Serious help needed

[zea3]

You will find the amount you need in PoolMath. You can buy plain CYA from any pool store, or if there is a Walmart nearby you can probably get it there cheaper. They carry some pool supplies in the garden or toy sections. The product will say stabilizer, conditioner, or CYA. Just make sure the active ingredient is Cyanuric Acid.

 

[richardc]

My pool math calculations are as follows: aprox 32000 gallons; needing aprox 132 oz of stabilizer.....that is just over 8 lbs. Yes???

 

[zea3]

That sounds about right. I would add it in two batches. Load the first batch up in a clean white sock, tie it off and drop it in the skimmer basket with the pump running. Give it a few good squeezes every couple of hours to help it dissolve faster. When the sock is empty test the CYA level to see where you are at. Add enough for the second batch based on the test result to meet your goal.

 

[richardc]

I have added stabilizer via the skimmer baskets. I am reluctant to tie the knee highs to the returns given the fact that one cannot see down. I have about 2 lbs.in a knee high in each skimmer, with the goal being to eventually dissolve 132 oz. total. I will watch to see how quickly the stabilizer dissolves. I await your further guidance. Thank you !

 

[stodds]

I would move them out of the skimmer if I were you. The first place your new CYA "dust" will go is your filter. The filter that is probably gunked up with algae. I put a pole across the pool and tie the knee high to it. You can always pull it up to inspect. Just my $0.02.

Also, once the first "batch" of CYA is gone from the sock, it may not immediately register on a test. Don't freak out and add extra. That would put you in a bad spot (i.e. too much CYA making the SLAM more difficult).

 

[zea3]

I would move them out of the skimmer if I were you. The first place your new CYA "dust" will go is your filter. The filter that is probably gunked up with algae. I put a pole across the pool and tie the knee high to it. You can always pull it up to inspect. Just my $0.02.

Also, once the first "batch" of CYA is gone from the sock, it may not immediately register on a test. Don't freak out and add extra. That would put you in a bad spot (i.e. too much CYA making the SLAM more difficult).

The CYA dissolves very well when contained in a sock. There will be no solid particles to catch in a filter when using the sock method in a skimmer basket.

 

[woodyp]

Ditto on what zea3 said..........................

 

[richardc]

I would move them out of the skimmer if I were you. The first place your new CYA "dust" will go is your filter. The filter that is probably gunked up with algae. I put a pole across the pool and tie the knee high to it. You can always pull it up to inspect. Just my $0.02.

Also, once the first "batch" of CYA is gone from the sock, it may not immediately register on a test. Don't freak out and add extra. That would put you in a bad spot (i.e. too much CYA making the SLAM more difficult).

Not a bad idea. However my pole is not long enough to go across the pool. I suppose I could tie it to a chair on the deck adjacent to a return. However, I still would be afraid of it dropping into the pool, and potentially clogging the drain? Right now one cannot see down the pool so it would be a potential nightmare if it dropped. Other ideas?

- - - Updated - - -

That sounds about right. I would add it in two batches. Load the first batch up in a clean white sock, tie it off and drop it in the skimmer basket with the pump running. Give it a few good squeezes every couple of hours to help it dissolve faster. When the sock is empty test the CYA level to see where you are at. Add enough for the second batch based on the test result to meet your goal.

I went out and squeezed after a couple of hours and will continue to squeeze away on that time schedule. Thank you !

 

[richardc]

Let me try

FAS/DPD tests two things that are critical elements of TFP pool care, which is why its necessary to use this specific test.

First, it tests your free chlorine - FC.
- add powder to 10 mm mark on tube, turns pink, add and count drops of reagent 087 until clear, divide the number by 2 and that's your FC.

This test is superior to other Free Chlorine tests because it can test to a higher range and is more accurate.

Knowing FC is one half of the "trouble free" equation you can see here: [fc/cya][/fc/cya]

The second part of the FAS/DPD test is for cc, or combined chlorine, whch is chloramines. Think of it as "spent" chlorine that has combined with something, like algae or bacteria or urine or sweat, to neutralize it.

After testing "free" chlorine (chlorine that is ready to go to work) and you've added the last drop to get the sample clear, you now add 5 drops of reagent 003 until you see color -- if there's no color, there's no CC.

If after 1 drop it turns clear, you have .5 ppm of CC. If it takes 2 dros, you have 1 ppm of CC. And so on.

Your CC information is used in part to determine if you might need to slam...or if something else is combining with the chlorine. So if you have a CC of say 2 ppm, its one part of an indication that your "free" chlorine is getting tied up killing something and might need some extra help

In the SLAM Process protocol, CC of .5 or less is one part of the equation that tells us the water is stable now (together with minimal FC loss overnight and visibly clear water) and that if all 3 are good, you're finished the slam.

So while in end effect, if you add up your FC and your CC from the two steps, you do have 'total" chlorine, that in itself is meaningless.

But each of the FC and CC reading steps is important in the TFP method because it tells you, via the FC/cya ratio, if the water is properly sanitized, and/or in the case of too-low FC and high CC, if trouble is afoot and a slam is in order.

The slam will oxidize the cc material, which is what you want

Its the CC material that gives a heavy chlorine smell. TFP pools don't smell heavily of chlorine.

Thank you, and I understand

 

[richardc]

All conditioner has been added to the knee highs in the skimmer baskets. I am squeezing every few hours. With active squeezing I anticipate all CYA will be dissolved within 24-36 hours. Assuming that is accurate, how long do I wait after all is dissolved before my next test?

 

[richardc]

I have a question about the SLAM procedure and FC and CYA readings and levels. According to the chart, once one's CYA is around 30, your shock level is a number that is far below what my last reading was. Will my FC reading drop once my CYA reading rises to around 30? What does a "shock" level mean in comparison to a FC reading?? Thank you for your patience and help!

 

[kimkats]

All conditioner has been added to the knee highs in the skimmer baskets. I am squeezing every few hours. With active squeezing I anticipate all CYA will be dissolved within 24-36 hours. Assuming that is accurate, how long do I wait after all is dissolved before my next test?

Once the CYA is all dissolved and the pump has been on most of the day or overnight you should be able to test for the CYA. BUT set go ahead and set your CYA at what your goal was and go from there.

I have a question about the SLAM procedure and FC and CYA readings and levels. According to the chart, once one's CYA is around 30, your shock level is a number that is far below what my last reading was. Will my FC reading drop once my CYA reading rises to around 30? What does a "shock" level mean in comparison to a FC reading?? Thank you for your patience and help!

Here is a link just to make sure you have it:

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Shock=SLAM (something that will be changed in the future on this link)

While you are SLAMing the pool your FC should be at 12 since your CYA goal was 30. It needs to be Maintained there as much as possible. Every time your FC drops below 12 you are not SLAMing.

Your FC level will drop as it kills the algae in your pool and during the day the sun will take some as well. The CYA will help protect the FC from the sun but the algae will eat your FC up and fast during the first few days.

Does this answer your questions? Let me know if you are still unsure about something.

Kim

 

[Swampwoman]

OOPS, cross-posted with Kim

Shock level in the TFP method is 40 percent of your CYA level. That is considered to be the "level" at which you can oxidize stuff not wanted in the water, eg algae.

If your CYA is 30, to be at shock or slam level, you dose your FC to be at 12, and keep it at or slightly above 12 for a sustained period of time (usually days not hours.) That's the "Maintain" part of Shock Level And Maintain, which is what SLAM stands for.

So, regular TFP water sanitation is roughly 7.5% of CYA reading, and "shock" is roughly 40% of CYA.

Sometimes in a serious swamp recovery, if the SLAM target is 12 ppm FC, you might dose a bit higher, such as 14 or 15, so that you stay ABOVE the shock level if your away from te pool for a few hours. But its generally not a good idea to go too mch higher than your shock level because ultimately you do not want to damage your lner, which can fade if left at super high FC levels.

The takeaway from my explanation is that the cornerstone of TFP methods is the CYA level and the proportion of FC needed for sanitation. Hence the [fc/cya][/FC/cya] chart

 

[richardc]

OOPS, cross-posted with Kim

Shock level in the TFP method is 40 percent of your CYA level. That is considered to be the "level" at which you can oxidize stuff not wanted in the water, eg algae.

If your CYA is 30, to be at shock or slam level, you dose your FC to be at 12, and keep it at or slightly above 12 for a sustained period of time (usually days not hours.) That's the "Maintain" part of Shock Level And Maintain, which is what SLAM stands for.

So, regular TFP water sanitation is roughly 7.5% of CYA reading, and "shock" is roughly 40% of CYA.

Sometimes in a serious swamp recovery, if the SLAM target is 12 ppm FC, you might dose a bit higher, such as 14 or 15, so that you stay ABOVE the shock level if your away from te pool for a few hours. But its generally not a good idea to go too mch higher than your shock level because ultimately you do not want to damage your lner, which can fade if left at super high FC levels.

The takeaway from my explanation is that the cornerstone of TFP methods is the CYA level and the proportion of FC needed for sanitation. Hence the [fc/cya][/fc/cya] chart

My confusion concerns my current FC reading which was at 16.5. That number exceeds the recommended levels in the CYA shocking chart, assuming my FC reading stays around that number when my CYA climbs to around 30. In other words what happens if my CYA reaches 30, and my FC is 16.5 ???? Or will my FC drop once the CYA hits 30 so I will have to shock to bring it back up? IF you look at my numbers from my first and only test perhaps my question will make more sense. TY

- - - Updated - - -

Once the CYA is all dissolved and the pump has been on most of the day or overnight you should be able to test for the CYA. BUT set go ahead and set your CYA at what your goal was and go from there.



Here is a link just to make sure you have it:

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Shock=SLAM (something that will be changed in the future on this link)

While you are SLAMing the pool your FC should be at 12 since your CYA goal was 30. It needs to be Maintained there as much as possible. Every time your FC drops below 12 you are not SLAMing.

Your FC level will drop as it kills the algae in your pool and during the day the sun will take some as well. The CYA will help protect the FC from the sun but the algae will eat your FC up and fast during the first few days.

Does this answer your questions? Let me know if you are still unsure about something.

Kim

My confusion concerns my current FC reading which was at 16.5. That number exceeds the recommended levels in the CYA shocking chart, assuming my FC reading stays around that number when my CYA climbs to around 30. In other words what happens if my CYA reaches 30, and my FC is 16.5 ???? Or will my FC drop once the CYA hits 30 so I will have to shock to bring it back up? IF you look at my numbers from my first and only test perhaps my question will make more sense. TY

 

[kimkats]

The CYA level will not affect the FC levels at all. The things that will lower your FC levels are algae, sun, "stuff" left behind by swimmers, etc. If you test your FC right now I think you will find it is quite a bit lower due to the algae eating it.

It is very important that you test your FC as often as possible. The first couple/few days you will find the algae eats it quite fast.

I think I understand and hope this answers it.

Kim

 

[Mike1162]

16.5 is a little high for CYA @ 30 but was way too high for a pool with CYA @ 0.
Before adding CYA you were about 14 ppm too high. Now you will be 4 ppm too high.
Does that explanation help? We want you to understand completely.

 

[Swampwoman]

Adding the cya will not directly impact your reading, but having added it will help protect the chlorine a bit from wearing off as fast. Technically, your reading of 16 was a bit higher than we recommend but no worries, you'll be able to get everything dialed in now.

Your reading of 16 ppm FC will already have changed and likely dropped by now.

What is your reading this morning?

Now that you have your test kit, there's no more guess-work...you can follow the SLAM Process steps.

So, read your FC. Use PoolMath to calculate how much liquid chlorine/bleach to add to get a bit over 12...check the FC again in a few hours to see how much was used up. If its below 12, add bleach again.

Check out the links to get comfortable with the process and post us some pictures when you're able so we can see color change. Don't forget to run your filter 24/7 during slam.

 

[richardc]

The stabilizer is slowly dissolving;I have given it several tugs, and squezzes; it's about 85 percent dissolved. My readings as of this afternoon:

FC 5.5
CC 3.0 to 3.5
TA 210
PH 7.8
CH 150
CYA 26-28

The pool color remains a mint green. I will wait until all of the CYA is fully dissolved, and test tomorrow before attempting to slam. I do want to see what the FC and CYA levels are b4 proceeding with a SLAM. Am I missing anything? Do my numbers seem to be in line with your expectations? Thank you !

 

[richardc]

How does one determind the amount of liquid chlorine to add to bring the level up to shock level? Assuming I need a shock level of 12, and my FC is say, 4, how much would I add to attempt to hit that number? I did not see a formula on the calculator nor in the slam part. Thank you.

 

[tucsontico]

How does one determind the amount of liquid chlorine to add to bring the level up to shock level? Assuming I need a shock level of 12, and my FC is say, 4, how much would I add to attempt to hit that number? I did not see a formula on the calculator nor in the slam part. Thank you.

Simply click on the PoolMath button at the top of this page. This may seem a bit backwards, but scroll to the bottom of the PoolMath page and you'll see a yellow box labeled "Suggested Goal Levels". In the first pull down menu labeled "Use selected goal levels from:", select "TroubleFreePool.com" In the next line, select "Bleach" for chlorine source and "Vinyl" for pool surface. After that scroll back to the top and put in the values from your test in the left column (labeled "Now") and the desired numbers in the right column (labeled "Target"). Once completed, PoolMath will calculate each chemical required to get to your goal based on the volume of your pool and the primary form of chlorine you're using. Good Luck!