Hi,
I have a Circupool RJ45+, which recommends 3000-4000 ppm of salt. Currently I'm running it right about 3000.
My question is would increasing the pool's salt level to say 3500 have any improvement in the amount of FC produced? I'm not saying I'm unhappy with the cell, just curious is all.

Thanks.

Ok, I *do* understand that secondaries aren't recommended. I'm going to lay out what's happening and hope the experts here can help me clear up my knowledge, with the understanding that our situation may be coming from a different angle than others.
I understand there are limitations to ozone, and if minerals work we don't care if they stain. We have a specific cancer-related use case I'm trying to get a feel for. Many thanks in advance!

Background
So, they found ovarian cancer in my wife when they did a C-section. She's doing great, and our little girl is 2 1/2 years old now. However, my wife and her family have a genetic pre-disposition towards cancer and we can't test my daughter until she's 16 (really annoying rule).

Our understanding is that chlorine disinfection byproducts are associated with a ton of issues, including higher incidence of cancer. I do realize there are many ways to reduce these byproducts, and our pool is outdoors which already mitigates some. We also do recognize that a non-sanitary pool is its own (and immediate) problem.

Goal
Reduce DBPs as much as possible, likely through reduction in chlorine use.

Pool
We have a ~32/16 in ground pool in coastal Carolina. It has a SWG, which has been great.
We also have a skimmer and bottom filter, and 3 returns.

Me
I had a regular salt pool growing up, with DE filter. I'm not a pool professional but I'm at least not new.
I've also been testing for microbes (mostly in the Chesapeake bay region) since 8th grade and my dad's a microbiologist so I can always get him to help test if needed.

Additional Discussion
I know there can be other issues with metals in pools, but from the standpoint of killing algae, bacteria, protozoa, and parasites, silver seems to be pretty effective and does have a residual, though time to kill varies of course from chlorine.

This will probably sound nuts here, but I started by testing PoolRx (silver/copper) drop-ins. I was amazed at the water clarity change just from that, with chlorine turned to zero. I did not do biological testing at this point.

With the understanding that we are trying to reduce exposure to cancer-causing chemicals of any kind, does that shift the narrative of whether ions/ozone/SWG makes sense or works?

For instance, if the filter is on 24/7, it is continuously going through an ozone or AOP chamber (just to break down compounds in the water), the pool has silver/zinc/copper ions, and we crank the SWG higher if we have any higher numbers of people there, what are the thoughts for this use case?

Hi!

We have a new pool that is around 30,000 gallons. It was just filled in October and I’ve been letting the company that built it manage it thus far, thinking that was best as we were just starting out.

Today, the pool guy was here and noted the chlorine feeder for tabs was empty and chlorine level was zero. The water was clear and we do have an AOP system as well. He told me he was going to shock it, which seemed ok to do since they had let the chlorine feeder go empty.

In the afternoon that same day I noticed the water was clear but had a green tint. So I checked the log and saw that he added 6 pounds of “shock.” (I called later to see what this was and it was dichlor). I checked the chlorine level with the Taylor FAS-DPD kit and found it to be around 40ppm!

I’m concerned about damage to the equipment (gaskets, etc), plaster, natural stone on water feature, and the cover. Is there damage that could occur that wouldn’t be obvious until later on?

I called the company and they are coming out tomorrow. I asked if they would do a partial drain and refill, but he said they would probably use sodium thiosulfate… but it seems like it would take a lot to bring this level of FC down! I’ve read that this can be bad for surrounding grass… are there other issues with this?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated- thank you!

Ok so ive had a horrible time with pool chemicals since going to the local shop for testing. My old kit did cl and pH so I thought the pool store would be better, hundreds of dollars later and some chalking on the pool, here I am with an awesome TF pro salt test kit. The people at the store are great but we disagree on a few things, specifically Hardness.
I've attached a Pic of the old parameters that the store set and the numbers of last test. This was done april 7th.
These are my current test numbers after a 1/2 inch of rain last night, April 11th
FC-2
CC-0.5
CYA-60
TA-60
PH- 7.7ish Lol
Calcium Hardness -125 (my pool shell MF sun pool says 350, store says it ruins pool and should be lower) thinking this is where my white haze came from a i blindly followed advice. My phosphates sat at 4,000 all winter while I scrubbed (scale tec) because they thought I had scaling from calcium build up but after reading and reading I'm wondering if it's the opposite and I had calcium leaving from the gel coat.
My is SALT-3200
I see the suggested numbers in the kit but I want to see what the community suggests. My sun pool MF says the following for my shell.
Chlorine 1.0ppm
P.h. 7.4 to 7.6
Alk 80 to 100 ppm
Calcium Hardness 350 ppm
Cya 60 ppm
Thanks in advance, hopefully this gets me back in line. This test kit was worth EVERY penny. Hardest thing was deciding what is an obscure black dot. Lol and the yellow on the block is useless to me, the purple isn't that bad. Wish they had a drop test like the rest, you can't mess that up.

Yep, I'm going to get sucked into getting a hot tub on top of the inground pool. I have wanted a hot tub for a while as the one I've used in the gym before really helped therapeutically for my muscles after run and back.
I would really like one with powerful Jets. Do you know what I need to look for that would indicate it has powerful Jets. Any recommendations on brands would be great. Don't need all the bells and whistles

Happy pool season!

I know better than this but… my cya refill didn’t come before pool opening. I have lots of green algae. I’m ashamed (?) to admit I’ve never actually had algae before. Brown swamp, sure, but never actually seen the algae. This was my first season opening with a mesh safety cover. Anyway. My cya reagents are due to arrive today but until then… I want to start slamming. Can I just assume my cya is 0? It was 40-60 at closing (I can’t remember and I didn’t log it in pool math). I’m guessing the only harm it will do is me wasting bleach because I’m not adding enough to reach slam level in the even that I actually do have remaining cya. Should I just hold off? I added enough 10% to raise to 10ppm 20 minutes ago… retest showed .5FC and 2CC.

TIA! This place is awesome.

Recently bought house with a pool. I know the layout of my plumbing for the most part, but I’m curious what that pipe with the black nub coming out is. Also the little capped stub out on the return side of the pool.

Hello everyone,

Purchased a home with older automation equipment. I have an Intellitouch panel inside and pretty sure an i5 outside (and a spa controller if that matters). Looks like firmware version 1.090 inside (UIC) and 1.160 outside (UOC).

I have an Intelliflow VSF pump. It is set up for External Control.

I have figured out how to change the programming for SPA (set up as egg timer for 3 hours), POOL (day/time) and HIGH SPEED (day/time, I'm assuming this is a custom set button) on the Intellitouch.

When I press the POOL button (or when its the correct time to run the POOL function) the Intelliflow pump will say "Prog 1" and will run at whatever speed I have set for Prog 1 in the setup on the pump. When I press the HIGH SPEED button (or the correct time for that function) the Intelliflow will say "Prog 2" and run at the (higher) speed I have set for Prog 2.

When I look at the programming on the Intellitouch, Menu-Setup-Equipment-Intelliflo- I have a screen of Intelliflo 4 pumps to select, but it appears there is nothing set up for any of the pumps.

While I can adjust the scheduled days/time on the Intellitouch, and the pump speeds (at least for Prog 1 and 2 under External Control) on the Intelliflow, how does the pump know to run Prog 1 for POOL and Prog 2 for HIGH SPEED?

I'm not looking to borrow trouble, since right now everything works, but the engineer in me wants to know! The previous owners left all the manuals but not sure how to decode any of the programing.

Welcome any thoughts or where I should look for this logic.

Thanks!

We have an older gunite pool that was probably built in the 70’s. We are getting the old plaster chipped out and new plaster/tile added. The skimmer needs to be replaced as well. It is the only skimmer and is a Hayward SP-1096, which seems really small. There are two returns and no main drain. All the plumbing is 1 1/2”. The decking has been pulled up as well and is being replaced with new pavers. The filtration seemed fine the couple of years we used the pool since we bought the house. My questions are: should I just get the same model skimmer or get a bigger one but that would mean they would have to enlarge the opening? Should I also pay the extra expense and upgrade all the plumbing to 2” or just the suction line from the skimmer or would it be fine to keep everything 1 1/2”? We have someone doing the replastering but wanted to get y’all’s opinions before we meet with them next week to discuss everything. Thanks!!

Hey everyone, new guy on TF pools. I've read plenty of forums so thought I would join. I have a small Sun pools sanibel 11x23 fiberglass pool. The install was a nightmare and the owner is in the wind. I started with his advice on chemicals and eventually went to the local store for better readings. I'm at my last straw so I'm going to go back to basics and I'm going to start trying to get this in order.
As of this point I have a lovley white haze and some shell shifting from ground settling and what I believe to be lack of proper back fill, no one to ask but as far as I'm aware no rock nor sand was delivered or moved around the property so unless they got it done all same day it's sitting in clay soil. The deep end has a slight bulge In the smaller side wall and the skimmer basket seems to have shifted downward almost as if the wall was pulling away from it.
My only hope at is the shell and plumbing are strong and can hold up to and weight load and ground movement. I believe for what I paid for the small shell any remediation would cost as much as a new pool install. The deck (my avatar) was costly and would have to be all torn up, pool rest properly and some things I've read it's almost as costly as a full install So if she will hang on she will stay.
As for the chemicals they have been all over since following store suggestions. After showing them the white haze last winter I was told to raise the phosphates with scale tech and scrub all winter long, this did nothing and I recently cleared the phosphates and I'm trying to get my CL in order. They had my CL between 2-4 which sunpools says 1 and my hardness at the 100-150 range and I realized sun pools wants it at 400. After shocking my CL has not dropped under 5 even with the salt generator off and pump running for a week. I was told the hardness being over 150 could damage the shell but I've also read under that range and your acidic. I'll search and or start a thread asking for advice soon enough but that's the rundown of my not trouble free pool experience.
Oh and I've already had to replace my pump, filter valve, replumb everything CORRECTLY and just recently I had to replace my saltron power supply. Nothing under warranty and no installer to call about it... My lawyer told me it would cost more to pursue it and pointless if he doesnt pay. Considering he already has fraud charges and a bunch of BBB complaints in my area Im probably in a long line of people with their hand out. Luckily that was the easy less expensive part to fix so far...lolol

I've spent a couple of days searching through many old discussions of pool heaters, and understand a lot of the ins and outs of heat pump efficiency versus quicker responsive heat when using a natural gas heater, but feel I could use a little more guidance before making a decision on the way to go here.

I live in Huntsville, Alabama, and while all of MY large trees were cut down many years ago, my pool suffers from the shade of my neighbors trees. Sun doesn't start hitting the pool from the east until 9:30am or so in summer, hits the entire pool by mid day, but by 3pm, large trees to the west are casting their shade, and by 4pm at the latest, there is no longer any sun on the pool. The pool is an 18x36 in-ground pool, about 27,000 gallons (8 feet at deep end + 8 foot wide steps at shallow end), with a diving board. I run salt water.

I bought a solar cover last summer, but have no reel at the moment. It was my job to put it on and off the pool last summer if I knew the kids or grandkids were coming over to swim. And invariably, it would have collected rain water or pollen pods or leaves that dumped into the water, requiring me to then spend time cleaning the pool. My first priority this summer is a solar cover reel of some sort, but it is complicated by the 8 foot diving board at the deep end. The "low" solar reels that will fit under a diving board are insanely priced. And to be honest, last summer, even though we were in a drought, we had a lot of cool nights, and even with the cover, the pool very rarely reached what I consider a swimmable temperature in the mid 80's. Most of the time the pool was in the 78-80 range.

My wife has terminal cancer, and I want this summer and hopefully next summer to be a great time of family get togethers, and in light of that, have told my wife that I am putting some form of pool heater in, so that we can enjoy more time with our adult children and grandkids while we (she) can. Having water at around 85F would go a long way to making folks want to hang out in the pool in the evening or afternoon.

So here is where I am. I have natural gas at the end of the house that the pool equipment is located at, but unfortunately, after talking to my utility company yesterday, my meter and the pipes cap me to pool heaters under 300K BTU's. Looking at what is out there and compatible with a salt water pool, the best I can do would be a 250K BTU Hayward pool heater. Unless I pay $400-500 to the utility company for a new meter. Plus all the other cost to replace the pipe from the meter to the rest of the house with larger pipe than the 1 1/4" that is currently leaving the meter to run to the house. It runs about 20 feet, then decreases to 3/4" iron pipe, with one branch diving into the crawlspace towards the kitchen and fireplace, while the other goes directly to an outside "gas pack" on the HVAC unit.

So, I started looking at heat pumps, and the issue there is a 140K heat pump of course costs almost $2000 more than a 250K BTU gas heater, AND right now, I have a 100A run to that end of the house with a sub panel on the end of the house for the HVAC, which has a 50A breaker, and then there is a 30A breaker to run the pool pump and other items. There is not 50-60A to spare for a heat pump unless I run another complete circuit, which involves going UP a garage wall into the attic, then DOWN an interior wall into the crawlspace, and then through the brick at the end of the house. A lot more work than the gas change probably, but doable.

No matter what I do, I will be digging trenches and relocating my pump and filter to be against the end of the house where the HVAC, gas and electrical are located. Right now they are kinda out in the yard, and are an eye sore. I've wanted to move them for years, but didn't have anything driving it before now.

But back to the heater. Without doing anything about the gas meter, I can support a 250K BTU gas heater, with just getting my HVAC guy or a plumber a couple hundred to run about 10 to 15 feet of gas pipe to it from the existing pipes that run across that end of the house from the meter in the front yard.

The question really comes down to COST of running gas versus a heat pump, if I want to have a pool be 85F rather than 78F for random afternoons that grandkids drop by, or for Saturday/Sunday afternoon get togethers with the entire family. My utility rates are:

Natural gas @ $11.07 per 1000 cubic feet, which equates to pretty much $1.107 per therm.
Electricity @ $0.11735 per kWh.

I would get a solar reel, and do my best to keep it covered at night and when not in use, but looking at heating times, we are talking 6 hours with the 250K BTU unit for an increase of 5F (80->85 degrees). With 140K BTU, you are talking about around 8 hours to make that same 5F increase.

Best I can tell, if I am doing my math right, if the pool is at "natural" temperatures, which last summer ran 78-80 with the solar cover a lot, it would cost me $5.98 and 8 hours with a heat pump go get it to the temp I want. With the gas heater (250K unit), it would take 4 hours, but cost me $14.34 in gas. If I understand the math right.

The question really is whether someone in the same vicinity of the south-eastern US can comment on their experience with a gas heater versus heat pump. I am hesitant to go with gas if it is going to add hundreds of dollars a month to our utility bill. I don't want to spend $14+ every day we want to swim. If that was just 3 times per week, it would be adding up to a lot per month. But I don't know what it would look like to use a heat pump and let it get to 85F and then just STAY AT THAT TEMP all the time, keeping the solar cover on at night and all non-use days. Would that be cheaper in the long run, even with the expense of the wiring?

Does anyone have any thoughts or guidance for me here? My wife is leaving this entire decision to heat the pool in my hands, as she knows I want to do it so we have some good family times together this year.

Thanks so much!

Jim

Has anyone used EcoFinish, Rebound, epoxy, or other pool step refinishing material/process and have experience with the material
longevity?

Hey all, my sun shelf has a round return in the floor that causes a whirlpool on the surface that traps debris and pollen. Was thinking that if I could make the return flow asymmetrical it might disrupt the trap and let this stuff make it to the skimmer. Any ideas how or cautions against?

As an aside, my dog is terrified of The Great Sun Shelf Pollen Patch and growls and barks at if warily as she walks by it.

And a Happy New Year to all.

We have been in Stuart, FL for a year now and have finally decided on a Spa with a pool. Was going to go Owner Build but I don't think I have it in me, physically so, after meeting with about 10-12 different PBs and getting 7-8 quotes, this is what we landed on. I found that if you deviate from the norm, some PBs don't want to work with you or they price it so high the opposite is true.

The quote needs some explanations. "Lucy, you got some 'splaning..." I digress.

The 7'x7' (inside dims) Spa will have 20 Jets. I have a plan so fear not, haha. If I put 12@10GPM Jets on a loop (combination of 3-jet manifolds and single jets, for the back) and then put 8@15GPM single Jets (for calves and feet) on a different loop (both each totalling 120 GPM, which should be totally doable), AND if at the Equip Pad, the loops are connected to a 3-way valve so they can run from the same pump and NOT be active at the same time, so either the back jets are on OR the leg jets are on both never both at the same time. what are the chances that would that work?

Spa will be heated via main pool pump/filter/SWG with 2 returns on a separate loop.

AirPort is a deck mounted Air intake and "Muffler", that can support up to 12 jets without a blower. I may run PVC from them back to the Pad and cap off both ends just in case these don't work and we need to put in a blower, at least I won't have to dig up the all the Decking.

Water depths will be measured from the TOP of the tile to the top of the main drain. So, when I asked him to change to middle of Skimmer, he said rather than change the Contract, he would increase all the depths by 3" go figure?

I don't have any plumbing diagrams yet but in theory, can this Spa setup work with the Jandy 2.7HP VS Pump and 3" PVC both on Suction and Return sides? Pad will be about 35-40 feet from Spa?

thanks
Randy

Why do I see vapor rising from my solar heated pool at night/ in the morning when the relative humidity is 100% ?

Hey guys,

I just bought a house in Evans City Pa.
It came with a very neglegted fiberglass inground pool im hoping to save, so I have a feeling I will be spending some time here.
I just made a post about it and Im hoping for the best.

Just like most problem posts start, I bought a house with an inground fiberglass pool at a Sheriff sale. Obviously, this thing has been neglected for some time but Im looking for advice as I cant get ahold of previous owners.

First, what I know. It’s fiberglass, no cracks can be seen above the water. The water level stays about where it is, it rises when it rains then leaks down to where it is now. I found a gasket kit for the pool light in a fedex package inside, so I’m hoping the light is leaking and drained down far enough to not freeze the pipes.

It seems like they diverted the filter to a makeshift koi pond, which overflowed and now the pool is the koi pond. I plan on removing that.

I know pumps and filter are shot and probably undersized, but obviously don’t want to buy those if the shell itself is a lost cause.

My plan is to clean out all the Crud in the pool first, but I have read enough on here to know draining a fiberglass pool rarely ends well. There is a 4” SDR35 pipe beside the skimmer (Pictured) that I have no clue what its for, Im assuming something with the ground water but I have no clue what to do with it. After its cleaned out Ill fill and find leaks, repair, repeat. Then if all goes well I plan on refinishing and gel-coating.

I have an excavator/dump and would much prefer fixing these leaks than septic systems so chasing frozen/broken lines isn’t an issue.

Is this salvageable? What do I need to know before I waste days getting scum out of this pool? How do I drain to eventually gel-coat safely? And millions of other questions, HELP!

First, know that I have cleaned my pool manually the last ~10 years (Kreepy before that).
Thought I'd give my quick thoughts on the Seauto Crab cordless pool cleaner. Overall for the price I paid it gets a 2 thumbs up. It arrived partially charged. Once charged, it cleaned for 2 hours and 10 minutes. The unit returned to its original spot once cleaning ended. Cleaning the unit was simple and easy. Instruction book was clear. I won't be using the app that only lets you switch between modes: 'all-cover', 'wall-only', and 'floor-only'. 'all-cover' mode is fine with me. Many users reported an app forced update had bricked their cleaner. The manual does state maximum chlorine of 4 ppm. Seems odd. Mine was at 5 this morning, so we shall see. The pool was cleaned as well as a kreepy would have done it. Not perfect, but presentable. The current price on Amazon is $919.99, I bought on Lightning Deal for $399.99. I wouldn't pay $1k for any pool cleaner. End of cleaning cycle, it moved ~5 feet to its starting position before stopping and the status light turning to red. I will post a longer cleaning video tomorrow. If you should have question, please ask.
missed debris:

We have a 23 (lol) year old 200btu gas heater. She still works! I did replace pressure switch last year but that was it.

We switched the pool to SWG 2 years ago. Last year at closing I found chunks of rust in the salt cell which is past the heater. I stuck an inspection camera into the heater to find the elements are thoroughly caked in rust.
I suppose this happened as a consequence of the salt, breakdown of protective coating over time, etc.

Anyways, it has to be changed now and that's not a cheap proposition (5-6k canadian)
our current swimming patterns are infrequent - 2-3 times per week, and I've turned the heater on a few hours in advance of swimming in the past
We don't have a solar cover but I am going to buy one this year

questions:
- we live in Toronto, Canada, and the pool gets decent afternoon sun from about noon onwards. Would you opt for a heat pump or another gas heater (I have heard the gas heaters are less reliable these days, and I do expect the cost of gas to keep going up). for either option, do you have a preferred brand?
- is it a disaster if i keep the pump running through this heater until the new one arrives? would there be detrimental effects of the rust being circulated through the pool water? should I bypass the heater?

Thanks in advance!

Does anyone have experience with this device? I'm looking for a simple way to set up and control pump run times and it seems as though this might fit the bill? Is it fairly easy to install? I don't have a heater, spa, waterfall, etc; I just want something to set a run schedule and control it remotely if I need to. The pump is a Jandy variable speed.

Thanks

I’m moving into my new home May 1st.

The home comes with a salt water pool. I’m a total newbie.

We’re in Southwestern Ontario, Canada, and would like to open the pool asap after moving in. I do plan on hiring someone to do the opening.

Should I pay extra to have them put in unstabalized chlorine? It’s something they offer.

I want to know what I should have on hand to prepare myself. I don’t know if the home even has a pool vacuum they’ll leave for me lol

A few years before the pandemic, I had a gunnite pool built with SWG, CO2, Concrete Deck and Auto-Cover safety cover which is hidden away similar to this:
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/8d/3a/c8/8d3ac8857b6895ecf78cb7bdf6744546.jpg

The pool had a 5 year warranty. Nearly 4 years into ownership, my tiles started coming off. I have two rows of 3"x3" porcelain tiles. I sent my PB an email and they ignored me. I didn't think much of it then because a few tiles was not a big deal. Today about 30 - 40% of the top row is off or gonna come off soon. The bottom row is all fine - none have fallen off.

Back to my issue: The top row of tiles abuts the aluminum auto-cover rail with grout between them. Above the aluminum rail is the 4" concrete deck. I am 99% sure the aluminum auto-cover rail was screwed to the top of the concrete beam with no flexible material between them. Is this normal installation procedures for really cold-weather installations?

I always have kept my pool balanced. I always keep the water level well below the tiles during the winter. This was not a budge pool my friends!!!! The auto-cover was $10 alone! I follow ALL of the PB rules and all of the rules here. I feel that because the bottom row of tiles are totally fine that any doubts of my water chemistry and possibility of winter ice is out-the-door. They would be falling off too.

I've gotten three estimates including my PB. All over $10k. They all said they would tear out all old tiles, prep and re-tile with brand new tiles, and put silicone between the top tile and aluminum rail above it. I'm skeptical. Silicone, really? I asked if this was going to occur again and they all said 'I hope not'. I feel much more confident now. I asked them all if it was installed correctly and none of them would give me a straight answer.

Was this installed correctly? How should I handle my warranty? I emailed them before it expired with pictures. Only now, they are happy to talk to me about fixing it. I don't know how to approach them politely and with intent that they are responsible for this? Are they responsible?

Looking for suggestions on what would be best to “fill” or repair this area in my decking. I can’t quite tell but looks to be about 6in deep and may track slightly under one of the edges.

Our pool has a spa attached (shared equipment) which we use in the shoulder months. We close our pool late and open early when water temps are around 32-40.

We don’t heat the pool in the shoulder months but are able to isolate the spa and heat it (around 100).

For example - opened the pool last week (water 41) and we’ll use the spa on weekends (cover it and keep water), then mix the water back in the pool for the week.

If using the SWG for the tub (when heated) how can I figure out what percentage to run it at and how long to run it when not using (but not circulating it back into pool)?

I’m trying to figure out, where is the problem.
I can feel strong suction on the intake, weaker suction in the sweeper (Vingly). Pressure on meter shows 15 or so. No leaks. I tried another Vingly, one that works in another pool (my son’s), still same. Tried adjustments, nothing. The sweeper don’t move.
Filters are clean.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thank you!

Is there a routine on how often the cell should be cleaned or are there visible indicators to check? Or other indicators? I have not cleaned or looked at it since it was installed last June (have had no issues so never crossed my mind to look into it).

Hi all,

Was referred here by a friend, what an amazing community. My pool (20339 gallons) had a few super-unreliable pool guys, the pool turned green, and I decided to maintain it myself. The pool was somewhat neglected for a few months, and while I was cleaning debris out of it, I didn't bother with the chemistry at all (knowing it's wrong).

After reading pool school last week, I fixed my metrics and started SLAM:
1. Brought pH down with Muriatic Acid to ~7.5 (was 8.4 or higher prior)
2. Brought CYA up to 40 (was 0 prior)
3. Brought FC at 16 ("SLAM" level in PoolMath) with liquid chlorine only
4. Replaced my cartridge filters (old ones were not replaced in 3 years, completely fallen apart) and noted the new clean PSI

I've been keeping FC at 16 for 5 days now. Brushing daily. Running my pool robot. I don't have a vaccum.

The water looks A LOT better, but I still have some stains / areas that look green - mostly in the center of the pool.
Brushing the walls/floor of the pool does occassionally bring up a green cloud, so I suppose I'm not done.
But curious how I'm doing so far, and any tips on where to take it from here?

Hello,

My eyes are red from reading so much about pool cleaners. I have used the pressure side cleaner that came with my pool since new and it is on its last leg.

I have a 10,000 gallon pool with a ledge around three sides two steps on the fourth side and then a sun ledge. I have a pool enclosure so there is not much debris in the pool.

I would like to have a cleaner that scrubs the walls and waterline as well as the bottom. I would prefer one that you can leave in the pool for a week at a time. I have the Jandy/AquaLink system and being able to connect to that would be a plus but not necessary.

Any suggestions?

I have a fiberglass jacuzzi which is heated with a gas heater. Where I live, we have months with 20+ days of rain.

My water hardness level is essentially non existent. How important is it to get it up, given that’s it’s a fiberglass jacuzzi and gas heater?

If an increase is needed, where do you typically buy the calcium? I’ve never seen it at the local pool/hottub stores here (Medellin Colombia)

Thanks!

Last time I cleaned the cell (3 months ago) bubbles stopped at about 15 minutes. If been getting check cell light for 6 months, so decided to return it for warranty. So they said return it cleaned, but now it's been bubbling for 30 minutes and still going. I'm using 9% vinegar. They said use 4:1 acid, which this would be about equal to (too strong IMO). Normal? I've already bought a new cell which is working fine, hopefully get a good discount on a second one.