Maybe something like travertine, something natural that soaks up water. Or maybe a plank wood-look ceramic tile with a texture to give it some grip, and indoor/outdoor area rug(s).Thank you @bmoreswim we are doing the 10' wide (1 door 2 windows with a front porch and 3 posts) x 20' deep shed on concrete pad. each room will get a ceiling light. The vinyl siding and door will match our house. exposed wood, No dry wall, what should I use for the floor in the front changing room with everyone would be coming in soaking wet? the front porch would be concrete floor.
Maybe something like travertine, something natural that soaks up water. Or maybe a plank wood-look ceramic tile with a texture to give it some grip, and indoor/outdoor area rug(s).
You want to backfill with 3/4 clean gravel. Vermiculite is only for the pool floor. The footing for the wall is road base gravel you dont want that installed until wall is to be actually built it will contaminate with dirt til then. Let the ground settle til spring and make sure you compact now and then again in spring and dont skimp on the patio base and use geotextile underneath it
I would agree..winter work can be less than quality in some cases
You never posted any detailed pics so it is hard to say from your sketch However I see 2 issues with the pool placement. The first is you are setting yourself up fo far more maintenance by hugging the tree line like that. Do you own into the woods? Can you clear any more behind the pool? I am a big fan of having pool close to house but I would not want to have all that added maintenance.
The second is the 6' of retaining. Typically you try to split the difference on these types of things and do more of a cut and fill. The advantage to raising the pool would be you can then just use a more of slope on the low side and save the cost of retaining walls. You will have the extra dirt from the excavation.
I know it has been mentioned a few times before but I can not stress enough about proper compaction. Leaving loosely placed dirt to "settle" over the winter is what liner pool builders love to do. It is absolutely not acceptable. As Jimmy said be sure the backfilling is done with clean stone. Use all that slope to your advantage and insist on a drain from the bottom of the pool out to daylight. This allows you to avoid a sump pit.
I agree trees make more work (true in our pool), but at least OP mentioned an automatic cover so hopefully that should help some.
You never posted any detailed pics so it is hard to say from your sketch However I see 2 issues with the pool placement. The first is you are setting yourself up fo far more maintenance by hugging the tree line like that. Do you own into the woods? Can you clear any more behind the pool? I am a big fan of having pool close to house but I would not want to have all that added maintenance.
The second is the 6' of retaining. Typically you try to split the difference on these types of things and do more of a cut and fill. The advantage to raising the pool would be you can then just use a more of slope on the low side and save the cost of retaining walls. You will have the extra dirt from the excavation.
I know it has been mentioned a few times before but I can not stress enough about proper compaction. Leaving loosely placed dirt to "settle" over the winter is what liner pool builders love to do. It is absolutely not acceptable. As Jimmy said be sure the backfilling is done with clean stone. Use all that slope to your advantage and insist on a drain from the bottom of the pool out to daylight. This allows you to avoid a sump pit.
I am having difficulty picturing the split and raising the pool part, are you saying semi above ground? , could you please explain in greater details, I think this could be a great cost saving idea for us.
Potentially.. It might not have started out this way however, projects of this scope are usually best laid out by engineer or architect. They take a survey of your property and then they can figure all the cuts and fills on the computer.
they also have the layout and elevations of the septic system to work around that as well. It could possibly save you money in a long run by not having to put in as much hard scape. And it will almost always end up a better looking project.
With that be said, I could certainly give you some ideas and places to start but it would require a survey of the property. This is usually on the as built of the septic system which you can get from the town. It is very hard to tell elevation changes with pictures.
The idea of raising the pool would be if you raise the pool 2 ft, And you now only need 4 ft of retainage. However you have a 2-ft drop on the other side of the pool now. But this could easily be filled in with The extra dirt from the dig. However it does make a steeper slope on that side.
I'm not trying to change your whole project here but I see this happen all the time. You start with a simple thing like "I want a pool in my backyard. pool builder comes in and suggests moving it to the side because of a few issues and the cost. Then by the time you're done dealing with all the extra issues you created by moving it to the side of your house you don't revisit actually putting it behind your house again to see if the cost might be the same or even cheaper now.
For privacy issues and potential grading issues behind the house would be the best scenario.
Most septics can be covered over with more fill dirt they just cant be built on. It's as simple as extending the riser and any pvc inspection ports. I agree the location is critical anytime you can lose the excavated dirt and avoid walls is a win. Often the hardscaping with large retaining walls is a huge chunk of the budget.
When it comes to the patio you want virgin ground to build on. Any dirt moved has to be compacted to no end. We wont even build on fill we bring it all DGA and compact in lifts if it needs to be done now. Otherwise we use a huge diesel compactor and do in lifts and leave it for the spring. SRW makes a good geotextile it can be the large precut pieces overlapped or off of a huge roll. Think of it as rebar in concrete but in your patio base. You want to so everything possible to avoid settling it costs twice as much to redo after the fact.
What kind of steps are the 8' steps? With an auto cover I would think they are internal stairs
Most septics can be covered over with more fill dirt they just cant be built on. It's as simple as extending the riser and any pvc inspection ports. I agree the location is critical anytime you can lose the excavated dirt and avoid walls is a win. Often the hardscaping with large retaining walls is a huge chunk of the budget.
When it comes to the patio you want virgin ground to build on. Any dirt moved has to be compacted to no end. We wont even build on fill we bring it all DGA and compact in lifts if it needs to be done now. Otherwise we use a huge diesel compactor and do in lifts and leave it for the spring. SRW makes a good geotextile it can be the large precut pieces overlapped or off of a huge roll. Think of it as rebar in concrete but in your patio base. You want to so everything possible to avoid settling it costs twice as much to redo after the fact.
What kind of steps are the 8' steps? With an auto cover I would think they are internal stairs