Changing my Aqualink old laggy PDA to something newer

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M

Massey

Member
Mar 18, 2022
11
Charlotte NC
The house I purchased has a pool system based on Jandy and I would like to modernize my interface, like having a mobile app to control my program and pumps. Should I change my whole Jandy circuit board and panel or is there Aqualink (wifi) compatible with my system?

Thanks!
 
Massey said:
The house I purchased has a pool system based on Jandy and I would like to modernize my interface, like having a mobile app to control my program and pumps. Should I change my whole Jandy circuit board and panel or is there Aqualink (wifi) compatible with my system?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You need to replace your board and change it from a PDA version to an RS system with iAqualink 3.0.

@PoolGate has done it.
 
It's fairly easy conversion you need the IQ20-RS or IQ30-RS upgrade kit. Installation takes around 10 minutes. Once done everything will be controlled by the computer or phone interface and your PDA will be used only to turn things on and off. What model do you have now? The upgrade kit needs to have at least the same feature set as you have now.
 
I just did this change from a Aqualink PDA-PS4 to IQ-30RS few weeks ago. Pool service company was quoting ~$1500 but I found a new upgrade kit on ebay for $700. I did lose out on the warranty as Jandy doesn't provide DIY warranty but price difference was enough to take the risk. I followed this great write-up: iAquaLink 2.0 Install and Review
 
Thank you guys for the info!

My main filter pump broke last month - could not prime - and the technician came to install a new Jandy ePump 2.7 ($3,500) told me that I also needed to upgrade my board ($900) so my pump could run 100%. (something about no enough pins available).
So how can I check if I have the good RS board or if I should also upgrade it for the iAqualink3.0?
 
The "not enough pins" is probably referring to the older Aqualink PCBs only having one dedicated RS-485 header which - in your setup - is currently occupied by the PDA Jbox connection. The revised boards, including iAqualink, have 2 (plus an RJ11 port). However, you can put multiple devices on one RS-485 header, so I'm not really sure what he's talking about. As long as your current firmware is new enough to support a variable speed pump, it should be able to be connected now and work properly. But at the end of the day, the Jandy PDA solution is still hot garbage. IMO, I'd just remove the PDA part altogether when you upgrade, it's useless.

Upgrading to the iAqualink will get you the new revised PCB and it'll fully support your new VSP and allow you to use the mobile app.
 
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If you need more COMM connections Jandy has the multiplex board that gives you four RS-485 connectors. It is pricey but less than a new PCB. It does not give you the other new features the RS and iAqualink upgrade will give you.

AquaLink Multiplex Board

www.poolzoom.com www.poolzoom.com

It really depends what problems you are looking to solve.
 

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You have a second red COMM block but are missing the connector.

Jandy charges ridiculous prices for the red 4 screw and green 10 screw terminal blocks. They are called "Riacon" terminal blocks.

Metz part number 31007104, Digi-key part number 1849-1116-ND is the 4 pin block. These are black colored rather than the red colored ones, but otherwise they are the same.

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

If you keep your PDA system you should replace the broken antenna.
 
You have a PDA PS-6 combo. So you need an RS-6 system (or higher like an RS-8). I'm not sure if combo means shared equipment or both (P&S). I'll post the Jandy selection guide later.

How many devices do you have? I think you'll need to get the multiplex board anyway. You need a slot for pda antenna, wifi antenna, pump, saltwater chlorine generator, heater and maybe more. You can put two devices in each slot. So if you have only 4, you don't need the multiplex.
 
Okay, I have 3 pumps (1 filter pump and 2 feature), a heater, bubbler and 4 electronic valves.
I don't want to keep the PDA is it old and really laggy, I would rather have iAqualink 3.0 or something else that is compatible.

I am still not sure what the technician updated for $900 :) to have more pin for the VSP, it seems connected to the red block with the antenna.
 
Only the VSP pump needs a 4 wire port. The other pumps don't. Heater doesn't strictly need one you can use the fireman's on/off instead. Valves also don't use one.

What's on the bill? If your PDA still works even the old model with it's antenna you can get $300 on eBay for it.
 
All you'll need what was recommended earlier in the thread - the iQ30-RS kit. The "Pool/Spa combo" and RSx numbers (RS4/RS6/RS8, etc) number is irrelevant* with iAqualink 3.0, as all of the iQ30-RS kits are effectively "RS8s" supporting up to 8 relays and a pool/spa combo.

Edit, clarification for anyone seeing this post in the future:
* = if you have an RS4-RS8, the iQ-30RS kit is what you need. This covers the vast majority of residential Aqualink installations. For the more uncommon RS12-RS32, you would need to make sure you're on firmware version T or above and purchase the iQ30-A interface.
 
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dfwnoob said:
All you'll need what was recommended earlier in the thread - the iQ30-RS kit. The "Pool/Spa combo" and RSx numbers (RS4/RS6/RS8, etc) number is irrelevant with iAqualink 3.0, as all of the iQ30-RS kits are effectively "RS8s" supporting up to 8 relays and a pool/spa combo.
Click to expand...

Where are you seeing this? They still sell the different Aqualink setups at Jandy so not sure how that would work. Does the kit include the new RS PCB board? The picture shows everything but the smaller PCB board that has the feature set on it.

It almost looks like it doesn't include the feature set PCB and they expect you to use your existing PCB. It also needs the correct "shared/single/dual" feature set.


OP: I would call and see what exactly is included with what you purchased.

THIS:
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