Automation: what input voltage and current to drive JANDY relay?

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dblko

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Jun 20, 2012
69
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I'm looking to (temporary) add an external switch to my JANDY filter pump relay while the main control board is out for repairs in order to be able to run the pump manually.
Perhaps even running it through another remote relay, like those made for garage door openers. Of really get fancy making it an Arduino project.

Looking through various threads and documentations it looks like that kind of relay takes 24V DC.
Is it OK to directly connect it to an external 24VDC power adapter or does it need some other protective circuit to limit the current?
I can't find any information about the required amps rating to switch the relay. Also, would it work with less voltage? What about a 9V battery?

The original power supply inside the control box gives 24VAC, so that might be also a way to get to 24VDC by running to through a rectifier.
 
Looking at your post history your pump is a Hayward Super II that is 120v/220v capable. You'll need something like a Suraielec WiFi Pool Timer.

If you really want to go the relay route, please include some photos. Is it part of Hayward automation? If you can fill out your signature that would help.
 
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Did a quick search, found this on ebay with a pic
Does that look like your relay?
The picture of the relay part number is fuzzy, but its an Omron G7L

It would need 75% of 24VDC, or 18VDC to turn on. Max voltage is 110% or 26.4 VDC

If you rectify 24VAC you'll get around 34 VDC, so don't do that.

I use the same relay family, Omron G7L to control power to my spa pump. I use a relay with 110VAC turn on voltage. I just apply AC across it to turn my pump on, works fine, don't have to worry about current limit.
But you do need to find a source for 24VDC, and it needs to provide at least 79 ma. It can provide more, but not less than 79.

Randy
 
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guinness said:
Looking at your post history your pump is a Hayward Super II that is 120v/220v capable, how is yours wired? You'll need something like a Suraielec WiFi Pool Timer.

If you really want to go the relay route, please include some photos.
Click to expand...

That times looks pretty cool for just $50, considering what the JANDY system costs.
However right now I'm not looking to directly work on the high voltage load that goes to the pump or modify anything on the 120V side of the breaker,
just looking to control the low voltage side that goes to the relay coil and causes it to switch into on or off position.
 
randytsuch said:
Did a quick search, found this on ebay with a pic
Does that look like your relay?
The picture of the relay part number is fuzzy, but its an Omron G7L

It would need 75% of 24VDC, or 18VDC to turn on. Max voltage is 110% or 26.4 VDC

If you rectify 24VAC you'll get around 34 VDC, so don't do that.

I use the same relay family, Omron G7L to control power to my spa pump. I use a relay with 110VAC turn on voltage. I just apply AC across it to turn my pump on, works fine, don't have to worry about current limit.
But you do need to find a source for 24VDC, and it needs to provide at least 79 ma. It can provide more, but not less than 79.

Randy
Click to expand...

Exactly, that's what I was looking for, thanks.
By the way, did you find a plug that matches the one that's attached to the relay or did you end up cutting it off?
Looks like it might fit one of those JST XH2.54 connectors.
 
Pretty sure I used crimp on tabs you can find at Home Depot. Would need to check to be sure, haven't look at that relay in a long time.

EDIT: Just to be clear, the numbers above are from the datasheet for an Omron G7L relay with 24 VDC activation voltage. I'm assuming that is what you have, but can't be sure without seeing the part number.
Part number should be something like G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-DC24
The DC24 at the end means it has a 24VDC coil.

Randy
 
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dblko said:
Exactly, that's what I was looking for, thanks.
By the way, did you find a plug that matches the one that's attached to the relay or did you end up cutting it off?
Looks like it might fit one of those JST XH2.54 connectors.
Click to expand...
All of the newer relays used by Jandy, Hayward, Pentair are nominally 24vdc and are completely interchangeable. The one marketed for Hayward is half the price of the one that has Jandy on it on Amazon. Or look up this, by Omron, the company that likely makes them for all the companies mentioned (about $25.00) . We used to be able to get the Omron brand at wholesale until the big three said they would pull their product if the wholesalers continued to offer them.
  • G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-DC24
 
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dblko said:
However right now I'm not looking to directly work on the high voltage load that goes to the pump or modify anything on the 120V side of the breaker,
just looking to control the low voltage side that goes to the relay coil and causes it to switch into on or off position.
Click to expand...

I think this could work if you have a 24VDC power supply. Take a look at the user manual to see if it would work for your application.

 
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Looked at my relay this morning, I bought one with screw terminals so I just stripped wires and screwed them down to the relay.

The relay is installed in an old intermatic timer box, it replaced the timer that was there before.
 

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Click to expand...
Regardless of the videos, I've seen it rejected by inspectors many times. The last video explained some of the requirements to running it in tubing (conduit), temperature correction, bundle adjustment, etc. Also, if this is a 240v installation (which I believe it is) using the white wire as a non-neutral is against code as well (not concerned with the 24v side). Someone (like me) is going to come into that installation some day and expect that the white is a neutral and possibly get injured.
I only look at these things as how I would have to accept the repair or reject it unless it was made safe.
 
Hadn't thought about the white not being neutral when I installed it. But in my defense, the wire I added is about a foot long to where it connects into the existing wiring. So would be hard to make a mistake like mistaking it for neutral. I will replace it one day now that I understand the issue, probably when the spa pump gives out.

There is no 24V side in this case, the other side really is 115V. It come from another relay, I didn't use the standard 24VDC relay.
 
randytsuch said:
Hadn't thought about the white not being neutral when I installed it. But in my defense, the wire I added is about a foot long to where it connects into the existing wiring. So would be hard to make a mistake like mistaking it for neutral. I will replace it one day now that I understand the issue, probably when the spa pump gives out.

There is no 24V side in this case, the other side really is 115V. It come from another relay, I didn't use the standard 24VDC relay.
Click to expand...
Wrapping black electrical tape around a white wire that is hot indicates it is a hot wire and not neutral. Wrap some black tape around that wire.

That does not fix the Romex in conduit.
 
Last hijack of this thread.
I replaced all romex out of conduit this weekend. I only had short runs of romex, mostly to outlets, and the ones in the pic for the spa motor. That was very short, to another junctions box.

So I now just have thnn type wire in conduit.

Randy
 
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