hayward swim pure salt water panel.
Hello, May salt water panel recently went dead, no lights, no power, no digital display etc. I replaced the black circular resister as previously in the past believing this was the issue and fix as previously. After swapping out the resister, I reinstalled the circuit board with all the wires...
I can send pictures in the morning but I have exhaustively looked at my connections. I will check the thermistor. Could this cause a reduction in voltage? I need to figure out what is reducing the transformers voltage. I appreciate the troubleshooting manuals and I did read and follow them to my best ability.
In the diagram above showing the transformers and rectifiers, It suggests that I would see 24 V AC if I put my meter on a Yellow and an Orange as opposed to 2 oranges. Am I reading this wrong?
It is usually helpful if we can see the board so that we can see if any of the parts are damaged or if any of the wires are in the wrong spot.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,165
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Start by finding the two yellow wires that are directly the transformer output. They should be 24V AC
That is for the Aquarite, not the Prologic.
The 24 VAC from the yellow wires connects to the board and then that transfers to the orange wires through the 20 amp fuse and the orange wires go to the rectifiers.
If you have 24 VAC on the yellow and not on the orange, then there is a problem with the board.
Send it back for a warranty exchange.