- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
texas winter storm - broken pool equipments - water recovery
- Thread starter nityntiy
- Start date
And what's the advantage of VS? Also, is the volute and pump housing refers to the same component?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
In today's pumps, the volute and pump housing are the same.
VS allows you to run at lower RPM and thus lower electrical usage. The smaller VS will work fine for the pool as you do not use the spa. As of July 19, 2021, you will not be able to purchase a motor greater than 1.1 THP for a pool pump that is NOT variable speed.
VS allows you to run at lower RPM and thus lower electrical usage. The smaller VS will work fine for the pool as you do not use the spa. As of July 19, 2021, you will not be able to purchase a motor greater than 1.1 THP for a pool pump that is NOT variable speed.
Ok. How much HP should I be looking for? My current whsiperflo is 2HP.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Again, without needing to run the spa as designed, the 1.5 hp VS would work just fine. Most use would be at lower RPM.
You do not show a Salt Water Chlorine Generator, so I assume you add liquid chlorine on a daily basis for chlorination purposes.
You do not show a Salt Water Chlorine Generator, so I assume you add liquid chlorine on a daily basis for chlorination purposes.
Yes I use liquid chlorine.
Don't I need to upgrade my control panel(timer) as well if I get a VS pump? currently its Compool LX-100
- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Unsure on the controller. I have heard of upgrading the Compool LX3800 but nothing on the LX100
Like I said, you will be getting a VS motor eventually. Up to you on when you upgrade.
Like I said, you will be getting a VS motor eventually. Up to you on when you upgrade.
The controller upgrade will be expensive. Does FEMA covers these pool repair costs?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I have 2" pipe lines, can i get a superflo 1.5" pipe size? Will it affect the performance/efficiency of the pump at all?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Until the piping is repaired, you could put a sump pump in your pool to get some circulation in the water when you add chlorine.
Ok finally I found someone to fix my broken PVC lines and the valves. But now on running the pump, there is no water circulation. The pump is running but I don't see any water movement in the pump basket.
I checked the skimmer and pump basket and both are clean. The pump hasn't been run since February. There might be air in the lines. Is that what causing the problem? I tried filling the pump basket but no luck.
Any tips?
I checked the skimmer and pump basket and both are clean. The pump hasn't been run since February. There might be air in the lines. Is that what causing the problem? I tried filling the pump basket but no luck.
Any tips?
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Turned out a broken pump basket lid/clamp caused a leak. Once pushed down on the lid, the pump started priming.
Ok, So I started my SLAM process on Saturday evening, poured 12 gallons of liquid chlorine already, cleaned my filters twice, need to clean it again this evening as the pressure is running high.
The water has greatly improved from dark green to cloudy blue. It's been cloudy since yesterday afternoon. I kept dumping more chlorine as I still have mustard algae infestation on certain spots and creates a yellow cloud on stirring. Took a reading just now and I have 8ppm FC and 7.6ppm PH. FC need to be atleast 10ppm. (CYA less than 30ppm)
Should I worry about the cloudiness yet or just wait and keep adding chlorine? I haven't measured anything except FC and PH(just once) so far. CC is 0.5ppm
The water has greatly improved from dark green to cloudy blue. It's been cloudy since yesterday afternoon. I kept dumping more chlorine as I still have mustard algae infestation on certain spots and creates a yellow cloud on stirring. Took a reading just now and I have 8ppm FC and 7.6ppm PH. FC need to be atleast 10ppm. (CYA less than 30ppm)
Should I worry about the cloudiness yet or just wait and keep adding chlorine? I haven't measured anything except FC and PH(just once) so far. CC is 0.5ppm
Don't worry about the cloudiness. That will clear as the slam progresses. Keep hitting your slam target as often as you can to keep the pool at slam levels. While you are slamming testing only FC is fine. When you start seeing clear water you can start testing pH and CC again.
Still cloudy as of this morning and yellowish on some spots and it creates a yellow cloud when sweeping the floor. Can't see the pool floor yet.
I am running out of chlorine. Just got one bottle left and the local stores are all out. I do have dichlor tabs though.
I will be out of town the whole of next week. (17-25). Should I just drop off 3-4 tabs on the floater before I leave on Saturday? Hope it doesn't ruin all my work so far. My CYA is <30ppm. I guess the dichlor won't do too much damage in a week with CYA?
I am running out of chlorine. Just got one bottle left and the local stores are all out. I do have dichlor tabs though.
I will be out of town the whole of next week. (17-25). Should I just drop off 3-4 tabs on the floater before I leave on Saturday? Hope it doesn't ruin all my work so far. My CYA is <30ppm. I guess the dichlor won't do too much damage in a week with CYA?
You might lose a little ground since tablets release slowly. Maybe use a 16 ounce bag of cal-hypo to bring the pool to slam level and some tablets in the floater to help keep it there, if your CH is not too high.
HD/Lowes/Walmart are all out of chlorine, shock and so on. Not sure they might carry cal-hypo. The entire rack was empty.
These are my readings this morning
FC- 8.5 ppm
CC-0.5 ppm
ph - 7.6 ppm
TA - 60 ppm
CH - 130 ppm
For some reason these yellow dust is not getting neutralized by chlorine. I can sweep the floor and still create a cloud even after running pump all night and CC is only 0.5 ppm. Do I really have to vacuum it out? Its hard since I can't see the floor yet. Cleaned the filters again last night. Its looks white/milky now and no more greenish.
Only guess I have is maybe a dying filter not doing a good job? It's 20 years old and maybe time to replace it. I did clean it with TSP last summer. But again it hasn't been used since February. It shouldnt be that bad to keep the water cloudy.
These are my readings this morning
FC- 8.5 ppm
CC-0.5 ppm
ph - 7.6 ppm
TA - 60 ppm
CH - 130 ppm
For some reason these yellow dust is not getting neutralized by chlorine. I can sweep the floor and still create a cloud even after running pump all night and CC is only 0.5 ppm. Do I really have to vacuum it out? Its hard since I can't see the floor yet. Cleaned the filters again last night. Its looks white/milky now and no more greenish.
Only guess I have is maybe a dying filter not doing a good job? It's 20 years old and maybe time to replace it. I did clean it with TSP last summer. But again it hasn't been used since February. It shouldnt be that bad to keep the water cloudy.
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Any tips on using pool floc? Just watched a youtube video and seems like I may have lot of microscopic debris still present which makes it cloudy. The floc will make it denser and settle down so it can be vacuumed out easily. Never tried this method before. But considering the fact that I have 8.5ppm FC, maybe its worth a shot? If not, I have to keep cleaning my filter daily until it eventually clears up.