The pump is wired to the pool itself, just hard to see due to the leaves at the moment. Have to rebuild the door to the shed because everyday it fills up with leaves in there. Not the best wire as apparently the one from the pool was too short so they added on and loosely tied it. I will be picking up a few crimps today to ensure good contact when I replace the power whip and timer.@W.J.Christy beat me to it, but you definitely need to replace those DWV fittings with fittings meant for pressure. The sockets on DWV fittings are only 1/2 the depth of the pressure sch. 40 fittings. From you mentioning he used the wrong pipe, maybe this is what you were talking about. Check to make sure he didn't use DWV piping as well. That stuff isn't made for pressure. Look at the labeling on the pipe itself. I'm sure you can do much better yourself. The guy that did that hadn't a clue about pool plumbing, and probably plumbing in general judging from how sloppy the work is.
I suppose valve #4 is supposed to be an isolation / stop valve. I suppose it's there because you said the stop downstream of it (#5) is nonfunctional, welded in the open position. I'm not sure how #5 is supposed to regulate the slide. I suppose by providing back-pressure on the pool return it's supposed to feed the slide. That's not the way to do it. Put a working service stop (either a GOOD ball valve--preferably a union ball valve) or a Jandy 2-way valve where the existing ball valve is. Upstream of that put a 3-way Jandy valve (diverter valve). You can use that to dial in the right flow. Heck, if you want to go cheap, you can just put in a tee and a gate valve (hose bib).
One thing you kind of have going for you is you at least have 10"+ of straight run right into the pump. Put unions on both ports of the pump and plumb off of those. Put unions on everything attached to the multiport valve on the filter. I don't know how anyone expects you to be able to open the filter up and work on it.
Definitely get that power whip to the pump fixed.
I could be missing it, but I don't see a bond wire anywhere. That pump needs to be bonded to the pool frame with a heavy gauge (like #6) copper wire.

The pump and filter sit on a concrete slab roughly 8.5ft lower then the top of the water level for the pool. I have considered raising this up, but nit sure if it would be worth the effort. I don't know how much strain it actually causes to push the water back into the pool from a declined position. My brain equates it to trying to push a car uphill by hand, I could be wrong and it may not matter. The ball joint to the water slide was put in because it sits on the deck of the pool and with its current location when you turn the valve at the slide to run the water it produces pressure enough for about 15 minutes. I believe that the intent was to increase the pressure slightly below the slides hose port to keep consistent flow. As it stands right now with it wide open, if the slide runs for more than 15 minutes air goes down the lines, stops water flow and will send air bubbles out of my returns. Additionally, I have no means currently to prevent backflow if I am working on the plumbing on the return ends other than to plug my returns off completely. I need to reseal the cement on the pool side of the regulator valve due to it has begun to fail.

This image shows the pump house and pool. It is 25' from the edge of the pool to the pump house. Picture does not show it very well as I am standing on an incline, but the pump and filter are on a concrete slab roughly 8.5' below the pools surface water line. They are roughly 6'-6.5' below the returns back into the pool. I am redoing the plumbing today for the pool and have the scooper on the tractor, should the height and placement if the pump/filter be different? If I am going to move it I would rather do it now since I am already cutting pipe.