Hi there. I have a Hayward AquaRite Goldline SWG . It is 11 yrs old. My problem is no LED lights show up in the display. I have just replaced the "display board", and replaced a new T-cell 15 and still have no LED lights which means that my SWG is not functioning. I am using chlorine tabs for now.
My question is why? Would a faulty flow switch cause the problem of no LED lights or do I need a new Main PCB? I have replaced the main PCB board once after 5 yrs. I live in MA and open my pool end of April thru mid Sept. Any thoughts, suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm thinking I may need a new PCB board. Thank you so much!

Hello,

I am trying to decide between a Stenner pump with an ECON-T (timer pump) for dispensing a predetermined amount of liquid chlorine versus a system like the automated Pentair IntelChem system.

My concerns with the Pentair IntelChem are that I have read many negative comments about it; but they appear to be related to its use with salt water systems. There seems to be problems with the probes, accuracy and also complicated to set up and manage.

We only have to add muriatic acid about 4 to 6 times a season so we do not feel a strong need to have an automated system for dispensing muriatic acid. The liquid chlorine has to be added daily.

We were advised not to go to a SWG system due to the age of our pool. It was built in 1975. It was suggested that the newer pools are built with materials to withstand the corrosive elements of the salt. I was advised that this was the case even though we have a vinyl lined pool. This company indicated that they carefully evaluate pools prior to installing SWG systems as they have run into complications using them with old pools that were not designed for use with SWG systems. They highly recommended sticking with liquid chlorine and consider an automated dispensing system. They sell both systems so not sure they have a vested interest one way or the other.

Would love to learn more from those with experience in using an automated system for dispensing liquid chlorine; (and, possibly for dispensing muriatic acid) We are looking for the simplest and most reliable options.

I am Looking for a reliable programmable 24v Wi-Fi enabled thermostat with external probe control for Navien combi boiler for boiler zone control. Zone is used with a stainless Bowman heat exchanger for a cedar hot tub and I want the zone to maintain hot tub temp for 3 different events - away (50-60 deg), standby (80 deg) and active (102 deg). Hot tub side is a black and decker VS pump controlled by 5v relays.

This one looks promising but isn’t readily available in US.


Any other suggestions??

I am also still trying to work out coordination between the VS pump side controlsrelays and the Navien control board Open to ideas if anybody has tackled this. Though I don’t mind having to control each independently and it seems no harm if one side is on without the other



Thanks in advance.

My CYA was registered 0 on my Taylor test. I was adding 26oz to being CYA to 30ppm with a white sock. I had it attached via a clip hanger over the return. Almost half of it had dissolved when I went to check it. Both the hanger and the sock are somewhere in the pool. Will it still disperse? I am currently in a SLAM (NWI algae problems) and can see parts of the bottom but others are cloudy. I scrubbed and swept the pool after, to no avail, as I could not find it.

Hello all! I'm not new to the forum, as I used it in the past with a previous home that had a problem pool.
We just purchased a Sundance Cameo 880 series tub with a 370 gal capacity. It's got one of those clear ray uv bulbs also. I do not plan to use the pool store to rely on advice or chemical products, but they included a variety of items to begin with...
Sodium Dichlor-s-Triazinetrione dihydrate with 55.5% available chlorine.
Leisuretime Renew, potassium peroxymonosulfate 32%, 3.26% active oxygen.
Alkalinity plus, sodium hydrogen carbonate.
A floater called nature's pure, which I guess is some mineral system/ clarifier.
pH down, sodium bisulfate.
And some test strips which only check pH and Alkalinity.

So, it turns out I have a leak on one of the lower jets in which I will have to drain the tub so they can turn it on its side to fix this week. So, since i already get to start over, in reading about hottub advice here, looks like I should buy some of that Ahhsome and flush the tub, correct? After using it, do I drain it again? I want to buy a good water tester. Which one?
They tested my current water before I added anything...
FC .2 ppm, TC .35 ppm, combined. 14 ppm, pH 7.9, alkalinity 44 ppm, adjusted alkalinity? 42ppm, calcium hardness 8 ppm, cyanuric acid 5ppm, 0 iron and 0 copper.
We do have a house water softener. I'd imagine the water would be nearly the same after refill.
Probably more info than anyone might be asking, but any advice on how to get a good start? Thanks!

Hello everyone! New member here! My wife and I just separated and I bought my own place with a pool. Fun times! Unfortunately I know nothing about pools…but I love to do things myself and this seems like a great resource! I look forward to connecting with folks and having some fun with this thing!

A little about my setup ~11,000 Gallons. There is a bunch of equipment that I am guessing is the following:

Chlorine generator (SWG)
DE filter
Pump
Heater

I added one of the pool for good measure! It’s about 12x30 ranges from 1 to 6.5 feet deep. I’m on the coast in SC. I ordered the test kit recommended here late last week, and will test and post some levels soon.

Best,
DD

I have been struggling most of the year. I think I finally have things figured out, but I still need to powerfloc and backwash. I went over to the filter to check on if it needed to be backwashed. I looked at the SWG and noticed I didn't see a cloud coming off of the plates like I normally do.

I went over to the SWG to power it on and off so it would change the polarity when I noticed the attached.

The unit is fine, but I am guessing that somehow lightning did this? Or a power surge of some sort? The connector out of the unit is fried, and the plug itself. I am assuming it is a total loss. Had it for 7 years.

So, what do people recommend? It looks like they don't make this anymore, but this is the "replacement".

What do you all recommend? Looking for ease of use/installation, and preferably good recommendations that won't break the bank.

For those that have purchase on Amazon. Have you just returned to Amazon with on 30 days? I've contacted aiper with some concerns and they asked me to return to them and sent me a shipping label. I'm not sure why.
I can just return to Amazon and get an instant refund.

I am in my first year of running this pool and spa (finished very late last fall) and still trying to get the hang of it. I am using the Taylor K-2006C test kit.

I have done pretty well keeping the water clear with liquid chlorine every few days.

What I'm noticing is that my PH creeps up every test despite adding Muratic. Almost always above 8.0 (highest test result) on each weekly test. I have done the Acid Demand test and get something like 3-4 drops in the pool to lower to 7.6. The number of drops for the spa is typically more like 12 or more. My question is why this might be and what the values are I am shooting for? I have typically used the values on the Pool Math Calculator, but not sure if those targets vary for hydrazzo.

Today's results
Pool:
Ph 8.0+ (acid demand = 4 drops)
TA = 180
CH = 300
FC = 0.2 (before I added a gallon of chlorine)

Spa:
Ph = 8.0+ (acid demand 12 drops)
TA = 370
CH = 325
FC = 0.2 (before adding 50 oz chlorine)

Any recommendations appreciated!

PS: This is a perimeter overflow pool, which we run some times but not others. Spa is mostly run without the aerated jets.

Hi,

Been reading these forums religiously for the past week and went to register and found out I did in 2016 somehow, that was weird.

In any case I'm a newbie and I got my pool late last year and never had much issue, we only used it a couple of months before I closed it, I have Pentair pump and a IC20 SWCG

This year I've been struggling to have much of any chlorine and have had to shock it regularly. So I cleaned the filter, got some more chlorine, pool is clear for about 48 hours and algae comes back and is cloudy. Then I took apart the SWCG to clean with acid but there was absolutely nothing in there. Last year the guy who installed my pool said "always keep it at the 1st program" which was running at 2350RPM / 24-7. My research here makes me think that should be plenty to keep the flow light green. After awhile I noticed the flow switch was red (I have no idea how long it was red to be honest). Sure enough I bump it up to 2400RPM and the flow switch turns green, this lasted a few hours and now it's red again. Bump it up to 2500 and it turns green again. There is no way I should have to run it that high for the SWCG to be working, would you agree? Thanks for any help

Hello everyone,

New here, but not new to pools. I worked at a Leslies some time ago for a couple years and had a manager who actually understood water, so I had a good teacher. I purchased my first home here in Arizona last year, and it has a large pool with a diving board. Specs are down below. All equipment, including a pool resurface and new water, was installed in 2021 by the previous owners. At least that's what they told me (date on the filter is 2021).

I was confident I could handle it myself and spend the 30 minutes/week it required, especially since there's a Leslies Pro 1/2 mile away. Last summer was great, water got cloudy once or twice but nothing I couldn't handle. I was only adding a couple bags of shock and some acid every week (following weekly testing), and it saw maybe once a week use with a few parties over the course of the season. Summer came to a close and I backed off on the chems as it cooled down. I started a new job at the end of last year and admittedly got too busy to even think about the pool. So, when this summer came around, my lack of winter attention came back to haunt me via an extreme algae problem. Like, I've never seen an algae issue that bad.

With a relatively large pool at 30k gallons, it was quite a lengthy and expensive war to fight. Upwards of 30 pounds of cal hypo, a couple bottles of copper algaecide, vigorous brushing and vacuuming, needed some conditioner as well. Eventually the water turned back to blue, but was extremely cloudy. As in, maybe 1 foot visibility cloudy. I assumed it was remains of calcium due to all the shock I added and would clear up after some time running the pump at 2800rpm 24/7. Well, it didn't. I decided that it would be better to just hire a highly rated (on yelp) pool service to clear it up for me and maintain from there as I clearly don't have the attention to give it. After a month of them coming by, zero change in the clarity. I asked them about it and we decided to do a flocc treatment. I added the bottle and pump sat off for 4 days. I could very nearly see the bottom drain, as well as the caked on Crud at the bottom. Then after the pool guy came and vac'd it up, I went to about 2-3 feet visibility. Assuming during the vac process a lot of it got pushed back up into the water.

I've also noticed a lack of chlorine retention. They added 4 gal of liquid chlorine and 4lbs of trichlor yesterday morning, and this morning I'm only at 1ppm TAC. No green that I can tell. My most recent Leslies test (6/4) has my CYA at 71ppm, TDS at 2100ppm, and hardness at 344ppm. TDS maybe a bit high but nothing outrageous in my opinion. Pump currently runs for 4 hours at 2800rpm, 6 hours at 2200rpm, and 6 hours at 1300rpm.

After getting a little angry with the pool service because I told them mid last week that I have a party this weekend and it needed to be cleared up, they had the GM come out (the one who came yesterday) and added some stuff. Still no change this morning, so I emailed with some pics. They told me that my filter is "extremely undersized" and that switching to a cartridge filter would solve my problems. I think I need another flocc treatment since the first one helped a good amount, but they said that is not the right course of action.

My reason for posting here is, what do you guys think? Is my filter undersized? Do I need to swap out some water? Should I just do another flocc treatment (or two) and all will be well? This thing has been stressing me out for months, and its getting hot here in the desert, so I just want to use my pool without having to spend another $500+ on fixes or $1000+ on a new filter. I think I've provided all relevant information, but if I've forgotten something please let me know.

Thanks in advance and happy 4th weekend!

Hi all!

A friend noticed his pool (above ground, sand filter) water turning green, so he put a bunch of algaecide, shock, and a couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate (i told him to stop copper).

Now, the water is still green and is foaming. He is going to try shocking daily and see if this helps over the next few days (PH and chlorine levels are good), but i can't help but wonder if something else is going on (metals??).

Notice the brown scum on the waterline/stairs?

Any ideas appreciated!

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Not sure what I can use to fill in these gaps. I have pool epoxy at homes, but I wasn’t sure if that is the right thing to use. Thanks in advance.

The home I moved into in 2014 had an inground pool in need of A LOT of TLC. After learning the water chemistry basics thanks to this forum, I then had to take on the failing tile and coping from years of neglect. In June 2019 we had the tile and coping replaced with great results. Fast forward 4 years and I'm starting to notice a few small areas where the mastic is possibly separating from the coping. This raises a few questions:
1. Is there a typical timeline for mastic replacement? I'm in Northern VA, I assume climate is a major factor.
2. Do 2 or 3 small gaps like in the 1st picture necessitate replacement, or is this fine/normal and still has life left?
3. Is there a preferred way to repair the dent in the grout in the 2nd picture? If I recall, my dog scratched at it when it was fresh.

It was a tiny pinch of powder, I dont actually know how much it was but it was small. Is there anything that is the same size that is easy to obtain? What if I put in too much, will that mess up the test? Since I cant accurately measure it now just have to hope for the best and put some in.

Not sure how I lost it, have had it for over 5 years and suddenly it has disappeared.

I think it is a 2g spoon? I saw something about that on the Taylor website but not sure if it's the same spoon.

We finally got a pool up a couple weeks ago, and are slowly trying to figure everything out. We jumped the gun and started putting water in, but then got delayed a couple times, and it ended up sitting for a couple weeks before we got it full and the pump running. We are starting with tap water, so the numbers I've tested are....

PH 7.6
Alkalinity 270 (Is that even possible??? Seems so high, but it took A LOT of drops to change color!)
No chlorine and no CYA

I thought I caught a glimpse of *maybe* some algae on the bottom (tiny bit), and the walls were slippery. I did add 30 oz of bleach, and that helped with the slimy walls, but I just went and got some CYA and will start adding that today.

In the meantime, my kids have been playing in the water, and we have noticed several backswimmers and a couple boatman. Barf. Can anyone hold my hand and tell me what I need to do to clear those out? We've been skimming them and smooshing them (man, those are some WEIRD bugs that jump off the skimmer!! So weird!!). Do I need to treat for algae? Or SLAM? Or do I just keep working on my CYA/Chlorine levels and that will naturally take care of the potential algae issue? I don't want to overdue the chemicals and create a whole new mess.....

I have a jandy pool pump that seem to have condensation. I check the lid for any cracks but didn't see any and I also lube the o ring. The pic I uploaded is when the pool pump is off. This pool pump is for my waterfall. The main pool pump doesn't have this issue. Is there an issue with my pool lid?

Hello! I completed my conversion from Baquacil to chlorine and I’m very happy about it. My pool looks great and feels great. I did run into a small issue when my just-over-one-year-old Hayward pump started leaking at the shaft. I don’t know if that had anything to do with the conversion but regardless, it’s fine now. I found out pretty quickly that getting someone to replace the seals was going to be difficult and expensive so I bought a repair kit and did it myself! (proud of me). No more leaking.
Now here’s my question:
I’ve been checking the FC every evening when the sun is low and it’s been zero after a day of sun. My CYA is 40. So I’ve been adding chlorine every evening and in the morning sometimes it has dropped a bit, so I add the recommended amount to bring it up.
Will I need to check FC daily and add chlorine every day? Or is something else going on?
I did change out my filter after passing the overnight test twice and the CC has always been <.5
I also plan to add borates but wanted to get the conversion completed before doing anything else.
TIA.

We have a Hayward Goldline Aquarite SWG that was originally installed in 2006. We've only owned the pool since 2019. New salt cell in 2021 and was just cleaned a few weeks ago, but had barely any buildup. I don't think it is working properly, but I'm not sure if there is something I can reset or try on our end before deciding if it requires a professional. We have an older revision (1.40) so it won't display the cell size (T15). I thought the 3rd one on the list was supposed to be volts, but the reading looks more like what the amps would be. The other one is just reading zero, so maybe the 2.3 is volts and our situation is worse than we thought? Average salinity reads 3200, but instant always reads 0, even after trying to recalibrate. The clicking sound it says I should hear does not happen. And just today, the average salinity reading is now showing as 0. I set it to 100% to see if it would make a difference on the salt readings.

SWG Readings (from Diagnostics panel):
3200
92
2.3
0.00
100%
0
al-0
r 1.40

Latest Taylor K-2006 Testing:
FC 3.4
CC 0
pH 7.6
TA 80
CH 330
CYA 60
Salt 2900

Started to have some cloudy and green water…my pool store was recommending stuff that wasn’t correcting the problem.

Used HTH Green to Blue, looked clear this morning but like an idiot…I started my pool filter while using my robot vacuum. All the stuff at the bottom is now all over. Do I have to start the process over? Will it settle back down after turning off the pump?

It’s going to be 85 today and sunny the family wants to use the pool.

Hello everybody. I heard a lot of great things about this forum so here I am ! over the years I helped friends and family to manage their pools.
I am not an expert but I do understand a lot on the importance of balancing chemicals. I tend to use a simplistic approach. Less products trow in the pool the better. I had friends that had disasters on their hand because they were buying various products and expected miracles from them. I just help another friend. They said they haven't see the pool so perfect and nice to swim in since they build it 19 years ago!. Good filtration, fresh water, correct level of salt, balanced PH and chlorine go a long way. But I am here because from time to time i do have some questions. Which I will post after I research the topic of using stabilizer in a pool with chloring generator. Thank you all. Jimmy.

We are investigating on doing a DIY inground pool kit from Royal Swimming Pools. We have a small yard & their custom kits seem to be the best option that won't cost us 120K Quote is for a 9'x30'x18' small L with a liner over steps entry with 6' tanning ledge. Anything you'd suggest changing or upgrading on the quote?

9' x 35' x 18' L-Shape Swimming Pool Kit with 42" Steel Walls
pool_depth: Single Depth Deep 4'6"
entry_step_location: end_of_L_full
pool_turn: right
Corner Radius: 6-inch
Cardinal 14 Gauge ZAM Coated Steel Panels
42" Foam Corner Inserts for 6" Radius Pools
Adjustable A-Frame Brace - 14 Gauge 42" Steel HPSFOB & HPSSTAKE
Flat Face Bullnose Coping
42" High x 10' Wide x 6" Radius Full Width Steel Step with 6' Sunledge
Royal's Choice 4 Bend Handrail w/Escutcheons
Royal's Choice 3 Step Ladder with White Hip Tread 20" w/Escutcheons
Hayward AquaRite 100 Expert Line Salt Chlorinator w/30k Gallon Salt Cell
Hayward MaxFlo XL 1.0HP Pool Pump (Single Speed) SP2307X10
Hayward ProSeries Top Mount Sand Filter, 24 inch, 1.5 inch top mount
1 Wide Mouth Single Skimmer System for Steel Wall Pools
2 main drains
CMP Compact Pool Defender Anode and Water Bond
Tara Silver Falls 20 mil vinyl liner

Appreciate any feedback!

We have the Jandy nicheless pool lights, I believe the part number is jluc10-100. I rotate the plastic cover, the light comes out about 3", I cannot figure out how to remove it. I don't want to pull too had b/c I don't know if there is a seal back there. Can anyone point me to directions on how to remove and then replace this light / bulb?

Thanks,
Kevin

I was a month or two late cleaning the hot tub as I've been a bit overwhelmed lately. Anyway, I finally set about cleaning the tub today and found this incredibly weird grey beige stuff all up in the filter. It is odorless and has the look and consistency of papier-mâché (see photo)

I scraped about a half cup of this stuff out of the folds of the filter. I shudder to think how much might be in the pipes. Anyway, what the heck is it? Has anyone seen this before?

Hi all!

I had to fully drain my pool before for very high cyanuric acid. Found out that previous owner was using 3inch tablets of trichlor a little bit too much. Ever since finding out about it, I did some research. took away those automatic dispensers. And decided to just manually treat (and clean) my pool.

I had opt to use unstabilized chlorine granules (calcium hypochlorite) for maintaining my pool free chlorine levels. I just use 1 or 2 trichlor 3inch tablets on the floating dispensers since it is an outdoor inground poo. So far, I have not seen any algae formation ever since I starting this. Pool most of the time is sparkling clean and blue! Of course I also run the pump on schedule together with my trusty robo pool vacuum.

Or am I making a big mistake here? I'm just wondering if I am making an invisible chemical reaction than can cause skin irritation.

Your wisdom are all appreciated!

Voltage running about 8 to 9 volts obviously getting an error 120, 121 is my issue the large transfomer?

Looks like a KEA114UL-75V6000-PT

If so is this a captive part or are there any generic replacements?

I have a pool at a house where I don't live. We moved away, and I get by the old house about every other week. I've had the pool for several years, and I've never been particularly good at getting it clear in the spring. This year, I wasn't living there in the spring, so my pool treatment suffered. And it got GREEN. I also discovered that there's a thick layer of leaves on the bottom. The pump will run and circulate the water. I've used shock twice, and it did basically nothing. I'm guessing the leaves are overpowering the chlorine, so I decided to try to clean out the leaves before trying again. I've been using my rake, and sweeping it across the bottom (which I can't see). Sometimes, I get nothing, sometimes, I get a huge load of leaves. How do I get this cleaned up? I searched here and Youtube, and found nothing helpful.

Has anyone drilled some larger holes in their ladder to put bleach into? My ladder always seems to have gross green water in it when I take it every month to clean and brush. It's pretty much like this ladder, your typical A-Frame. It has some tiny holes on the steps to hold water so the ladder sinks, but I wanted to make them bigger to add more chlorine to them. Has anyone done that with success?

Just trying to gauge if the installers did a poor job or this is within normal range. I didn’t experience this much noise on my first pool.

Here are some photos.

We had a friend re-gelcoat our VERY old fiberglass pool. He does boat fiberglass for a living, so he does know what he is doing. Finished the pool in early May. We waited over a week before filling. Gelcoat was cured, not tacky at all. Final coat was with wax added. Started having water tested at pool store and followed all their instructions. Needed a lot of calcium as we have soft water, but otherwise nothing too crazy. After about two weeks we noticed that the water was cloudy after we went swimming. Also noticed a white residue (almost like paint) would be on the walls when we wiped it. I added a flocculant and the next day it looked like it had snowed in the bottom of the pool. Vacuumed it to waste and hoped that would be the end of it. It wasn't. We have repeatedly had the water tested and the chemistry is as it should be. Can gelcoat be bad from the start? I can't find ANY info about something like this. Many say calcium, but it does not seem to be that. The water is perfectly clear if you let it settle. I am hoping we do not have to drain and redo again! Any input would be appreciated!