Fiberglass install started - NJ in the winter

[stephywephy88]

It's almost time! Signed the contract in July, ordered the shell (14x30, but only ~9k gallons due to sun shelf). Got rid of my Frankenfence (per this post) and took down a beautiful oak tree . We were planning for an April build, but the shell arrived early and they'll start excavation possibly next week. Never owned a pool - anything to know about a winter install? PB said they will only fill to the closing level. Simple 3' concrete decking to follow at some point, so I am assuming there will be no winter cover this year and it will just be uncovered from now until winterization? Also getting an undertrack autocover which I guess gets timed with the concrete pour (though they haven't asked me my color choice yet...). I'm still trying to get the full info from PB.

What if it rains or snows and increases the water level above the returns (I think I'm using the correct terminology)?

 

[ajw22]

Your PB should plug the returns with rubber winterization plugs.

Your skimmer should also be winterized with plugs and a crush zone.

Closing Pool for Winter - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You should have a submersible pump and hose so if the water level gets high you can drain water off. You never want the pool to overflow.

Submersible Pumps - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

We are having a wet and mild winter in NJ. As long as your ground is not frozen the builder should be able to dig.

Fiberglass Pools - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Headbanger783]

They’ll cover it with a “non-safety” cover. Basically a tarp and water bags….that’s what mine did. We were installed first week of March last year.

 

[kimkats]

Do you have a time line yet? Have they staked out the placement yet?

 

[dleonard1122]

Sounds like you have a great chance at enjoying your pool this Summer! An April build would have probably pushed your time to enjoy it to the right a little bit, but either way I'm sure it's going to be great.

 

[stephywephy88]

Do you have a time line yet? Have they staked out the placement yet?

They wanted to excavate last week but we got hit with rain. I’m still waiting to hear if we’re a go for this week, but we have more rain coming Wednesday then a solid week of dry weather. I have permitting plans that show where the pool will go and the utility company came out to mark. So we’re now waiting on the township inspector’s availability since he needs to be present for Day 1.

 

[kimkats]

So you are doing what I HATE to the max.......................waiting on other people!!! Gurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr they are never on your time line LOL It will happen when it happens. It is best to wait for rain free weather to be on the safe side!

 

[stephywephy88]

Today was our day! Excavation, pool drop, backfill, water, plumbing (winterized for now). Electricity next week, then concrete deck and autocover. I’m a little nervous leaving it out in the open now that a part of the privacy fence has been replaced with a temp wire fence so I might tarp it tomorrow with bricks to hold it down (I feed feral cats and kids play in an empty lot next door).

 

[kimkats]

SWEET!!! You have a pool in your yard!!! OH YEAH!

Do NOT tarp it! I know why you are thinking of it BUT if a child or animal falls onto the tarp they will not be able to get out on their own. It will case more harm than good It will wrap around and hold them down. Beef up your temp fence to keep the kids out. The cats will find their way to the steps and maybe out as well.

 

[stephywephy88]

SWEET!!! You have a pool in your yard!!! OH YEAH!

Do NOT tarp it! I know why you are thinking of it BUT if a child or animal falls onto the tarp they will not be able to get out on their own. It will case more harm than good It will wrap around and hold them down. Beef up your temp fence to keep the kids out. The cats will find their way to the steps and maybe out as well.

Omg good points. Okay, no tarp . I probably won’t sleep for weeks I do have a security camera back there so I can keep track (when I’m awake).

 

[Casey]

Keep your leaf rake handy incase you get debris in the pool. Scoop it periodically. It'll help keep the water clear. If the pool freezes, don't worry about it.

 

[stephywephy88]

The rake was a great idea and I got a bunch of leaves out (where did they even come from?!) while simultaneously working the impinged rotator cuff And there have been no floating critters, but it’s cold here still.

The auto-cover box was delayed but recently installed. Today (after my approval) they moved the equipment pad, plumbing, and electrical to avoid a sloping/grading issue, I think. They had to drain the pool into the street and dig out the backfill - that hurt to watch (hurt both my eyes and the diggers’ backs, I’m sure).

I think electrical hookups are coming soonish and I have a few electrical questions for the experts out there.

1) I am piping for a future natural gas heater - do I ask the electrician to install an extra outlet/circuit at the pad? One GFI is included. PB quoted a 250k BTU heater (I assume Pentair with my automation system). Or should I worry about that next spring when I install the heater?

2) My contract is pretty comprehensive but I do know I have to pay per automation element wiring/hookup (*see below for electrical inclusion contract language). Any idea of that hookup cost? I have 3 pool lights, sand filter, pump, and SWG (don’t believe auto-cover gets hooked up into all that?). No spa or water features. I’m mostly just wondering ~$500 or ~$1500 so I can budget next steps accordingly.

Thanks! Can’t wait to post some additional pictures!

* Within this contract consists of 1 circuit breaker in the main panel, switches or circuit breaker to operate pump(s) and light(s),
one GFI outlet, one pump timer, and 100 linear feet of wiring.

 

[Newdude]

Or should I worry about that next spring when I install the heater?

Worry about that now. The wires they are going to pull to the equipment pad may or may not be able to handle another 15A circuit for the gas heater. Those wires are real spendy so it would suck to have to rip them out and pay again for new ones. So make sure the electrician knows all the plans for use of the panel.

Any idea of that hookup cost?

The quotes I got last summer for bonding, panel, pump/swg, one light, outlet and only 15 ft away was $3500 and $5800.

 

[ajw22]

1) I am piping for a future natural gas heater - do I ask the electrician to install an extra outlet/circuit at the pad? One GFI is included. PB quoted a 250k BTU heater (I assume Pentair with my automation system). Or should I worry about that next spring when I install the heater?

Heater and SWG should piggyback on same circuit as your pump.

2) My contract is pretty comprehensive but I do know I have to pay per automation element wiring/hookup (*see below for electrical inclusion contract language). Any idea of that hookup cost? I have 3 pool lights, sand filter, pump, and SWG (don’t believe auto-cover gets hooked up into all that?). No spa or water features. I’m mostly just wondering ~$500 or ~$1500 so I can budget next steps accordingly.

* Within this contract consists of 1 circuit breaker in the main panel, switches or circuit breaker to operate pump(s) and light(s),
one GFI outlet, one pump timer, and 100 linear feet of wiring.

Your signature says you are getting an IntelliConnect.

What model pump and SWG are you getting?

I hope you are getting an IntelliFlo pump which is compatible with the IntelliConnect. In that case you don't need a pump timer. The IntelliConnect controls your pump timing.

I hope you are getting the IntelliChlor IC20 which is compatible with the IntelliConnect and IntelliFlo.

What pool lights are you getting?

Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[stephywephy88]

Heater and SWG should piggyback on same circuit as your pump.



Your signature says you are getting an IntelliConnect.

What model pump and SWG are you getting?

I hope you are getting an IntelliFlo pump which is compatible with the IntelliConnect. In that case you don't need a pump timer. The IntelliConnect controls your pump timing.

I hope you are getting the IntelliChlor IC20 which is compatible with the IntelliConnect and IntelliFlo.

What pool lights are you getting?

Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pentair i2 Intelliflo, SD-80, SWG IC-30 (is this no good? ETA: nvm, I googled and understand the difference in capacity now!), but not clear on the exact lights. Contracts states “PAL-LED.”

So sounds like same circuit for IC, SD-80, and i2 (no timer)?

My actual electrical run is included in the contract up to 100ft, but I have to pay for automation hookups separately.

Thanks

 

[ajw22]

You say SWG IC-30. There is no IC30. There is an iChlor30 which is a different model and prone to problems.

The IntelliChlor IC20/40/60 is much much better for you.

You need to have the optional water temperature sensor installed for the IntelliConnect to control the IntelliChlor or iChlor SWG.

 

[stephywephy88]

You say SWG IC-30. There is no IC30. There is an iChlor30 which is a different model, not compatible with the IntelliConnect, and prone to problems.

The IntelliChlor IC20/40/60 is much much better for you.

You need to have the optional water temperature sensor installed for the IntelliConnect to control the IntelliChlor.

Got it - the manual they handed me is indeed for an iChlor, so I can look into this now.

You say SWG IC-30. There is no IC30. There is an iChlor30 which is a different model and prone to problems.

The IntelliChlor IC20/40/60 is much much better for you.

You need to have the optional water temperature sensor installed for the IntelliConnect to control the IntelliChlor or iChlor SWG.

Thanks again - looks like I have an iChlor30 based on the manual I was handed, hmm.

 

[ajw22]

I looked into it further. The iChlor30 is compatible with the IntelliConnect but is problem prone.

The IntelliChlor IC cells are higher quality and much better in my opinion.

 

[Newdude]

looks like I have an iChlor30 based on the manual

The 30 is a GREAT size for you at 3X. It will only need 1/3 of the runtime as a 'properly sized' model, extending its finite lifespan by as much.

The 15/30 are the budget models though and not as robust as their 20/40/60 cousins. Evenso, you'd likely get a fair life from the 30 and could swap it out when the time comes. Nows the time if you want to make the change from the start tho.

Also wanted to point out that the intelliflo i2 is specifically designed for retrofits without having to replace the electric feed to the equipment pad. The tradeoff for less maximum amp draw is likely a sacrifice in performance at higher RPMs. In my case, I was going to run low RPMs full time anyway and it wouldn't matter if the price was right, but if they were similarly priced, I'd want the regular intelliflo.

This may point to the builder expecting to need less power at the equipment pad, possibly not having room to add a heater down the road. Have the convo with the PB about cost and reason, and get confirmation from the electrician that they know your plans, whichever pump you decide.

 

[stephywephy88]

The 30 is a GREAT size for you at 3X. It will only need 1/3 of the runtime as a 'properly sized' model, extending its finite lifespan by as much.

The 15/30 are the budget models though and not as robust as their 20/40/60 cousins. Evenso, you'd likely get a fair life from the 30 and could swap it out when the time comes. Nows the time if you want to make the change from the start tho.

Also wanted to point out that the intelliflo i2 is specifically designed for retrofits without having to replace the electric feed to the equipment pad. The tradeoff for less maximum amp draw is likely a sacrifice in performance at higher RPMs. In my case, I was going to run low RPMs full time anyway and it wouldn't matter if the price was right, but if they were similarly priced, I'd want the regular intelliflo.

This may point to the builder expecting to need less power at the equipment pad, possibly not having room to add a heater down the road. Have the convo with the PB about cost and reason, and get confirmation from the electrician that they know your plans, whichever pump you decide.

Well once again I checked my pile o' manuals and it's actually a Intelliflo VSF (despite what's on contract). I dug around and think the VSF has 16 max amp load vs. the i2's 11.8. So I take that as a good thing for the future heater and efficiency in general!