Complaints of chlorine stinging eyes

[JMPool99]

I’m getting control of my pool water with the TFP method. Slowly but surely my numbers are getting in line.

Anyway, my CYA isn’t outrageous but it’s higher than it should be. I’ve been following Pool Math App for keeping FC in the right range. Ultimately that’s meant my FC is higher now than it has been before.

My swimmers are now complaining about eyes stinging. My question is - if you have a higher CYA and, as a result, have to keep a higher FC level, is that going to result in symptoms like stinging eyes? Or, since the CYA is higher does the fact that FC is higher become less relevant because some of the chlorine really isn’t available to react (I’m simplifying I know it’s complex). Put differently, is the effect of my FC at 6.5 with CYA 85 going to be similar for my swimmers to as if I had say FC 3.0 and CYA 40?

I’ve watched many of the videos on TFP and they’re great. Just looking for some help on this one.

My numbers (I used a TF-100 kit):
FC 6.5
pH 7.6
TA 115
CH 375
CYA 85

Thanks!

 

[PoolStored]

There seems to be two major factors. Bunch of threads, search here for Stinging Eyes.
Chloramines. Run your tests for CC (you didn't include in your test results. High CC can result in stinging eyes.
Salt. There is a paper floating around that indicates the primary factor for irritation appeared to be osmotic pressure since adding salt to the water at around 0.5% (around 5000 ppm) in the field study or 0.7% (around 7000 ppm) in the lab study virtually eliminated the eye irritation which isn't much of a surprise since the salinity of human tears is around 9000 ppm. Some add salt to their pools for eye comfort. Maybe get a salt test and see what your salt level is...some add 2000-3000 ppm salt to reduce this irritation.

 

[ajw22]

What is your CC?

With CYA of 90 your FC is below the minimum of 7 and the target of 10-12.

Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and increase your FC level.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

With a CYA of 90 have you done a dilution test to confirm it is not higher?

CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

 

[JMPool99]

Yes, I’m just below the minimum FC for my CYA - I’ll be getting that up soon.

I’ll redo the test for CYA with dilution.

I’ll also do CC test and repost all these results.

Thanks everyone …

 

[JMPool99]

CC 0
FC 6.5
CYA with dilution test (42x2 = 84) basically same I got with standard CYA test

I guess my real question is - is it safe to have 7-10 Fc (since that’s needed with my CYA level)? By needing more FC since my CYA is high, am I causing this problem of irritating chlorine as a result? Thanks!!

 

[mknauss]

FC of 7-10 ppm at 80+ CYA has less active chlorine than most tap water. That will not cause any form of irritation.

Eye irritation is typically from low pH or CC. Also if swimmers rub their eyes alot.

 

[PoolStored]

I would target 10-12. Don't want to let it get close to 7, you flirt with algae. With your swcg, keep it 11-12. You should be good.

 

[Saturn94]

I would target 10-12. Don't want to let it get close to 7, you flirt with algae. With your swcg, keep it 11-12. You should be good.

+1 on staying well away from the minimum FC level. The only problem is at above 10ppm, pH testing can become unreliable.

 

[Saturn94]

FC of 7-10 ppm at 80+ CYA has less active chlorine than most tap water. That will not cause any form of irritation.

Eye irritation is typically from low pH or CC. Also if swimmers rub their eyes alot.

This!

 

[PoolStored]

+1 on staying well away from the minimum FC level. The only problem is at above 10ppm, pH testing can become unreliable.

Yeah, I shied away from recommending a partial water replacement because the issue was eye irritation, not algae. AND OP is in So Cal ($$$$ Water). Even a 1/3 replacement is close to 6K gallons. OP is dancing a fine line.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Try lowering your Ph to 7.2 for a few days with the swimmers, should be less of a discomfort.

 

[JMPool99]

Yeah -- you guys nailed it regarding water. My pool isn't that old and my CYA is already been around 85 for several months thanks to the pool guy I Started with.

I've heard of some products that can reduce CYA -- my guess is they're probably not even worth touching, but figured I'd float that idea.

The whole issue is the darn CYA levels.

Great responses, thanks as always . My buddy is putting in a pool and I have him checking this site out already. He just bought a TF-100. So... at least he won't end up in this crummy situation like me.

 

[PoolStored]

I've heard of some products that can reduce CYA -- my guess is they're probably not even worth touching, but figured I'd float that idea.

Yep. Doesn't work, waste of money.

 

[JMPool99]

OK, and one more question... if I do a slow dilution... is there any issue with keeping FC up at 7.5% of the CYA (other than the pain of constantly adding chlorine)?

Man... if I'm going to stay on liquid chlorine, I'm wondering if I should get a Chlorine Feeder!

 

[PoolStored]

OK, and one more question... if I do a slow dilution... is there any issue with keeping FC up at 7.5% of the CYA (other than the pain of constantly adding chlorine)?

Man... if I'm going to stay on liquid chlorine, I'm wondering if I should get a Chlorine Feeder!

Not sure I understand "if I do slow dilution." ???

As for the LC, I installed a Stenner pump and tank. Search "Stenner" here on TFP. I installed mine, with a tank, and a smart plug. Used Alexa routines to automate the process. I tested daily and just updated the routine to run for the amount of time necessary to replace FC demand. I'm converting to SWCG, but if you want to stay with LC, the idea is the same. Run on the "hot" end of the recommended range for FC for your CYA. Never let it get close to "minimum."

Macro view, your FC demand will vary. Just keep your feeder programmed to keep your FC at the middle-top of the Target range for your CYA. Manage the feeder on a weekly/monthly for macro demand. Never let it get close to "minimum" FC.

 

[JMPool99]

Re my "slow dilution" - I am going to replace the water over time to try to get the CYA down to 40 if I can is what I meant to say. Though this may take too long and I likely need to get a pump and follow some of of the replacement water methods I've seen on TFP.

Thanks for the tipon the Stennar. Are there any tablets (unlike Trichlor) that don't include stabilizer?

My guess is that most pool owners honestly have no idea on half this stuff and just trust their "pool guy". Half the folks I know with pools that have floaters must have CYA numbers that are huge - yikes. Kinda scary when you start thinking about how oblivious folks are. And, back in the 80s and 90s, seemed like everyone I knew just checked for pH and made sure FC was in the 1-4PPM range and called it a day.

Appreciate all the help!

 

[wireform]

Your CYA is already in SWCG territory so I'd rather see you go the salt water route then the stenner pump because you still need to lug chlorine to fill the tank.

 

[cowboycasey]

I agree, Your pool is exactly where I keep my SWG pool at.. FC at 7 and CYA at 80.. Works perfect for 8 years now.

 

[MITBeta]

Because your FC is at or below minimum for your CYA now, I'd recommend an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to rule out any organics that may have found their way into your water.

You can manage CYA at 90 and allow the slow dilution to work, as you suggest, just make sure to check your pH when FC is under 10.

Also, there are no tabs that don't add either CYA or CH.

 

[Blake106]

I’m getting control of my pool water with the TFP method. Slowly but surely my numbers are getting in line.

Anyway, my CYA isn’t outrageous but it’s higher than it should be. I’ve been following Pool Math App for keeping FC in the right range. Ultimately that’s meant my FC is higher now than it has been before.

My swimmers are now complaining about eyes stinging. My question is - if you have a higher CYA and, as a result, have to keep a higher FC level, is that going to result in symptoms like stinging eyes? Or, since the CYA is higher does the fact that FC is higher become less relevant because some of the chlorine really isn’t available to react (I’m simplifying I know it’s complex). Put differently, is the effect of my FC at 6.5 with CYA 85 going to be similar for my swimmers to as if I had say FC 3.0 and CYA 40?

I’ve watched many of the videos on TFP and they’re great. Just looking for some help on this one.

My numbers (I used a TF-100 kit):
FC 6.5
pH 7.6
TA 115
CH 375
CYA 85

Thanks!

I tested the water at my condo complex that had a cya of 100 and fc of 10 with no cc problems, ph was 7.6. I had irritated eyes only after opening them underwater. Swimming right above the surface felt fine though. They did a complete drain and refill and went back and swam with no goggles underwater and no longer had Irritated eyes. I speculated that it was from high total dissolved solids or from that 10ppm chlorine still there in the water even though it was being buffered from the cya, I feel like it would just make sense that a running a lower chlorine level of around 3ppm and lowering the cya to around 30ppm would be less irritating to the eyes. That’s just my take on it.