Step by step we will help make sure the pool is built correctly!
So......will the river and the pool share any water?
Kim
So......will the river and the pool share any water?
Kim

AQUA HOLICS,#1
mineral deposits will form over time and maintenance will be needed. If the exposed area from the spill water is treated with the right products this maintenance will be at a minimum occurrence and hassle.
#2
water getting under the tiles is a installation/material problem, not using the correct materials for that application and not being installed correctly by leaving voids for the water to enter.
#3
an overhang will help with the waterfall effect even if it’s only a 1/4” rather than being flush with the face of the spa, this helps break the tension of the water from the wall face. Are you planning for the spillway to be open on top with no coping over it? If so A 2” lip would be dangerous if people were to walk across the spillway and put weight on the overhanging tiles.
#4
most overhangs are with constructed with tile.
#5
5’ is the widest I’ve had constructed but was with a dedicated pump. 3-18” spills can work good for looks and sound of water with a VS pump that is running in filter mode. You can adjust the speed of return water to the spa to achieve the amount of spill water for the effect you are looking for, just remember you are taking that water from recirculating through the pool return lines.
DirkI agree that he should have known about the tile. And that he should finish the job in a reasonable amount of time. 100%. And that as the consumer, you shouldn't be "bothered" with having to do his job, or any part of it. And I acknowledge that I'm only hearing a small part of the story. I'm just saying, from what you've shared:
- You can't sue someone for making a mistake and then later making it right. Well, you can sue, but you won't win anything.
- You can't sue someone for breaking something if he later fixes it. Again, you can sue, but you won't be awarded any damages. In cases like this, trying to get "pain and suffering" or "punitive damages" is near impossible.
- You CAN sue someone for taking too long to finish a construction project, especially if there is a schedule in the contract, but you'll lose again! Maybe not the court case, but if you sue this guy, especially now (which is why I said now is not the time), then your project will stop, and you definitely won't be swimming this summer and quite possible not summer 2023 either.
- And depending on how the contract is worded, you probably can't withhold draws without just cause. That would put YOU in breech, and that will also stop your job. No swim for you!
BTW, if you think a construction project is stressful, that's nothing compared to a lawsuit about a construction project...
I'm just playing devil's advocate. Think hard before you threaten this guy. He's building your pool, you want him on your side! And by the way, I'm on your side, even though it may not sound like it!
PS. Speaking of which, I wish I had an in-law that cared as much about me like you care about your pops. You're awesome!!
Jim,A,
Normally, the water line tile has a continuous line of mortar and not a "dab" behind each tile.
The tile on the pool back wall seems to be pretty normal to me. The tile comes in a sheet, and they are not all perfect.
There should not be roots or anything else between the tile and the gunite.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Toxophilite,Interesting stuff! My ledge, travertine coping, is 1/4" short, inside, of the split-face and angled wall, and even at slow speeds, it causes the waterfall to go away from the wall.
ajw22,Thinset should be applied with a notched trowel to the pool surface then the back of a tile buttered and placed on the wall. You should see the notches in the thinset when the tile is removed if it was properly installed.
See around the 2 minute mark in this video…
Jim,A,
I went back and looked at some pics of my pool being built. The did put down a layer of "something", but not sure what it was that leveled the gunite and gave a backing for the tile. Not sure if it was cement or not. They used a board to cut it off at the bottom to make the transition to the plaster.
The then used some kind of thin set maternal to attach the tile to the "cement".
In the pic below, you can see the cement on the left, then applying the thin set, in the middle, and the tile on the right.
View attachment 393453
Thanks,
Jim R.
There’s a lot of good advice already given, do you have a specific question or questions in mind. At this point I would ask yourself if you think the quality of work is going to change without you being there to supervise? One option is to stop with this contractor, money will be lost but as is you are not getting what you want as a finished product.AQUA HOLICS,
Can you please take a look at my thread I just posted and give me advice since you definitely know what you're talking about? Thank you!
Few builders install the waterproofing membrane for waterline tile in residential pools.ajw22,
I'm definitely no tile expert by any stretch. That's what I was thinking. Isn't a layer of cement applied first, then let dry 1 1/2 hours then apply thin set and then the tile? What about waterproofing/sealant?
AQUA HOLICS,There’s a lot of good advice already given, do you have a specific question or questions in mind. At this point I would ask yourself if you think the quality of work is going to change without you being there to supervise? One option is to stop with this contractor, money will be lost but as is you are not getting what you want as a finished product.
ajw22,Few builders install the waterproofing membrane for waterline tile in residential pools.
Many pools don’t need it. Some do.ajw22,
Isn't the waterfroofing membrane a neccessity?
ajw22,Many pools don’t need it. Some do.
As you are discovering there are many things builders do to cut costs from the perfect pool build.
Kim,Step by step we will help make sure the pool is built correctly!
So......will the river and the pool share any water?
Kim![]()
Look at this mess!