I have a Hayward S200. I noticed that the diffuser is loose inside the filter. Seems to be bouncing up and down and almost hitting the clear domed top. Not enough sand? Just loose? Never seen this happen before. If I open open small domed top can I reseat without having to split the top and bottom halves open?

I'm on my second full year of pool ownership and have always done chemical additions myself without any issues. I'm noticing this year that even though my readings are all in line with TRP ranges, my water isn't as clear as it was last year. I'm able to see down to the bottom but when I'm in the water, I'm unable to see across the entire span of the pool, which I was able to last year. I have a variable speed pump that is on continuously, I use skimmer socks which I'm noticing has more silt in it than before which I believe is due to an increase in construction in the area. My question is, has anyone ever experienced this before and if you did, what did you do to resolve it? I have a SWG which is functioning optimally according my FC range and my CC is 0. Ph is between 7.5-7.8. Any advice would be appreciated. I don't know if I'm just being picky or if something is off that I'm missing.

I’ve posted about my small union nut leak in the past, but now my temp fox has failed…which I expected it to at some point…anyway…

Question… I have a small leak at my Jandy pump union. It’s a slow drip like a drip every 5 seconds, no leak if pump is off. I’ve ordered a new union nut but it’s going to take a week.

The leak is caused by a small gap between the pipe and the pump. Either the pvc going into the union wasnt cut straight making the union sit crooked creating the small gap ( 1/8 in on one side) at the pump or maybe the fact the pump wasn’t level?

The pipe leading to the pump was sloping down towards the pump. Is that correct or should it be level?

Am I going about it the right way by cutting out the pvc, rejoining it and putting on a new union?
Retightening the nut worked for a while but no longer.

I also have some flex pvc in my garage…should I use that in case I need a little bend to make a solid connection? It seems like the original pvc is just slightly off.
I hope I made sense….

Thanks!

Just wanted to see if anyone knows about how to make sure using the pump and heater what the safest way , what would cause it to shock you , that's what happened to me today , then reset the power chord and it was fine, just wanted to make sure it doesn't happen again or if it something else I need to look at...

Hello,
If you have read my last thread, the PB, tile company, and mason came through for me and redid some of the tile on my water feature so that it is acceptable now (not nearly as good as I had expected, but acceptable none the less...) Anyway, we moved on to shooting interior and the pebble guys were out here yesterday, and acid wash this AM.. now filling the pool. Only to realize this evening that the pebble guys completely covered my bubbler. I quickly shot a text message to PB once I realized and now waiting to hear back. Can this even be fixed? The bubbler is completely covered as in I can't even see where it used to be. I have a "before photo" that we can use to triangulate the bubbler but would still be hunting in the dark. I'm assuming they would have to chip out the plaster and replaster it.... but now it's being covered with water so I have to wait the 28 days? Then would the new pebble even match the rest of the finish? Seems as though I can't get any breaks with this job.

I thought this was pretty cool. It shows how the chlorine in our 40k gal pool is destroyed by UV during the day and then how I verify that there is nothing consuming the chlorine overnight with what's effectively an overnight free chlorine loss test.

The points on the graph from Sutro tests equate to 1am, 6am, and 7:30pm. So basically overnight, dawn, and dusk.

My liquid feeder broke this week and I have been manually dosing with liquid at 8pm every night (sux).

My CYA is 40ppm and the pool is in direct sunlight for a minimum of 8 hours/day.

Hello, I’ve read every single thread on the white flakes. We have a new plaster swg pool built august 2022.

We had it closed for the winter, with only the spa open, converted to bromine.

In April, we had it professionally opened and the salt cell turned on for the first time.

White flakes started arriving in May. Now they are so plentiful that it’s alarming every time we open the cover. They settle around the bubblers on the sun deck and outside of the returns. The spa is especially bad. There are literally thick piles of it. Today I got into the water with the manual vacuum hose and got it all up. I immediately backwashed and when I turned the pump back on the flakes had shot out the return lines and the sun ledge drains??? undoing 2 hours of work.

We test every other day.
Chlorine is 2-4
PH is 7.4
TA is 100 (Why do most resources say ideal range is 80 - 120, except for TFP?) is 100 high?
Calcium is 260
CYA I can’t figure out because the solution isn’t cloudy and the dot never disappears even when filled to the top.

Please help- I am at my wits end with this. The pool builders were here yesterday fixing stuff and they literally could not figure it out. That didn’t help.

Hi Team,

Not sure if the 100+ heat in Texas caused this but found a leak at the joint between the pump and plumbing. As I tried to adjust the screw part of the joint the whole connection seemed to go undone. I’m trying to figure out if I can fix this or whether I should call a professional. I’m pretty handy, but looks like there’s not room for error. Also not sure how the actual connection works.

I need some serious help! Been dealing with lots of problems. At the end of the day, the sand filter was not working. Water was somewhat cloudy. Replaced the sand filter water is clear but I can’t maintain chlorine in the pool. Read the article about slamming and have been doing that. Water is super clear. Still can’t maintain chlorine. I have a vinyl above ground pool with SWG. CYA is 30-50. I know you recommend 60-90 but I thought I read to have it lower while slamming. What do I need to do! Hold out for a few more days or just covert this pool to a glorified bird bath for 3 seasons and an ice rink in the winter? HELP!!!

I need to add stabilizer to my pool. It is HTH granular stabilizer. The instructions say to slowly pour it in the skimmer but I think I heard someone say to put it in a sock In front of the return. Is one way better than the other or does it really matter? Thanks

I wanted to inquire with everyone here about how to remedy my hot pool water. It’s basically like taking a bath except outside. I have a water fall and my pool runs during the day time to ensure I don’t lose my FC level. I currently lose 3ppm from sunlight and my SWG is set to make up for it. I heard about possibly running it at night, but just like with everything pool related I’d rather ask the experts. Please let me know your thoughts? One thing to mention I don’t normally run the water fall but I can if need be. Thanks for any information.

Sorry for another white flakes thread. First time owner of salt pool. My numbers are below. Getting a lot of white flakes from the salt cell. Just bought this house and the salt cell is a year old. I have acid washed it. My pool guy says the plates are bad and need a new salt cell. However it still makes chlorine just fine and I have not seen any other threads attributing white flakes to a bad cell. I have added about 5 gallons of acid to bring the pH and TA down. Any info is much appreciated!

Water temp 80
Chlorine 5
pH 7.4
TA 150
Calcium 320
Cya 75
Salt 3600

A bit frustrated that some of my interior hot tub lights stopped working. Under warranty, the hot tub store came out and replaced all of them due to a known installation flaw. However, I lost much water as they are replaced from outside the shell. And the tub continues to leak water. The store is coming out right away to correct but my chemical balance is all off as I just filled and balanced 2 weeks ago. Well water is a b*tch to balance and get the water clear. Anyone have issues with Dimension One lights?

So I moved a couple months ago from So. CA, put in a pool there back in 2016. Looking to do it again here.

So things I learned, it’s not cheaper here, lol. First quote was $86k for a relatively basic pool, surface area about 430 sf. No spa, 3-5ft 30x 12. With a 9x7 Baja shelf. much higher than back in 2016 in SoCA.

Questions
1. Q-360 in floor cleaning system and returns vs vac line and regular returns? $3600
2. Pure Blue Ozone system $1500
3. Heat pump vs heater, $7300

Of course limited access Means small equipment and $4400 more.

I was just gonna do pentair equip, with automation, SWG, cartridge filter.

thoughts on the items 1-3. They sell the heat pump for its ab to cool the water to like 85, otherwise it’s gonna be a big spa.

the fire pit and BBQ island and travertine decking are already here.

New pool owner. (2 months)

Started noticing concrete bullnose edges were turning white and chipping off a little. So, I started reading on LSI and water balance. Pool guy and pool store don't seem too concerned (or dont care) about LSI, but I am now because I'm pretty sure my water was corrosive due to low calcium.
Raised calcium to 120 because that's pool manufacturer recommendation. But based on that level, consistently having high PH (7.8-8.0) due to saltwater, and high temp (84°), adding muriatic acid to lower my ph will make my water corrosive. They keep telling me to lower my ph because fiberglass recommendations are 7.2 -7.6, but that just wouldn't work with my water readings.
FC - 2.5
TA - 90
PH - 7.9
CH - 120
Salt - 2400
CYA - 36
My concern is...which is worse? Low calcium or high PH? I can't seem to keep ph low cuz of the saltwater. It goes right back up day after adding acid, and I'm not sure I want to add acid everyday. Plus, it lowers my alkalinity. How do I keep ph stable and within 7.2 - 7.6 range? Seems impossible with the saltwater. Will adding calcium affect the fiberglass? Will high ph affect the fiberglass? So much info and opinions have me overwhelmed.
I just don't want any more damage to my new concrete, which I need to have sealed anyway. I've included a picture.
Any help from a fiberglass saltwater pool owner would help. Thank you.

I have a 3 year old pool and I’ve got a leak that as of today it’s below the skimmers. If it’s a pipe crack is there a liner that can be used to save the effort of digging up the piping.

So, I’ve bought a house with a pool. Things I know…. It is inground, has a liner that needs replaced, and it is oval. It is also a biology experiment! I am going to try to pump out the water because at present I don’t even know how deep it is. Where is the most economical place to order a liner with quick turnaround? Once I replace the liner, what’s next? Idk anything about my mechanics or if it’s functioning. I will cross that bridge when I come to it. I need to know EVERYTHING! Thanks!

Hello all. I just joined the forum and have some questions. I have not yet purchased a test kit so I can only provide what my latest pool store results were.
Adjusted Alkalinity: 56.2
PH: 7.5
FC: 2
Calcium Hardness: 186
CYA: 117
Phosphate: 500

I've already adjusted the PH and alkalinity using baking soda and muriatic acid. I know I'll need to drain some water and replace to get rid of the CYA which will probably just throw off the PH that I just fixed.

Up until now I've been using Trichlor tabs and shocking with Clorox extra blue which has sodium dichloro something or other. No wonder my CYA is climbing every week.

I want to start using liquid chlorine but I'm not sure how much it will take. Once I get CYA down, and chlorine levels in check, how much liquid chlorine should I expect to have to use every day to maintain levels in a 22,600 gallon pool?

Will it take a gallon every day? 1/2 a gallon?

Just trying to figure out if I'll really be saving that much switching to this method.

What really stinks is that I just bought a 40lb bucket of Trichlor tabs at sam's club for 199.98 thinking I was getting a good deal and now I don't think I want to use it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hello, I am a relatively new pool owner, approx a year. My pool, which is a little over a year old developed brownish staining over the last 2 months. It was fine prior to that. No idea what it is, tried lots of different methods to remove it, chlorine granules on the spot, vitamin C, some removers from Amazon and nothing seems to work. I did have success using a pumice pool stone testing on a small spot, but would be too much to do the entire pool, couldnt do underwater and not very effective. I tried the heavy scour sponges and nothing. I saw in another thread that someone had success with Jack's magic which I haven't tried yet. This would also require me to put a bypass on my heater if it works. Just trying to get an idea of what this is and how to treat it. I saw mention in another thread that could be dirt encased in calcium. It's just weird that this showed up all of a sudden and my suction cleaner didn't pick it up when it started. My pool guy wants to acid wash which I said should not be needed for a pool that is one year old Attached some pics and any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I keep finding sand next to my return jet. I use a sand filter, am I crazy to think something is wrong with it? What should I do and what should I check first?

The screw at the bottom of my filter basket is leaking. The pool is new I just had It installed last year. It's an 18ft round

Hello everyone! We just bought a house with inground 22k gallon pool and planning to install new pump. The filter is Hayward s200. If you look at pics you can see the plumbing for the valve is in way of cover of circupool pump and I will need to reconfigure the plumbing. Just not sure how I should do this. Open to all suggestions!!
Thanks

Hi all, I recently used about a quart of Jack’s Magic Power Blue Scale Off to remove scale from my pool tiles (it worked well.)

Since then, I’ve noticed either a massive increase in FC demand or it’s affecting the tests. I’ve seen that other Jack’s Magic products can cause issues with FC testing, but wasn’t aware if this specific product would affect FC results.

Does anyone have any experience?

My current levels:
FC-8
CC-0
PH-7.6
TA-80
CH-400
CYA-70
Salt—3400

Thanks!

I purchased a house with a pool in need of rehab. The liner has been replaced, new pump, refreshed sand filter, and pressure test with no leaks (after 10 years of no use). I have concern that the coping is going to be an issue. Can I fill the gap between this coping and the concrete deck? If that will help, what should I fill it with? Obviously, with a new liner I’d rather not replace the deck and coping. Would have been nice if the company that installed it would have been more forthcoming about future concerns. The gaps between are no greater than an inch. Thanks!

Just set up an intex 12x24x52 swg pool. It is almost full. Have set up sand filter and swg. Don’t know what to do next…. We just got a tf-pro salt test kit and aren’t sure how to use it but tested the TA and PH.
TA - 200
PH - 7.2
We are filling with well water, so water may be hard.
Next step????

I am redoing my spa plumping. Previous installation the air pipes where so high up, they had to make 2" step around the spa to hide the air piping. Since I am remodeling, I am thinking of putting air pipes below water pipes.

Instructions says the air connections (spigot) should be facing up. I think this is for sucking air with venturi effect. But I do have an air blower. In that case, does it really matter if air pipe (spigot) is set downwards?

I am going to use similar tee body assembly as now, the one in picture below.

I have six of these installed 8 years ago. I don't know if just a sloppy install, but two of the six, the PVC pipe connection under the cup has fallen off. Bad Glue, Settling, who knows. They used the white flexible PVC, I do remember that. I have a concrete deck so they cemented around the cups. Best I can tell from the install diagram, the cups are tapered, small at the top, to larger at the bottom (dirt level under concrete). How much concrete do I have to destroy to get the cups out in order to reattach the pipe underneath? I thought about a dremel with a stone grind tool trying to carefully enlarge the hole (the concrete is slightly poured over the lip at the top of the cup), but I'm afraid I'm going to need a much bigger hole to get the cup out past the taper. A local leak detection company quoted me $2800 to fix it. I can live with no jets for that amount of $$$. Maybe contact a concrete company directly to cut them out for me? Options?

Hello, I try to add chlorine in the evening, when the pool is not in direct sunlight.

I am wondering whether this practice should also be followed for muriatic acid and/or CYA?

Thank you.

Question, what is the purpose of tenting a pool during construction, and at what stages of construction is it usually necessary?