How long after adding chemicals does it take for them to get fully mixed in the pool, so that you can test the new level accurately? In case it's different for different chemicals, I am particularly interested in liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and cya (which I put in the skimmer).

My pool is 24K gallons and I use the TF-100 test kit.

Thank you.

Mey_23 said:

I removed the back plate on the unit and left it off that stoped the noise right away. Seems like it has trouble getting air for the blower. Once I removed it it stopped. Hope that helps.

Click to expand...

I'm having a similar issue, reported over in this thread
Pentair Mastertemp 250 screaming/whining on ignite

I took the side cover off mine and it didn't help but putting my hand over the intake changes the sound. See here:
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I am in the process of trying to decide on my pool build. It’s a pretty small pool (limited by my tiny backyard size) 75’ linear permitter, 3-5.5 Ft depth, only about 8k gallons. I think I am going to with a SWG. The proposed salt water generator the pool builder I am leaning towards put in my bid is an IC-30 Salt Chlorinator. I assume that is big enough given the number of gallons. When I posted options in another thread for pool builds I was considering someone pointed out that I didn’t have an Intellicenter and I was only quoted the SWG as a standalone. Do I need an intellicenter? I asked the pool builder and he said since I don’t have a heater or spa, he didn’t think I needed one. Thoughts?

My Jandy has a lit green LCD display but their is nothing on the screen. The system was purchased in March. What can I do?

During the 2021 freeze, my first Polaris cleaner cracked in the usual place on the bottom of the pump housing. Since we were coming out of the pandemic, of course parts weren’t available so I had to buy a new one. I now have 2 with cracked pump housings.

I ordered the redesign today but I can’t find any torque specs if any on the 4 bolts or if I should use blue loctite. Anyone know?

In previous threads, I was recommended to run our SWG more often. What I decided to do is to run it 36 hours. Day, night, day. Then I stopped running at night and only run during the day for 12 hours.

My thought process was that this would increase the FC levels and then begin to maintain during the day, chlorinating as FC was burned off.

My most recent test reads 7.5 FC with the 2006. Is my method reasonable? I intend to test once or twice more before we leave for another vacation, but I’m hoping this has assisted my undersized cell.

What are your thoughts? I realize that 7.5 is a little high, but it gives me some confidence that I can back down from 100% potentially.

Open to any feedback or criticism of my thought process.

two days ago, I’m just opening the pool and found my pH low (using a Taylor big kit):
FC:6
PH:7.0
TA 65
CH 250
CYA 75.

Pool Math app suggested 9 pounds of 20 mule team borax. I put in 4 pounds, even though I don’t have borax in my pool. I happen to have an unopened box, so I used it. I have a salt, water, pool and plaster.

Two days later, today:
FC: 1.5
PH: unknown. It looks to be way off the scale, above 8.0. Super dark pink.
TA 65
CH 250
CYA 75.

I tried to find something on the forums that would explain, but I couldn’t. Should I use muriatic acid to bring it down?

Thanks for the help.

Hey All,

I wanted to introduce myself and ask a question about pool equipment. My wife and I just purchased a house in the Phoenix area and I am in the process of learning how to take care of the pool. Please forgive me if some of my terminology or knowledge is wrong, I'm still learning.

The pool was re-done by the previous home owner and has one suction side fitting in the skimmer basket area. There is no longer a flapper going into the skimmer area to prevent surface debris from re-exiting. There also isn't a vacuum port on the side of the pool, so I have to use either the vacuum hose attachment or the skimmer basket. The pool has a variable speed pump.

I wanted to add a VacMate like this (link) but the basket for the VacMates I have found is too large for the skimmer basket area in my pool (7"). I was also considering a surface skimmer that attaches to the vacuum hose (link). Does anybody have any experience with these products, or something similar?

Mostly I am using the vacuum system and skimming my pool with a net, and want something to help supplement the manual skimming. My goal is to be able to vacuum and skim the pool, hopefully simultaneously.

I've posted about this several times over the years, but it's happening again.

I flipped the breakers, reset the controller, still nothing. I opened up the crontroller to see if there was anything causing a short, but couldn't find anything that looked wrong or out of place.

Everything's been fine for months and then suddenly this.

Ideas? Probably just going tocall a pool gut.... so tired of this recurring problem

Hi, We recently had a pool and a hot tub installed. The hot tub has 8 jets and when we turn on the jets and the blower, the water is spewing out of the hot tub. We are having difficulty getting our pool builder to provide support to us, so I was wondering if anyone here can help us with what are the appropriate settings in the iaqualink app. Just so you know, the distance between the pump and the hot tub is over 40 feet.

Currently I have it set at
Pump /Model - ePump, Application - Aux Pump, Min - 600, Max - 3450 Priming Speed - 2500. Then we go into the Speed Setup and Speed 1 - 2500 - Assign to Aux - Spa Jet, Speed 2 - 750 - Assign to Aux Spa Air Blow.

It doesn't seem to matter what i change, nothing seems to reduce the water spewing out of the hot tub.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

I have a 1970s-built pool that has held up surprisingly well, but the grout (or whatever it is) between the coping and tile is deteriorating in places. I have been researching what the best thing is to use to repair it and am getting all kinds of different answers. One place said sanded grout with some kind of additive to make it usable in a wet environment. My pool guy who has been in the business since the 60s said I should use white Portland cement mixed 1:1 with marble dust. And I found a thread on here that said to use deck-o-seal or sikaflex (sp). This is a project we CAN do ourselves, but I don't understand the difference between these different methods and if there are benefits of one over the other. Can anyone shed some light on it?

Hello All,
Happy Father's Day to all the Fathers out there.

We just put a deposit on a new house in Stuart, FL which is under construction in a brand new development. Closing hopefully, by Nov-Dec time frame, and looking to put in a 36' x 14' with a Spa and tanning shelf along 1 side and a Lap Lane and waterfall on the other. Meeting with 6 PBs week after next. since we are new to Florida, was hoping for some advice along the way. I checked all the 6 PBs to see if they are licensed in Florida and 5 are currently licensed, 1 has an expired license*. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge with these PBs:

(Apex Pavers and pools)
(A&G pools)
(RHR pools)
(Premier pools)
(Van Kirk pools)
(Swimming pool experts)

Edit by Jim R. No links allowed for new members...

We want a 5-6 person, Therapeutic-type Spa with multiple jets grouped together and maybe a lounge. most PBs I have talked to will only do what they do, not much variation, so looking for a PB that will listen to what we want.
I am attaching a rough design from one of the PBs.

Thanks,
Randy

1

I am having the worst time trying to get the MyDolphin app to work with my power supply and robot. I keep getting to the point it says “Oops… The power supply doesn’t recognize your robot”. The power supply is the one that came with my Dolphin Proteus DX3 robot. It is a Maytronic LTD IP 54 Advanced 115 power supply. Anyone have any input on this problem? I tried at the end of last season but didn’t think much about it during the winter, but I would like to get the benefits of what I paid for cleaner. Any input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Tony

I’ve only noticed this a couple of times. The first was last winter and I thought maybe it was a sticky valve due to cold weather. I heard it again this morning and it’s 90+ degrees outside. It sounds like a bunch of rocks rattling around inside an aluminum can. Any clues as to what the issue is? Thx

My Triton sand filter is not doing as good a job as it used to. The sand hasn't been changed in 10 years. Just recently, I had to hand vacuum my pool when the Aquabot died. As I was vacuuming, I noticed cloudy water coming from the returns. I stopped, backwashed, and then started vacuuming again, but the same thing happened. Time for new sand? Thanks.

Hello, I’m in need of some guidance. I need to replace the pentair quad 80 cartridge filters x 4. They are not cheap in price. Any idea of possible options for the OEM 178655 filter. Please advise. Thank you

These are my test results today. Leslie’s said they weren’t concerned with Cyanuric Acid levels, even though it’s through the roof. Told me to keep an eye on Phosphates, which I think is the least of my problems!

Should I continue to drain and add fresh water, to lower Cyanuric acid and Copper? I’m only using liquid chlorine. I’m not using tabs or Leslie’s shock anymore.

This is my 3rd season with the pool, and I’m trying to figure it out.

Thank you!

Noticed this morning my Hayward Aqua Rite 900 has no power, aka no LCD screen or LED light indicator. Did the basic troubleshooting, the board is getting 243V and the 20A fuse is good. I did find this piece on the control board marked “R18” that looks a little toasty. We’ve had some bad thunderstorms the last few days and I just replaced a TV that mysteriously went black (although that LED still comes on) so I’m thinking maybe we had some lightning coke close enough to cause some damage. The pump still works fine at least.

Anyone think of anything else I could test/try or should I consider my troubleshooting complete and order a new control board? I’m not sure what R18 actually is and if it would be worth replacing that individual component or just assume it’s a lost cause.

Misipi boy who spent career in Alaska and retired to AZ. As I like to say “I jumped out of the freezer straight into the frying pan!” I KNEW NOTHING about pools but have been learning a lot. This looks like a great site and I look forward to having access to the wealth of knowledge that must exist. Thx

Hello everyone,

After finally getting my pool fixed and up and running I am at the point i can start tweaking pump settings. I have a Hayward Max Flo VS 500 1.65 THP on 2 inch piping pumping on a 25000 gallon pool (Main drain is dead only have 2 skimmers, pool size 36 by 16 rectangle). The pool has a T9 cell Hayward SWG at 60%. DE filter is DE4820 with current pressure at 7 psi. Currently the pump has been running 24/7 at 2850 RPM (530 watts), i imagine the electric bill is going to bite me in the butt in a few weeks. The kid at the pool store told me to run it 8 hours a day or all night if i add chemicals. What is your recommendation, how long should i run the pump? I am aware if the pump is not running 24/7 the SWG may need to be adjusted on the percentage of Chlorine production but given that TC went from 3.19 to 7.8 in 96 hours maybe i can leave it at 60%)

Not sure if relevant to this post but here are the latest AccuBlue test results (i know they are not the best but i dont have a TF-100 Salt kit yet):
FC 7.8
TC 7.8
pH 7.5
TA 78
CH 163
CYA 41
Iron 0.1
Copper 0.3
Phos 208
Salt 2900 (My hayward panel says 3400)

Electricity off after bad storms and tried to turn pump on. Will only stay on 15 seconds and then shuts off. I’ve checked the breaker and think I’ve cleared everything but don’t know next step.

Greetings,

My SWG (AutoPilot Pool Pilot Digital Nano) is currently displaying the error message: Low Amps, Cell.

Any idea where to start with fixing this? My pool company suggested that I might need to replace the power cord and/or the cell. In total, the pool company suggested that it would run ~$800 or $900 for both the power cord and the cell (~$200/$300 for the cell). Does this seem like a fair estimate? Their last quote for a replacement pool pump was very high, but they were willing to work with me to install a cheaper pump that I found on my own.

Also, is there anything cheaper I can pursue in the meantime to help diagnose the issue? I'd hate to spend that kind of money to begin with, let alone if it won't even fix the problem. I won't be able to physically access the SWG for myself until the end of July, so part of me wonders whether I can just treat the pool with regular chlorine until I can mess with the SWG for myself.

-thanksinadvance!

Hi all,

I believe I have an iron issue. Water starts to take on a slight green tint if my FC drifts up and I've had iron staining in the past when filling from my well. I've got a decent filter on the fill water now, but I'm sure soluble iron is still getting through.

Anyway, with a SWG the highest concentration of chlorine is at my returns. Since that's what causes iron oxidation (right?) it seems logical to me that polyfill filtration at the returns would do the most to capture the iron. A perusal of the forum for polyfill threads doesn't show anyone talking about this option that I can find. Might have missed it though.

I'm wondering if the flow rate at the returns would be too high, essentially flushing out any iron the polyfill captures.This makes sense I suppose since most suggest just stuffing the skimmers. To me that suggests slow flow rate as long as the main drain is still in use.

If I'm correct about the problem with something like a polyfill stuffed mesh bag on the returns, then has anyone tried attaching a flex pipe to the returns that runs up and out of the pool into a bucket of polyfill or similar? I keep thinking the higher chlorine concentration immediately downstream of the SWG will promote the best iron capture but since I don't see anyone talking about that I feel like I'm missing something.

Thanks!
Gary

Hello new to the ultratemp and cant get it to turn on from my intellitouch. It works manually and has the heartbeat indicator and no error messages. It will just say pool idle and display the water temp on the screen.

Screenlogic shows the heat pump and will let me turn on heat pump only but it just keeps flashing.

Yellow/green in J7 and pin 2/3 on the ultratemp. I added a solar temp probe,tried increasing gpm on my pump with mo luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What product would you use to patch this? I have some Kool deck paint but the thick surface bubbled and then broke.

Anyone has any info on why would my Pentair ETI 400 wont fire?

It turns on, blowers come on, I can smell gas but it shuts off after 60 to 90 second with "Service Heater" light and all of the buttons stop to respond to presses. When I pres "Heater" and Up buttons, I get "16n" on the screen, by pressing up button, also get "PS", "AFS" and END, while all of the trouble LED on the back of panel are off.

By looking at the controllers, the one on the left (see picture attached) has an LED and its off at all times and the one on the right, LED blinks 3 times while it tries to start up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I picked up some jugs at my local farm store and put them on my flatbed. The bet had something sharp on it and poked a hole in the jug as I was lifting them out. New shirt from Christmas so either the wife is going to make a shirt out of it or I just have a new work shirt.

SWG stopped working. Both "low temp" and "flow" lights are red. Temp is 83, flow is high. Disassembled cell; everything looks fine. Disassembled flow switch, everything also looks fine. Opened panel box and found some water in the bottom of the box; dried it. Nothing has helped. Any ideas?