Flexible pvc diameter

Christys is a wet use cement. After only a few minutes you will be able to pull a flex fitting apart.
Put a coat of glue on the pipe, wait 5 minutes, coat pipe again and fitting and put together, be sure to twist the fitting as it goes on or it will leak. Then LEAVE IT ALONE for at least 4 hours. If you pull on it or put it under pressure too soon it will come apart.
Been fixing spas for 25 years and they all use flex. Not my first rodeo...
Inside fittings are more difficult due to residue buildup inside pipe.
 
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Check interference fit of pipe and fitting. Pipe should easily go 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into the fitting.

If pipe bottoms inside the fitting hub without interference, proper fusion may
not be achieved.

What is interference fit?
A Interference fit is the pre-assembly test you apply to the pipe and fitting.

After pipe is chamfered you will dry fit the pipe into the fitting and you will want resistance between 1/3 and 1/2 way into the fitting.

This will allow for a good bond when cement is applied.

If there is no interference fit, you should not try to cement the pipe and fittings together.

Quoted from Oatey.
 
Not here to argue my friend, just sharing my experience. I have ran into this on numerous occasions and had no problems using the method I described. Nothing to lose by trying, the spa can be replumbed later if it doesn't work.
Not a fan of oatey cement, or pool-tite. But I have been amazed by some of the things I have managed with Christys.
 
Cut pipe square, deburr, and wipe clean. Make a trial dry fit – pipe should fit snugly 1/3 – 2/3 snugly into fitting.

Excessive tolerances (gap) between pipe and fitting that cannot be “filled” by the solvent cement being used.

Check pipe and fitting for proper
dry fit before cementing.

For a good interference fit, the pipe
should easily slip into the fitting
1/3 to 2/3 of the way.

Too tight of a fit is not acceptable because the pipe may not be able to bottom into fitting during assembly.

If the pipe bottoms in the fitting with no interference but not loose, a satisfactory joint can be made provided the pipe and fitting are not out of round.

To see if a fitting is acceptable for bonding, hold a short piece of the pipe in a vertical position and insert the fitting on the end.

If the fitting falls out of the pipe, do not assemble.

Call your pipe and fitting supplier. All pipe and fittings must conform to ASTM or other recognized standards.


 

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Actually the 6hp was from a parts supplier when I was looking for another way to re pipe this. The motor spec plate doesn't show a number in the hp box.
 

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It's about 3 hp.

In any case, if the coupling is loose, I would not use the pipe.

Maybe try to find a schedule 80 coupling or a different brand of coupling that might be a little bit tighter.

They make extra deep socket couplings, maybe try one of those.

Would it be difficult to just replace the pipe?
 
It's a portable spa, it is all flex. As it is the single speed pump it will run to a diverter valve on the other side of the spa, possibly buried in foam depending on brand. It cannot be removed from the diverter as everything but pump and heater unions are glued, so if you replace the diverter you will have 2 old pipes to glue rather than just 1. To avoid glueing to an old pipe you must replumb the spa, which is ridiculously expensive and foolish. If you had ever worked on a portable spa you would know this.
If it were possible to just replace it that would have been my recommendation as well. But the repair I recommended has been successful for me hundreds if not thousands of times without ever blowing apart in spite of your assurances that it will. The key is cure time on the cement. It is not like rigid pool pipe that can be pressurized after a few minutes. I have pulled flex joints apart by hand 10 minutes after glueing with new pipe after realizing a mistake. Try that with rigid.
 
Maybe I'm thinking that the coupling is looser than it is.

If it's not super loose, you can try a long socket coupling, heavy duty glue and wait 12 hours to dry.

Do you have a picture or video about how loose the coupling is?
 
Ok after waiting on the parts and Christy's cement and primer, I'm back into this. Phase one was applying cement to build up the flex o.d. I had to apply a second coat because after the first dried, the coupling was still loose
 

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Based on your description of how loose the coupling is, I have serious doubts that the coupling is going to hold at all.

Get one of the deep couplings and see how snug that goes on. If it's reasonably snug, it might work.

Also, you need to clean off the spray on insulation before trying to glue the fitting.

You just need to glue the pipe and the socket and then hold them together for 60 seconds.

Don't do the glue buildup thing. If you need to do that, the coupling is too loose.

Allow 12 hours before pressurizing.
 
James, thanks. I grabbed my last coupling out of the box not thinking about dwv vs pressure. I did clean all the spray foam from the flex. Ill have to pick up a pressure fitting tomorrow. I did also pick up an inside fit coupling ( slip) for a last resort as I am probably not going to re pipe this thing if none of these attempts work
 

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