My Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP pool pump has been slightly leaking and it is making sound while running and also getting hot. So, I am looking to replace it with a Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP motor. I bought the motor almost new and housing used from someone. However, the backplate within the housing has a screw stuck in it, so I may not be able to use it, but if I need to use it, I need to buy new diffuser and backplate. So I am investigating if I can use my current pentair's housing with this pump. I have the below questions:

1. Will the current Pentair housing fit the Jandy motor I bought?
2. Will my aqualink system will work with the Jandy motor and will I be able to control the variable speed of the new Jandy VSP motor if it is connected to my existing aqualink system? Currently I use an app to switch on and off the current motor and the app connects to the aqualink 2.0 device attached to the aqualink RS system via Wifi.
3. The current pipe diameter I have is 2 inch. Is my new 2.7 HP pump too powerful for my current pipes?
4. The current pool filter I have is a Hayward C1200. Will the new 2.7 HP pump be too powerful for my current filter?

Here are the details of the equipment I have:
Old pump:
Model name: Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP (Model SF-N1-1A/340038)
Motor model number: 196238
Housing model number: 350089 or 354704 REV D (not sure)

Current Pipe Diameter: 2 Inch

Current Pool Filter: Hayward 1200

Current Power center: Aqualink RS Power Center (Model 6612F or 6613/6613AP)
iAqualink 2.0, Aqualink: REV T.2, FW Rev: 4.0.6-w

Current Time Switch with Transformer: Intermatic Model T10004RT1

New Pump:
Model name: Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP (Possibly model#VSSHP270DV2A)
Motor model number: B0245806
Housing model number: VSSHP270DV2A (The backplate and diffuser are damaged and might need to be replaced if I need to use this)

Any help is really appreciated.

Long time lurker, first time poster, be gentle

The chlorine in my pool keeps dropping down to 0 after installing two different brand new chlorinators. Tried everything, including pre-emptive phosphate starver treatement. Help...

Historically used vintage metal box Kchlor AC20 non-self cleaning chlorinator kept the chlorine well, then failed.

Two months ago I replaced it with Freeflo RP25 self cleaning chlorinator. Water chemistry tests were balanced and salt level ok as confirmed by tests in three different pool shops. The chlorinator produced a lot of bubles, but the chlorine kept dropping down to zero after I top it up with liquid chlorine. Returned chlorinator after 1 month.

A month ago pool shop installed AstralPool E25 self cleaning chlorinator. Water chemistry tests were balanced and salt level ok as confirmed by tests in three different pool shops. The chlorinator produces a lot of bubles, but the chlorine keeps dropping down to zero after I top it up with liquid chlorine.

Total Cl: 0.16
Free Cl: 0.09
Combined Cl: 0.07
Salt: 4878
Ph: 7.5
Alk (adj): 110
Cya: 61
Hardness: 345
Phosphates: 0
Total Cu: 0

35,000 litre, concrete pool, in-ground, plaster, blanket
Sand filter, more than 10 years old
Peristaltic HCL doser
Solar heating was on, now off with the same result
Non-variable pumps, more than 10 years old
AstralPool E25 self cleaning
Chlorinator at maximum setting
Robot pool cleanter
Running 8 hours a day (8 am to 12 pm, 1 pm to 5 pm)
Water clear, but goes murky if I stop manually adding liquid Cl every day

Not sure if it is relevant, but the first two chlorinators used to produce white powder (CaCO3?) ouf the jets, the third one does not.

https://www.poolbarn.com.au/wp-cont...905-H0712400_REVB-AstralPool-Eseries-2023.pdf

I am aware that testing water yourself using Taylor test kit is more precise and I am planning to buy it in the future, but at this time I am relying on pool shop tests. I have tested water in three different pool shops who are using different test equipment with results showing similar results of balanced water and acceptable salt levels.

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Drawing up deck / patio plans for my 18 ft AGP. We're replacing the a-frame ladder with a generic deck-mount resin one. Not big steps, just what I would call a basic normal ladder.

Where we want to put the ladder is immediately next to the return jet eyeball. Other than physically blocking the jet with the ladder leg, is there much to concern myself over here? Can it end up too close?

MS Paint rendition

We opened our pool this pass weekend and have filter problems. While we are awaiting parts I am staring at thus green cess pool. Is it OK to add chlorine without the pump running?

Hello all,

I'm still a relatively new pool owner, just have about 2 months under my belt so I'm still getting my bearings in some areas. Pool chemicals are balanced and stable though, and that's what matters. Anyway, I got tired of manually vacuuming the pool, and having the cartridge get clogged up often because of it. It was getting to the point that as I was vacuuming I could see debris coming out of the returns. Just frustrating. Maybe I'm doing something wrong or my cartridge isn't functioning properly. Or maybe that's just par for the course with vacuuming directly into the pump.

Enter the Scuba S1. After a lot of research, and mostly decent reviews of the product here I decided to pull the trigger. It arrived today, and the box was honestly pretty beat up. I was surprised because it came FedEx, and I ordered it directly from Aiper. Interior packaging was solid though, and the unit was unharmed. After a quick charge to full I threw it into the pool on auto mode. We all watched it work on the walls for a minute, and it appeared to be doing a fine job. It came up and scrubbed the tile line for probably 5 seconds before heading back down. Then we wanted to see it work the floor so I put it on floor only mode, and it instantly started picking up debris. The pool wasn't terribly dirty, I just vacuumed it this past weekend, but after running for about 2 hours I fished it out because it was getting dark and I was curious. It was showing a yellow light, so it used most of the battery. I was honestly pretty surprised at how much it picked up, especially all the sand you can see in the bottom left of the basket. I'll be picking up the ultra fine cloth filter when it gets released for this model, but I am very pleased with the first run, and more pleased that I'll be able to swim without cleaning the pool when the weekend comes around.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to drop it in on the eco mode, which is supposed to clean for 45 minutes every 48 hours and we'll see how well it maintains the pool. This weekend I'll send it on a walls mission when I have time to watch how it progresses.

I put a new salt cell (Generic T-15) on my AquaPlus system. I'm getting "Chlorinator Off, No Cell Power" and "Check System, Cell Power 1" error messages. Read pretty much all the stuff here and elsewhere. Replaced the GLX-PCB-Pro mainboard with a new one. Changed the 20A fuse to 15A before starting up. Replaced Rectifiers. Transformer voltages seem fine. None of the mainboards appeared to have scorch marks or cold solder joints. I got the last new board to run for about 4 days and things seem fine. Now that board is giving me the errors. I also tried my old salt cell without luck.
I can't think of anything else at this point. I'm considering returning the mainboard and salt cell and trying yet again but I'm starting to have my doubts whether something else is going on. Any ideas?

I opened the pool about a month ago and everything has been fine. Today, before my daughter and I went for a swim, I connected the vacuum to the skimmer to give the floor a quick clean. At the end of our swim, we noticed that the returns were spitting out air intermittently. I stopped the pump. Opened the pump. Cleaned the basket. Backwashed the filter. Hours later, every few minutes or so, there will be a sputter.

Any ideas?

I have an Aqua Trol SWG with the inspect cell and check salt light on continuously. Tried to reset with 3 sec hold. Unplugged restarted, checked the cell. Nothing works. Less than one year old. Salt is 3100 Temp is 80. Should we call for service?

Hello,

Any idea how to add the intellichlor to the Pentair pool app? I have an Intelliconnect and have been able to add the whisperflo, master temp and light no problem, but I added the intellichlor following the prompts in the app and it is on my dashboard with no control. Any ideas? Here’s are couple screenshots for reference. Thanks in advance.

Hello, we recently had our pool opened and discovered that we had a break in one of the lines. We are in the St Louis area so a freeze break could be a possibility. I am posting the break for any input. Thank you.

I recently had the two actuators replaced do to faulting wiring (the pool/spa main drain suction and pool/spa return actuators). When the new actuators were replaced on both the “spillover” feature that usually retuned water from the spa to the pool is now opposite. When I turn on the spillover feature the Jandy actuator actuates the pool/spa return water and return water to from the POOL to the SPA and NOT the main drain suction as it did before from SPA to POOL. The dip switch #3 is turned on as well. Could it be the actuators were placed in the wrong AUX on the iAqualink?

To give you some context of our pool and spa setup. The pool and spa are two bodies of water running on the same filter pump. They are on a schedule and alternate filtration on different times of the day. The main filter pump runs 24hrs per day and also adjusts RPM's throughout the day as well.

I hope all this makes sense.....

Pool equipment setup:

• Jandy Filter Pump - both pool and spa on same pump
• Jandy Heater for both pool and spa
• Jandy SWG for both pool and spa
• Jandy Actuator value on main drain/pool/spa suction
• Jandy Actuator value on pool/spa return
• Cyclone filter/Jandy pump for rain curtain
• Jandy pump for secondary water feature

I was thinking about upgrading a very aged pool pump.
Currently i have a Hayward Super 2 with a 1.65hp motor.

I was looking at the Hayward W3SP3206VSP TriStar Variable-Speed Pool Pump with the 2.7 HP motor.
Its pricey...

Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Something that can work ok with a ProLogic controller.
Think right now my pumps are all wired for 240v.

I really don't care about name brand. I really value references from here more, even if its some offshoot brand i never heard of.

Opened the pool for the summer and first thing I tested was the CYA for SLAM.

As this test is my least favorite, I did it multiple times and it trended towards Barley being able to see it past the 30 mark in the tube. (The solution was just at the top of the tube)

I added 1 gallon of LC to get started, brushed the pool and called it a day. What is the recommendation for the CYA so I can get started for SLAM. (I know i have to be at a minimum of 30)

We're doing a pool remodel and would like to add a baja shelf/sun ledge. I didn't realize there were so many different methods to build the ledge. Our pool is 20x40 and we wanted our ledge to be 9x8 in the shallow end. It would be approximately 3 ft tall. Our contractor said there are 3 options:
1. Use cinder blocks to build the wall (with rebar). Fill the ledge with our old concrete coping (smashed up). Cover with 6 inches of concrete on top.
2. Build wall using concrete mold (with rebar). Fill the ledge with gravel or our old concrete coping. Cover with concrete on top.
3. Build rebar cage. Fill with concrete.

Can you share your thoughts on these options? Thank you!

Hello again,
We just opened our pool in CO for the 4th season and the chemicals seem to be at their worst. The company that opened our pool on Monday said the Ph was really high (not sure if/how they tested it) and put 64 oz of 20' muriatic acid in. They also put in 2 lbs of 54% cal-hypo shock. I was busy and didn't run my own tests that day (two days ago). I ran my test today and holy cow, things are a mess. I'm mostly concerned with the CC level as I tested twice and got 5.5 and 6.0. That would suggest that my break-even chlorination level is 55! That's >9 lbs of shock and that just feels like a bad idea.

My main question is- do I just drain the pool and start over? Below are my full readings as of today. For now, I'm trying to bring down the Ph and then will work on the CC based on the advice I get here. Thx for any advice!

FC- 0.5
CC- 5.5-6.0
Ph- it was purple. It took 7 drops of R015 to get to about 7.4. That suggests 70 oz of acid but I put in 50 to start and will recheck tomorrow morning. I also turned the pump up to 2,300 RPM.
TA- 130 (for some reason my TA always goes up over short periods of time. It was 80 when I closed the pool in October. Hopefully addressing the Ph situation will get me back down around 100 and I'll go from there)
CH- 370
CYA- zero. I plan to address this after the Ph and chlorine concerns. This was 60 when I closed the pool.
Salt- 3,000. I plan to address this after the Ph and chlorine concerns. This was 3,200 when I closed the pool.
Temp- 68
CSI- pool math can't calculate it given the Ph level

I have the Pentair Intellicenter, and noticed this year when opening the pool the Pentair Laminar Deck Jets were turning on even though I didn't have that feature activated. When looking at the IntelliValve the programming looks to have switched on me. How do I adjust it so the when the Laminar feature is "off" in the Intellicenter that the valve is set to run the pool jets? I've been reading a bit, and not finding the answer. I tried changing the set modes on the IntelliValve, but that didn't seem to work. Temporarily I've been just putting it in service and manually moving it, lol.

In Phoenix and our water is very hard which means high CH. I’ve been lazy all winter about keeping logs but CH is nearing 1000 ppm. Phoenix CCR has fill water hardness anywhere from 150-350. Pool was just built, and filled, November 2023 so about a year and a half with the same water.

How high do you let CH go and keep CSI managed vs succumbing to the water exchange? I’d hate to have to do a water exchange every year but the calcium is out of control.

Hi all,


I am wondering if anyone can help me, this corner joint came out completely after filling and I can’t get it to go back in. I’ve had the pool for 3 years now and never had an issue. It dosent seem to be affecting the structure of the pool at all. Can I leave it off??

Hello. Let me introduce myself.

My name is Nick, and a couple years ago I bought a home with a 24’ above ground pool. I’ve learned as I’ve went.

Last year I (regrettably) left some water in the skimmer and it froze and cracked.

I ordered a new skimmer from Amazon, and it’s not tall enough and the holes don’t match. It seems the hole size is similar, but my old one seems to have a large bezel.

My concern isn’t necessarily this, it’s that there are screws behind the bezel thru the aluminum behind the liner holding the skimmer on.

Any one have any idea how to remove those without damaging the liner? Also anyone have a direct replacement?

Hoping maybe someone can give me some inside on this pool. I have been using the bbb method in all my pools over the last 10 years or so maybe longer. But I just can’t get this pool to clean up. I started with a swamp because I didn’t cover it like i should have. I have plastic steps that a prone to algae problems. I thought maybe that was causing my problems so I removed them. I ran out of powder to check my fc so now I’m blind the local pool store does not sell the Taylor refills. It is clear I can see the bottom but I have a green tint to my water. Wondered if it looks like metal to you guys? I hoping the local store can test for metal tomorrow when they open.

Does anyone have any tips for how to calculate the volume of an irregular-shaped pool?

I've included a satellite image of it here. Here are rough measurements:

• 30' length from end-to-end (longest point)
• 10-13.5' across at the narrowest and widest points
• Shallow party pool - only about 3-5' deep
  • 3' deep on either end
  • Gradually slopes to 5' in the center

The previous pool guy estimated the volume between 15-17k gallons, but Pentair's calculator for an oblong pool (closest option) only estimates it at about 9400 gallons. All the curves and gradual slope from 3' to 5' and back to 3' are making this a particularly challenging math problem for me.

Hey All! New to the forums but have been lurking for a few months due to a new to me pool.

Opened it 2 weeks ago and it has been a bit of a nightmare but finally felt like I was getting somewhere when brown spots started appearing everywhere. Think it is Iron but looking to get some help.

Current reading in pictures with high FC due to slam process.


Pool Backstory-
Bought house with a fiberglass pool a few months back. Opened the pool to a swamp that we quickly cleaned, but after testing the pool showed mostly 0s across the board with Taylor liquid kits. Was confused but after multiple times testing found out there was almost no salt, FC, or CYA. Brought all 3 up to level over the last weeks and the water cleared up but now the bottom of the pool is speckled with brown spots. Not sure of what to do as they will not come off with scrubbing and only get worse every day.

Hi, I'm hoping someone could identify this pool light. I tried searching for it, but none seem to look like this. I would assume it was put in around 2012. I'd like to replace it with a multi-color light that will run off of my Pentair Intelliflo 3 pump (011075). Do you have any recommendations for something that's reliable and easy to service? Someone recommended a spa electric to me, but I'm unsure which one i should get. That said, if there's something better I would love to know---I really like wifi control and bells/whistles, if that helps! Any links would be greatly appreciated!!!

​

I was so close to finishing my SLAM. Today my PSI on sand filter was at 14 and it’s usually 10-11, so I decided to backwash. Everything went fine with that but then when I started it up again as I normally do, the PSI shot up to 30 and there was very little suction at the skimmer and weak flow out of returns.

I have only a push pull valve with my sand filter. I did notice that when pulling it up after backwashing, it came up really easy - usually there is some resistance. I’ve turned it off and on several times and same thing keeps happening.

Please help! I’m so afraid I’ll lose all the progress I’ve made in my SLAM.

Hi all,

We are looking to convert from liquid chlorine to SWG this year shortly after opening - this is all new to us but we've heard good things in terms of maintenance and ease of use, in addition to it being not as harsh on hair/skin as liquid chlorine. Though cost is likely the same in the long run, we're excited to not be lugging gallons of chlorine back & forth all the time. Looking for recommendations as to what type of SWG system may be the best for pool...

Pool is 25,000 gallons, so we've been targeting systems rated for around 50k gallons (2x). Our system (below) is pretty old - the pool was originally put in in the 80s, no filter automation (just runs on a timer), and pretty sure our pump is just a single speed. Filter is brand new as of last season and is a cartridge filter, but because some parts of the system are still very old and may need to be replaced in time - we would likely opt to replace with SuperFlo VSP / Easy Touch Automation, so we would prefer an SWG system that will be compatible with that in the future + work for us for now. Ignore the old caretaker system and heater you see pictured, both have been disconnected.

Our pool company who has usually been pretty good has recommended the Solaxx Resilience E Series 60 + (18) 40 lb bags of salt to start. Does anyone have any experience with this one and can confirm if it's a good option? From reading through various threads here we were considering the Circu Pool RJ-45 or RJ-60, possibly the Hayward AquaRite T-15 - but it seems like that's only rated for 40,000 which may be cutting it a little low for the size of our pool, and it didn't have as high of reviews on this site: Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP. Some of the Auto Pilot/Pool Pilot options also seemed to have good reviews, but not sure if they are compatible with our system. Have also seen a few mentions of the Pentair Intellchlor IC40 on here, but don't see it anywhere on that list - is that one we should stay away from? And just to be sure, once we put the system in, it'll just be replacement of the cell every ~3-5 years?

We'll likely have our pool company do the installation just to save ourselves some time.

Appreciate any input or recommendations!!

This is our second above ground pool, first one being last summer. The first one was ruined (12×20 Coleman) because the cable for the cover ripped out one of the fittings after snow and rain pulled on it. Lesson learned.

Now, we have a Seaich 12x20 and I'm not seeing how the pump should be plumbed, as far as intake/outlet. It only has 2 holes for this....one up high and the other very low. Any idea which way to run the hoses? It came with a sand filter, if that helps.

Also, should we really put pavers under the u-shaped legs? We didn't on the previous pool and it really didn't seem to settle into the ground.

We just opened our pool to brown water. Late March, we got a snow storm here in NE which carried a bunch of dust from TX and NM and left behind a sheet of thick brown sediment everywhere after the brown snow melted. I’m assuming much went through our mesh cover. You can see remains on the pool coping we haven’t cleaned yet. Power washing all of our decking was already quite the job. Anyway, water temp is 56 degrees and FC at .5. Cya tested at 35 and PH at 7.4 so I started a slam adding liquid chlorine to slam level. I tested my FC a half hour later to make sure the LC and my measurements were good and then I tested again an hour after that and the level had dropped by 1 so I raised up again to slam level.

My question is, do I just slam like normal and proceed to brush and backwash? Is testing every hour and a half good or overkill. I can’t even see the bottom of the pool which has never happened before so it makes it hard to brush. Will the sand filter eventually filter this out? I also have our Aiper robot going and am going to see what the basket looks like when it’s done with its routine. Appreciate everyone’s time and advice.

I am a new pool owner, as well as a new TF-Pro-Salt test kit owner. I've run through tests a couple of time, and don't have any questions yet on the topic of specific tests. I am trying to get a process down, using the items supplied in the kit, and one I can repeatedly use from beside the pool sitting at a table under an umbrella.

Right now I collect a water sample using a plastic bottle (one given away by Leslie's pool to take in for them to sample) and go to my table. I have a pad I sit down on the table in case I spill something, a couple paper towels, and the test kit. I start the tests, but then after a test I need to empty the test cylinder and rinse it. That means getting up and going about 30 feet to an outdoor spigot/hose, where I can rinse the cylinder in the yard, and presumably contaminate the cylinder slightly with spigot water for the next test. I shake it while returning to my spot, and if big drops dry with the paper towel. Then move on to the next test. It looks like some of you may get extra cylinders and magnetic stir bars to do all your tests in one sitting, and rinse them after all tests are complete. For those without the extra cylinders, what is your process? Is a couple more cylinders the only optimization?

I appreciate your ideas.

I realize this sounds stupid, but theres logic behind my question. Do i really need to have a bigger heater for a bigger pool. The heated water flow is restricted by the return jet regardless of the size of the pool. The heat pump heater can only heat the water to a design temperature as it flows and that flow is restricted by the pump pressure and the return jet. Any comments?

Hello! We are currently at the final stages of having our 16 X 32 gunnite pool installed. This is a salt water pool and not sure of the exact specs of the filtration or pump. It is Haywood so once I have all the info I will update the post. Hopefully the pool will be complete in the next two weeks so I am looking for advice in filling, opening and making sure I don't do something stupid to ruin or damage the plaster or filter system.